ROUND THE YEAR 
IN THE GARDEN 






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H.H.THOMAS 



Book Z^y-J 



ROUND THE YEAR IN THE GARDEN 



ROUND THE YEAR 
IN THE GARDEN 

A Descriptive Guide to the Flowers of the 

Four Seasons, and to the Work of 

each Month in the Flower, 

Fruit, and Kitchen 

Garden 

HfH THOMAS 

Author of The Ideal Garden," The Garden at Home," etc 



Beautifully Illustrated with Twelve direct 
Colour Photographs by H. ESSENHIGH 
CORKE, and Sixty-four Half-tone Plates 



NEW YORK 
FUNK AND WAGNALLS COMPANY 



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First published 1016 



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PREFACE 



Round the Year in the Garden is an inexhaustible 
theme, to which I make no claim to have done full 
justice. Bach month deserves a volume, the year a 
shelf of books, A perennial source of delight is 
found in vratching the seasons round in a garden. 
One is taught to appreciate the joys of the present, 
to forget the disappointments of the past, and, with 
enthusiasm, to anticipate the promise of the future. 
Failures will be experienced, even the shadow of 
dismay may cloud the horizon, but the interest of the 
garden is so varied, so sustained, that the perplexities 
of one moment will be eclipsed by the pleasures of 
the next. Who feels bored in a garden must be a 
very dull person indeed — or a fair weather gardener, 
and for him there is no hope. It is not by planting 
in spring and gathering flowers in summer that the 
heart of the garden is won ; rather is this aim 
achieved by an acquaintance which has deepened to 
friendship, and through friendship ripened to love. 

Round the Year in the Garden makes no 
pretence to be a complete "calendar of operations," 
though it is concerned in bringing to notice some 
of the flowers, fruits, and vegetables of the seasons, 
and in indicating the chief garden work to be done 



Preface 

each month. In preparing the volume, an endeavour 
has been made to include information that is 
known to be of use and interest to amateur 
gardeners. It has proved impossible to describe 
in detail the hundred and one minor tasks which 
arise as the gardening seasons pass, yet the con- 
solation remains that reference to much that is 
obvious and of comparatively little value has been 
avoided. 

Some of the notes contained in the following 
pages have appeared in the Morning Post during 
the last year or two, and my acknowledgments 
are due to the Editor, Mr. H. A. Gwynne, for per- 
mission to make use of them here. 

H. H. T. 



VI 



CONTENTS 



PAQB 

OCTOBER— LOOKING FORWARD ... 1 

NOVEMBER — AUTUMN WORK FOR SUMMER 

FLOWERS 47 

DECEMBER— MAKING PLANS .... 90 

JANUARY— THE PASSING OF WINTER . . 112 

FEBRUARY— DAWNING SPRING . . .130 

MARCH— SOWING AND PLANTING . . .150 

APRIL— MAKING READY FOR SUMMER . . 188 

MAY— LILAC TIME 206 

JUNE— FLOWERS AND FRAGRANCE ... 223 

JULY-HIGH SUMMER 237 

AUGUST— THE GARDENERS HOLIDAY . . 252 

SEPTEMBER— WEANING AND WAKING FLOWERS 259 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 

COLOURED PLATES 
Borders of Fairy or Dwarf Polyantha Roses Frontispiece 

FACINQ PAGE 

In the Garden at Woodside, Chenies .... 12 

Rock and Herbaceous Border at The Glebe, Seven- 
oaks 26 

In the Flower Garden at Chevening Park — Annual 

Phlox in the foreground 36 

A Garden of Roses and other Flowering Shrubs . 48 

An Old- World Border at the Chantry House, Seven- 
oaks 66 

High Summer in the Garden 80 

Snapdragons and Climbing Roses 114 

In a Kentish Rose Garden 122 

Rock and Pool Garden at Shoreham Cottage . , 134 

Weeping Standard Roses 190 

Rose Arches and Borders of Hardy Flowers . . 214 



BLACK AND WHITE PLATES 

Springtime in a Little Formal Garden 

Little Formal Garden planted with Snapdragons 

Decorative Onion (Allium ursinum) 

The striking Allium karataviense 

Spanish Irises in a Paved Garden 

Charming Late Summer Flowers — Out-of door 
Chrysanthemums 



PACING PACK 

6 
6 
7 
7 
14 



15 



List of Illustrations 

FACING PAOK 

Flower Boi^der, Shrubbery and Rock Garden . . 18 

Flower-Fringed Path in the Rockery .... 18 
A Beautiful Hardy Flower of May (Camassia 

Leichtlini) 19 

Rose Mrs. F. W. Vanderbilt 30 

Among the Roses and Rockery Flowers in June . 31 

The Satin Flower (Sisyrinchium striatum) . . 38 

Lily of the Valley Grown in Fibre .... 39 

Snakeroot (Cimicifuga racemosa) 44 

Rock and Shrubbery Border 45 

Shasta Daisy (Chrysanthemum raaximum). . . 52 

Summer Starwort (Erigeron Quakeress) ... 52 

Dog's-tooth Violet (Erythronium californicum) . 53 

A Handsome Snowdrop (Galanthus Elwesii) . . 53 

Pear Louise Bonne of Jersey 60 

Pear Beurre Diel 60 

Autvimn Fruiting Raspberries 61 

A Typical Bloom of Japanese Chrysanthemum . 70 

The Italian Garden at Drummond Castle . . . 71 

Mountain Clematis (montana) on a Cottage in Surrey 76 

Alpine Anemone (Anemone alpina) . ... 77 

Himalayan Poppy (Meconopsis integrifolia) . . 77 

A Prostrate Broom (Cytisus Kewensis) ... 84 

In the Garden at Drummond Castle .... 84 

Bush of Old Double Pink Paeouy 85 

Tea Rose Lady Roberts 92 

Dwarf Phlox (Stellaria lilacina) in the Rock Garden 92 

Two Rock Garden Flowers — Carpathian Bellflower 

and Mexican Daisy 93 

Climbing Roses Thalia, Rene Andre, and Alberic 

Barbier 96 

A Winter-flowering Shrub (Garrya elliptica) . . 97 



List of Illustrations 

FACINQ PAGE 

Clematis Nellie Moser 100 

A Charming Pink Stonecrop (Sedum pilosum) . . 101 

Crocus Imperati albidus— A Showy Spring Flower . 101 

Smothered in Purple Blossom— Clematis Jackmani 108 

Golden - rayed Lily (Lilium auratum) Grown in 

Flowerpot 109 

An Alpine Buttercxip (Ranunculus montanus) . . 118 

The Mountain Avens (Dryas octopetala) . . . 119 

The Remarkable Cow Parsnip, or Heracleum . . 128 

A Rock Garden Plant, Alyssum spinosum . . 129 

Malmaison Carnations in a Yorkshire Garden . . 132 

Well-fruited Tomatoes in Pots ..... 133 
The Opal Variety of the Italian Alkanet (Anchusa 

italica) 138 

A Charming Rock Primrose (Primula pubescens 

alba) 139 

The Creeping Sandwort (Arenaria balearica) . . 139 

An Edging of Mossy Saxifrage and Snow in Summer 

(Cerastium) 144 

A Bush of Japanese Maple in an Irish Garden . 144 

Summer Hovise, Paved Path, Rock and Water 

Garden 145 

Canterbury Bells, Spanish Irises and Tufted Pansies 154 

Grape Alicante, a good Black Variety for Amateurs 155 

Rose Marquise de Sinety, Shades of Red and Yellow 155 

A Row of Modern Sweet Peas 160 

Rose La France Bordered by Pale Blue Viola . . 161 

Tea and Hybrid Tea Roses ...... 170 

Paved Path and Rose Pergola leading from House 

to Garden 171 

An Arch of Rose Claire Jacquier 174 

A Caucasian Primrose for the Rock Garden (Primula 

Juliae) 175 

xi 



List of Illustrations 

KACING PACK 

Home and Garden 182 

A Rock Border Planted with Satin Flower, 

Kniphofia, etc 183 

A Little Garden Pool made Watertight with Cement 186 

Woodland and Water— Japanese Iris in the Fore- 
ground 186 

A Sunk Garden of Summer Flo^vers .... 187 

A Group of Hardy Azaleas 202 

Pink Rhododendron and Bluebells .... 202 

Mexican Orange Blossom (Choisya ternata) . . 203 

The Persian Lilac (Syringa persica) .... 208 

The Mock Orange (Philadelphus coronarius) . . 209 

Potato Sensation 212 

A Satisfactory Bed of Onions 213 

A -Pretty Yarrow for the Rock Garden (Achillea 

argentea) 220 

Bellflower (Campanula muralis) in dry wall . . 221 

A Terrace Rockery 234 

A Rockery Formed by Arranging Large Boulders 

in Irregular Groups . . . . . . . 234 

North American Trumpet Plower^Bignonia radicans) 235 

Decorative Chrysanthemum Belle Mauve . . . 244 

New Zealand Daisy Bush 245 

The Dutchman's Pipe (Aristolochia Sipho) . . 245 



Round the Year in the Garden 



OCTOBER 

Looking Forward 

WHO shall say when the year begins ? For each 
and every one of us at different times; for someone 
it is always beginning. For myself, the year dawns 
when the flowers are fading, and the leaves change 
colour ; when long nights succeed short days and sun- 
shine is something to hope for ; when the ground is 
sodden and the wind chants mournfully through the 
leafless trees, and fog and gloom settle upon the land. 
A mirthless picture indeed, yet — 

" Can Fancy's fairy hands no veil create 
To hide the sad realities of Fate?" 

Verily, for the dawn of the garden year flushes the 
dim future with roseate hue, warming to fresh life the 
brown buds and bare twigs, and peopling with a thousand 
flowers the beds and borders now void of visible life. 
To every gardener who loves the earth and the flowers 
it yields, the passing of one year is but the advent 
of the next; thus is he able to dream such dreams 
and build such hopes as will ensure a garden of 
delight. 

Gardening has its depressing moments, and it is as 
well to avoid them. While the flowers are sleeping let 
us draw chairs to the fire, warm our slippered feet, and 
pile up the catalogues that come by every post ; let us 

B I 



Round the Year in the Garden 

turn their pictured pages that portray the successes 
and ignore the failures, that show the results and make 
no mention of the labour. Thus shall we anticipate joy- 
fully, look forward hopefully, and heigho 1 the garden 
is aglow with blossom — gorgeous Tulips here, there 
stately Hyacinths, elsewhere colonies of Squills and 
Fritillaries, and everywhere patches of white Snowdrops, 
blue and yellow Crocuses, and a host of others which 
the mind's eye readily conjures up. Even if some of 
the dreams prove false, the castles, seeming firm, prove 
but of air, we shall have laid the foundation of success 
which depends upon intelligent and enthusiastic antici- 
pation. 

Autumn shall be the dawn of our garden year. Let 
us dream of the good things the earth has in store, but 
let us not be laggard in enticement; it is certain that 
with the fullness of day, dreams will vanish— let it not 
be said that our labour has been in vain. 

It is a far cry from October to April, and only ex- 
perience can teach the wisdom of long preparation in 
advance ; it is easier to plant bulbs at Christmas, when the 
season of their blossoming looms in sight, than in October, 
when the consummation of their beauty seems such a 
long way off. If words of mine fail to impress the reader 
with the value of timely preparation, let me recoi'd that 
in " The Garden that I Love," Veronica found that 
" Doing things in good time is the secret of successful 
gardening," and even Veronica's poet could find no words 
to gainsay its truth. If wise, we shall acknowledge 
autumn to be the chief season for planting. Well might 
we cry " The flowers are dead, Long live the flowers ! " 
and forthwith prepare to crown queen the dawning 
year. 

Among the Hardy Flowers 

Strange a^^d Familiar Bulbs. — So far as hardy kinds 
are concerned, it seems to be true that the smaller the 



October — Looking Forward 

bulb the earlier you must plant it for, as a rule, the little 
ones are the first to bloom. September is the month 
in which to put in the Snowdrops, Crocuses, Squills, Grape 
Hyacinths, Fritillaries, and others ; if they are still within 
their brown paper bags do not delay further but, wet 
or fine, put them in the ground. There are plenty of 
other kinds which may now worthily occupy our at- 
tention. 

It is often urged against the professional gardener 
that he is ultra-conservative in his methods, but it is 
equally true of the amateur, so far as his selections are 
concerned, and especially with reference to bulbs. There 
is nothing to be said against the practice of filling one 
bed with Emperor, another with Empress Daffodils, and 
so on, except that it is very ordinary gardening and to 
be corapared with planting the same beds in summer with 
Geranium and Calceolaria which, however greatly they 
may add to the gaiety of the garden, are painfully 
monotonous. Do not, I beg of you, continue to order 
just those ordinary kinds of bulbs which are to be seen 
in everyone else's garden ; try others which may be but 
names to you. You may experience a few disappoint- 
ments, but they will be as nothing in comparison with 
the delight that follows upon the discovery of some fresh 
treasure. 

It must be confessed that some bulb catalogues are 
very ordinary, and one may search through them in vain 
for anything more thrilling than the usual Tulips, 
Hyacinths, Daffodils, and others equally common. But 
there are catalogues that describe black and green and 
fragrant Tulips ; red Squills ; Wood Anemones in white, 
yellow, blue and rose; remarkable Alliums (the Onion 
is an Allium) ; exquisite winter Crocuses ; hardy Cycla- 
mens ; golden Fritillaries ; giant Snowdrops ; Irises that 
blossom in winter ; white, blue and rose Grape Hyacinths ; 
and Angel's Tears, Hoop Petticoat and Cyclamen-flowered 
Daffodils. With such flower wealth at command, — why 

3 



Round the Year in the Garden 

continue to restrict your choice to those few kinds that 
are ubiquitous? 

Half the joy of gardening lies in trying fresh flowers ; 
why plant a garden at all, if only to use such plants as 
are grown to perfection in public parks and gardens? 
The garden at home should be different ; it should possess 
individuality, even in its selection of bulbs. Having 
obtained the right catalogue, do not merely turn its pages 
casually with an admiring glance at its fine illustrations, 
but delve into the store of good things ; order them 
and plant them and watch with a gardener's joy the 
coming to life of something you have never seen before. 
Then shall your garden have an interest perennial and 
ever new. Just a few words concerning planting, then 
together let us search a catalogue that I will choose. 

Concerning planting.— Everyone knows that ordinary 
herbaceous plants grow better in ground that has been 
deeply dug and manured than in that which has been 
merely forked over ; that is a truism. Yet lots of people 
believe that bulbs will grow anywhere. So they will, after 
a fashion ; even if you plant Hyacinths (as I have seen 
done) so that only half the bulb is beneath the soil they 
will blossom, because, fortunately for the happy-go-lucky 
gardener. Hyacinths are more or less independent of soil 
and will flower if given only water in which to grow. 
But what a travesty of gardening such planting is ! 
There is no need to dig a trench to grow bulbs to per- 
fection, but the soil must be stirred to a reasonable 
depth, say 18 inches, which does not necessitate laborious 
digging. Given this, and as much sand as you can 
afford (all bulbs like plenty of sand), together vdth a 
fair sprinkling of bonemeal and wood ashes some 12 
inches below the surface, and there remains but to plant 
the bulbs at the proper depth, and watch and wait for 
the first days of spring. 

How deep should bulbs be planted? Some of the 
specialists put 6 inches of soil over their May-flowering 

4 



October — Looking Forward 

Tulips and vow that they are not too deep. Those of 
us who grow flowers in a more commonplace way say 
that you need only cover a bulb with rather more than 
twice its own depth of soil. I believe that flower 
connoisseurs are responsible for much of the doubt and 
perplexity which exist among amateurs. They " take 
up" a flower, and not satisfied with ordinary results, 
they delve and dig and coddle and fuss to such a frightful 
extent, that he who has grown similar flowers since he 
was a boy rubs his eyes and wonders what topsy-turvy- 
dom is this ! 

Ornamental Onions. — Let us now look through such 
a catalogue as I have mentioned, one in which figure 
strange and familiar bulbs, and fashion from its bewil- 
dering list a selection to suit the amateur who has a soul 
above that of the jobbing gardener. First on the list is 
Allium, which, in popular language, one may call orna- 
mental Onion ; all of them thrive in ordinary soil. 
The two commonest are Moly, which is yellow, and 
Neapolitanum, white. A striking kind with broad, 
oblong leaves and large round heads of rosy purple 
blossom, is karataviense ; flavum with drooping heads 
of yellow blossom, and ursinum, having white flowers, are 
others to make a note of. All except karataviense are 
suitable for naturalising in grassy corners and other odd 
places. You have only to plant them from 2 to 4 inches 
deep, according to the size of the bulb, and leave them 
alone. 

Those who have space on a warm border should plant 
the corms or roots of the South African Sword Lily 
(Antholyza paniculata), a plant with handsome leaves 
resembling those of Gladiolus, and bearing, in summer, 
spikes of crimson blossom. This is not to be recom- 
mended for indiscriminate planting, but for those who 
like to possess uncommon flowers of real worth. The 
border must be well drained, and the compost should 
be of loam or turfy soil, with which leaf soil and sand 

5 



Round the Year in the Garden 

are mixed. If the reader lives in a cold district, lie 
should plant in spring and lift the roots in autumn, 
in the same way as those of Gladiolus. 

Flowers for Odd Corners. — What is it that mars 
the charm of gardens so frequently ? It is, I think, those 
bare, odd corners which are a kind of " no flower's land." 
They are dismissed with a shrug of the shoulders and the 
exclamation that " Nothing will grow there." But there 
are things that Avill grow there. Take for example the 
Arums or Dragon Flowers. One cannot pretend that 
they are pretty ; some might regard them as unpre- 
possessing ; even then they must in justice ask " Are 
they less attractive than the soil and weeds they are 
destined to replace ? " If planted in a moist and shady 
spot, they will give of their best, and one ought to be 
correspondingly grateful. Probably the best of all is 
Arum Dracunculus, 2 feet or rather more high, which 
bears a greenish spathe in July. Then there is the 
common Cuckoo Pint or Wake Robin of the hedgerows, 
(Arum maculatum), of which the spotted leaves are not 
unpleasing, though its chief glory is in autumn when 
the orange - coloured fruits glow brilliantly enough to 
bring a splash of colour to the darkest corner. If neither 
of these appeals I have still one more to bring to the 
gardener's notice, namely. Arum italicum, which has a 
pale, yellowish spathe in spring, and a second period 
of beauty in autumn, when the bright red fruits are 
held aloft on naked stem. There are even others, but 
our tour of the garden, if it is to be fairly comprehen- 
sive, must not be too detailed. It may be as well to 
explain the significance of a spathe. It is easily made 
clear by reference to the Arum Lily, which everyone 
knows ; the white part of the Arum Lily is the spathe 
and the yellow central portion is the spadix. The flowers 
cluster upon the spadix and are insignificant. 

Mariposa Lilies. — In strong contrast to the Arums 
are the Mariposa Lilies. If one confesses the Arums 

6 




SPRINGTIME IN A LITTLE FORMAL GARDEN 



•^"S^'T"^^^^'^ • 




%- 







UTTLE FORMAL GARDEN PLANTI 



-I'DRAGONS 



DECORATIVE ONION (ALLIUM URSINUM) 
(White) 







THE STRIKING ALLIUM KARATAVIENSE 
(Rose coloured) 



October — Looking Forward 

to be " dull, but worthy," one may be excused for using 
laudatory adjectives in writing of the Calochortus, 
Mariposa Lily or Star Tulip. One ought really to say 
that the Star Tulips are botanically distinct from the 
Mariposa Lilies, and w^ere at one time included in a 
different genus, but as this is not a botanical treatise, 
they may well be grouped together, for they need similar 
treatment. They bear cup-shaped flowers in a variety 
of brilliant colours, and it is disappointing to record 
that one must provide them with rather special 
conditions. A warm, sunny border is essential ; the next 
thing is to ensure perfect drainage, which is most readily 
accomplished if the soil is heavy by making a bed above 
the ground level. The compost they like best consists 
of peat and leaf soil, with plenty of silver sand inter- 
mixed ; or one may dispense with the peat and use a 
little light loam instead. The chief point is to prepare 
a porous mixture. October is an excellent month in 
which to plant ; the bulbs are placed 2 or 3 inches deep 
and about 4 inches apart. Even then one has not done 
all that is required, for they must be protected from 
rains during winter by means of a frame placed over 
them, there to remain until growth starts in spring. 
At that season air is admitted, gradually at first, and 
finally the frame is removed. The flowers are in full 
beauty in early summer ; when they are over and the 
stems begin to wither, one has to see that the " ripening " 
of the plants is complete, and this can be ensured only 
by keeping them dry. Thus, if necessary, as it is in 
a rainy season, the frame must be replaced, although 
air ought to be admitted freely, and in such a way 
that the soil remains dry. There are many sorts of 
Calochortus, but, to begin with, the amateur should 
obtain a few of the numerous varieties of Calochortus 
venustus. The Eldorado strain itself contains some 
gorgeous flowers ; citrinus is yellow with reddish 
markings ; roseus is rose coloured ; Vesta is white with 

7 



Round the Year in the Garden 

various markings, while oculatus is purplish rose marked 
with black and yellow. 

The Blue Camassia. — How rarely outside botanic 
gardens does one see the beautiful Camassia or Quamash 
from North America, yet this is among the finest of early 
summer bulbs. One of the illustrations gives a good idea 
of Camassia Leichtlini, which grows about 3 feet high and 
bears numerous starry cream-coloured flowers. Others 
are esculenta, blue, and Cusickii, lavender blue. One has 
only to plant the bulbs about 5 inches deep in ordinary 
well tilled soil in October, either in a sunny or partially 
shaded spot ; they may be left undisturbed for years. It 
is scarcely advisable to put them in the flower border, 
because their large leaves are rather untidy, and it is not 
an easy matter to hide them. 

Lily of the Valley is so familiar and so widely planted 
that one would think there was nothing more to be said 
about it. But I have an interesting tale to tell. I re- 
member on one occasion advising a reader of some notes 
of mine to take up and replant some crowded Lilies of 
the Valley, of which the flower spikes decreased in length 
and the flower bells in size each year. I was immediately 
taken to task by another correspondent, who related that 
her own garden contained a splendid and very old bed 
of Lily of the Valley. One day a professional gardener 
who happened to see them said that the roots were much 
too crowded, and advised their being taken up and re- 
planted. Since then, she averred, scarcely a flower had 
appeared, and she believed it would be years before the 
bed regained its former beauty. The moral of this is 
that if your Lily of the Valley bed is flourishing, leave 
it alone. One of my happiest recollections is of a Lily 
of the Valley bed in a western county; it flanked both 
sides of a walk in the kitchen garden. The plants were 
as thick as Peas in a pod, yet they flowered profusely. I 
was assured that they had not been disturbed for twenty 
years, yet they showed no sign of deterioration. There 

3 



October — Looking Forward 

is no doubt that, generally speaking, Lily of the Valley 
prefers to remain undisturbed. But if the plants are ob- 
viously unhappy, the only thing to do is to take them up 
and replant at a greater distance apart. Much may be done 
to keep them healthy by applying a top dressing of leaf 
soil and partly decayed manure each avitumn. In plant- 
ing Lily of the Valley, choose a position partly shaded 
from the sun, for example, a bed or border facing west 5 
have it dug 18 inches deep at least and plenty of manure 
and leaf soil mixed in. The crowns (each separate root 
is called a crown, and a certain number of crowns make 
up a bundle) should be put about 3 inches apart and at 
such a depth that the tops are only slightly covered- 
But this is a wayward plant. You may take the greatest 
pains to establish it and be less successful than those 
who treat it in haphazard fashion. Must I confess that 
the only Lilies of the Valley I now possess are those that 
came underneath my neighbour's fence, and he, I am 
sure, took no great pains to establish them. So at the 
end of this long paragraph I am inclined to think that 
I have made " much ado about nothing." 

King's Spear or Eremurus. — How noble a plant is 
the King's Spear, of which the botanical name is Ere- 
murus ! Why amateurs should habitually neglect it I 
am at a loss to understand. When in bloom in early 
summer it makes an imposing display. It thrives in 
deep, well-drained loamy soil. The spikes of some 
kinds tower to a height of 6 or 8 feet, and the upper 
part of the stem is covered with small blossoms. The 
roots are almost as remarkable as the flower stems ; 
they are thick and thong-like, radiating from a central 
bud like the spokes of a wheel. They are brittle, and 
should be handled with care. A soil covering of 4 or 
5 inches is necessary, and it is advisable to place a 
mound of ashes on the surface of the soil immediately 
above them for the sake of protection during winter. 
Eremurus looks especially well towards the back of the 

9 



Round the Year in the Garden 

flower border or in some prominent place in the large 
rock garden. The best kinds are Bungei, soft yellow, 
4 to 5 feet ; himalaicus, white, 6 to 8 feet ; robustus, 
pale rose, 8 feet; and Warei, bronze salmon shades, 6 
feet high. 

Colour Schemes with Hyacinths, — Among popular 
bulbs for October planting, the Hyacinth takes high 
place. It is curious that a plant of such pronouncedly 
stiff growth should invariably be placed in lines or 
rows; in no other way could its stiffness be emphasised 
more distinctly. One should exercise some discrimination 
— plant it in little groups, rounded or irregularly shaped, 
and endeavour, following Messrs. Sutton's lead, to group 
the colours to the best advantage. There are some 
delightful shades among the Hyacinths, and many 
opportunities for creating charming coloiir groups are 
offered. Why not, for example, mingle pale rose and 
pale blue ; cream or pale yellow and blue ; dark blue and 
light blue ; cream and crimson ; and so on. Colour 
groups arranged along the front of the flower border 
are altogether charming. If a bed must be filled with 
Hyacinths let each group consist of a separate variety, 
and arrange the colours in harmonious juxtaposition. 
Hyacinth bulbs ought to be covered with about 2 inches 
of soil and put from 5 to 6 inches apart. The largest 
bulbs are not necessarily the best ; the surest indications 
of quality are firmness and weight. The bulbs of some 
varieties are naturally larger than those of others, but 
even then weight and firmness are of importance. 

A few of the best singles are : Grandeur a Merveille, 
blush ; Grand Maitre, light blue ; King of the Blues, blue ; 
City of Haarlem, pale yellow ; General Pelissier, crimson ; 
Gertrude, rose ; and Lord Balfour, purplish shade. Of 
doubles, one might choose Jaune Supreme, yellow ; 
Blocksberg, light blue ; Koh-i-noor, reddish ; La Tour 
d'Auvergne, white ; and Noble par Merite, rose. 

While writing of Hyacinths it may be worth while 



October — Looking Forward 

to draw atteutiou to the charming little Hyacinthus 
amethystinus, which bears a miniature spike of bluish 
flowers in early summer. It is delightful for the rockery 
or for choice spots elsewhere in the garden. 

Spanish and English Irises are splendid flowers of 
early summer, the former opening in early June and the 
latter a week or two later. The prevailing shades of the 
Spanish kinds are yellow, blue and white, while the 
English Irises are of mauve, purple, white, crimson and 
other colours. One may obtain named varieties, but it is 
scarcely necessary to do so. The opinion appears to 
prevail among amateurs that these biilbs ought to be 
planted in spring and taken up again in autumn. 
Nothing could be farther from the truth ; they are 
perfectly hardy and thrive best if planted in October. 
They may be left undisturbed for several years, until, 
in fact, they become so crowded that it is necessary to 
replant. The time to do this is as soon as the leaves have 
died down. Groups of Spanish Iris are particularly 
welcome in the rock garden, in the flower border, 
between Border Carnations, and even among the Roses. 
The bulbs are put about 3 inches deep and 4 inches apart. 
The English Irises are more vigorous than the Spanish 
kinds, and should be covered with 3 inches of soil and be 
placed quite 6 inches apart. They are better suited for 
the flower border than the rockery. Within recent years 
a new race of bulbous Irises has been obtained ; they 
are known as Dutch Irises because they were raised in 
Holland, and bear a close resemblance to the Spanish 
kinds, though they bloom rather earlier. 

The Flag Iris. — October is a suitable month in which 
to plant the Flag or German Irises, an invaluable race 
of plants. They will flourish in all sorts of odd places, 
on a shady border, in full sunshine, on a hot bank in 
poor soil, and I have even seen them on the top of a 
stone wall with the scantiest of soil covering to the roots. 
Most people make the mistake of planting them too 

1 1 



Round the Year in the Garden 

deeply. It is necessary merely to cover the rhizome (as 
the rootstock is called) very slightly, certainly with not 
more than 1 inch of soil. The Flag Irises greatly dislike 
being disturbed. Usually they do not blossom the first 
season after planting, so, in choosing a place for them, 
one should decide that the plants are to remain there. 
There are many charming varieties among the Bearded 
Flag Irises, from which one may choose albo-caerulea, 
white with blue flush ; Darius, yellow and purple ; Floren- 
tina, creamy white ; Germanica, the common purple kind ; 
Gracchus, yellow ; Madame Chereau, white and blue ; 
pallida dalmatica, lavender blue ; and Victorine, blue and 
purple. The petals of the Iris are classified as standards 
and falls ; the standards are the upright petals and the 
falls are the drooping ones. The colour of the standards 
is frequently distinct from that of the falls. 

The dwarf Bearded Flag Irises are not commonly met 
with in amateurs' gardens, yet their early flowering 
should commend them for planting in the rock garden 
or on a sunny border. There they yield welcome bloom 
in spring and early summer before the ordinary Flag 
Irises are out. 

Among the Beardless Flag Irises (the distinction be- 
tween these and the Bearded kinds is chiefly that there 
are hairs on the falls of the latter and not on those 
of the former) deserving of particular mention are the 
Siberian Iris (sibirica), a lovely pale blue kind that thrives 
especially well by the waterside ; the vigorous Iris 
orientalis, yellow and white ; Iris Missouriensis, pale blue 
and yellow ; Iris Monnieri, light yellow, a strong growing 
sort ; and Iris graminea, blue and purple. The beautiful 
winter-flowering Algerian Iris (unguicularis or stylosa) 
is classed among the Beardless kinds also. Everyone 
should grow a plant or two of this for the sake of its 
fragrant, lavender-coloured blossoms in winter. It must 
be planted on a warm, sunny border, preferably at the 
foot of a wall, and thrives best in light soil. 

12 



October — Looking Forward 

The Japanese Irises are unsurpassed for gorgeous 
colouring and, if the correct conditions are provided, they 
offer little difficulty to the gardener. They must have 
deep, moist soil and a sunny situation, and never look 
so well as by the waterside. However, it is not everyone 
who has a pond or stream by which to plant them, yet 
that is no good reason why they should be neglected. 
They "will thrive in the flower border in deep, loamy soil 
that is kept thoroughly moist in summer. The individual 
flowers of some of the new varieties are large and of 
dazzling colouring ; but they are expensive, and a mixed 
collection of older, mixed sorts is gorgeous enough. 

Lilies to Plant in October. — There are so many 
spurious Lilies among garden flowers that the amateur 
may be pardoned if sometimes he is unable to distinguish 
between the true and the false. The only true Lilies are 
those of which the botanical name is Lilium ; a few fami- 
liar examples are the Tiger Lily, the Madonna Lily and 
the white Trumpet Lily. The bulbs of many kinds are 
obtainable in autumn and ought then to be planted. So 
many people restrict their choice to the golden-rayed 
auratum, the rose-coloured speciosum, and the orange? 
black-spotted tigrinum, all of which they plant in spring. 
The bulbs of Lilium auratum are not generally obtainable 
until towards the end of the Old, or early in the New, 
Year, and in this case planting out of doors may well 
be deferred until spring, but the bulbs of the Tiger 
and speciosum Lilies are available in October. It is per- 
fectly true that some Lilies are capricious and need 
special conditions to ensure success in cultivation, but 
a far greater number are as easy to grow as ordinary 
border flowers. Why do not amateurs plant them ? 
They are not expensive, and each year they increase in 
size and beauty. It is advisable to mix sand freely in 
the soil immediately round about the bulbs. 

Of those suitable for planting in an ordinary, well- 
tilled boi'der the following are to be recommended : 



Round the Year in the Garden 

* Batemanniae, 3 feet, apricot coloured, blooms in August ; 
bulbiferum, 2 to 3 feet, orange, June (this kind produces 
small bulbs in the axils of the leaves ; they offer a ready- 
means of increase, and should be planted in boxes of soil 
at first) ; chalcedonicum (Scarlet Turk's Cap), 3 feet, 
brilliant red, blooms in July ; * croceum (the old Orange 
Lily of cottage gardens), 3 feet, June ; Hansoni, 4 feet, 
yellow, June ; Martagon, 3 feet, purple, June (the White 
Martagon is one of the loveliest of Lilies) ; pyrenaicum 
(Yellow Turk's Cap), 18 to 24 inches, yellow with black 
spots, May and June (the odour of the flowers is rather 
unpleasant) ; * speciosum and its varieties album Kraet- 
zeri (white) and Melpomene (crimson), 3 to 4 feet, August 
and September ; * thunbergianiim, 18 inches, orange 
yellow, June (there are many named varieties, of which 
Orange Queen and Prince of Orange are among the best) ; 

* tigrinum and its varieties Fortunei and splendens, 
4 to 5 feet, August and September ; * umbellatum, 2 feet, 
orange colour, June. All these should be planted in 
October, for they are hardy and thrive better than when 
planting is deferred until spring. 

Then there are Lilies which need moist, peaty soil 
and are grateful for a little shade, but these requirements 
are not difficult to fulfil. A few kinds suitable for such 
positions are canadense (Canadian Lily), 3 feet, orange 
yellow, July ; pardalinum (Panther Lily), 5 feet, orange 
and yellow marked with crimson, July; and superbum, 
6 feet, orange red, July. 

There are other lovely Lilies for early autumn plant- 
ing, such for example as testaceum (Nankeen Lily), 4 to 5 
feet, soft yellow, June ; and *Henryi, 6 feet, orange 
yellow, August (neither of which is difficult in fair soil 
among shrubs), but probably sufficient has been said to 
convince the reader that many lovely and satisfactory 
flowers are to be found among the easily grown garden 
Lilies, and to arouse in him some desire to possess 
them. 

14 



October — Looking Forward 

The bulbs of some Lilies form roots freely at the base 
of the stem above the bulb, while others produce roots 
below the bulb only. It is necessary to plant the former 
kinds at such a depth that there is about 5 inches of 
soil above them. The latter sorts, those that root from 
the bulb only, should be covered with about 3 inches of 
soil. In these notes stem-rooting Lilies are distinguished 
by an asterisk. Most Lilies thrive particularly well 
among shrubs, for the young stems thus receive welcome 
protection in spring. 

All about Daffodils. — ^The remarkably high prices 
asked for bulbs of the newer varieties of Narcissus or 
Daffodil must often cause surprise to the non-professional 
grower. It is not uncommon to find bulbs of the latest 
creations listed at several guineas each, and one imagines 
they can only find a home with those who wish to use them 
for purposes of cross-fertilisation, in the endeavour to 
produce finer and still more expensive sorts. It is not 
conceivable that the average garden lover will pay 
guineas for certain Daffodils when, for a few shillings a 
dozen or even a hundred, he can obtain others which, if 
not equally fine, are at least very beautiful. The modern 
highly priced Daffodil is a fancier's flower, and in the 
hands of experts undergoes continual change, which 
does not necessarily enhance its symmetry of form. Yet 
the grace of the Narcissus has ever been its greatest 
charm. One may be pardoned for wondering how much 
bigger the trumpets must be before they satisfy their 
ci'eators, and whether the broadening of the petals until 
they overlap and the metamorphosis of the cup really 
add to the grace of the flower. Our debt to the 
hybridists is for their work in extending the range of 
colour in the Narcissus ; remarkable results have been 
achieved in this direction. 

The Lesser Daffodils are among the most fascinating 
flowers of spring, and all too little grown. What can 
be more enchanting than the dainty Hoop Petticoat 

15 



Round the Year in the Garden 

Daffodil (Narcissus Bulbocodium) and its citron-coloured 
and white varieties, named, respectively, citrinus and 
monophyllus ; the Cyclamen-flowered Daffodil (Narcissus 
cyclamineus) ; the Angel's Tears Daffodil (Narcissus 
triandrus albus) ; the small Rush-leaved Daffodil (Nar- 
cissus juncifolius) ; minimus, a tiny yellow flower; the 
pure white Narcissus moschatus, and Narcissus Johnstoni 
Queen of Spain, a comparatively small soft yellow 
trumpet flower ? A cool, well-drained spot in the rock 
garden suits them well, although some of them may 
be naturalised on the outskirts of trees. 

Trumpet Daffodils. — The varieties of Daffodils for 
planting in beds and borders, and for naturalising in 
grass, are innvimerable. Among the finest yellow 
Trumpets are Emperor, Glory of Leiden, Golden Spur 
(especially valuable for growing in pots under glass), 
King Alfred, obvallaris (the Tenby Daffodil, an early 
kind, smaller than the others named), P. R. Barr and 
Van Waveren's Giant. Of bicolor Trumpets (those in 
which the trumpet is yellow and the perianth white) 
a few good ones are Apricot, Duke of Bedford, Empress, 
Horsfieldii, J. B. M. Camm, Mrs. Walter T. Ware, Victoria 
(excellent for pots in the greenhouse) and Weardale 
Perfection. The white Trumpets are particularly 
beautiful, and everyone ought to grow at least a few 
of them ; such for example as albicans, Madame de 
Graaff, Mrs. Thompson and W. P. Milner. 

Chalice-cupped and Star Narcissi. — Next on the 
list, according to the accepted classification, come the 
Chalice-cupped Narcissi, of which representative varieties 
are Autocrat, Beauty, C. J. Backhouse, Frank Miles, 
Gloria Mundi, Sir Watkin, Stella and Stella superba. 
The Barri or Star Narcissi have a smaller cup or crown 
than the Chalice - cupped varieties. Beautiful sorts 
are Agnes Barr, Albatross, Burbidgei, conspicuus, 
Firebrand, Flora Wilson, John Bain, Seagull and 
Vanessa. The Eucharis - flowered Narcissi are only 

i6 



October — Looking Forward 

distinguished from the two former classes by their 
colouring. The flower is white or pale, while the cups 
of the Chalice-cupped and Star Narcissi are usually 
brilliantly coloured, and contrast strongly with the 
light perianth. The Eucharis - flowered kinds are very 
charming, and one may with advantage select such 
as Leedsii, Ariadne, Duchess of Westminster, Katherine 
Spurrell, Minnie Hume, Mrs. Langtry, Salmonetta, Una, 
Waterwitch and White Lady. Among the true Poet's 
Narcissi there are now some lovely flowers, though the 
best are still expensive. Almira, Cassandra, Herrick, 
Pheasant's Eye, ornatus, poetarum and White Standard 
are some of those of reasonable price. 

On Growing Daffodils. — The most convenient way 
of growing Daffodils is in beds by themselves ; when the 
time comes to prepare for summer flowers the bulbs are 
taken up and planted on a reserve border, there to 
remain until the leaves have died down. In due course 
they are lifted and stored, and replanted in October. 
But this is certainly not the most picturesque way of 
planting. They look far better in groups in the herba- 
ceous border and shrubbery, and in grassy corners, or 
if one has sufficient room, naturalised in masses in grass, 
among thin woodland, and by the waterside. Perhaps 
in the latter position they are most attractive of all, for 
their graceful flowers gain an added charm from the 
reflection on the water surface. So many people 
complain that Daffodils and other spring-flowering 
bulbs are a nuisance in the flower border after their 
beauty has passed, but that I think depends upon how 
and where they are planted. If one scatters them in 
twos and threes all over the border, or groups them 
towards the front, it is true that their fading foliage 
will prove an eyesore, for it does not disappear until 
July. If, however, the bulbs are grouped towards the 
back of the border, among the vigorous perennials, such 
as Michaelmas Daisy, Helenium, Aconitum, Sunflower, 
c 17 



Round the Year in the Garden 

and others, their leaves are gradually hidden as the 
herbaceous plants progress. 

Daffodil bulbs ought to be put at such a depth that 
they are covered with quite twice their own depth of 
soil. I am sure that most amateurs plant them much 
too near the surface. When planting in grass care 
should be taken to make the holes of such a width that 
the bulbs will reach the bottom ; otherwise they may 
be suspended an inch or so above the soil, in which case 
the roots will perish. 

A few of the best varieties for naturalising in the 
garden are Emperor, Empress, Stella, Stella superba, 
Mrs. Langtry, William Goldring, Waterwitch, Horsfieldii, 
Barri conspicuus, Minnie Hume, obvallaris and maximus. 

In conclusion, it may perhaps be as well to explain 
the significance of the terms Daffodil and Narcissus ; 
their indiscriminate use is somewhat misleading. The 
title of Daffodil is usually applied only to those flowers 
in which the central cup is large and prominent, and 
as long as, or longer than, the petals or segments of 
the perianth. They are known as Trumpet Daffodils. 
The remaining kinds, in which the central cup is not 
so long as the perianth segments, are termed Narcissi. 
However, the botanical name of the genus is Narcissus, 
so that the Trumpet Daffodil is a Narcissus equally 
with all others. 

The Expense of Gardens. — Few amateurs have found 
gardening to be so cheap as they expected, but that is 
scarcely matter for wonder, since similar disillusion ensues 
in almost any recreation that may be taken up. So many 
additional items that were not thought of, or were ignored 
originally, seem necessary, on closer consideration, to 
such an equipment as is likely to ensure success. On 
reflection, one must allow that garden of fair size 
cannot be furnished without moderate outlay, but 
subsequently gardening is, I think, expensive or not 
as one chooses to make it. It is possible to have a 

i8 




FLOWER BORDER. SHRUBBKIO, AiSL. ROCK GARDEI 




FLOWER-FRINGED PATH IN THE ROCKERY 




A BEAUTIFUL HARDY FLOWER OF RfAY (CAMASSIA LF.ICHTLINI) 

(Cream white) 



October — Looking Forward 

border full of delightful flowers that cost little, or a 
border of no greater charm filled with flowers that 
cost very much more. One of the chief delights of 
gardening is that the limited expenditure of one may 
produce just as charming a garden as the lavish outlay 
of another, providing it is dispensed discriminatingly. 
Often enough, the only difference is that the latter 
buys new plants, while the former is content with 
those that are common. They are not less attractive 
on that account, and, in fact, are often to be preferred ; 
their worth has been proved by long cultivation, 
while novelties are often lauded to an extent that 
is not justified by their subsequent behaviour in the 
garden. 

If it is somewhat expensive to start gardening, how 
cheap to continue, if only one takes advantage of 
opportunities, as they occur, of augmenting the stock 
of flowers that are cherished. Those hardy plants of 
greatest value for display usually grow vigorously, and 
in the course of a season or two may be increased to 
any extent. The secret of successful plant growing, 
upon which gardening is chiefly dependent, lies in 
thorough initial soil preparation and in timely atten- 
tion. Haphazard spade work, and doing things at the 
wrong time, are the chief reasons why so many complain 
that their gardening is expensive. To pursue gardening 
with pleasure one needs also, perhaps to an unusual 
degree, to possess the virtue of patience. It is a 
common and, I think, a natural failing with those who 
take possession of a new garden to strive for immediate 
effects, though the results are invariably disappointing 
and the methods inevitably expensive. A garden that 
is planned and planted to a design hastily conceived 
rarely pleases ; until one has come to know the garden, 
one is not in a position to decide how it may be filled 
to the best advantage. It has been said that one 
should see the year round before planting anything at 

19 



Round the Year in the Garden 

all, and if the statement is rather exaggerated, at least 
the moral is plain to see. It is only by watching a 
garden approach gradually to the ideal one set out to 
achieve that full pleasure is gained; the progress of 
the trees and plants may give even greater delight 
than the consummation of their beauty. 

The most interesting and easily the cheapest way of 
adding to the treasures of a garden is to raise plants 
from seed. Most herbaceous perennials bloom in the 
year following that in which seed is sown, and they grow 
with remarkable vigour once the seedling stage is passed. 
It is a mistake to purchase big plants, especially of shrubs. 
Choice shrubs are expensive, and their loss is bound to 
lead to disappointment. The risk of failure is minimised 
if small specimens are planted in early autumn. 

Alterations in the Garden. — The season of waning 
flowers has its own peculiar compensations in the oppor- 
tunities afforded of preparing for another year, and of 
carrying out such alterations as may have been decided 
upon. While it is true generally that the garden which 
was well planned in the first place and has grown old 
with the passing years charms us most, there is always 
scope for alterations of some extent. To the gardener, 
happily disdainful of the intervening months, and visual- 
ising next summer's display, come inspirations for im- 
provements in the arrangement of beds and borders and 
walks, and for fresh planting. No phase of gardening 
is more exhilarating than that of working to a fresh 
design, whether it be merely perfecting an awkward curve, 
forming a new rose bed, or the more ambitious task 
of making a rockery or planting a new flower border. It 
were perhaps idle to attempt to suggest improvements 
likely to be useful generally, yet so many gardens 
exemplify similar errors that even a wide statement may 
possibly contain details that are of value in individual 
cases. 

In planting the garden some people consider it only as 

20 



October — Looking Forward 

a place in whicli to grow flowers, and it deteriorates into 
a series of beds and borders, lacking charm and void of 
inspiration ; it is, in fact, a flower show. A garden should 
be a place of alternating light and shadow ; of cool 
arbours and shady seats looking out upon groups of 
brilliant flowers ; of winding walks that lead to unsus- 
pected beauties ; of tree and shrub groups, of neutral 
greys and soft greens, that enhance the effect of the 
gardener's galaxy of colour ; in short, a happy blending of 
natural planting and artificial cultivation. Some features, 
as for example a straight walk or a lawn, are attractive 
only when possessing the dignity of length or spacious- 
ness. In a small garden it is better to have a grass walk, 
as wide and long as circumstances allow, than a small 
square grass plot ; a short winding walk is better than a 
short straight one. Much can be done to add variety and 
fresh interest to a garden by planting a screen of shrubs 
here, curving a walk there, raising a mound somewhere 
else, and the present is the time to put this work in hand. 
Veiling the Outlook. — The small garden is generally 
less attractive than the large one because its incongruity 
is apparent ; it is out of harmony with its surroundings 
and obviously an artificial creation. No garden can 
charm fully unless it is, either apparently or really, in 
an agreeable setting. As the environment of the small 
garden is usually such as to detract from, rather than 
add to, its beauty, there remains only for the designer to 
deceive. Since one is powerless to alter the surroundings, 
the deception must be directed towards modifying the ovit- 
look. This needs to be done Avith care, or the plot may 
be exposed by its own artificiality. It is a simple matter 
to hide an ugly object with a belt of trees or a bank 
of shrubs (why one should be a " belt " and the other 
a "bank " it is not easy to say), but there is little gained 
by doing so ; either is obviously planted for the purpose 
of a screen, and one does not shut out beauty from a 
garden. It is better to veil the offending spot with 

21 



Round the Year in the Garden 

tracery of fragile leaf, lissom stem, and welcome blos- 
som ; while themselves attiactive, they modify the 
outlook with subtle influence, softening the lines of 
neighbouring buildings, weaving fairy frames round 
staring windows, toning crude bricks with mellowing 
touch. Even prosaic roofs and chimneys may add agree- 
able variety to the view if seen only through a curtain 
of leafy branches, all blossom-spangled in due season. 
Thus veiled, the unlovely corner of the world that 
matters, as seen from the garden, is shorn of its vul- 
garity, and revealed only in glimpses that stir the 
imagination. 

The four walls or fences of a garden of restricted size 
are predominant ; they exert a depressing influence and 
seem to insist upon the futility of attempting anything 
beyond commonplace arrangement. But there are ways 
of transforming the aspect even of a garden in the 
suburbs. The creation of an indefinite boundary should be 
the chief aim of the designer. If the corners are rounded 
off with groups of shrubs and flowers, the garden at once 
makes some appeal, and acquires an air of mystery 
because its full extent and the exact position of its 
boundaries, previously exposed, are now hidden. 

The monotony of the fence-line should be broken by 
trails of clustering Rose and Clematis. Of Roses one 
may choose those that scarcely lose the old leaves before 
the new ones appear, such for instance as Aimee Vibert, 
Tea Rambler, Alberic Barbier, Hiawatha and Shower of 
Gold. Of Clematis there are many equally prodigal of 
leaf and profuse of blossom ; they commingle good- 
naturedly to form a fairy fence of garden beauty. If 
some of the climbers take liberties in the matter of space, 
gentle admonition with the pruning knife has the 
necessary effect. The Traveller's Joy (Clematis Vitalba), 
the Mountain Clematis (montana), the Virgin's Bower 
(Clematis flammula), together with Polygonum bald- 
schuanicum (which certainly does not deserve its horrible 

22 



October — Looking Forward 

name, for it becomes a mass of graceful creamy blossom 
twice a year) — all are rampant climbers and each is 
delightful in its own way. Perhaps the most exquisite 
flower picture of all results from planting Laburnum, 
the tree of golden tresses, and coaxing mavive Wistaria 
round its stem and through the branches. 

For forming groups where sharp corners are con- 
spicuous, flowering shrubs ought to be used chiefly. 
There are many from which to choose. One might, for 
the sake of their glow in the winter's gloom, have a 
few Witch Hazels (Hamamelis) and the yellow Jessamine 
(nudiflorum), for fragrance the Winter Sweet (Chimonan- 
thus fragrans), and for flower company when the earth 
wakes slowly, the Forsythia or Golden Bell, the fragrant 
Mezereon (Daphne Mezereum), the sweet-scented Honey- 
suckle (Lonicera fragrantissima), and Almond. They 
herald the coming of spring, when buds burst to blossom 
in riotous profusion with the opening of the ornamental 
Peaches, Plums, Cherries, Pears and Crabs, followed by 
the Thorns, Laburnums, Barberries and Spiraeas. 

Lifting and Storing Flower Roots. — Though the 
Michaelmas Daisies, Sunflowers, Sea Hollies, Dahlias, 
Redhot Pokers, and a few others may remain gay for 
some weeks, the flowers of summer are things of the 
past, and attention must soon be directed towards lifting 
and storing the roots or bulbs of such as need this care. 
The roots of Gladiolus should be taken up as soon as the 
leaves have turned yellow (the leaf stems being cut off 
to within a few inches of the base) and laid out to dry 
on a shelf in the greenhouse, or some other dry, sunny 
place. In the course of ten days or so the soil may 
be rubbed oft' easily, and the roots stored in paper bags 
for the winter. The small offsets found at the base of 
the Gladiolus roots should be taken off ; if kept during 
winter in a box of sand and planted in spring they will 
make such progress as to reach flowering size in a year 
or two. Some gardeners lift the roots of Montbretia 



Round the Year in the Garden 

each autumn, store them during winter, and replant in 
spring. Although this plan, no doubt, ensures the finest 
display of bloom, it is not necessary, so far as the pro- 
tection of the roots is concerned, for they pass the winter 
safely in the ground. They ought, however, to be taken 
up, separated and replanted every three or four years ; 
otherwise they become crowded and deteriorate. The 
Cape Hyacinth (Hyacinthus candicans) is best taken up 
and stored like Gladiolus. It is not generally safe to 
leave the perennial Lobelia out of doors ; the roots should 
be placed in boxes of light leafy soil, and stored in the 
greenhouse safe from frost. The soil needs to be kept 
slightly moist, or the roots may collapse from " dry rot." 
The Canna or Indian Shot is a showy summer flower, 
the roots of which need to be stored during winter ; 
they are not fastidious and may be placed beneath the 
stage in the greenhouse. Readers having a warm garden 
and light soil may leave their Dahlia roots in the ground 
throughout the winter, merely protecting them with a 
heap of ashes before cold, wet weather sets in; but 
generally it is best to lift and store them in boxes of sand 
or light soil. So, too, with Tuberous Begonias ; if some 
of the best roots of these are taken up and potted they 
yield a welcome display of bloom in the greenhouse 
during aiitumn. 

Border Carnations that were layered in July and 
August have become well rooted by now, and are ready 
to be lifted. The question as to whether they ought to 
be planted directly to form a new bed, or whether they 
should be placed in 3 -inch pots and kept in a cold frame, 
annvially provokes discussion. There is little doubt tbat 
in gardens ordinarily circumstanced — in which the soil is 
not unusually clayey or where climatic conditions are not 
particularly severe — it is better to plant the rooted layers 
now. When conditions are unfavourable, probably the 
plants are better in pots until March, but the finest show 
is invariably given by those put out in autumn. In 

24 



October — Looking Forward 

preparing the bed a little decayed manure may be dug in 
about 12 inches deep, while soot and wood ashes are 
suitable for mixing with the upper soil. The Carnations 
must be planted firmly, otherwise their chances of be- 
coming well rooted are jeopardised. They ought to be 
placed about 18 inches apart; if arranged more closely 
than this the work of layering will be inconvenient. 

Wood Ashes. — A work of some importance at the 
present time is that of cutting down the faded stems of 
herbaceous plants, collecting diseased leaves and fruits 
that have fallen, and removing dead and unhealthy 
branches and shoots from trees, shrubs and roses. All 
ought to be burnt. Have the garden fire blazing 
merrily ; some of the essential plant foods may disappear 
in the smoke wraiths, but the wood ashes are still an 
invaluable fertiliser, and should be zealously kept. By 
digging a pit and burying all the rubbish one may, 
in the course of months, have manure of even greater 
value, for none of its constituents will have been lost. 
Nevertheless I should choose the garden fire. As at 
the touch of a magic wand they fade away — first the 
old Pea sticks, then the dried stems of last year's flowers, 
finally the weeds and green rubbish, and a heap of 
wood ashes remains — a cheap fertiliser ready to hand. 
Apply it and dig it in and next year's plants will rise 
from the ashes of their dead friends and flourish and 
" blossom like the rose. " It is necessary to keep the 
ashes dry, otherwise mvich of their value is lost. They 
may be applied to the lawn, used in potting compost, or 
on the borders in the flower, fruit and kitchen garden. 
Wood ashes are valuable chiefly for the potash they 
contain, and may well be used instead of kainit, which is 
far more expensive. 

Digging is usually considered a soulless task, and 
commonly falls to the lot of the working gardener. I 
have found it exhilarating — but only in October, when 
the earth is dry and easily " worked." It is not even 

25 



Round the Year in the Garden 

laborious then if one has learnt how to do it correctly. 
Those who do their own digging might find it worth 
while — absurd as it seems — to take a lesson in this, the 
most ancient of crafts. There is a right and a wrong 
way of digging, and the right way is by far the 
easier. People who do not know how to dig find 
that the unwonted exertion leaves them with a most 
uncomfortable aching in the back ; those who do, 
experience only an aching in the wrists. Gardening 
and golf are my recreations — I am more successful in 
one than another — and in their pursuit I am often 
reminded of similarities. Digging and "driving" have 
much in common. He who exerts his whole strength 
in either case will find the result disappointing. With 
a flick of the wrists at the proper moment the little 
white ball is dispatched farthest, and the soil most 
easily. And the precise moment for its execution is, 
in the case of digging, when the spadeful of soil is 
about to be put in its place. Don't throw it there, but 
vise your wrists ; it will go quite far enough, and very 
little exertion is needed. Don't " rush " at it if you 
have a big plot to dig. Take a lesson from the British 
workman. Those who have clayey soil to deal with 
should endeavour to get the planting done as the digging 
proceeds. This obviates the necessity of treading on the 
ground again, and, as all know who have heavy land to 
cultivate, that is above all things to be avoided. 

Rose and Shrub Cuttings.— Those who wish to 
raise an increased stock of certain kinds of Roses 
should insert cuttings early in October. The cuttings 
are formed from firm shoots of the current season's 
growth, preferably those that have flowered. The most 
suitable length for a cutting is 9 inches, though it is 
not possible always to ensure this ; the base is prepared 
by cutting through the stem immediately beneath a 
joint ; all leaves except the two uppermost ones are 
removed. Two-thirds of the cutting should be inserted 

26 



October — Looking Forward 

beneath the soil, one-third only being above the ground. 
A border in the open garden or behind a wall facing 
north or east forms a suitable position. When the 
ground has been dug, a trench 6 inches deep, and having 
a firm straight back, is prepared, and a layer of sand 
scattered in the bottom. The cuttings are placed against 
the back of the trench, their bases resting on sand ; they 
should be about 8 inches apart. A little soil is placed 
against them and trodden firmly, and the trench is filled. 
Rambler Roses, Chinas, vigorous Hybrid Perpetuals 
and Hybrid Teas usually prove most satisfactory from 
cuttings, though it is worth while experimenting with 
any favourite variety. It is not usual to disturb the 
cuttings until the following autumn. Of shrubs that 
may be increased in a similar Tvay at this season are the 
following : Privet, Mock Orange (Philadelphus), Flower- 
ing Currant (Ribes), Bush Honeysuckle (Diervilla), 
Forsythia or Golden Bell, Kerria (Jew's Mallow), Spiraea, 
Deutzia, and Viburnum or Guelder Rose. 

Laying Turf is rather a troublesome task, and most 
failures are probably due to lack of patience. If turves 
are laid immediately the ground is dug, inequalities 
of surface are certain to result ; it is far better to wait 
a week or two, until the soil has settled to its normal 
level, and meantime to make it firm by rolling. Turves 
ought not to be laid in such a way that the edges of those 
in one row come in line with the edges of those in the 
next row ; the ends of the turves in the second row 
should be at the middle of those in the first row, and 
thus in a line with those of the fourth row. It is a 
good plan to cover newly-laid turf with a sprinkling 
of sifted soil ; it will be washed into the crevices during 
winter, and helps to consolidate the lawn. Newly-laid 
turf must be well beaten down, preferably by means of 
a proper turf beater made of wood. A simple way to 
renovate a worn grass edge is to cut off a strip of the 
turf some 10 inches wide and turn it round so that the 

2^ 



Round the Year in the Garden 

new straight edge is at the margin of the walk ; the 
small space between the broken edge and the lawn is 
easily filled with soil, in which grass seeds may be sown. 

Renovating Arches and Pergolas. — Much disappoint- 
ment may be prevented if, at this season, the pillars 
and arches of wood are examined and defective ones 
made good. It is necessary to detach all growths from 
their supports to carry out the work efficiently, but this 
affords an opportunity (which ought really to have been 
taken earlier) of cutting out old and worthless stems 
and of tying in the remaining ones correctly. An 
excellent way of adding to the years of a rustic arch 
or pillar is to fix the base of each pole in an earthen- 
ware pipe, such as is used for draining, or in iron piping, 
and to fill the space with cement. One may creosote 
the bottom of the poles, or use iron supports, and cover 
them or not with strips of bark. It is often stated that 
climbing plants will not thrive on iron, but this is 
disproved by experience. However, they do not, I 
think, look so well as on wood. 

There are dead leaves and faded stems on the rockery 
and, if not removed, they are liable to cause some of 
the plants to perish. A few rock plants are fastidious 
in so far as they dislike our wet, mild winter. Such as 
Asperula suberosa, most Androsaces, Gentiana verna 
and acaulis, Acantholimon venustum. Antirrhinum 
asarinum, Arnebia echioides, Silene acaulis, Lewisia, 
Omphalodes Luciliae, Onosma and Soldanella are among 
those that need covering with a piece of glass raised 
a few inches above the ground. One may still plant 
the vigorous kinds of rockery flowers, but it is as well to 
defer putting in choice kinds until spring. 

Planting Spring Beds. — Those who follow the practice 
of summer bedding must also plant spring flowering 
plants, if they wish to keep the garden gay throughout 
as long a season as possible. Some of the most delightful 
displays are created with such familiar spring flowers as 

28 



October — Looking Forward 

Daffodil, Tulip, Hyacinth, Polyanthus, Primrose, Arabis, 
Wallflower, Forget-me-not, Aubrietia, Yellow Alyssum, 
Dwarf Phlox, and a few others. All these are obtained 
by various methods of propagation carried out in early 
summer when the plants have finished blossoming — by 
dividing the old roots and replanting the portions on a 
reserve border, by taking cuttings, or by sowing seeds. 
If these tasks are performed in May and the plants are 
attended to during summer, they will have developed 
splendidly by October — the time to arrange them in the 
beds in which they will bloom. Innumerable colour 
schemes and attractive methods of groui)ing will suggest 
themselves to thoughtful gardeners, and the choice of 
colours is so wide that there is plenty of scope for the 
exercise of individual preferences. It may be worth while 
to mention a few examples of showy spring beds. The 
double white Arabis makes an admirable ground covering 
for many taller flowers, though the effect is never more 
striking than when crimson, scarlet, or pink Tulips are 
used. Mauve Aubrietia and white evergreen Candytuft 
form a dainty colour scheme. Yellow Wallflowers and 
Forget-me-nots provide a brilliant display. The dwarf 
Phlox subulata or Moss Pink may be used as a ground 
covering for white Tulips ; these, too, look well above a 
groundwork of mauve Aubrietia. A striking, if rather 
garish, association is that of red Tulips and yellow 
Alyssum. Pink Tulips among Forget-me-nots, and pink 
or blue Hyacinths with white Arabis, are very showy. 

In the Greenhouse 

A Charming Autumn Flower. — In the greenhouse 
there has been nothing more charming lately than the 
Nerine, which bears bunches of narrow, tube-shaped 
flowers in late summer and autunni, and is an ideal 
plant for an amateur's greenhouse. Although Nerines 
are probably all the better for a little warmth in cold 

29 



Round the Year in the Garden 

weather, they will thrive without it. At a meeting of 
the Royal Horticultural Society some excellent plants 
were shown which were said to have passed the previous 
winter in a cold frame. Nerines grow during winter, 
and thus need especial care at that season. They should 
be placed in the sunniest part of the greenhouse, and 
watered sufficiently often to keep the soil moist. In 
spring, as the leaves fade, less water is given, and when 
they are at rest, the soil is allowed to become dry. 
During summer it is necessary to place the pots of bulbs 
in a dry, sunny place, to ensure their being "ripened," 
for upon this consummation their successful flowering 
depends. Late in summer the flower spikes appear, 
and watering is resumed, though comparatively little 
moisture is needed until leaf growth begins. Few plants 
are more easily grown than Nerines ; they seldom need 
repotting, and will thrive in the same flower-pot for 
several years. They are admirable for the cool or cold 
greenhouse. 

Sow^ing Persian Cyclamen.— There are few more valu- 
able flowers for the greenhouse in early spring than the 
Persian Cyclamen ; the plants need little artificial heat, 
they bloom freely when well grown, and the flowers last 
in beauty a long time. Perhaps their chief recommend- 
ation to the amateur gardener lies in the fact that they 
are such true and long-lived perennials. One has only to 
glance through a list of greenhouse flowers to ascertain 
that many of them need to be renewed every year, either 
by sowing seed or by taking cuttings ; this is a disadvan- 
tage, especially to those whose time and opportunity for 
gardening are limited. The Cyclamen rises superior 
to these failings. The curious rounded root which is 
technically termed " corm " may be grown on from year 
to year, and needs only to be repotted each summer, 
when signs of fresh growth are apparent. I do not know 
the greatest recorded age of a greenhouse Cyclamen (I 
have grown the same root for six years), but I have heard 

30 




ROSE MRS. F. W. VANDERBILT 
(Shades of orange and red) 



October — Looking Forward 

of a hardy Cyclamen that has continued to flourish and 
to flower for forty years ; there seems no reason why 
the Persian variety should not prove equally long lived. 
Most professional gardeners raise Cyclamen from seed 
each season, probably because the plants so obtained are 
most suitable for decorative purposes and yield the finest 
flowers. Though the blooms from old roots may be 
smaller, they are far more numerous. The reader who 
sows Cyclamen seed now to produce flowers in fifteen to 
sixteen mouths' time has the satisfaction of knowing 
that he is raising a stock of plants that will increase in 
size and beauty as the years pass. Equable and cool 
conditions are the chief aids to success ; if the plants are 
subjected to widely fluctuating temperatures and the 
soil to extremes of drought and moisture, then failure is 
Inevitable. 

The seeds are sown thinly in pans of light soil, and the 
seedlings are transferred singly to small flower-pots. In 
repotting it is important so to place the little corm that 
it rests on the surface; if covered with soil it is liable 
to decay. A temperature of SC is suitable during winter, 
and the soil needs only to be kept moderately moist. 
During summer a cool frame is the best place for them. 
When, after the flowers have faded, the leaves begin 
to turn yellow, gradually decreasing supplies of water 
are given, and when the foliage has fallen the soil is 
allowed to get quite dry. The pots containing the roots 
are placed on a sunny shelf in the greenhouse, there 
to remain, without water, until late in July. At that 
season the corms are shaken out of the old soil and 
repotted in fresh flower-pots 3^ inches wide ; a suitable 
compost consists of turf loam with a little leaf soil, old 
dry manure and sand intermixed. The roots are placed 
in a cool frame, the compost being kept slightly moist, 
and fresh growth soon appears. They will make quick 
progress, and in autumn must be repotted in 6-inch pots 
and returned to the greenhouse. This is the orthodox 

31 



Round the Year in the Garden 

routine. Many amateurs plant their Cyclamen in the 
oxien garden in late spring, leave them there throughout 
the summer, and in September lift and repot them. 

The Unhealed Greenhouse. — The cold, or unheated, 
greenhouse is less comprehensive in its scope than the 
heated greenhouse, so far as the number of kinds it can 
accommodate is concerned, yet it has gx'eater possibilities 
at the hands of the unskilled in gardening. There is 
little likelihood of extremes of temperature and atmo- 
spheric conditions, that account for so many failures with 
tender plants. Its possessor cannot, it is true, hope to 
compete against the owner of an artificially heated house 
in midwinter, but with the passing of the early days of 
the New Year, he may, at little expense, have an ex- 
qiiisite garden of blossom. Best of all, he may enjoy the 
flowers in their full fresh beauty, untarnished by rain 
and wind. All that he needs for the bulbs are well- 
drained flower-pots, or pans, some loamy soil and a little 
leaf soil, and sand with which to lighten it. Then the 
whole treasury of spring bulb loveliness is open to him — 
Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissi, Squills, Fritillaries, Crocuses, 
Anemones, Hepaticas, and others too numerous to 
mention, will provide a feast of colour and a succession 
of attractive blossom until the outdoor beds and borders 
take up the running. 

There is no need to enlarge upon the details of cul- 
tivation. It suffices to pot up the bulbs (flower pans are 
preferable to pots for the small ones), and to keep them 
cool and dark until roots have formed freely. Then they 
are brought into the greenhouse and given water when 
it is needed. The unfolding of flower on flower, each 
gaining in strength as the sun rises in the heavens, will 
provide hours and days of gardening joy. All the smaller 
alpines may be laid under tribute, and especially those 
raised from seed sown in early spring, and there are sure 
to be others here and there in the rock garden itself that, 
with care, may be lifted and repotted. Absolutely cool 

3« 



October — Looking Forward 

treatment is necessary, and, whenever the weather allows 
of it, air should be freely admitted to counteract the 
dampness of the atmosphere. 

Various plants are much hardier than they are 
generally thought to be. In a cold greenhouse I have 
grown the dainty lilac-coloured Primula malacoides, the 
golden yellow Primula Kewensis, Calceolaria, Cineraria, 
Persian Cyclamen, Chinese Primula, and even a Lady's 
Slipper Orchid, Cypripedium insigne. Geranium and 
Calceolaria cuttings take no harm there, and roots of 
Tuberous Begonias may be stored in pots of sand or soil. 
I have kept all these flowers throughout the winter 
despite the fact that as much as 5° of frost has been 
registered in the greenhouse. The item of chief impor- 
tance is to keep the atmosphere as dry as possible, and 
to give no more water than is absolutely necessary. 
Although it is interesting to experiment with such flowers 
as are named above, the hardy kinds are really most suit- 
able for the unheated greenhouse. Roses are especially 
valuable, whether in pots or planted out, while such 
hardy annuals as Snapdragon (this is really a perennial, 
though best grown as an annual), Clarkia, Godetia, Stocks, 
etc., are showy in spring and quite easy to grow. 

Roses in Pots. — It is very delightful to be able to 
gather Roses from a greenhouse in April and May, and 
it is not a difficult matter to do so. No artificial warmth 
is necessary ; an unheated greenhouse is suitable. With 
the longer days and increased sunshine of late March 
and April the temperature of the greenhouse rises rapidly, 
and if the ventilators are closed early in the afternoon 
the atmosphere remains warm throughout the night. 
Many amateurs fail with Roses because they attempt 
to grow them in a high temperature before they are well 
established in pots, with the object of obtaining bloom 
in early spring. Roses potted up now should not be 
forced next spring ; if this is attempted not only will the 
plants be weakened but the blooms produced will be of 
D 33 



Round the Year in the Garden 

poor quality. They should remain out of doors, the pots 
plunged to the rims in ashes or leaves, or in a cold frame, 
until February ; they are then pruned and placed in the 
greenhouse. The following winter they can be pruned 
in December and put under glass early in the New Year. 
Strong plants obtained from a nurseryman or dug up 
from the open ground should be potted in pots 6 or 7 
inches mde, all thick, long roots being cut back and the 
growths shortened by about half. Firm jootting is neces- 
sary ; an ideal comjDOst consists of rough turfy soil w^ith 
which one-third rotted manure and some I inch bones are 
mixed. Then the Roses may be grown for several years 
without being repotted, provided they are given a top- 
dressing of similar soil each autumn. A few good varie- 
ties suitable for cultivation in pots are Madame Abel 
Chatenay, Lady Hillingdon, Richmond, Joseph Lowe, 
Prince de Bulgarie, Mrs. John Laing, Pharisaer, G. C. 
Waud, Ulrich Brunner, Mrs. Herbert Stevens and 
W. R. Smith. 

Potting Bulbs. — The simplest and cheapest way of 
obtaining a display of spring flowers in the greenhouse is 
by growing bulbs in pots. It is difficult to fail if one 
begins early, in October, but quite easy to do so if one 
defers the work until late November or December. 
Even then success may be achieved, but it is not so 
certain, and, in gardening, one ought not to impose too 
great a strain upon the flowers one grows. If the bulbs 
are potted during the first two weeks of October and 
placed out of doors beneath ashes for two months, then 
being brought into a frame or greenhouse, it is difficult 
to see how failure is possible, providing the bulbs are 
sound and one has mastered the practice of watering. 
Amateurs frequently ask how often plants should be 
watered, and no one can tell them definitely. The sim- 
plest and the best way is not to give water until the 
soil begins to get dry ; then to fill the pot to the rim 
and to give no more until the soil again shows signs of 

34 



October — Looking Forward 

becoming dry. This interjection, though seemingly- 
malapropos, is not really so, for bulbs are very liable to 
fail if watering is performed injudiciously. Let the soil be 
moistened through as soon as potting is completed ; 
the bulbs will then need no more until they are taken 
out of the ashes. 

Gardening books always take too much for granted, I 
am told, and that is probably true. For instance, I 
am taking for granted that the reader has a supply of 
sifted ashes avilable. If however he has them not, he 
should not, on that account, relinquish the idea of growing 
bulbs in pots. They will form roots quite satisfactorily 
in a frame which is covered with a mat, or at the foot of 
a wall facing west or north, especially if a little soil 
is placed over them. Finally, in the absence of wall 
or frame, one may dig a small trench in the garden, 
place the pots of bulbs therein, and cover them with the 
soil that was taken out. If this method is adopted, a few 
worms will probably find their way into the pots, but 
they can easily be induced to depart by watering the 
bulbs with a little lime water. The two chief details to 
observe in potting bulbs are, not to make the soil very 
firm beneath them (otherwise, as they form roots, they 
will be forced out of the soil), and to mix sand freely 
with the compost ; this ought to consist of turf loam 
with which a little leaf soil is mixed. As to the number 
of bulbs to be accoramodated in pots of varying sizes, this 
is easily determined. Small kinds such as Crocus, Squill, 
Grape Hyacinth and Snowdrop may be put about an 
inch or rather more apart. One Hyacinth bulb can 
be grown in a 5-inch pot or three in a 6-inch pot, and the 
same rule applies to the larger Daffodils. In a 6-inch pot 
one may often plant five, and in a 5-inch pot three 
Tulip bulbs. Bulbs of different varieties of Daffodils, 
Tulips and Hyacinths vary considerably, and one 
must be guided by their size. It is not necessary 
that bulbs grown in flower - pots should be wholly 

35 



Round the Year in the Garden 

covered with soil ; in fact, in dealing with the large 
Daffodils, and Hyacinths, this is not possible ; they can 
usually be covered to the extent of one half, which 
answers quite well. The smaller kinds of bulbs may be 
covered wholly. After all it is chiefly beneath the bulbs 
that one needs to have the bulk of the soil. 

Amateurs often complain that the leaf tips of the 
bulbs tui'n yellow as they progress, and that the general 
appearance of the plants is thereby disfigiu'ed. Incorrect 
watering may account for this, though it is due chiefly, 
I think, to the fact that immediately upon being taken 
out of the ashes or other covering, beneath which they 
were placed to form roots, the bulbs are exposed to 
full light. At that stage the leaf tips are tender and 
easily injured, and therefore for a few days the plants 
ought to be shaded so that the exposure to full light 
may be gradual. A bulb that some may care to grow 
for the sake of curiosity is called Monarch of the East, 
and its botanical name is Amorphoph alius Rivieri. It will 
come into bloom in an ordinary living room if placed 
in a comparatively warm place, such, for example, as 
on the mantelshelf. It cannot be described as handsome, 
for it is something like a greenish-brown Arum Lily. 
When growth begins in spring it is necessary to pot 
the bulb in ordinary potting compost and keep it in 
the greenhouse. 

There is no need to restrict one's selection of bulbs 
for pots to Daffodils, Tulips, Hyacinths and a few 
others equally common, for are there not Spanish Iris, 
Ixia, Sparaxis, Lilium, Anemone, Snowflake, Star of 
Bethlehem and others that have already been referred 
to in this chapter ? Every year one ought to grow a 
few fresh flowers ; this is the way to sustain perennial 
interest in gardening. 

Lilies in Pots. — The favourite Lily for growing in 
flower-pots is the White Trumpet Lily (Lilium longi- 
florum), of which the variety giganteum is finer than 

36 



October — Looking Forward 

the typical kind. The favourite Liliums auratum and 
speciosum are not generally obtainable in October, but 
others available are Henryi, Brownii, testaceum, Krameri 
and tigrinum. There is really no good reason why one 
should continue to grow only the White Trumpet Lily 
because other people grow nothing else. The treatment 
of Lily bulbs is simple, though one should remember that 
some are stem-rooting and others are not. Of those 
mentioned all are stem-rooting except testaceum. 

Provision must be made, therefore, for future top 
dressing, i.e. an addition of soil, so that the stem I'oots 
shall be properly nourished. Six-inch pots are filled 
about half full with sandy loam and leaf soil, on which 
the bulbs are placed, one only in each flower-pot. A 
little more soil is added, sufficient to cover about half 
the bulb. It is a good plan to scatter a little silver sand 
on the soil before placing in the bulbs, so that the latter 
may rest directly on the sand. The pots of bulbs are 
then placed in a frame or greenhouse from which frost 
is excluded, very little water being given, enough 
only to keep the soil slightly moist; there they remain 
until spring. When nicely rooted, they are repotted 
into 7- or 8-inch pots. The stem-rooting sorts must be 
placed low down in the large pots, the space above the 
bulb will be filled in as the roots appear on the stems. 
In repotting those that form roots from the base of 
the bulb only, the pot may be filled at once in the 
ordinary way. 

Growing Bulbs in Fibre. — The moss fibre obtainable 
from nurserymen and others provides an excellent 
medium in which to grow bulbs in bowls and vases in 
the home. Ordinary coco-nut fibre may be used instead, 
if charcoal and crushed oyster shell are mixed with it. 
This method of flower cultivation is one that appeals 
to the fastidious gardener ; the fibre is clean and pleasant 
to handle, and the vessels used are far more attractive 
than ordinary flower pots. One may grow all sorts of 

37 



Round the Year in the Garden 

bulbs in jBbre, though Daffodils are generally most 
satisfactory. Tulips especially are liable to prove dis- 
appointing, because they make so much leaf growth- 
The fibre is moistened before use and the bowls are filled 
to within about an inch of the top ; the biilbs are then 
pressed slightly in the fibre and covered as far as 
possible. Many failures occur owing to the bulbs being 
placed in a dark, stuffy cupboard, and to overwatering. 
The best position is a cool airy, semi-dark room ; there 
the bulbs form roots quickly, and in two months or so 
will be ready for removal to a light window or green- 
house. If the fibre is thoroughly moistened before use, 
little water will be needed until the bulbs are well 
rooted ; it should, however, be examined weekly, for to 
allow it to become dry is to court failure. Perhaps the 
greatest charm attaching to bulb growing in fibre is that 
it may be practised by those possessing little or no 
garden space. The shallow bowls that are sold by bulb 
dealers are admirably adapted to the purpose, though 
one may use any vase or bowl that is of a size suited 
to the bulbs. 

The simplest of all methods of flower growing in 
the home is that by which both soil and fibre are 
dispensed with, water alone being used. Hyacinths 
thrive admirably under this treatment and give little 
trouble. The water should be changed occasionally, or 
a lump of charcoal may be put in to keep it " sweet." 
The bunch-flowered or Polyanthus Narcissi are also 
well sviited to this treatment, or they may be grown 
in bowls filled with pebbles and water. Small pebbles 
must be used, otherwise it is difficult to fix them firmly. 
Even Daffodils may be grown in vases filled with water, 
though they are less reliable than Hyacinths. It is 
necessary to use vases having a wide mouth and a narrow 
neck, so that the base of the bulb is kept just above 
water. Instead of filling the vases with water one may 
use fibre. The possibilities of flower growing in fibre 

38 




< 



\ 





\ October — Looking Forward 

seem unlimited ; in addition to Daffodils, Hyacinths, 
Squills, Crocuses, Grape Hyacinths (Muscari), Snowdrops, 
one may grow even Lily of the Valley and Liliums, while 
Alpine plants have been tried with some success. 

All greenhouse plants that have been out of doors 
or in a frame for the summer, such as Zonal Geranium, 
Cineraria, Cyclamen, Salvia, Primula, Chrysanthemum, 
Indian Azalea, Hydrangea, Perpetual Carnation, etc., 
ought now to be brought under glass. The latter should 
be thoroughly cleansed for their reception, and I have 
found nothing better for the purpose than a preparation 
called Ckibicide, which is to be had from seedsmen. If 
the walls, floor and staging are first thorovighly hosed 
and then syringed with Clubicide, there will be at least 
a clean greenhouse to start with. Greenfly will probably 
soon make its appearance and the simplest way to get 
rid of it is by fumigating with one of the many 
compounds sold for the purpose. It is much easier to 
prevent the spread of greenfly than to destroy it when 
leaves and shoots are badly attacked. 

Heating a Small Greenhouse. — An unheated gi*een- 
house is apt to become rather depressing at this time of 
year, chiefly owing to its chill and damp air and the 
decaying leaves which this occasions. In spring it can 
be made quite gay with spring bulbs in pots and several 
early flowering plants and shrubs ; meanwhile these are 
dormant, and the greenhouse is dull. The installation of 
a simple heating apparatus enables one to grow a greater 
variety of flowers and to keep the greenhouse bright 
until the sunshine awakens spring blossom to life. In 
the case of a large glasshouse, say 20 to 30 feet or more 
long, the only really satisfactory j)lan is to install a boiler 
outside the house and have it connected with a set of hot- 
water pipes, work that is best left to a horticultural 
builder. But for a smaller greenhouse, say from 9 to 15 
feet long, a simpler method suffices. The most primitive 
heating apparatus consists of a paraffin lamp and a series 

39 



Round the Year in the Garden 

of flower pots of varying sizes. These are placed one 
on top of the other until a cone of inverted pots is 
formed. The largest one, which is of course at the 
bottom, is raised upon bricks to enable the lamp to be 
placed underneath ; it is necessary to enlarge the hole 
in its base (now the top) to admit the chimney of the 
lamp. The flower pots soon become warm when the lamjj 
is lit and if several pots are used to form the cone, quite 
a fair warmth is obtained. The drawback of this plan 
is that the fumes from the lamp i*emain in the green- 
house ; they are inimical to plant growth, although they 
do not necessarily do much harm. Great care is needed 
in attending to the lamp. If it is allowed to smoke the 
plants may be seriously damaged. When the lamp is 
lit the wicks ought to be kept low for a few minutes ; 
afterwards they may be turned up without danger of the 
lamp smoking. 

There are other similar methods of increasing the 
temperature by means of warm air; for instance, one may 
use a dujjlex blue-flame lamp alone or place flower pots 
on the top, or a simple apparatus in the shape of a hollow 
zinc frame can be obtained ; the principle is the same. 
The disadvantage of all these methods is the possibility 
of harmful fumes reaching the plants and damaging them. 
If, however, the lamp is carefully tended as already 
explained and the ventilator is kept slightly open at 
night by means of a label, thus allowing of the escape of 
the fumes, very fair results may be expected. One has 
to remember that the plants may be ruined if the lamp 
should smoke badly during the night ; it is necessary 
to see that it is not left too high, for the tendency of the 
flame is to increase. 

It is such a short step from this kind of heating 
apparatus to one that is really satisfactory, that it is 
well worth while to incur some slight extra expenditure 
in the first place. The kind of apparatus in mind, one I 
have used for some years with satisfaction, consists of 

40 



October — Looking Forward 

a set of small zinc pipes joined to an upright con- 
struction that contains a small boiler at the top and a 
space for a lamp at the base. At the side of the boiler 
there is an opening in which a chimney is fixed, the upper 
end passing through a lead pane purposely inserted in the 
roof of the greenhouse. Thus all fumes from the lamp 
pass outside. By means of rubber rings the pipes fit 
closely into sockets near the boiler and the whole 
apparatus can be fixed in an hour. A duplex burner 
paraffin lamp is provided and if this is properly trimmed, 
kept clean and carefully tended, the pipes get warm in 
an hour and become hot soon afterwards. It is possible 
to keep the greenhouse about 10° warmer than the tem- 
perature out of doors. The use of a small iron pipe is 
advised, one end being inserted in a hole at the base 
of the greenhouse and the other end placed near the lamp 
to create a draught and cause the lamp to burn brightly. 
Water is poured into the pipes at the far end of the 
apparatus, and must be replenished from time to time. 
Possessing a heater of this kind one may grow such 
flowers as Pi'imula, Cineraria, Calceolaria, Perpetual Car- 
nation, Roses in pots and many others. 

Lily of the Valley. — In growing Lily of the Valley 
in pots for the greenhouse it is necessary to purchase 
flowering crowns, or, if they are lifted from the home 
garden, to choose only those that are plump and thick. 
Thin, pointed crowns will not bloom. A " crown," it may 
be necessary to explain, is an individual root of Lily of 
the Valley. For potting at this time of ^year ordinary 
flowering crowns are suitable; they are potted firmly 
about an inch apart, in pots of soil, placed in a frame for 
four or five weeks and kept dark. At the end of that 
time they may be brought into the greenhouse. Under 
this method of treatment leaves will appear with the 
flowers. If the roots are potted and placed directly in 
the greenhouse the flowers will appear before the leaves. 
The simplest way to force Lily of the Valley is to purchase 

41 



Round the Year in the Garden 

retarded crowns ; they start into growth in a few days 
when placed in warmth and flowers and leaves come 
together. They will be in bloom in from four to six 
weeks, according to the temperature of the greenhouse. 
Retarded crowns can be grown with great success in 
bowls of fibre in the home. 



In the Fruit Garden 

Gathering and Storing Fruit. — It is not necessary 
to insist upon the importance of gathering hardy fruits 
at the correct time, and of storing them properly ; this 
is obvious when one considers that the year's labour 
in other directions may be nullified by lack of attention 
when the fruits are ripening. There are two simple 
general tests by which one may know whether or not 
an Apple or a Pear is ready to gather. One way of 
ascertaining this is by lifting the fruit gently ; if it then 
becomes detached from its shoot, it may be considered 
to be in a fit state to gather. If, however, it does not 
part readily from the branch it should not be removed. 
Another method is to cut open one or two fruits and 
examine the pips ; if these are black one may be satisfied 
that the fruits are sufficiently ripe ; if the pips are still 
■white, the fruits ought to remain longer on the tree. It 
is necessary to watch the early varieties carefully ; they 
mature qviickly and, if left on the tree too long, become 
over-ripe and are spoilt. Among early Pears are Citron 
de Carmes, Doyenne d'Ete, Jargonelle and Williams' 
Bon Chretien. Of early dessert Apples there are Mr. 
Gladstone, Irish Peach, Devonshire Quarrenden, Beauty 
of Bath, and James Grieve ; among cooking sorts. 
Lord Grosvenor, Lord Suffield, Duchess of Oldenburg, 
Potts's Seedling and Early White Transparent. All these 
are ready for gathering in August or September and 
in those months they ought occasionally to be examined. 
Early Pears will be ready for use a few days after 

42 



October — Looking Forward 

gathering ; early Apples may be kept some weeks if 
desired. 

Although, when dealing with early Apples and Pears, 
it is important not to let them remain on the trees 
too long, it is equally necessary not to gather late 
sorts too soon. If removed before they are ready, the 
fruits are likely to shrivel and will not develop their 
true flavour. Hence the necessity for applying the tests 
already referred to in case of doubt. Amateurs are 
not sufficiently careful in handling fruits ; a bruise may 
not show at the time, but it will inevitably do so 
afterwards, and where the fruit is bruised, there will 
it decay ; when stored it is liable to infect others with 
which it comes in contact. The essential conditions for 
the successful storage of fruit are coolness and moisture. 
Probably the reason why amateurs fail to keep their 
Apples satisfactorily is because they put them away, 
whether they are wet or dry, immediately after gathering. 
They do not appreciate the fact that even if Apples are 
gathered in dry weather, the skins are naturally moist, 
and until this moisture has been lost, they are not in fit 
condition for storing. 

A few days after being gathered Apples go through 
the process known as " sweating " and during this 
time, a cool and airy place is essential. When the 
skins have lost their moisture and become comparatively 
dry it is safe to place the fruits in permanent storage. 
Few amateurs have a specially-built fruit room, and 
have to make use of existing facilities. The worst 
possible place is a dry loft, and this is, unfortunately, 
frequently chosen. Moisture is essential to the proper 
storage of Apples, and in its absence the frviits will 
shrivel. A cellar is preferable to a loft ; failing this, 
a shed or room on the ground floor ought to be selected. 
There the atmosphere is naturally less dry than in a 
room at the top of the house. The fruits may be 
placed on lath shelves or on thoroughly clean straw 

43 



Round the Year in the Garden 

on the floor or in barrels ; they keep better if arranged 
in one layer, but this is not always convenient. If heaps 
have to be made, let them consist of the smaller and 
less valviable fruits. It is necessary to look over the 
Apples frequently, and to remove those that show 
signs of decay. Otherwise many fruits will be spoilt. 
In gathering Pears it is wise to take special care in 
handling them for they are more easily bruised even 
than Apples. They ripen best in rather warmer and 
drier conditions than Apples, and an ordinary room 
is as satisfactory as anywhere in the absence of a 
proper fruit room. 

One's stock of Gooseberries and Red, Black, and 
White Currants may be increased at this season without 
difficulty by means of cuttings. These ought to be 
chosen from firm, hard shoots of the current year's 
growth, preference being given to those from 9 to 12 
inches in length. To form the base of the cutting it 
is necessary to cut immediately beneath a bud or joint. 
In the case of Gooseberries and Red and White Currants 
it is wise to remove all except the four uppermost 
buds so that the bushes shall have stems clear of the 
ground. The cuttings must be inserted firmly in a 
sheltered spot out of doors, only one third of each 
cutting being above the soil surface. 

Grease-banding Fruit Trees.— The caterpillars of 
the winter moth do a great deal of damage to fruit 
trees and other garden plants in spring and early 
svimmer by feeding on the buds, blossoms and leaves, 
and the present is the best time to seek their destruction 
by grease-banding. The object of fastening sticky bands 
round tlie tree stems is to prevent the wingless female 
moths from ascending for the purpose of depositing 
tlieir eggs on the shoots and branches. The old-fashioned 
plan was to place bands of strong brown paper on the 
stems about 2 feet from the ground and to smear them 
with cart grease, and to renew this substance period- 

44 




SNAKEROOT (CIMICIFUGA RACEMOSA)-A HANDSOMi 
lAUGUST FLOWER 



October — Looking Forward 

ically during autumn and winter. The modern way- 
is to use grease-proof instead of brown paper, or 
better still to apply a preparation called Bandite directly 
on the stems; the latter is, of course, more expensive 
than cart grease, but it has the advantage of remaining 
sticky, and therefore effective until spring. 



In the Kitchen Garden 

The chief work in the kitchen garden this month is 
that of storing root crops such as Beetroot, Carrot, 
Salsafy, etc. Most gardeners leave the roots of Parsnip 
and Jerusalem Artichoke in the ground, to be dug as 
required, taking the precaution to cover the ground 
surface with litter at the approach of cold weather. 
Carrot and Beetroot are often stored in sand ; Turnips 
in any frost-proof shed. Beetroot tops should be twisted 
off and Carrot tops cut off about 1 inch above the root. 
Onions keep well in any frost-proof shed, preferably hung 
up in bunches. 

Celery ought to be finally earthed up towards the 
end of the month, care being taken that soil does not 
enter the centres of the plants. When the work is 
finished, only the tops of the Celery ought to be visible. 
Those who have planted Cardoon should now earth up 
this. The leaves are tied together and paper bands are 
placed round them, the final earthing of soil then being 
given. They will be ready for use in November and 
December. 

Rhvxbarb roots, if lifted now and placed in an oi)en 
shed for a week or two, may be forced into growth more 
readily than if lifted and placed directly in warmth. To 
obtain blanched Chicory, roots should be lifted (the 
leaves being cut off) and placed in a box of soil in a 
dark place ; no warmth is required. If the soil is kept 
moist they will soon start into growth. Seakale may be 
lifted for forcing as soon as the leaves have fallen ; the 

45 



Round the Year in the Garden 

roots are put in a box of soil, in a dark and warm 
shed or other place. 

It is important to gather and burn dead and decaying 
leaves, Potato haulm, and rubbish generally ; there is 
no simpler and better means of getting rid of disease 
spores and insect pests and of insuring, to a considerable 
degree, immunity from these troubles another season. 

Those who have a dark shed in which a temperature 
of 55"^ can be maintained may make up a Mushroom bed ; 
the proper material for this is horse manure, which must 
be made into a heap as it becomes available, and be 
turned frequently. At the end of ten days it is used 
for forming the bed, which should be from 12 to 15 inches 
thick after having been trodden firmly. When the tem- 
perature of the bed has declined to 85° the pieces of 
spawn are inserted, 1 inch apart, and 1 inch deep. A 
covering of sifted soil 1 inch in thickness completes the 
work. If the requisite temperature is maintained, and 
the bed is moistened as becomes necessary, Mushrooms 
will appear in about six weeks and continue for about 
two months. 

It is pleasant to be able to gather a few dishes of 
Peas in May, when they are still a luxury, and this may 
be done if four or five seeds are sown in 4-inch flower- 
pots now ; they must be kept quite cool during winter 
and repotted in late March, or planted out of doors early 
in April. 



46 



NOVEMBER 

Autumn Work for Summer Flowers 

A TOUR of the garden at this season of the year is 
apt to prove dull to the unimaginative, but it is 
not without interest to those who realise the value 
of looking forward and making timely preparation 
for the flowers and crops of another year. If one has 
planted with the object of prolonging the charm of 
the garden as late as possible, a few flowers still offer 
greeting. The rose-pink blooms of the Neapolitan 
Cyclamen and the crimson flowers of Cyclamen 
europaeum linger among the beautifully marked leaves ; 
a stray Christmas Rose has anticipated its welcome ; 
the yellow Jasmine has commenced its long season of 
bloom ; the American Witch Hazel (Hamamelis virginica) 
is comparatively gay with yellow blossom ; the Traveller's 
Joy (Clematis Vitalba) is a mass of grey, fluffy bunches, 
among which, if one has trained it over a Japanese 
Briar, the orange-red fruits of the latter glow brightly ; 
Chrysanthemums and autumn Roses still give colour 
to the borders. But it is chiefly to the autumn leaves 
that one must look for colour now — the Japanese 
Maples, the Persian Parrotia, Sumach, Azalea, Berberis, 
and others ; to the fruits — the hips and haws of Roses 
and Thorns, the berries of Rockspray and Pernettya, 
and the Crabs ; and to the stems — of Willow, Dogwood 
and White Bramble. 

Among the Hardy Flowers 

Autumn Tints. — AH trees possess greater or less 
attraction when "autumn's fire burns slowly along the 

47 



Round the Year in the Garden 

woods " ; even tliose that in themselves have few claims 
to beautiful tinting add variety and give increased 
charm to the whole display. Some trees and shrubs 
are especially fascinating in their autumn colouring, 
and their inclusion in any scheme of jjlanting adds 
immensely to the gaiety of the garden while the 
flowers are passing. Probably none surpasses the Iron 
tree (Parrotia persica), of which the leaves show shades 
of crimson, brown and rose; or the Cockspur Thorn 
that glows warmly in the mist of a November afternoon. 
The stately Maidenhair tree (Ginkgo biloba) is exquisite 
in its shroud of pale gold leafage, and the Deciduous 
Cypress (Taxodium distichum) attracts by its colouring 
of soft red-brown. The Azaleas, so brilliant of blossom 
in May and June, again strike a note of rich colour in 
the vivid and varied tinting of their fading leaves, and 
one may say the same of many of the Barberries. Even 
the homely green of Mahonia (Berberis Aquifolium) 
purples at the approach of autumn, though most 
gorgeous of all is Berberis Thunbergii, of which the 
foliage passes in flaming red. The tints of the Japanese 
Maples are especially fine, while of Rhus cotinoides (one 
of the Sumachs) one cannot speak too highly. The June 
berry (Amelanchier Canadensis), the Liquidambar, the 
Witch Hazels, and the Virginian Creepers, all add 
joyous colouring in autumn. In the choice of trees and 
shrubs one is apt to overlook the claims of those that 
add so much to the attractiveness of the garden when 
the flower year is passing. 

All About Roses. — Every garden lover is now 
thinking of planting fresh Roses, or lifting and re- 
planting old ones. There is no better time for the 
work than early autumn. The ideal period may ba 
said to extend from the middle of October to the middle 
of November, though this by no means limits the season 
of planting. I have planted Roses late in December and 
have had an excellent display of blossom the following 

48 



November — Autumn Work for Summer 

summer, and even from Roses planted in March have 
had quite a fair show of bloom within four months. 
One really does not know how accommodating Roses 
may prove to be ; they may adapt themselves admirably 
to conditions thought likely to put too great a strain 
on their good nature, and thrive as well as those given 
orthodox treatment ; yet, on the other hand, they may 
not, and the planter is left bewailing. This advice 
reminds one of that given by the financial papers to 
the reader who wishes to purchase shares ; these may 
rise in the near future, he is told, but, on the other hand, 
they may not ! However, he is wise who gives his Roses 
the treatment that is generally considered to ensure 
success, and the chief article of orthodox Rose faith 
is to plant in earlj'^ autumn. If Roses are well and 
truly planted they may remain undisturbed for years ; 
they w^ill increase in vigour and floriferousness as the 
seasons pass, and finally develop into sturdy bushes that 
seem to hold an indefinite lease of life. Too much 
reliance cannot be placed upon deep digging ; its proper 
performance is worth loads of manure, and its good 
eifects will outlast those of the latter. Most of my 
own Roses were planted six or seven years ago and 
have not been disturbed, but they are in soil that was 
trenched to the depth of 3 feet and manured at the time. 

Although lifting and replanting may be, and certainly 
are, beneficial when Roses are in ill-health, I believe that 
frequent transplantation is wrong. Some growers make 
a practice of replanting their bushes about every three 
years, with the object of imbuing them with fresh youth 
and vigour. But they usually need one season in which 
to recover fully from the disturbance to the roots, and, 
if the work is carried out negligently, they may be so 
weakened as to dwindle and die. 

Making a Rose Bed. — Different kinds of land need 
different treatment. If there is clay, gravel, sand or 
chalk within 18 or 24 inches of the surface, the only hope 
E 49 



Round the Year in the Garden 

of growing good Roses lies in removing some of it, and 
replacing with turf soil, otherwise called loam. There is 
nothing like trenching from 2 to 3 feet deep for improv- 
ing average land. Farmyard manure and basic slag are 
the best manures to add to clayey loam, w^hich is the 
kind of soil found in most gardens. The slag, a slow- 
acting fertiliser, is applied at the rate of 6 oz. to the 
square yard ; this and the yard manure should be mixed 
with the soil beneath the roots, say, from 12 to 15 inches 
deep. Farm manure is now difficult to obtain in many 
districts, and an efficient substitute is found in Wakeley's 
Hop Manure. Spent hops in themselves have little 
manurial value, though they may be mixed with light 
soil to improve its mechanical condition, and are also of 
service for top-dressing in early summer to prevent loss 
of moisture by evaporation. The best material to dig in 
light land is chopped turf, and burnt soil is most useful 
for lightening clayey ground and rendering it more 
workable. 

The question is often asked whether yard manure, 
applied to the Rose beds in autumn, should be left on 
the ground throughout the winter, or forked beneath the 
surface. I believe the latter to be by far the better 
practice. Its presence on the surface of the beds pre- 
vents exposure of the soil to the beneficial action of 
natural agencies, such as frost, rain, snow, and sunshine. 
Soil covered by a mass of manure is bound to remain wet 
and cold, and many roots, especially as they are inactive, 
are likely to perish. 

It is advisable to prepare the ground a week or two 
in advance of planting to allow the soil to settle ; if the 
Roses are put in while the ground is loose, the stems may 
be left high and dry, or buried too deeply, as they have 
been loosely, or firmly, planted. The chief items to bear 
in mind when planting are to cover, with an inch of 
soil, the point at which the Rose was budded on the stock 
(denoted by a kiiob-like swelling) ; to spread out the roots ; 

50 



November — Autumn Work for Summer 

and to tread the soil firmly as it is filled in. It is a 
mistake to fill it all in and then tread it down. Roots 
that are bruised or broken should be cut back as far 
as is necessary, and other thick ones, bare of fibrous 
roots, may be shortened also, as much as one-third being 
cut off. Before the final covering is put on a little bone- 
meal may be scattered in the soil immediately above the 
roots, though it ought not to come in actual contact with 
the latter. If the ground is very wet it becomes a 
difficult matter to work the soil well among the roots ; 
it is therefore wise to have a bushel or two of dry soil 
at hand. As all the shoots of dwarf Roses are best 
pruned hard in the spring following planting, those that 
are more than 12 inches in length may be cut back to 
that height when the bushes are put in, and those of 
climbers ought to be partially shortened. 

The selection of suitable varieties is of the first im- 
portance, for some are so much more satisfactory than 
others. Those who grow for garden display only will, 
judging from my own experience, scarcely find a better 
two dozen than those to be named. 

Good Garden Roses. — Catalogues rarely give the 
bad points of a Rose and, on reading the descriptions, 
one might well imagine them all to be without fault 
or flaw. I do not claim for these that they are i^erfect, 
but when a fault is so pronounced as to call for comment, 
attention is directed to it. I should include Caroline 
Testout and Frau Karl Druschki, because they are not 
really surpassed as a pink and white Rose respectively. 
The blooms of the former are of rather coarse form and 
scentless, but they come freely in summer and autumn. 
Both this and Frau Karl Druschki make splendid stan- 
dards. The latter Rose may be grown as a big bush, 
and lightly pruned, after the first year or two, or the 
long shoots may be pegged down. Margaret is a 
beautiful pink Rose of perfect form. Ophelia is a 
splendid Rose of yellow and rose shades. James Coey is 

51 



Round the Year in the Garden 

a charming sort, deep yellow in the centime, paler towards 
the edges; the blooms are not very large, but they 
come freely in July and again in autumn. General Mac- 
Arthur one must have as a red Rose, and what a splendid 
standard it makes ; the flowers are rather thin. As a 
salmon-pink, Madame Abel Chatenay is unsurpassed ; the 
long stems render the blooms ideal for cutting. Richmond 
is an excellent red variety, especially good in autumn, 
while the exquisite buds and loose blossoms of Betty, 
rose, yellow and cream shades, are indispensable. Prince 
de Bulgarie, blush and j^ellow, is a first rate Rose; it 
grows vigorously and produces big blooms freely on 
strong stems. Joseph Hill, yellow and rose shades, is 
of perfect form, but it has a habit of forming one or two 
strong shoots to the disadvantage of all others. Duchess 
of Wellington, orange-yellow, often with reddish shading, 
is deliciously scented and worth growing for this reason 
alone, though it is altogether good. The Lyon Rose one 
must have for its wonderful colouring, pink and orange 
shades ; the blooms droop, and it is therefore best as 
a standard. Gustav Grunerwald is a distinct bright 
shade of rose-pink, and blooms well throughout the 
season. Pharisaer, having finely formed flowers of 
salmon and blush shades on long stalks, is one of the 
finest decorative Roses. G. C. Waud is a new shade of 
colour, almost vermilion, and the blooms are of good 
form, though the plant is none too vigorous. Jeanne 
Philippe is a charming variety of soft yellow colouring, 
rather thin, but fine for garden display. La Tosca can 
scarcely be omitted from the list, for its salmon-rose 
blooms, though not very large, are freely produced all 
the season. 

All those named, with the exception of Fran Karl 
Druschki (Hybrid Perpetual) and Jeanne Philippe (Tea), 
belong to the Hybrid Tea class, which is characterised 
generally by free growth, continuous flowering, and 
beautiful buds, though in some varieties these soon become 

52 




'«:..■*«•' -^IJW 




November — Autumn Work for Summer 

full-blown flowers. I should complete the two dozen with 
the following : Mrs. John Laiug, pink, and Hugh Dickson, 
red (both Hybrid Perpetiials), the latter a vigorous Rose 
that ought really to be trained on a fence, or pillar, or 
allowed to grow into a big bush; Madame Antoine Mari, 
lilac-rose and white, a perfect little Tea ; Madame Hoste, 
a cream-coloured Tea ; Lady Roberts, orange-yellow, also 
a Tea Rose ; and the clear yellow Pernetiana Rose, Rayon 
d'Or. 

I am conscious that many perhaps equally good 
varieties have been omitted from the list, and I cannot 
resist the temptation to mention a few moi'e particularly 
attractive Roses. One of the best dark crimson Roses 
I have is Louis Van Houtte ; it grows well with me, 
though usually classed as of weak growth. Fisher 
Holmes, an old variety, and H. E. Richardson, a new one, 
are two other good crimson Roses. Mrs. Stewart Clark 
is similar to Hugh Dickson in vigour of growth and size 
of bloom, but the colour is rose-pink ; it is very showy 
and a large bush makes a splendid display. Its faults 
are that the flowers are scentless (a fault, alas ! that can 
be urged against many modern Roses) and they appear 
only in summer. Avoca is a beautiful crimson Rose, 
fragrant, and of excellent form ; it is vigorous and may 
be grown as a pillar, or pegged down to form a bush ; 
it blooms scarcely at all in autumn. Commandant Felix 
Faure is another fine Rose of dark colouring, crimson 
with blackish shading, but it does not flower much in 
autumn. Madame Leon Pain, silvery rose, is one of the 
best garden varieties, vigorous and almost always in 
bloom. Madame Melanie Soupert is charming, with 
flowers of yellow and peach shades, but it seems to need 
a warm position, and I have found it to be only 
moderately free of bloom. Lady Hillingdon, with long 
pointed blooms of orange-yellow, is best, I think, as a 
standard and should be given a warm position. Other 
Roses I can recommend are Lady Waterlow, pale rose, 

53 



Round the Year in the Garden 

vigorous ; Grace Darling, cream and rose, almost always 
in bloom ; Lieutenant Chaure, red ; Mrs. Amy Hammond, 
pale amber ; Rosomaue Narcisse Thomas, reddish apricot ; 
Comtesse du Cay la, nasturtium red and yellow, a dainty 
little Rose, always in bloom ; Arthur R. Goodwin, bronze 
and yellow shades, makes a delightful standard ; W. R- 
Smith, cream white shaded with pink, bears beautiful 
blooms on long stems that droop ; Mrs. Sophia Neate, 
salmon-pink, a Tea Rose of more than usual vigour ; Mrs. 
Herbert Stevens, white, a splendid Tea with faint rose 
shading ; Hugo Roller, Tea, pale lemon with rose shading, 
not very vigorous, but altogether delightful ; Harry Kirk, 
a good yellow Tea ; Anna Olivier, rose and buff. Tea ; 
G. Nabonnand, pale rose and yellow. Tea ; Natalie Bottner, 
cream-yellow ; Mrs. Alfred Tate, reddish copper shades ; 
Mrs. David McKee, cream ; Melody, saffron - yellow ; 
Madame Edouard Herriot, coral-red, Pernetiana ; Chrissie 
McKellar, yellow and rose shades. All are Hybrid Teas 
unless otherwise described. 

A few climbers that appeal especially to me are 
Tausendschon, rose ; Rubin, rose-red ; Shower of Gold, 
little yellow buds and whitish flowers ; Alberic Barbier, 
yellow bvids of perfect form and white flowers; Trier, 
single, white, flowers throughout the summer : Zephiriue 
Drouhin, the Thornless Rose, rose-coloured, splendid for 
a fence, blooms all summer ; Noella Nabonnand, crimson ; 
Ren6 Andre, salmon, rose and yellow. There are, of 
course, very many others worthy of space in a garden, 
such for example as Dorothy Perkins, pink ; Hiawatha, 
single, crimson ; Lady Godiva, pale pink ; American Pillar, 
large single, pink blossoms; Blush Rambler, apple-blossom 
colour ; Edmond Proust, carmine and bronze shades ; 
Sander's White, perhaps the best of the white ramblers ; 
H6l6ne, pale rose with mauve tinge ; Joseph Billiard, deep 
rose and yellow, single ; Minnehaha, rose colour ; Reve 
d'Or, yellow; Tea Rambler, copper and pink. 

Perpetual Flowering Climbing Roses.— Rambler 

54 



November — Autumn Work for Summer 

Roses have been so consistently lauded during recent 
years and so widely planted that one is liable to overlook 
the claims of less vigorous climbing Roses which have 
a long season of bloom. In a garden of moderate size the 
wichuraiana and multiflora Roses are somewhat em- 
barrassing owing to their rampant growth, and it is only 
by allowing them to spread as far as they will that one 
can have these Roses at their best. An Alberic Barbier, 
for instance, that I have covers between 30 and 40 feet 
of fencing, and I am inclined to grudge so much space 
to one variety, because by planting other and less 
rampant sorts I might add greater variety, and con- 
sequently gain greater pleasure. The Roses that seem 
to me to be unduly neglected are the climbing Teas and 
Hybrid Teas particularly. It is true they do not produce 
such a gorgeous display in high summer as the ramblers, 
but, on the other hand, their buds are often of perfect 
form, and one may gather flowers throughout summer 
and early autumn. They are suitable for walls and for 
training up poles and pillars 6 to 8 feet high, and it is 
possible to accommodate quite a fair number in com- 
paratively limited space. A few charming Roses of this 
type are Florence H. Veitch, crimson ; Climbing Liberty, 
red ; Hugh Dickson, red ; Lady Waterlow, rose ; Climbing 
Paul Lede, yellow and rose ; Climbing Mrs. W. J. Grant, 
rose-pink ; Climbing Lady Ashto wn, pale rose ; Climbing 
Caroline Testout, pink ; Avoca, crimson ; Noella Nabon- 
nand, crimson ; Climbing White Maman Cochet ; Climbing 
Marquise de Sinety, yellow and red shades; Madame 
Hector Leuilliot, yellow and orange. It is not wise to 
prune Roses of this kind severely in March following 
planting ; one should shorten the stems to sound wood 
then, and in future years cut out one or two of the 
old stems annually to encourage fresh growth from the 
base. 

Old-World Roses. — There are still some garden 
lovers who treasure the old-world Roses, it may be for 

55 



Round the Year in the Garden 

their associations, for their fragrance, or for the mere 
pleasure of possessing them. It must be confessed that 
many of them have no real worth as garden flowers, 
if one judges them in comparison with modern varieties. 
Nevertheless, it is a melancholy thought that such flower 
links with the past are wearing so thin that the final 
breaking cannot be far distant. Those most likely to 
persist are the fragrant ones. The fault of old-world 
sorts, as Roses are appraised nowadays, lies in their 
being summer-flowering only, and doubtless, for this 
reason, they will never again be planted freely. For 
delicious Rose perfume, the old Cabbage or Provence Rose 
is not surpassed, and those who value this quality above 
all others in Roses should plant a bush or two. Both 
this and the Moss Rose, which is a near relation, are 
hardy and long-lived, especially when raised from cuttings, 
and thus grown as own-root Roses. Moss and Provence 
Roses soon degenerate in the hands of unskilled growers, 
forming loose, ungainly bushes, bare at the base and full 
of weakly shoots at the top. The reason is not far to 
seek ; it is found in injudicious pruning. In autumn, old, 
weakly, worn-out shoots should be removed and, in 
spring, the remaining growths ought to be fairly hard 
pruned. Then the x^lants make sturdier growth, give 
better blooms and are altogether more satisfactory. 

The old York and Lancaster Rose, striped red and 
blush, is a variety of the Persian Damask, now seldom 
grown. More commonly met with under the same name 
is Rosa Mundi, a handsome flower, striped crimson and 
white ; it is not a Damask at all, but a variety of Rosa 
gallica, the old French Rose. Of the real Damask Roses 
the Old Red is best worth garden space. It associates 
charmingly with the Madonna Lily ; both are in full beauty 
at the same time, and, if freely grouped together, provide 
a delightful display of old-world flowers. The useless 
shoots should be cut away in late summer or autumn, and 
in spring the remaining growths need only be shortened 

56 



November — Autumn Work for Summer 

slightly, say, by about one-third. Some of the varieties 
of Rosa alba (Maiden's Blush Roses they are generally 
called) are well worthy of inclusion in a collection of 
Roses of other days. They grow strongly and bloom 
freely in their summer season. Maiden's Blush, Celeste, 
and Felicite Parmentier, all pink, are the best. The 
Hybrid China Roses are now represented chiefly by that 
fine climbing variety, Blairii No. 2, which bears pale pink 
blossoms freely and is still often to be seen in gardens. 
Old, weakly stems need to be cut out when the flowering 
season is over. The Thornless Rose, Zephirine Drouhin, 
belonging to the Bourbon class, is still one of the most 
valued of garden Roses ; it grows well and bears fragrant 
rose-coloured blooms throughout summer and autumn. 
Souvenir de la Malmaison is another Bourbon Rose 
met with in gardens, but I could never get it to flower 
satisfactorily ; it seems to need an unusually warm 
position. Still another valuable variety is called Her- 
mosa or Armosa ; this is very much like a China Rose, 
and soon develops into a small bush that blossoms freely 
all the summer and autumn. The pruning of the 
Bourbon Roses takes the form chiefly of thinning out 
weakly stems in autumn and slightly shortening the 
remaining ones in spring. 

There are several valuable climbing varieties among 
the old-world Roses. Aimee Vibert has bold leafage that 
is practically evergreen, and big, loose bunches of white 
flowers that are in full beauty in August. It has the 
advantage of thriving satisfactorily in the shade. I have 
a plant on a fence facing north that, in company with 
Conrad F. Meyer (a splendid Japanese Briar, bearing big 
pink, fragrant flowers in May and June), gives quite 
an air of cheerfulness not common to a sunless fence. 
Bennett's Seedling, one of the Ayrshire Roses, blooms 
with remarkable freedom, the leaves being hidden by 
a multitude of small white flowers. Felicity Perpetvie, 
or Seven Sisters Rose, which belongs to the Evergreen 

57 



Round the Year in the Garden 

or Sempervirens class, is equally floriferous, and its white, 
rosette-like blossoms have a curious musky odour. The 
only pruning these old-fashioned climbers require is that 
given by cutting out weakly stems when the flowering 
season is past, and, in spring, shortening the side shoots 
on the remaining branches. 

The Mixed Flower Border. — The mixed border of 
hardy flowers is likely to arouse delight or to produce 
despair, according as one's expectations are on a level 
with, or soar beyond the possibilities of the scheme of 
planting. The average flower gardener demands a 
border that shall remain bright from spring until 
autumn, though this is not easily provided. There 
must be a compromise unless, as in public parks and 
gardens, where the borders are always gay, there is a 
reserve plot which may be drawn upon to make good 
all blanks. With this assistance it is possible to keep 
a flower border attractive for months together ; Avithout 
it, one must be content with a brave show in the height 
of summer, preceded by an accumulative progression 
of bloom, and followed by a gradual lessening of the 
display. After all, this is an arrangement following 
Nature's scheme, and is likely to give the greatest 
pleasure. The gardener who is content that his border 
shall progress Tvith the seasons to a full show of blossom 
at midsummer, and wane at the approach of the dog 
days, may fulfil his aspirations without great difficulty. 
He who demands a full dress display in spring, in 
summer, and in autumn, must open his pocket to 
satisfy his soul, and provide not one border only, but 
three borders. When the fading blooms of one give 
rise to annoyance, he may turn to the next with 
pleasurable anticipation. The arrangement of a border 
that shall be bright at one season only is not a serious 
matter; a far greater tax is put upon the ingenuity of 
the gardener when he is called upon to provide a 
succession of bloom in one and the same border. There 

5S 



November — Autumn Work for Summer 

must be skilful inter-grouping of the flowers of different 
seasons, so that the blanks shall be as little obtrusive 
as possible. If he 'wishes to introduce a system of 
colour - grouping, his difficulties will be enhanced, for 
he is faced with the problem of arranging for a blue 
flower to follow a blue one, a yellow to follow a yellow, 
and so on. Generally, I think, a mixed border, especially 
for the amateur of limited leisure, and possessed of only 
a moderate knowledge of hardy flowers, is most satis- 
factory — a border in which no strict colour scheme is 
followed. It is easier to avoid discords than it is to 
create harmonious groups. 

Problem of the Bulbs. — The present is the best 
time to replant and rearrange the hardy flower border, 
and reference to some of the problems that may confront 
the planter will, at least, have the advantage of being 
seasonable. One must make free use of bulbs, especially 
of Daffodils and May - flowering Tulips. They are 
undoubtedly a nuisance after the blossoming season 
is past, but this is one of the unavoidable drawbacks 
of the three seasons border. Those having a reserve 
plot, in which the bulbs, after they have bloomed, 
may be planted to complete their development, possess 
an advantage. But there is no reason why Daffodils 
and May Tulips should not be included in the scheme 
of planting, even though the reserve plot is wanting. 
Most people make the mistake of planting them all 
over the border — at the back, in the middle and towards 
the front. It must be confessed that, thus dis. 
posed, they provide a more charming show while in 
bloom, but afterwards they cause no end of bother. 
The iDlan I recommend is to group them towards the 
back of the border, among strong-growing, late-flowering 
plants such as Michaelmas Daisies, Helenium, Aconitum 
or Monkshood, and Golden Rod. These form vigorous 
tufts, which, as the spring advances, hide the decaying 
leaves of the bulbs. It is, of course, fatal to a successful 

59 



Round the Year in the Garden 

blossoming the following season to cut off the foliage 
while it is still green, though much may be done to 
keep the bulbs neat by periodically removing the 
unsightly portions. 

Some few plants, if not actually attractive when 
out of flower, scarcely detract from the appearance of 
the border. Chief among them are Flag Iris, Heuchera 
or Alum root, Potentilla, Geum, Gypsophila, Thalictrum 
or Meadow Rue, Jacob's Ladder or Polemonium, the old 
Scarlet Lychnis, Lavender and Rosemary, Spiraea 
Ulmaria (Meadow Sweet), Pinks and Thrift. Of those 
that flower later, and are therefore fresh and attractive 
the greater part of the season, one may name Phlox, 
Globe Thistle or Echinops, Sea Holly or Eryngium, Tiger 
Lily (Lilium tigrinum), Japanese Lily (Lilium speciosum)j 
Gladiolus, Monkshood or Aconitum, Cimicifuga or Snake- 
root, Helenium, Veronica virginica, Sedum spectabile 
or Japanese Stonecrop, Sea Lavender (Statice latifolia), 
and all the autumn flowers, such, for example, as 
Michaelmas Daisy, Helianthus or Sunflower, Rudbeckia 
or Coneflower, Artemisia lactiflora or Wormwood, and 
others. These should be planted among the Lupins, 
Oriental Poppies, Larkspurs, Pyrethrums, and other 
early summer blooms, so that the succession of flowers 
may be general and the untidiness of fading plants be 
hidden as far as possible. 

Shrubs in the Flower Border. — As has been pointed 
out, it is scarcely possible by one planting alone to have 
masses of colour for weeks together ; such borders exist 
only on the artist's canvas or in gardens where, as soon 
as one prominent group has lost its beauty, it is replaced 
or hidden by plants grown in pots, or on a reserve border, 
for the purpose. A further help in preserving the charm 
and comparative tidiness of the border throughout the 
season is found in the inclusion of a few shrubs. They 
are, if not attractive, at least pleasant to look upon 
when their flowering time has passed. Some of them 

60 



PEAR LOUISE BONNE OF JERSEY 




PEAR BEURRE DIEL 







\! 







November — Autumn Work for Summer 

have a second period of beauty when the foliage 
becomes autumn-tinted. Something can be done to 
prevent a rapid collapse from splendour to untidiness 
by choosing plants that continue presentable and by 
cutting down those that do not, such, for example, as 
Lupin and Delphinium, to induce them to produce 
fresh growth. An alternative and an excellent plan is 
to intermingle a few of the many charming Jackmani 
Clematis ; their slender shoots cover the stems of the 
early-flowering herbaceous plants, and in late summer 
will spangle them with delightful blossom. Although 
it is against the accepted canons of gardening to do so, 
one might here and there introduce a few vigorous 
perpetual - flowering Roses. By thus adding greater 
variety and some stability of form as provided by 
shrubby growth, the border loses nothing in pictvu-- 
esqueness, and is more generally cheerful throughout 
a longer period. Of shrubs one might choose, among 
others, a few Deutzias and early - flowering Spiraeas, 
Berberis, Olearia Haastii (the Daisy bush), dwarf kinds 
of Mock Orange, a few bushes of Azalea, here and there 
a standard of ornamental Cherry or Plum, and occasional 
Lilac and flowering Currant towards the back of the 
border. Having the shrub groups in position, one can 
so arrange the offending herbaceous plants that their 
withering stems and yellowing leaves shall be hidden. 

The occasion of replanting is also opportune for 
dividing tufts that may have grown too big or have 
become weakly ; the outer pieces only should be replanted, 
the inner and older parts being thrown away. Pro- 
bably many of the failures with hardy plants are due 
either to planting too deeply or to neglect to make the 
soil firm about the roots. Choice herbaceous plants 
are liable to decay during the winter if planted deeply. 
As a general rule one might advise that the uppermost 
roots should not be covered with more than 2 inches 
of soil. 

6i 



Round the Year in the Garden 

Nothing is more disappointing, or more disastrous to 
the display, than to find that some unusually fine clump 
fails to reappear owing to the excessive wet and cold of 
winter. It is wise, therefore, to take precautions now, 
and to cover with a heap of ashes or bracken the clumps 
of Pyrethrum, Scabious, Gaillardia and others that 
experience has proved to be of doubtful hardiness in 
one's district. 

Flower Borders of One Colour. — The fashion of 
planting a border with flowers of one colour finds many 
devotees, but the practice is scarcely to be recommended 
to those having gardens of limited extent. One is apt, 
for example, to tire of a white border before the summer 
is over, unless the garden contains borders of colour, as 
of blue, pink, or yellow (though the last is scarcely -worth 
planting, for of yelloAV one tires soonest), and these, of 
course, necessitate not only the use of a considerable 
area of grol^nd, but involve much careful scheming. 

Probably the most satisfactory of all borders for the 
average garden is that in which a full colour scheme is 
planned, beginning with white, working up through grey, 
blue, and pink, to rose, yellow, orange, and scarlet. Many 
charming effects, however, are obtained when planting is 
practised without regard to strict colour arrangement, 
providing the plants are in bold, wide groups, and 
obviously discordant associations are avoided. 

Still another way is open to those who prefer large 
masses of one colour, by arranging a blue, white, and 
pink border all in one. One begins with the pale blues, 
and works up to the deep blues, then follows with the 
\vhites, and completes the scheme with groups of pink 
flowers. The difficulty of grouping large masses of one 
colour is to find plants that will give a satisfactory and 
continued display. It is a great mistake to plant in 
formal groups, those of irregular formation are best. In 
planting a blue, white, and pink border, for instance, 
there should not be three well-defined blocks of colour; 

63 



November — Autumn Work for Summer 

the blue flowers might be continued for some distance 
behind the white ones, those of pink shades in front of 
them. One should aim at disposing the plants in drifts, 
rather than in set groups. 

A White Border. — One can begin with Snowdrops, 
white Crocuses, Christmas and Lenten Roses, the Star- 
flower (Triteleia), and white Hepatica, and continue the 
spring display with Daisies, Narcissi, double and single 
Arabis, Wood Anemone (nemorosa),. Erica carnea alba, 
and Primula denticulata alba. In early summer 
come white Tulips and Irises, Eremurus himalaicus, 
evergreen Candytuft, followed by Pyrethrums, Achillea 
The Pearl, white Violas, Sidalcea Candida, Spiraeas Aruncus 
and filipendula, white Paeonies, and Oriental Poppies, 
white Flax (Linum perenne album), white Foxgloves, 
white Rocket, Gypsophila, Delphinium, Shasta Daisies, 
Centaurea montana alba. Campanulas persicifolia alba, 
pyramidalis alba, and lactiflora alba. Then come Astilbe 
japonica, white Hollyhocks, Phlox Fiancee, Mrs. Jenkins, 
and Sylphide, Gladioli in light shades, Liliums speciosum 
album, auratum, and longiflorum, Everlasting Pea White 
Pearl, Galtonia candicans, Japanese Anemone, white 
Chrysanthemums, Cimicifuga racemosa, and others, 
Michaelmas Daisies, and Pyrethrum uliginosum. For 
edging one may choose from double and single Arabis, 
Mossy Saxifrage, Cerastium, white Pinks, and white 
Thrift. Of annuals there are white Snapdragons, white 
Rose Mallow (Lavatera), Sweet Alyssum, Asters, Stocks, 
white Cornflowers, white Tobacco, Collinsia candidissima, 
annual Lupins, Candytuft, Virginian Stock, Matricaria 
eximia flore pleno, white Nemophila, and Mignonette. 

A Blue Border. — Among flowers of blue shades there 
are many that open in early spring, such, for example, 
as Scilla, Chionodoxa, Anemone apennina, robinsoniana, 
blanda and Hepatica, Hyacinthus azureus, and Grape 
Hyacinths. These might be followed by some of the 
Darwin Tulips of lavender shades, Mertensia sibirica, 

63 



Round the Year in the Garden 

Primula denticulata, Aquilegia, Flag Irises, Forget-me-not, 
Lupin, Anclitisa, Phlox divaricata, Polemonium Richard- 
son!, Aster subcoeruleus, Delphinium in variety, Geranium 
ibericum, Platycodon Mariesi, Echinops ritro, Campanulas 
carpatica, persicifolia, glomerata, pyramidalis, and lacti- 
flora, Eryngium oliverianum and others, Catananche 
coerulea, Echium vulgare, Centaurea montana, Linums 
perenne and narbonense, Jasione perenne, Statice latifolia, 
Aconitum napellus and others, Salvia virgata nemorosa 
and patens, Veronica longifolia and spicata, Viola Maggie 
Mott, Phlox Le Mahdi, Iris and Paul Bert, Gladiolus Blue 
Jay, Tradescantia virginica, Michaelmas Daisies acris, 
araellus, bessarabicus, Beauty of Colwall, Edith Gibbs, 
and others. For edging one might have Aubrietia del- 
toidea and the variety Lavender, and, if it succeeds, the 
exquisite Gentiana acaulis. Then of annuals to fill vacant 
spaces there are Commelina coelestis, Nemophila insignis. 
Love-in-a-mist, Asperula azurea setosa. Asters, Corn- 
flowers, Sweet Peas Helen Pierce and Lord Nelson Spencer, 
annual Lupin and Larkspur, the blue Nemesia, Phacelia 
campanularia, the Clary (Salvia horminum), and Whit- 
lavia grandiflora, while the spreading blue bedding 
Lobelia is not to be despised for use as a groundwork or 
an edging. 

A Pink Border. — There are not enough true pink 
flowers to go round, so that rose shades must be utilised. 
Earliest of all are the Hepaticas, followed by Hyacinths 
and Tulips, the Lyre flower (Dicentra spectabilis). Moss 
Pink (Phlox subulata), Primula frondosa. Daisies, Mossy 
Saxifrage Guildford Seedling and others, pink Bluebells, 
Aubrietias Fire King and Bridesmaid. Then come Pyre- 
thrums, pink Lupin, Thrift, Pinks, Carnations, Sidalcea 
Listeri, Malva moschata. Valerian, pink Canterbury Bells, 
Geranium Endressi, Paeonies, Oriental Poppies, Spiraeas 
Apple Blossom and Queen Alexandra, Astilbe Ceres and 
others, Thalictrum aquilegifolium, pink Hollyhocks, Fox- 
gloves, Heuchera Edghill variety and others. Loosestrife, 

64 



November — Autumn Work for Summer 

Lychnis viscaria splendens, Phlox in variety, notably 
Mrs. Oliver and Paul Fliche, pink Gladioli, Japanese 
Anemones, pink Chrysanthemums, Michaelmas Daisies 
Perry's Favourite and Edna Mercia. Among annuals 
there is plenty of choice in pink Sweet Peas — e.g. Countess 
Spencer, Princess Victoria, Mrs. Hardcastle Sykes, and 
Hercules ; then there are, of course, Stocks, Asters, Snap- 
dragons, Clarkia, Godetia, Rose Mallow, the lovely rose- 
coloured Larkspur, Gypsophila elegans, Shirley and other 
Poppies, and Statice Suworowi. 

May-flowering Tulips. — Probably no group of garden 
flowers proves so valuable to the gardener, or blooms 
at such an opportune moment, as the May-flowering 
Tulips. They have most of the attributes of a perfect 
flower; they ai-e tall and stately, on strong stems, their 
colouring varies from bizarre to the most exquisite, and 
they last comparatively long in beauty. There are 
two chief groups of May-flowering Tulips, the Cottage 
and Darwin varieties. The former are so called because 
those from which the modern highly-developed sorts 
have been evolved were grown years ago in English 
cottage gardens, whence they were rescued from 
obscurity by the florists -and made use of in the pro- 
duction of the present race of flowers. For the original 
Darwin Tulips we were indebted to a firm of Dutch bulb 
growers. Both these groups come into blossom when 
there is a blank in the succession of hardy flowers ; the last 
of the Daffodils and other flowers of spring have faded, 
and those of early summer have not yet made their (Mbut ; 
the Lilies, Larkspurs and Lupins are still in bud when 
the last of the May Tulips loses its petals. No garden 
can dispense with them. Formerly the distinctive 
characters of each group were well marked, but to 
such an extent has cross-breeding been carried, that it 
is not easy to classify some of the modern varieties. 
The chief points of distinction are these : the blooms of 
the Darwin Tulips are cup-shaped, rather shallow and 
p 65 



Round the Year in the Garden 

round, aud their colouring is often unusual ; bronze, purple, 
lilac-grey, white, dark crimson and rose are the shades 
chiefly represented. The flowers of the Cottage Tulip 
are of more graceful outline, long, rather narrow, and 
tapering, and the colouring brilliant — chiefly scarlet, 
orange-red, yellow, pink, or allied tints. 

Early November is an ideal time to plant the bulbs of 
these splendid flowers. It is worth while to prepare the 
ground well for them because, despite the advice of the 
Tulip specialist to lift the bulbs every season, they may 
be left undisturbed for several years. If yard maniire is 
dug in the ground it should be put at least 12 inches 
deep, for it is a mistake to allow the bulbs to come into 
contact with it. Bone meal applied at the rate of 3 or 4 
ozs. to the square yard, 8 or 10 inches deep, is an excellent 
fertiliser to use. Deep planting is essential, and the top 
of the bulb should be not less than 4 inches beneath the 
soil. May-flowering Tulips sometimes fail owing to the 
attacks of a fungus, the effects of which are commonly 
referred to as "fire," and are seen in disfigured and, in 
a bad attack, ruined foliage. The use of sulphur at 
planting time seems to be the only preventive that has 
been recommended. Nothing can be done to cure the 
malady when the leaves become affected in spring, 
although spraying wtih Bordeaux mixture is advised. 
The bulbs ought not to be grown in the same soil for two 
or three years after having been attacked by this 
disease. 

There are innumerable varieties of both Darwin and 
Cottage Tulips. A few of the finest of the former are 
Harry Veitch, dark crimson ; Margaret, pink ; Isis, red ; 
Rev. H. Ewbank, heliotrope-grey; Pride of Haarlem, 
bright carmine ; Clara Butt, rose ; Dream, rosy - helio- 
trope; Europe, red; Loveliness, rose. Among Cottage 
Tulips one should have Inglescombe Pink ; Mrs. Moon, 
yellow ; Primrose Beauty, cream -yellow ; The Faun, rose 
and fawn ; Yellowhammer, yellow ; Columbus, yellow 

66 



November — Autumn Work for Summer 

and red ; La Merveille, old rose and buff ; Orange Globe, 
red and rose. 

There are some wonderful flowers among the Tulip 
species, or wild types of other countries. Tulipa Greigi, 
for instance, has very large flowers of orange and scarlet 
colouring ; kaufmaniana is cream - coloured ; ixioides, 
yellow ; gesneriana kitea, rich yellow ; elegans, red- 
crimson ; vitellina, primrose ; Sprengeri, orange - red ; 
sylvestris, yellow ; macrospeila, crimson - red. Unfor- 
tunately the bulbs of the species and named varieties of 
May-flowei-ing Tulips are somewhat expensive, but the 
latter may be bought in mixture at a much cheaper 
rate. 

Worms on the Lawn. — The care of the lawn in 
winter is of some importance, and attention at this 
season helps towards the i^roduction of a close, clean 
sward in summer. While the ground is very wet and, 
therefore, soft, the best thing one can do is to keep off 
the lawn ; at other times much good is accomplished 
by sweeping and rolling frequently. Worms are a great 
nuisance, and if watering with lime water does not get 
rid of them, recourse may be had to one of the special 
worm killers of which there are now several on sale. 
The effect on the worms is remarkable. I have seen 
astonishing results achieved by even one dressing. The 
powder was applied in the morning of a wet day, and 
by the following afternoon several barrow loads of 
worms were swept up. The worm killer should be 
scattered on the surface during rainy weather so that 
it may be washed in quickly ; it then takes effect at once. 
One should not lose sight of the fact that the action 
of worms in the soil is entirely beneficial, so far as 
the needs of plants are concerned. In their numbers 
they move a great deal of soil, thus cultivating and 
aerating it to a considerable degree. It is only owing 
to the nuisance caused by worm casts on the surface 
that greenkeepers and gardeners wish to get rid of 

67 



Round the Year in the Garden 

tliem, but so far as the welfare of the lawn is concerned 
it is probable that just as much harm as good is done. 
The casts on golf greens are more than usually exasper- 
ating, because the greens are in constant vise throughout 
the year. Garden lawns, however, are not very tempting 
to walk upon in winter and, when practicable, it is, I 
think, far better not to destroy worms in this wholesale 
fashion, but to content oneself with sweeping off the 
casts with the garden besom, for the very act of doing 
so benefits the grass. 

Weeds on the Lawn. — The subject of weeds on the 
lawn is, alas ! one of perennial interest, for they are always 
with us. A weed has been defined as a plant in the 
wrong place, and this is certainly true of those that 
infest the lawn. Weeds may be divided into two 
classes, tap-rooted and fibrous-rooted. The former have 
strong roots that descend deeply ; common examples are 
Dandelion, Plantain and Dock. These, if not the most 
difficult to get rid of, occasion the greatest labour, 
for dressings of various kinds that may be considered 
likely to destroy shallow-rooting weeds have little real 
effect upon them. The simplest and the best remedy, 
short of digging them out by means of a handfork, is 
to pierce the centre of each one with a pointed stick, 
having a little notch at the end, that has been dipped 
in some poisonous liquid, such as sulphuric acid. The 
Buttercups (particularly Ranunculus repens), though not 
accurately described as tap-rooted, are most efficiently 
dealt with in the same way. The best time to do this 
work is during late autumn or winter, when the weeds are 
comparatively dormant and their recuperative powers 
are at their lowest. Lawn sand may also be applied for 
their destruction, though it is most effective in the case of 
Daisies. 

The fibrous-rooted weeds, those of which the roots 
are near the surface, are many and varied, and they 
are probably more harmful, if less unsightly, than the 

68 



November — Autumn Work for Summer 

vigorous tap-rooted kinds, since tliey spread quickly, 
smothering the surrounding grass and, if not destroyed, 
eventually taking its place. Chief among fibrous-rooted 
weeds are Chickweed, Pearlwort and Daisy, while some- 
times Selfheal (Prunella) is troublesome. Some of these 
may, to a considerable extent, be removed by means of an 
iron-toothed rake. Subsequently there is nothing better 
than a dressing of lawn sand now and again in early 
April ; this is particularly useful in getting rid of Daisies. 
Its effect is to turn the grass brown, but it quickly 
recovers in spring and early summer. Weeds rarely 
spread if the lawn is regularly manvired, as it too seldom 
is, for it is only when the grass becomes thin and weakly 
that weeds are able to make headway. An excellent 
autumn dressing for the lawn consists of a mixture of 5 
parts bonemeal and 1 part kainit or wood ashes, applied 
at the rate of 2 oz. per square yard. Some of the 
quick-acting, proprietary fertilisers, such as guano 
and Clay's Fertilizer, are excellent for application in 
spring and early summer, and have a marked effect 
on the growth of the grass. Lawn sand may be 
made by mixing ^ lb. of sulphate of iron (copperas), 
1| lb. of sulphate of ammonia and 12 lbs. of sand. The 
chemicals must be ground to a powder and thoroughly 
mixed with the sand. 

Moss on the Lawn. — The presence of moss on the 
lawn indicates either that the ground needs draining or 
that the soil is poor. The moss should be raked off with 
an iron-toothed rake, the places then being dressed 
with sulphate of iron, ^ oz. per square yard, and finally 
given a light covering of sifted soil with which lime and 
wood ashes to the extent of one-fourth of the whole have 
been mixed. If in spring bare patches show, seed must 
be sown there. Sand forms a useful dressing for the 
lawn in autumn, especially on heavy land. Basic slag is 
often recommended, though its use encourages the spread 
of clover. The best way to get rid of clover is to use 

69 



Round the Year in the Garden 

sulphate of ammonia aud nitrate of soda with sifted 
soil in spring. 

Fairy Rings. — These are sometimes a nuisance on the 
lawn ; they are due to fungi which, as they decay, enrich 
the soil and cause it to assume a deep green colour. 
Probably the only certain way to get rid of them is to 
dig out the rings and to fill the holes with fresh soil, first 
scattering in a little lime or sulphate of iron. Care should 
be taken to remove a few inches of soil beyond the outer 
edge of the ring. An alternative plan is to water the 
fairy rings with a solution of sulphate of iron, | lb. to a 
gallon of water. 

Berried and Fruiting Shrubs. — I have never seen a 
shrubbery planted solely with trees and shrubs that 
bear showy fruits, but I can imagine it to be well worth 
doing for the sake of its attractiveness at this time of 
year, to say nothing of the spring display of blossom. 
Some of the most striking of ornamental fruiting trees 
belong to the genus Pyrus, which, of course, counts the 
Apple and Pear among its members. Of the Crabs 
probably the showiest are John Downie, the Dartmouth, 
and the Siberian. The last named has scarlet fruits, and 
those of John Downie are red and yellow ; both are 
very freely produced. The Dartmouth bears larger 
fruits of purplish and yellow shades. Pyrus prunifolia, 
having red, and Pyrus Ringo, with yellow fruits, together 
with Pyrus Aucuparia (the Mountain Ash), are others 
of value for winter colour. The Rocksprays or Coton- 
easters too are most attractive. Cotoneaster Simonsi 
and C. frigida form big bushes, while horizontalis and 
microphylla are two beautiful low-growing shrubs ; all 
have berries of some shade of red. Among the various 
Thorns or Crataegus perhaps the best known is Pyra- 
cantha, commonly called the Firethorn. This shrub is 
a familiar sight on house walls, where, in winter, its red 
berries make a brilliant display. The berries of the 
variety Lelandi are even brighter in colour. It seems 

70 




A TYPICAL BLOOM OF JAPANESE CHRYSANTHEMUM 



November — Autumn Work for Summer 

to be necessary to plant this Thorn against a sunny 
wall to ensure a full crop of fruits ; it is rarely successful 
in the shade. The Cockspu.r Thorn (Crataegus crus- 
galli) bears handsome, dark red fruits, while those of 
Crataegus mollis are also very showy. Then there is the 
yellow-fruited Thorn, so rarely grown in gardens ; its 
botanical name is Crataegus oxyacanthoides fructu-luteo. 
Finally worth inclusion is Crataegus cocciuea, having 
large, bright red fruits. Among the Barberries special 
reference should be made to Berberis vulgaris, having 
scarlet fruits. 

The Sea Buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides) is an 
especially atti-active shrub or small tree clothed with 
grey leaves ; at this time of year it is striking because 
of its profusion of orange-coloured berries. The flowers 
of this shrub are unisexual — the female flowers are on 
one plant, and the male flowers on another — thus it is 
necessary to group plants bearing each kind of blossom 
near one another. The Pernettya is a delightful, low- 
grooving shrub that bears pretty, variously-coloured 
berries very freely. There are numerous varieties having 
fruits of different shades of colour, ranging from white, 
through pink to rose and red. Gaultheria procumbens 
and Gaultheria Shallon are most useful evergreen shrubs, 
quite happy under the shade of large trees. The former, 
a creeping shrub, has red berries ; the latter, growing 
some 2 or 3 feet high, bears purple berries. The shrubs 
named are quite easy to grow in ordinary loamy soil. 
The Sea Buckthorn is, as one may imagine from its 
popular name, a seaside shrub, and it is perhaps happiest 
in moist ground by the ivaterside ; the proximity of 
water is not, however, essential to its welfare. 

Basic Slag. — This is perhaps the most generally 
useful of all artificial manures ; it is not unpleasant to 
handle, it is easy to apply and fairly cheap. It is safe 
because slow-acting, and an excess is likely to do little 
if any harm, compared with the damage that would 

71 



Round the Year in the Garden 

result by applying one of the quick-acting fertilisers in 
excess. It may be used either with or without yard 
manure, and is mixed with the soil at a depth of 12 
inches or so, when vacant land is being dug, or scattered 
on the surface and forked in, when applied to beds or 
borders containing plants. The correct quantity to use 
is 6 or 8 oz. to 1 square yard, and the best time to apply 
it is in autumn, so that when the roots again become 
active the slag may be available for their nourishment. 
It is an admirable fertiliser for Roses, fruit trees, shrubs 
and herbaceous plants generally. It is valuable also for 
application to old garden soil that is deficient in lime, 
for lime is one of its constituents. Thus when basic slag 
is used, lime is not necessary unless the soil has been 
dressed for years with yard manure, and has in conse- 
quence become sour. In that case an application of lime 
is beneficial ; its action is to release plant foods that are 
not at present available. The vakie of basic slag 
depends largely upon the fineness to which it is ground ; 
the finer it is the sooner will it be available as plant food, 
since the roots of the plants can only take up food in 
liquid form. Basic slag is sometimes recommended for 
use on the lawn, but it has the disadvantage of encourag- 
ing the growth of clover, though a corrective in the form 
of sulphate of ammonia is available for application in 
spring. It is a moot point whether on lawns containing 
only a little clover, basic slag may not be used with 
advantage in autumn. When clover is already present in 
excess, it would of course be unwise to do this. 

In the Greenhouse 

Winter-flowering Begonias. — These are among the 
most delightful of greenhouse flowers. They are of two 
kinds, the small-flowered class, of which the popular pink 
Gloire de Lorraine is typical, and the large-flowered kinds, 
of which Winter Cheer and John Heal are examples. 

72 



November — Autumn Work for Summer 

The former make little bushes that become smothered in 
small blossom ; the larger flowers of the other class are 
undoubtedly more handsome, though they are not pro- 
duced quite so freely. They need a minimum temper- 
ature of 60°. Both kinds are increased by means of 
cuttings. When the flowers are over the plants are 
kept dry at the roots for a few weeks, for the purpose 
of giving them rest. Subsequently the stems are cut 
down, water is again supplied, and when fresh shoots are 
about 2 inches long they are taken off and inserted as 
cuttings. 

A Blue Winter Flower. — The Coleus is grown chiefly 
for the sake of the nvxmerous varieties with handsome 
and richly coloured leaves, but there is at least one kind 
valued for its blue flowers in winter, viz. Coleus thyr- 
soideus. This is an admirable plant for amateurs and 
needs only a temperature of from 50" to 55°. When the old 
plants have finished flowering the shoots are cut back, 
and in due time fresh growths will form ; these are suit- 
able for cuttings when 2 or 3 inches long, and will form 
roots without difficulty in pots of sandy soil placed in 
a case or under a bell-glass in the warm greenhouse. In 
due course they are potted singly in small pots, in a mix- 
ture of loam, leaf-soil and sand, the first-named material 
in greatest proportion. When well rooted in the small 
pots, they are repotted in others 5 inches wide. They 
make quick growth and the points of the shoots need to 
be taken out occasionally to ensure well-branched plants. 
This is first done when they are 6 or 8 inches high and 
again when the secondary shoots are of similar length. 

In the Fruit Garden 

Many amateurs start flower growing in a more or less 
haphazard way, perhaps without knowing very much 
about the subject, and, finally, after a few failures, they 
arrive at success. No great harm has been done, and 

73 



Round the Year in the Garden 

no serious expense incurred. It is a different matter 
with fruit trees. In the first place, they are expensive ; 
secondly, they will often outlive the planter ; and thirdly, 
he has to wait a few years, even when conditions are 
most favourable, for a fair return in fruit. The con- 
sideration of such points as these ought to make one 
pause before embarking upon the planting of fruit trees 
without having gained some knowledge of the subject 
or sought advice. It used to be said that " He who 
plants Pears, plants for his heirs," and, with the same 
degree of truth, a similar statement might be made 
regarding Apples. Fortunately, it is not wholly true, 
for much depends upon the kind of trees obtained. If 
standards or bushes of Apples on the Crab stock, and 
standards or pyramids of Pears on the Pear stock, are 
planted, then the old adage may be said to contain a 
good deal of truth ; if, however, bush Apples on the 
Paradise and pyramid Pears on the Quince stock are 
obtained, a fair crop of fruits may be expected within 
two or three years, although the trees will not be at 
their best until much later. Trees on the Crab and Pear 
stocks are valuable chiefly for planting in orchards, or 
where plenty of space is available, while those on the 
Paradise and Quince are used for planting in cultivated 
soil of the garden, especially if the garden is of limited 
extent. Those on the Paradise and Quince form fibrous 
roots near the surface; consequently smaller bushes are 
developed, which come quickly into fruit-bearing. The 
others spend the early years of their lives chiefly in 
making growth, but they are longer lived, and, once "well- 
established, will last for generations. For the average 
amateur, bush trees on the dwarfing stocks (as the 
Paradise and Quince are called) are preferable ; they 
take up comparatively little room, and soon begin to 
give a satisfactory return. 

There are many and various kinds of dwarf Apple 
and Pear trees. There is the ordinary bush Apple 

74 



November— Autumn Work for Summer 

and pyramid Pear (tlie latter is distinguished from a 
bush by the possession of a central stem, and is the 
form in which the Pear is most conveniently grown) ; 
there is the cordon, having one stem, or two or three 
stems, which may be trained in a perpendicular, vertical 
or horizontal direction. Further variation is found in 
those trained in the form of a fan or with the branches 
disposed in a horizontal direction, in tiers one above 
the other. Cordons are to be recommended to those 
who wish to grow as many varieties as possible ; they 
may be placed against a fence or wall, or trellis in the 
open garden. Trees having their branches trained in 
horizontal tiers are often put against a trellis in the 
open, but they may be grown on a wall, in which 
position fan-trained trees are usually placed. Apples 
are not commonly planted against a wall, except in 
cold districts, or in other localities for the purpose 
of obtaining fine specimens of rich colour. On the 
other hand. Pears are particularly suitable for walls ; 
the flavour of the fruits is more highly developed from 
trees in such a position than from those in the open. 
They will, at least in southern and south midland 
gardens, thrive perfectly in the open garden either 
as standards or pyramids. 

A proper selection of varieties is of the greatest 
importance in view of the fact that fruit trees are 
comparatively slow in coming to maturity. With a 
few notable exceptions it is doubtful whether it is 
possible to give a selection that shall be ideal and 
suited to all districts, because soil and climate exert an 
influence on fruits. Local varieties, unknown to general 
cultivation, are grown in certain districts, because, 
from long experience, it has been found that they are 
profitable there. Before completing his selection the 
planter should inquire from local nurserymen or gar- 
deners whether there are varieties of Apples or Pears 
with a good reputation in the neighbourhood. 

75 



Round the Year in the Garden 



Self-fertile and Self-sterile Fruits. — Another aspect 
of the subject that deserves consideration is that of 
self -fertile and self -sterile varieties. It is probably 
known to most amateur fruit growers that if one planted, 
say, a Victoria Plum, in an isolated position, it would 
bear fruits freely, whereas if the Greengage were 
similarly treated it would prove disappointing. This 
question, though of the greatest importance, has not 
been the subject of exhaustive experiment, and the 
available data do not form a complete index to self- 
fertile and self-sterile fruits. A particularly interesting 
article dealing with this matter has appeared in The 
Gardener, written over a nom de plume by an amateur 
who has carried out experiments for the purpose of 
finding out which varieties of fruit are self -fertile and 
self-sterile, and I am making bold to reproduce it here 
for the benefit of those who may not have seen it 
already. It is well worth studying, for it shows at a 
glance the varieties that are likely to give satisfactory 
crops when planted alone, and others from which good 
crops must not be expected unless they are planted in 
association with their ascertained affinities ; in other 
words, those which enable them to produce good crops. 

Apples 

Self-sterile 

12 Allington Pippin (16), <36), (37) 

13 Annie Elizabeth 

14 Bismarck 

15 Bramley's Seedling (18), (8) 

16 Beauty of Bath (12), (18), (21) 

17 Byford Wonder 

18 Cox's Orange Pippin (7), (10), 
(12), (15), (16), (29), (30), (32), 
(34), (35) , 

19 Grenadier (7), (28), (31), (33) 

20 James Grieve (10), (18) 

21 Lane's Prince Albert (7), (10), 
(16), (19), (25) 

22 Lord Hindi ip 

23 Mere de Menage (34) 

24 Northern Greening 

25 The Queen (1) 

26 Worcester Pearmain (18) 

27 Wellington 

76 



Self-fertile 

1 Baumann's Red Reinette 

2 Ecklinville Seedling 

3 Golden Spire 

4 King of Pippins 

5 Kerry Pippin 

6 Lord Grosvenor 

7 Lord Derby 

8 Newton Wonder 

9 Pott's Seedling 

10 Stirling Castle 

11 Washington 




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fly^lBIHHH^BHHHHHHIl 



November — Autumn Work for Summer 



28 Crab 

29 Devonshire Quarrenden 

30 Duchess' Favourite 

31 Early Victoria 

32 High Canons 



Used for Cross-pollination 

33 Hoary Morning 

34 Lady Sudeley 

35 Langley Pippin 

36 Ribston Pippin 

37 Summer Golden Pippin 



Self-fertile 

1 Conference 

2 Duchesse d'Angouleme 

3 Durondeau 

4 Doyenne Boussoch 

5 Hacon's Incomparable 



Pears 

Self-sterile 

6 Beurre Clairgeau 

7 Beurre Diel 

8 Catillac (19) 

9 Clapp's Favourite 

10 Doyenne du Cornice (21) 

11 Louise Bonne de Jersey 

12 Pitmaston Duchess (8), (11), (14) 

13 Souvenir du Congres 

14 Williams' Bon Chretien (15) 
(17), (18), (20) 



15 Beurre Easter 

16 Beurre Giffard 

17 Duchesse d'AngouIime 



Used for Cross-pollination 
18 Fertility 



19 Josephine de Malines 

20 Le Lectier 

21 Winter Nelis 



Plums 



Self-fertile 

1 Czar 

2 Denniston's Superb 

3 Damson 

4 Early Favourite (Gisborne's) 

5 Early Transparent 

6 Early Myrabelle 

7 Golden Transparent 

8 Kentish Bush 

9 Monarch 

10 Magnum Bonum Red 

11 Magnum Bonum White 

12 Oullin's Golden Gage 

13 Pershore 

14 Prince Engelbert 

15 Reine Claude Violette 

16 Reine Claude de Bavay 

17 Victoria 

18 Warwickshire Drooper 



Self-sterile 

Black Diamond 

Bradley's King of Damsons 

Coe's Golden Drop (1), (2), (6), 

(9), (15), (37), (38), (39), (40), (44) 
Coe's Violet 
Cox's Emperor 
Curlew 

Early Greengage 
Early Orleans 
Grand Duke 
Histon Gage 
Imperatrice 

Jefferson (5), (9), (39), (40) 
Kirke's Blue 
Late Orleans 
Late Transparent (5) 
IMallard 

Old Greengage (1), (9), (37), (39) 
President 
Pond's Seedling (1) 
Prune d'Agen 

Rivers' Early Prolific (1), (9), (26) 
Reine Claude d'AItham (21), 

(22), (30) 
Sultan 
Stint 

Washington (37) 
Wyedale 



77 



Round the Year in the Garden 



Cherries 



Self-fertile 

1 Florence 

2 Kentish Morello 

3 Late Duke 

4 Morello 

5 Napoleon 

6 Bundle's 

7 Turk 



Self-sterile 

8 Ambe Bigarreau (5), (7), (13), (18) 

9 Black Tartarian 

10 Burg d'Annay 

11 Bigarreau Napoleon 

12 Elton Heart (13), (19) 

13 Frogmore Bigarreau (7), (8) 

14 Knight's Black Eagle (7) 

15 Knight's Early Black (14) 

16 Kentish 

17 May Duke 

18 Old Black Heart (4) 

19 Rivers' Early Black (8) 

20 White Heart 

" In the above lists, which are lamentably incomplete, 
the numbers within brackets indicate the serial numbers 
of the ascertained affinities. Among the self-sterile kinds 
are included some which are so feebly fertile as to be 
practically sterile. Coe's Golden Drop would appear to 
be rather a light-o'-love among Plums. 

" No universal fertilisers have yet been found. If such 
there be they will probably be wild fruits such as Crab- 
apples, Sloes, etc." 

Planting Fruit Trees. — It is essential to prepare large 
holes ; they should be 4 or 5 feet across and the soil ought 
to be stirred to .a depth of from 2 to 3 feet. It is a 
mistake to mix manure with the ground, for the chief 
difficulty experienced during the first few years is to 
jjrevent the trees growing too vigorously. This applies 
especially to those planted in the garden proper; some 
manure may be dug in the soil at the bottom of the holes 
prepared for orchard trees. It is most important that a 
space 3 or 4 feet wide should be kept clear round trees on 
grass land ; if the grass is allowed to grow right up to 
the stems, the growth of the trees invariably suffers. 
The same advice applies to the planting of standard 
Roses on the lawn ; a space clear of grass ought always 
to be left round the stems. The uppermost roots of 
dwarf fruit trees need be covered with only 2 or 3 inches 
of soil. Stakes should be used for the purpose of keeping 

78 



November — Autumn Work for Summer 

standards firm in the ground. This end ought not to 
be attained by planting deeply. There is no necessity to 
describe in detail the actual process of planting ; it is 
obvious that the roots must be spread out properly, 
bruised and broken ones being cut back, and the soil 
made firm about them. As to the correct time for plant- 
ing fruit trees, there is none better than early November ; 
they may be planted until late in March with decreasing 
prospects of success, at any rate for the first season. It 
is possible to plant them throughout winter, when the 
weather is mild, and even as late as the end of March, but 
the later in the season the work is carried out, the less 
likely are they to make satisfactory growth the first 
season. There is no need to protect the roots, except 
perhaps in cold districts, where a covering of littery 
manure may be advantageous. 

Varieties of Apples. — Many of us if asked for the 
name of the best flavoured Apple would have no 
hesitation in choosing Cox's Orange Pippin, though there 
are some who prefer Ribston Pippin. But individual 
tastes are strange, and judgment would not be unanimous 
in favour of these old varieties. There are only two Apples 
that I personally enjoy — Ribston and Cox's Orange — 
but as I would rather have a juicy Josephine de Malines 
or Doyenne du Comice Pear, I am probably not a good 
judge of Apples. However, I can give a list of those 
that are considered to be the best available and are most 
likely to succeed in amateurs' gardens. 

The following are twelve dessert varieties, the name 
of the month in which they are ready for use being also 
given : Mr. Gladstone (August), Lady Sudeley (September) 
Margil (October), King of the Pippins (October), James 
Grieve (October), St. Edmund's Pippin (October, Novem- 
ber), Egremont Russet (October, November), Adam's 
Pearmain (November, December), Allington Pippin 
(November to January), Cox's Orange Pippin (November, 
December), Ribston Pippin (November), and Sturmer 

79 



Round the Year in the Garden 

Pippin (March). Of cooking varieties the following form 
an excellent dozen : Pott's Seedling (August, September), 
Lord Suffield (August, September), Stirling Castle 
(September, October), Ecklinville Seedling (September, 
October), Bismarck (November, December), Blenheim 
Orange (November, December), Golden Noble (November, 
December), Lane's Prince Albert (December, January), 
Sandringham (January, February), Bramley's Seedling 
(December to March), Newton Wonder (December to 
April), and Wellington (December to April). 

Notes on Pears. — A luscious Pear is probably chief 
favourite among hardy fruits ; it is, I think, preferred by 
most people to an Apple. Pear trees are often less 
disappointing than Apple trees ; in an amateur's garden 
they are less likely to fail under injudicious treatment. 
You may prune a Pear tree by rule of thumb, and it will 
continue to yield good crops, whereas an Apple tree needs 
more intelligent management. The Pear bears abundantly 
from spvirs, short stubby growths that form at intervals 
throughout the full length of the branches. I have seen 
old Pear trees the branches of which were covered from 
tip to base with fruit spurs, the result of the simple ortho- 
dox practice of summer and winter pruning. There is 
a bewildering choice of varieties, and almost every 
grower has his favourites. Of those to be recommended 
generally the following are chief ; the month (or months) 
in which they are in season is given : Jargonelle (August), 
Williams' Bon Chretien (September), Fondante d'Automne 
(September), Conference — perhaps the most satisfactory 
of all varieties for an amateur — (October), Louise Bonne of 
Jersey (October), Thompson's — considered by many to be 
the most delicious Pear — (October), Marie Louise (October, 
November), Beurre Superfin (October, November), Beurre 
Hardy (October, November), Beurre Diel (November), 
Doyenne du Comice (November), Winter Nelis (December), 
Charles Ernest (November), Josephine de Malines (Decem- 
ber, January). 

80 



November — Autumn Work for Summer 

Concerning Plums. — My experience of Plums, if one 
excepts some of the prolific cooking varieties, is that 
they are somewhat erratic in fruit-bearing. They crop 
better when planted together than when isolated, and 
the reader should study the lists on page 76 to ascertain 
which are the self - fertile varieties. They may be 
grown as standards or pyramids, or on a wall facing 
west or east ; in cold gardens the shelter of a wall is 
necessary. Planting firmly in soil that has not been 
manured, and in which lime - rubble has been mixed 
freely, is an important consideration, for young trees 
often make such vigorous growth as to become un- 
fruitful, and the malady known as " gumming " may 
then attack the branches. It is advisable to lift all 
young fruit trees each autumn, for the first few years 
after planting, if they form thick, unfruitful shoots ; 
otherwise they soon become unmanageable, and it is 
almost hopeless, or at least takes a long time, to bring 
them back to a fruitful condition. The uppermost 
roots ought not to be covered with more than 2 or 3 
inches of soil. A few of the most satisfactory dessert 
Plums are Kirke's (purple), Jefferson (greenish-yellow), 
Reine Claude de Bavay (greenish). Transparent Gage 
(orange yellow and green), Coe's Golden Drop (yellow, 
dotted with red), Oullin's Golden Gage (yellow). Green 
Gage (greenish) and Bryanston Gage (greenish-yellow). 
All these are well worth planting against a wall, but 
especially Coe's Golden Drop (of which the fruits should 
be allowed to hang until they are slightly shrivelled), 
Jefferson, Transparent Gage, Reine Claude de Bavay 
and Green Gage. Kirke's is perhaps the best of all for 
the amateur's garden. Among cooking Plums good sorts 
are Victoria (red, an immense cropper). The Czar (dark 
purple). Rivers' Early Prolific (purplish). Pond's Seedling 
(pale red). Monarch (purple) and President (dark purple). 

Peach and Nectarine. — These delicious fruits need 
a south or west wall, even in southern counties, and 
G 8i 



Round the Year in the Garden 

are not suitable for planting in northern counties. They 
are among the easiest of fruits to grow if the trees 
are carefully attended to for a few years after planting 
and the method of pruning is understood. They need 
well-drained loamy soil containing lime-rubble, but 
no manure. In rich ground they, too, are apt to make 
vigorous growth during the first few years following 
planting, and the only remedy is to lift the trees each 
autumn and shorten any thick roots that may have 
formed. A few excellent varieties of Peach for out-of- 
door planting are Stirling Castle, Royal George, Violette 
native, Alexandra Noblesse, Hale's Early and Bellegarde. 
Delicious Nectarines are Elruge, Early Rivers, Pineapple 
and Pitmaston Orange. 

Cherries are satisfactory fruits to grow, providing 
they can be protected from birds ; if not, then it is 
useless to plant them. They are most easily protected 
when grown against a wall, and as they will thrive 
excellently on a wall with east or north aspect, there 
are doubtless many positions in gardens which they 
might fill to advantage. Not only the Morello, but the 
Sweet Cherries are suitable for planting in these aspects. 
Fan-trained trees against a wall usually bear splendid 
crops, and they do not need a great deal of attention 
beyond summer and winter pruning. It is essential 
to keep down aphis in early summer ; this pest attacks 
the tips of young shoots and, if not destroyed, will soon 
ruin them. Cherries, like all stone fruits, appreciate 
lime-rubble in the soil ; this must be made very firm 
about the roots, and manure ought not to be added. A 
few of the best varieties are Black Tartarian, Black 
Eagle, Early Rivers and Knight's Early Black (all 
dark Cherries) ; May Duke (red, a splendid cropper), 
Frogmore Early Bigarreau (red and yellow). Governor 
Wood (red and yellow). The Noble (dark red), Kentish 
Bigarreau (red and yellow) and Florence (red and yellow, 
late). 

82 



November — Autumn Work for Summer 

Raspberry. — No fruit is more easily grown than the 
Raspberry ; all one has to do to keep the plants healthy 
and free bearing is to plant in well-prepared soil, mulch 
the surface in summer to keep the roots cool, and, in 
autumn, cut out the canes which have borne fruit, tying 
in those which have developed during summer ; they, 
of course, will bear the following year's crop. These 
remarks apply to the ordinary summer fruiting Rasp- 
berries. Autumn fruiting kinds need different treat- 
ment, for they bear fruits on the current year's stems, 
and are therefore hard pruned — cut to within a few 
inches of the ground in February. Of summer Rasp- 
berries good red sorts are Superlative and Norwich 
Wonder; attractive yellow varieties are The Guinea 
and White Antwerp. Of autumn Raspberries the chief 
are Red and Yellow Four Seasons. 

Gooseberry and Red and White Currants. — The 
first-named fruit thrives in ordinary garden soil, and is 
of the easiest cultivation. The only drawback, from the 
amateur's j)oint of view, is its liability to attack by 
caterpillars, which play sad havoc with the leaves if 
allowed to spread. Methods of coping with this pest 
are, to remove 2 or 3 inches of the surface soil in winter, 
adding fresh material ; to dust the bushes with lime and 
soot in early summer, when they are moist ; to destroy 
as many caterpillars as possible by handpicking ; to 
spray with Paris green or arsenate of lead — poisonous 
compounds which must not be used within six weeks 
of gathering the fruit. I feel sure that amateurs would 
derive most satisfaction from Gooseberries and Red 
and White Currants by growing them as cordons, with 
one, two or three branches each. A large number can 
be accommodated in a small space ; they are easily and 
conveniently pruned and attended to; the gathering of 
the fruit is easy, and they bear splendid crops. Cordons 
may be planted against a north or east wall, or a wire 
trellis alongside the garden walk, wherever there happens 

83 



Round the Year in the Garden 

to be room for them. In time amateurs will regard 
cordons of Gooseberries and Red and White Currants 
as the ideal form in which to grow these fruits. A few 
of the finest Gooseberries are (of red sorts) Ironmonger, 
Keen's Seedling and Warrington ; (of green sorts) 
Langley Gage and Greengage ; (of yellow sorts) Yellow 
Sulphur and Champagne Yellow ; (of white sorts) White- 
smith. All these bear comparatively small fruits. Those 
who wish to grow giant Gooseberries should choose from 
Crown Bob, Lancashire Lad, Whinham's Industry and 
Speedwell (all red sorts) ; Careless and Shiner (white) ; 
Plunder, Stockwell and Thumper (green) ; Langley 
Beauty, Ringer, Leveller and Keepsake (yellow). Of 
Red Currants, Raby Castle and Fay's Prolific, and of 
White Currants, White Dutch and White Transparent 
are satisfactory sorts. 

Black Currant. — This accommodating fruit will thrive 
in a partially shaded spot ; it gives no difficulty if one 
remembers to cut out the old shoots in autumn, to make 
room for those of the current year's growth, and if one 
is lucky enough to keep the bushes free from the Black 
Currant Mite, or Big Bud, a minute insect pest that 
attacks the buds, causing them to become enlarged and 
useless. When ordering Black Currants it is wise to 
make inquiries as to whether the bushes are free from 
Big Bud, for it is all important to start with healthy 
bushes. Boskoop Giant is a favourite variety, though 
the old Black Naples, which bears smaller berries, is 
quite good also. 

Canker in Fruit Trees. — Canker is one of the most 
embarrassing diseases with which the fruit grower has 
to contend ; there is little hope for a tree that is badly 
attacked. Some varieties are especially prone to develop 
this malady, particularly when growing on heavy land, 
and it is as well to know the names, if only to avoid 
planting them on soil of this nature. Ribston Pippin 
and Cox's Orange Pippin are unfortunately among them ; 

84 




A PROSTRATE BROOM (CYTISUS KEWENSIS) 
(Cream coloured) 




IN THE GARDEN AT DRUMMONli i AS I I !•; 



November — Autumn Work for Summer 

if it is felt that these are indispensable, they ought to 
be given a warm and well-drained position. Lord 
Suflfieid, Warner's King, Cellini Pippin and Lord Derby, 
cooking Apples, are others liable to suffer from 
canker. 

As to remedial measures, all one can do is to cut off 
small diseased branches, and cankered portions from 
older branches, and subsequently to apply a dressing 
of gas tar. Unless an affected tree is attended to in 
this way, insect pests, and especially American Blight, 
infest the decayed parts. 

Root-Pruning Fruit Trees. — Young fruit trees are 
liable to make vigorous growth, which, if not checked, 
militates against the production of fruit. The remedy 
is to lift and root-prune them. Root-pruning is drastic 
treatment, but it seems the only thing to do when growth 
is excessive and fruits are conspicuous by their absence. 
It is accomplished by digging a trench some distance 
from the tree and cutting back all thick roots that are 
found ; search should also be made for similar roots that 
descend abruptly, by forking away the soil beneath the 
tree. Offending roots having been shortened, the soil 
is filled in again and made firm. In dealing with young 
trees the purpose is often fulfilled by merely lifting 
them each autumn for the first two or three years, and 
replanting nearer the surface. Root-pruning may easily 
be overdone, and especially with older trees. I have 
known fifteen-year-old Apple trees to be so severely 
checked by this practice that they were moribund for 
several seasons afterwards. The distance from the 
stem at which the trench is opened varies according 
to the age of the tree ; it should not be closer than 3 
feet, even in the case of young trees. In dealing with 
old trees the roots on one side only are cut back the 
first season, those on the opposite side being pruned the 
following autumn ; moreover, the trench should be some 
6 feet away from the stem. 

8S 



Round the Year in the Garden 

Maggoty Apples and Pears are usually numerous 
owing to the ravages of the Codlin moth. The chief 
measure of precaution at this season is to gather and 
burn such fruits as are not fit for vise, thus destroying 
the grubs. It is wise also to remove a few inches of 
the surface soil in autumn, replacing with fresh material, 
and to place bands of hay round the stems to prevent 
the larvae ascending the trees, which they do for the 
purpose of hibernating in cracks and crevices of the 
bark. In December the hay bands are taken off and 
burnt. The way to get rid of this pest is to spray the 
trees with arsenate of lead solution as soon as the flowers 
have fallen in spring. It is necessary that the spray be 
so directed that it falls on the " eye " of the embryo 
fruit, for it is there that the grub finds entrance ; once 
inside, it works its way down the centre, and emerges 
at the side of the fruit. 

Fruit Trees Under Glass. — Peaches, Nectarines 
and Vines grown under glass are important crops, and 
more than ordinary care is needed to' keep them in a 
healthy and fruitful condition. Apart from errors in 
ventilation, and in regulating the temperature, the 
commonest cause of failure is due to an unsuitable 
border. Such complaints as the fall of buds from 
Peach and Nectarine trees or their sparse blossoming, 
the failure of Grapes to set, the shrivelling of the stalks 
of the berries — all may be traced to the fact that the 
roots are in unsuitable soil. In preparing to plant 
fruit trees under glass most amateurs fall into the 
error of making too large a border. A considerable 
mass of soil not vs^ell filled with roots soon becomes 
sour, especially if water is applied injudiciously. 

A border of strictly limited extent is less likely to 
deteriorate. Too great care can scarcely be taken in 
its formation ; it may either be out of doors or under 
glass. The latter is preferable, since the soil will be 
warmer. A suitable size for a border for either Peaches 

86 



November — Autumn Work for Summer 

or Vines is 3 feet deep and 4 feet wide. There should 
be some 9 inches of broken bricks at the bottom for 
drainage, and upon these a layer of turves, placed grass 
side downwards. The remaining space is filled with a 
prepared compost. Turves, each of which is chopped 
with a spade into about six pieces, should form the chief 
ingredient; a free sprinkling of lime-rubble and bone 
manure in the form of i - inch bones is added and 
thoroughly mixed in. As the border is made up the 
soil ought to be trodden firmly. Planting should not 
take place for a week or two afterwards ; by that time 
the soil will have settled almost to its normal level. 
As the fruit trees develop it becomes necessary to add 
to the border ; an extra 2 feet width of soil every two 
years mil probably be found sufficient. The outer edge 
of the border consists of a wall of turf, with which 
the soil is enclosed. 

This advice is, I admit, a counsel of perfection, but 
when one realises that under fair treatment Peaches 
and Vines will live and bear good crops for half a 
lifetime the trouble is scarcely too great. Fruit trees 
under glass benefit at this season if the surface soil to 
the depth of several inches is removed, and replaced 
with fresh, turfy soil with which a little bone manure 
is mixed. Now also is the time to attend to those that 
have been failures. Not only should the surface soil 
be taken off, but a trench ought to be dug as far away 
from the tree stems as possible to enable one to fork 
away the soil until a mass of roots is exposed. The 
old soil must be removed, and a practically new border 
formed in the manner previously indicated. It is a 
laborious process, yet the only one that will bring any 
lasting benefit to the trees. All thick, fibreless roots 
should be shortened and relaid within the upper 12 
inches of soil. Lime and mortar rubble is excellent 
material to mix with the soil in preparing a border 
for stone-fruit trees. 

87 



Round the Year in the Garden 

Cleansing Fruit Trees under Glass. — Winter is the 
season when Vines and other fruit trees under glass can 
be cleansed most effectually. They should be untied 
from the trellis to which they are trained, and then 
pruned. In dealing with Peaches and Nectarines, old 
shoots — that have produced fruits — are cut out to make 
way for those of the previous summer's growth. These 
will bear the finest fruits next year. While the trees 
are detached from the trellis the opportunity should 
be taken to have the trellis and woodwork scrubbed 
with hot soft-soapy water, with which a little paraffin 
is mixed. 

All loose bark is scraped off the Vines, and, if 
that troublesome white insect called mealy bug is 
seen, it should be killed by the use of a brush dipped 
in methylated spirit. Gishurst Compound is an excellent 
insecticide to use on Peach and Nectarine trees and 
Vines, though in applying it care is necessary to see 
that the buds are not damaged or rubbed off, as may 
easily be done by a careless worker. Some growers paint 
the Vines with a mixture of clay and gas tar in solution, 
using TT a gallon of clay, made into paste with water, 
and adding | a pint of gas tar. This is brushed into 
cracks and crevices, and it does undoubtedly get rid of 
insect pests. 

For cleansing an empty greenhouse there is no 
method at once so simple and so effectual as burning 
powdered sulphur. The ventilators are tightly closed, 
a flower-pot containing hot coals is placed on the floor, 
and a handful of sulphur is sprinkled on them. The 
fumes are deadly to all forms of life, both vegetable 
and animal, so that this plan can only be adopted in an 
empty greenhouse. Needless to say, the gardener, 
having placed the sulphur on the burning coal, will 
make haste to leave. The disadvantage of this practice 
is that the fumes may damage the paint on the 
woodwork. 

88 



November — Autumn Work for Summer 

In the Kitchen Garden 

The grower of vegetables may rest upon his laurels 
to a very large extent this month, so far as outdoor 
work is concerned, though he would be wise to make 
plans for next year's crops by deciding upon the kinds 
and varieties to be grown, and by planning out the 
available space ; thus a proper rotation of crops can 
be practised. The garden fire ought to be kept going 
merrily, so that all rubbish and dead and decaying leaves 
can be burnt. Needless to say, vacant land should be 
thrown up roughly into the form of ridges ; frost, wind, 
snow and rain will then do an immense amount of good, 
and, at the approach of spring, the soil will crumble to a 
fine tilth at the touch of fork and spade, and will be in 
excellent condition for sowing. Ground that is not dug 
during winter dries slowly in spring, and, consequently, is 
more difficult to get into proper condition for cropping. 

Readers possessing light soil might well make a 
sowing of Broad Beans for an early gathering, choosing 
one of the Longpod varieties. Peas, too, may be sown 
on similar kind of land. On heavy ground it is scarcely 
wise to attempt either crop now, for many of the 
seedlings will be lost during winter. 

The Globe Artichoke is not a particularly hardy vege- 
table, and it is wise to afford some protection by placing 
bracken or straw round the base of the plants, having first 
cut down the old stems. It is important not to cover 
the centre or heart of the plant, or decay may set in. 

Seakale can now be forced by lifting a few roots (the 
leaves having been removed) and placing them in boxes 
of soil in a warm and dark place, such, for example, as 
beneath the greenhouse stage if no better position offers. 
It is essential that they be kept in the dark, or the 
produce will not be of the best quality. Rhubarb may 
be similarly treated, though darkness is not so necessary 
in this case. 

89 



, DECEMBER 

Making Plans 

DECEMBER is a dull month in the garden out of 
doors, and the most trying for the amateur unless 
he possesses a greenhouse. It is difficult to arouse 
enthusiasm in December ; the joys of planting are, or 
ought to be, over, and little fresh growth is visible above 
ground. One has to possess one's soul in patience. The 
measure of present satisfaction is governed largely by 
the work carried out during the two previous months ; 
if all plants the gardener had set his heart upon growing 
are safely planted, he knows they are preparing to yield 
him a full measure of delight in the future. He who 
has delayed must hasten to make up for lost time and 
hope for the best. Perhaps the best relaxation for 
December is to turn to the gardening books and 
catalogues, which provide much food for reflection and 
tell many fairy tales. It is fairly safe when you read 
of a scarlet flower to expect only a red one ; to translate 
orange as yellow, yellow as primrose, mauve as lavender, 
crimson as dark red, and so on, and to regard with 
suspicion the flowers of purplish-rose. 

Among the Hardy Flowers 

Tidying Up.— Some people's gardens are always tidy, 
others are just the reverse. I am sure that tidiness in 
gardens is an excellent thing, for where tidiness is 
practised there also is care taken. It is not wise to 
be too scrupulous at this season, or more harm than 
good may follow. One sees the gardener digging 

90 



December — Making Plans 

amongst shrubs with a spade, turning over the soil as 
though he were preparing a strawberry bed. The roots 
of the shrubs are bound to be damaged by such a process. 
A garden fork is the proper tool to use when working 
among shrubs or plants ; deep digging is not needed 
there. How few amateurs place a proper value upon 
the dead leaves that are swept up at this time of year. 
If only they were gathered and carefully heaped vip or 
buried in some out of the way corner, there would be 
an invaluable store of leafmould in a year or so. The 
leaves of Oak, Elm, and Beech are the most valuable. 
They may remain exposed to the rain and frost, which 
hasten decay, though it is necessary to prevent their 
being blown about by placing hurdles or some other 
similar protection over them. Watering occasionally 
with boiling water hastens decay, and a cupful of 
ammonia in 1 gallon of water forms a valuable solution 
for killing insect pests. Tidying up is really essential 
in the Rose garden now, for mild weather often prolongs 
the growth of the plants, especially of climbers, to such a 
degree that they become untidy. Shoots formed late in 
the season are rarely of any value, for they have no 
chance to ripen; consequently, in spring, they wither 
away. Such shoots may be shortened considerably now. 
Ramblers generally make very free growth, and on 
established plants there is rarely room both for old and 
young stems ; the former must of course give way to 
the latter, and be cut out, the fresh ones being tied in 
to replace them. It is a good plan to shorten all long 
shoots, even on bush Roses, otherwise, during high winds, 
they are liable to sway and the plants become loose in 
the soil. As much as one-third may be cut off, unless, 
of course, the intention is to peg down the shoots in 
spring : then they must be tied in some way to prevent 
their being blown about. 

Cleansing Rose Bushes. — The present is an excellent 
time to make an attempt to cleanse Rose bushes, so that 

91 



Round the Year in the Garden 

next year they may be comparatively free from harmful 
pests and diseases. The most troublesome disease, with 
the possible exception of mildew, is black sjjot. This 
forms blackish patches on the leaves and spreads alarm- 
ingly ; it is destructive because it causes the leaves to 
fall prematurely. Now that the Roses are dormant 
one can take stronger measures than are possible 
when the plants are in leaf, for the stems are not 
likely to be injured. Bushes and standards which have 
suffered should be sprayed late in December, and again 
in January, with a solution of sulphate of copper. One 
oz. of sulphate of copper in 2 gallons of water is the 
proportion recommended. This is sprayed over the 
bushes and on the soil immediately around them. 
Gathering and burning fallen leaves is also an invaluable 
help towards getting rid of this harmful disease, which, 
unfortunately, seems to be on the increase. 

Protecting Roses. — In gardens in comparatively 
mild parts of the country. Hybrid Perpetual and Hybrid 
Tea Roses really need no protection, but in cold districts 
it is wise to take precautions. The simplest and best 
protection for bush or dwarf Roses is afforded by 
heaping the soil over the^base of the plants. Care must 
be taken not to draw too much soil away from the 
roots, otherwise more harm than good may result. The 
best way to protect standards is to place a little bracken 
or straw among the shoots. It is important to remove 
the covering in good time in spring, otherwise the lower 
buds, to which one prunes, and upon which the display 
of blossom depends, may start into growth prematurely. 
Roses on walls do not need protection except in cold 
localities ; they are fairly well screened, but it is advis- 
able further to shield tender sorts by means of hay 
bands or straw or bracken placed among the stems. 

Some Winter Shrubs.— Among the comparatively 
few flowers that one may expect to see out of doors 
during the winter are those of several shrubs. Com- 

92 




OS 

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►J H 

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December — Making Plans 

monest of all and greatest favourite is the Winter 
Jessamine (Jasniinum uudiflorum) ; its slender shoots 
become wreathed in blossom in the depth of winter. This 
climbing shrub is widely grown, and one would think 
that every amateur knew how to prune it. Many people 
still tidy up the Winter Jessamine in autumn, thus 
cutting off, or shortening, the shoots that, if left alone, 
would yield the chief flower display. The proper time 
to prune is in early spring when the flowering season 
is over ; the plant then has the whole season before it 
in which to form and to mature fresh shoots for next 
winter's bloom. A less familiar yellow, winter - flowering 
Jessamine is called primulinum; the flowers are larger 
than those of nudiflorum, but the plant unfortunately 
is not very hardy. The Winter Sweet (Chimonanthus 
fragrans), if planted against a sunny wall, bears brownish- 
yellow, scented blossoms in mid-winter, and, like yellow 
Jessamine, is useful for indoor decoration. A few sprays 
of Winter Sweet fill a room with fragrance. There is 
a variety of Chimonanthus called grandiflorus ; it has 
larger blooms of deeper yellow than the type, but it 
really needs to be grown against a wall, while the other 
may be cultivated as a bush. The fruits of the Winter 
Sweet often mature when the shrub is grown on a wall. 
The proper method of pruning is to cut back the side 
growths to within an inch or so of their base as soon 
as the flowering season is past; this shrub, like the 
Jessamine, blooms on the previous summer's shoots. 

Winter-flowering Honeysuckle. — Two welcome win- 
ter-flowering Honeysuckles are Lonicera fragrantissima 
and Lonicera Standishi. The former bears white and 
the latter cream-coloured flowers in Janua^J^ They may 
either be grown as bushes, or placed against a wall. 
They need little, if any, pruning. Everyone knows, 
though comparatively few seem to grow, the old Mezereon 
(Daphne Mezereum), a stiff shrub, some 2 feet or more 
high, which in early spring bears fragrant, reddish 

93 



Round the Year in the Garden 

flowers. The variety graudiflora is finer. The Daphne 
thrives best when not touched by the pruning knife. 
The Japanese Quince (Cydonia japonica) may be expected 
to bear its red, apple - blossom - like flowers early, 
especially in a mild winter. The fruits, which ripen 
during summer, make an excellent jelly. It may be 
grown either as a small bush in the open, or trained 
against a wall. What little pruning is necessary is 
directed towards stopping the side shoots in summer ; 
the effect of this is to cause blossom buds to form. 
Though usually necessary with plants on walls, this 
treatment is rarely required when dealing with those 
grown as bushes in the open garden. 

The finest of the Witch Hazels is Hamamelis mollis. 
It is in bloom early in the New Year, and bears yellow 
flowers. It opens earlier than the better - known 
Hamamelis arborea, with curiously twisted yellow and 
reddish-brown blossoms. The Witch Hazels need no 
regular pruning, though it is essential occasionally to 
cut out the old growths. Garrya elliptica is a curious 
yet attractive catkin-bearing shrub. The male catkins 
alone are of decorative value, and as male and female 
catkins are produced on separate shrubs, it is necessary 
when purchasing to ensure that the male-flowered plant 
is supplied. The long catkins of the latter are of 
yellowish-green colouring, and look especially handsome 
when depending from the branches trained against a 
sunny wall. 

During Frost and Snow. — The time - honoured advice 
given by gardening books and papers on work for frosty 
w^eather is to wheel manure on vacant ground so that 
it may be in readiness for digging in when the thaw 
takes place. Though not, perhaps, a very entertaining- 
exhortation, it is nevertheless sound, for the wheelbarrow 
runs much more easily on hard than on soft ground. 
Chief among other items of gardening work to be done 
during frost is that of pruning, for this may be carried 

94 



December — Making Plans 

out in any weather, providing the pruner has no objec- 
tion. It seems reasonable to suppose that severe frost 
would do harm to the exposed tissues of the trees, but 
this does not occur, doubtless because growth is quiescent. 
It is harmful to defer pruning until signs of growth are 
apparent, for when the sap flows freely it is liable to 
exude from the cut sui'face, and a condition known 
to gardeners as " bleeding " ensues. Vines are especially 
liable to bleed when pruning is practised in spring. 
Though frost may inconvenience out-of-door gardening 
by restricting work it does an immense amount of good 
to the land by killing ground pests, keeping trees and 
plants dormant and " sweetening " the soil. Happy 
are they whose vacant ground was ridged, or dug and 
left rough, so that as great a surface as possible is 
exposed. The frost breaks up the clods and lumps and 
reduces them to such a state that subsequently they 
crumble at the touch of fork or spade. While severe 
frost may do much harm to certain plants that are 
not adequately protected, its action on other plants 
and some seeds is beneficial. Those of certain alpine 
plants germinate better after the pots in which they 
are sown have been exposed to severe weather. Bulbs, 
too, seem to grow more rapidly during mild weather 
following frost. The effect is similar to that obtained 
by the retardation of roots of Lily of the Valley, Lily, 
etc. ; after these have been stored in a low temperature 
for a time they make remarkably rapid progress when 
placed in warmth. 

Treatment of Frozen Plants. — The treatment of 
plants that may happen to get frozen is a matter of 
some interest. The temptation is to thaw them as 
speedily as possible by syringeing with warm water. 
However, this is really the wrong thing to do, and will 
almost certainly result in their loss. The object should 
be to thaw them gradually. This is accomplished by 
covering them with mats for a few hours and subse- 

95 



Round the Year in the Garden 

quently syringeing with cold water ; such treatment 
needs to be continued until the object is achieved. It 
is necessary to protect them from sunshine, for if this 
reaches frozen plants it does much damage. For this 
reason it is inadvisable to put tender plants, or those 
that start into growth early, on a border facing east. 

Snow is a valuable protective agent in the garden ; 
roots, seeds and small plants are quite safe beneath 
its mantle providing they are hardy. A heavy fall 
may do much damage to precious trees and shrubs if 
the snow is not removed. Conifers, many of which 
possess horizontally disposed branches, are most liable 
to suffer, and if the snow is not beaten off, some of 
the shoots may break beneath its weight, thus ruining 
the appearance of the tree. 

Berried and Fruiting Shrubs. — I have never seen a 
shrubbery planted solely with trees and shrubs that bear 
showy fruits, but I can imagine it to be well worth doing 
for the sake of its attractiveness at this time of the year, 
to say nothing of the spring display of blossom. Though 
it may not be practicable to do this, there is no excuse for 
neglecting altogether those shrubs or small trees distin- 
guished by the possession of brilliant fruits. It is true 
that the birds will have numbers of them, but some 
owners of gardens are sufficiently large-hearted to view 
such depredations Avith equanimity, if not with pleasure. 
Some of the most striking of ornamental fruiting trees 
belong to the genus Pyrus, which of course counts the 
Apple and Pear among its numbers. Of Crabs, probably 
the showiest are John Downie, the Dartmouth and the 
Siberian. The last named has scarlet fruits, and those of 
John Downie are red and yellow ; both are produced freely. 
The Dartmouth bears larger fruits of purplish and yellow 
shades. Pyrus prunifolia having red, and Pyrus ringo, 
with yellow fruits, together with Pyrus Aucuparia 
(Mountain Ash) are others of value for the purpose 
in view. The Rocksprays or Cotoneasters, too, are most 

96 







CLIMBING ROSES THALIA, RENl^ ANDRE. AND ALBERIC BARBIER 



December — Making Plans 

attractive. Cotoneaster Simonsii and frigida form big 
bushes, while horizontalis and microphylla are two 
beautiful low-growing shrubs ; all have berries of some 
shade of red. Among the various Thorns or Crataegus, 
perhaps the best known is Pyracantha, commonly called the 
Firethorn. This shrub is a familiar sight on house walls, 
where, in winter, its red fruits make a brilliant display. 
The fruits of the variety Lelandi are even brighter in 
colour. It seems to be necessary to plant this Crataegus 
against a sunny wall to ensure a full crop of fruits ; one 
rarely finds it successful in the shade, for there the 
flowers fail to " set " satisfactorily. The Cockspur Thorn 
(Crataegus crus-galli) bears handsome, dark-red fruits, 
while those of Crataegus mollis are also showy. Then 
there is the yellow-fruited Thorn, so rarely grown in 
gardens ; its botanical name is oxyacanthoides fructu- 
luteo. Finally worth inclusion is Crataegus coccinea, 
having large, bright red fruits. Among the Barberries, 
special reference should be made to Berberis vulgaris, 
with scarlet fruits. 

The Sea Buckthorn. — The Sea Buckthorn (Hippophae 
rhamnoides) is an especially attractive shrub or small 
tree, clothed with grey leaves, and at this time of the 
year bearing a profusion of orange-coloured berries. One 
has to bear in mind that the flowers of this shrub are 
unisexual, thus it is necessary to place near one another 
plants bearing each kind of blossom. The Pernettyas are 
delightful low-growing shrubs that bear pretty, variously 
coloured berries very freely. There are numerous varie- 
ties having fruits of different shades of colour, ranging 
from white through pink to rose and red. The two 
Gaultherias, procumbens and Shallon, are most useful 
shrubs, for they are quite happy under the shade of large 
trees. They are evergreen ; the former, a creeping shrub, 
has red berries ; the latter, growing some 2 or 3 feet high, 
bears purple fruits. All the shrubs named in this note are 
of quite easy cultivation in ordinary loamy soil. The 
H 97 



Round the Year in the Garden 

Sea Buckthorn is, as one might imagine from its popular 
name, a seaside shrub, and it is perhaps happiest in moist 
ground by the waterside, but the proximity of water is 
not essential to its welfare. 

Heather and Moonlight Bramble.— No reference 
to winter shrubs would be complete without mention 
of some of the Heaths, notably Erica carnea and Erica 
mediterranea hybrida. The latter is often in bloom 
throughout the winter and early spring ; it forms a bush 
some 15 inches high and bears reddish flowers. Erica 
carnea blossoms most freely of all, it grows only some 6 
or 8 inches high, but throughout many weeks in early 
spring it is a mass of pale reddish blossom. Some charm- 
ing effects may be obtained by planting early bulbs 
among it — such, for instance, as Anemone, Scilla, Glory 
of the Snow, and Daffodil. Heaths need no pruning as 
this term is commonly understood, though it is advisable 
to cut off the old flower heads when the blossoms have 
faded. Among non-flowering shrubs that produce a 
striking effect in the depth of winter, none is more 
remarkable than the Moonlight Bramble (Rubus biflorus). 
This jDroduces vigorous shoots some 6 or 8 feet high, 
that are white as though they had been whitewashed. 
Having seen a group of this bizarre shrub in bright 
moonlight, one can readily understand and sympathise 
with the choice of its popular name. Some of the 
Dogwoods and Willows are very beautiful in the winter 
landscape, particularly Cornus alba and Salix vitellina. 
The young stems are brilliantly coloured, and to obtain 
the finest effects it is necessary to cut down the plants 
each spring to force the development of fresh shoots. 

Items of Winter Work. — Every possessor of a garden 
has realised how, after a few sunny days in early spring, 
trees and shrubs and plants seem to start rapidly into 
growth, and how so many tasks appear to need carrying 
out at once. Now is the time to take steps to prevent 
such a contingency. Dead and useless shoots and old 

98 



December — Making Plans 

stems may be cut from old rambler Roses, and insecure 
posts and trellises ought to be made firm, or replaced 
by new ones, the bases of the latter being tarred or 
creosoted before use. Turf may be laid while the weather 
is mild, and, if the ground is not too wet, lawns ought 
to be rolled frequently. The name of many a plant has 
been lost because no label was available at the time 
of planting, and, as unpainted ones are useless, it is wise 
to take time by the forelock and have some prepared. 
Owing to the extraordinary multiplication of names of 
flowers, or varieties of flowers, that has occurred within 
recent years, the use of inconspicuous labels is essential. 
Various kinds of labels are obtainable, yet even now 
there is nothing much more satisfactory, for low-growing 
plants, than the 6-inch white painted, wooden label, 
on which the name remains legible for a long time. But 
one may purchase metal labels, on which any given name 
is embossed, or those of zinc. For shrubs or trees the 
metal labels are most suitable, since they are practically 
indestructible. 

The pruning of certain shrubs may well be carried 
out before the garden wakes fully from its sleep and 
other work makes heavy demands on the time of the 
gardener. Many shrvibs need no regular pruning — such, 
for example, as the vigorous kinds of Mock Orange 
(Philadelphus), many of the Barberries, Azalea, Rhodo- 
dendron, and Flowering Currant — but even in these cases 
dead and weak branches ought to be removed, and the 
present is a suitable time to attend to them. Shrubs 
that should be pruned in early spring comprise the 
Jackmani, lanuginosa and viticella Clematises, the white 
summer Jessamine, the red- and yellow-stemmed Willows 
the red-stemmed Dogwood (Cornus sibirica), the white- 
stemmed Brambles, the golden-leaved Elder and Hydran- 
gea paniculata. Among shrubs that must not be pruned 
until they have blossomed are the yellow winter Jessa- 
mine, Forsythia, and the spring-flowering Spiraeas. 

99 



Round the Year in the Garden 

Wireworm. — Wire worm is one of the most trouble- 
some ground pests the gardener has to deal with. It 
is destructive to Carnations, Wallflowers, Pinks, Violas 
and Pansies, many vegetables, particularly root crops, 
and numerous other plants. The grubs bore into the 
stem just below the ground level, and are easily recog- 
nised by their bright yellow colouring and by the hard 
wire-like character of their skins. They are the grubs of 
various skipjack, or click beetles, so called because they 
have the power of leaping; as this is done a clicking 
noise is made. Wireworms are commonly caught by 
means of traps placed 1 or 2 inches beneath the surface ; 
all sorts of things have been recommended as likely baits 
to attract them — sliced Potatoes, Carrots, Turnips, 
Lettuce leaves, etc., but it is doubtful if anything is so 
efficacious as rape cake, of which they are very fond. 
Each of the baits ought to be examined daily, and for 
the purpose of its easy location a piece of stick is used, 
one end inserted in the soil, the other end remaining 
above ground. Many may be got rid of if a look out is 
kept when the groimd is dug. Throwing up the soil 
roughly in winter, thus exposing a greater surface, is also 
advisable, for birds are then likely to find many of them. 
In spring, some weeks in advance of sowing or planting, 
common salt may be used at the rate of 2 oz. per square 
yard, while nitrate of soda is also distasteful to them. 
Various proprietary powders such as Vaporite or Kilo- 
grub are convenient remedies. Fresh turf is often 
infested with these destructive grubs, and careful search 
should be made for them before it is used. 

In the Greenhouse 

The warm greenhouse is gay now with winter- 
flowering Begonias, Zonal Pelargoniums or Geraniums, 
Perpetual-flowering Carnations, Freesias, Roman Hya- 
cinths, Primulas, Chrysanthemums and Paper White 

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(Pale mauve with pink shading) 




A CHARMING PINK STONFXROP (SEDUM PILOSUM) 




CROCUS IMPERATI ALBIDUS— A SHOWY SPRING FLOWER 



December — Making Plans 

Narcissi, to mention a few of the most important of 
seasonable flowers. The way to have them bright 
throughout as long a season as possible is to keep the 
atmosphere dry, to admit a little air every day when- 
ever the weather allows of this being done, and to give 
water to the roots only when the soil is fairly dry. It 
is said that if a little ammonia is placed in a bowl of 
water in the greenhouse, the flowers suffer no ill effects 
from fog, and all whose gardening is carried on within 
the area of smoky fogs know how liable they are to 
be spoilt. The Zonal Geraniums, among the most 
brilliant of winter flowers, are quite easy to grow 
from cuttings taken in March. They, together with the 
Perpetual - flowering Carnations, need only a minimum 
temperature of 55*. These two groups of flowers offer 
remarkable variety of colouring, and no warm green- 
house need be dull at this season, especially if a few 
early bulbs were potted in September. The yellow- 
flowered Primula floribunda, its relative Primula 
kewensis, and the Star-flowered Chinese Primulas are 
delightfully easy to grow from seed sown in spring if 
one has a cool frame in which to keep them during 
summer. 

It is time to jjut in a few cuttings of Perpetual 
Carnations if one wishes to have flowers next autumn ; 
plants for spring - blooming are grown from cuttings 
inserted in early spring. They form roots best in a 
shallow box, filled with silver sand, covered with glass 
and placed over the hot-water pipes. So far as concerns 
next winter's display of the other flowers named, it is 
not yet time to make preparations ; the reader may 
enjoy them to the full, undisturbed by the gardening 
bogy of " looking forward." Chrysanthemums are, 
however, an exception, and if it is desired to grow large 
blooms, or form specimen plants, cuttings should be 
taken as they become ready. Some of the old plants, 
the stems of which have been cut down, have a number 

lOI 



Round the Year in the Garden 

of young shoots at the base. If these are taken off 
just below the soil level, inserted singly in small pots 
filled with sandy soil, and placed beneath a handlight 
in the greenhouse, they will form roots without difficulty. 
Care should be taken to wipe the moisture from inside the 
glass each morning, and to keep the soil only slightly moist. 

I often wonder why more people do not grow specimen 
Chrysanthemums, those big bushes bearing dozens, even 
scores, of blooms ; they are very handsome and really 
not difficult. It is important to make an early start 
with the cuttings, and now is the time ; then they will 
have a long season in which to form the numerous stems 
required to make a satisfactory specimen. The Chrys- 
anthemum is an accommodating plant, and innumerable 
stems may be created by continuing to remove the 
points of existing ones. The earlier the cuttings are 
put in, the greater the number of stems it is possible 
to obtain. A few years ago remarkable specimen Chrys- 
anthemums were to be seen at exhibitions, plants that 
were grown from year to year and produced hundreds 
of blooms. One does not often see them now. 

Plants in a frame, such as Cineraria, Primula, Calceo- 
laria, need very careful watering, otherwise the leaves 
will "damp off." A temperature of from 45° to 50° is 
high enough for these. Those who have not yet potted 
bulbs for spring flowering may still do so with very 
fair prospects of success. So accommodating are ordinary 
kinds that they may be potted and placed on the stage 
of the cold greenhouse and allowed to form roots there, 
instead of being plunged in ashes. The latter method is 
no doubt the best, but it is perhaps worth while pointing 
out an alternative and less exacting way to those who 
are content with ordinarily good flowers. Lilies that 
have been potted within the last few weeks, or that 
may be potted now, need scarcely any water during the 
winter months, providing they are, as they ought to 
be, in a frame or greenhouse, safe from frost. 

1 02 



December — Making Plans 

Roses from Seed. — New Roses are commonly ob- 
tained from seed saved from flowers that were cross- 
fertilised by artificial means. For this purpose Roses 
are usually grown in the greenhouse ; the flowers then 
open early and the seeds become thoroughly ripened. 
Seeds from fruits that have ripened on Roses out of 
doors are not so reliable as those obtained from plants 
grown under glass ; nevertheless it is possible to raise 
seedlings from some of them, and amateurs will find the 
work full of interest. Seedlings, even from the same pod 
of seed, show extraordinary variation, and there is 
always the chance that one may obtain a really good 
new Rose. Rose growing from seed is not very easy. 
The pods are gathered, each with a piece of stalk 
attached, and are at once placed in pots of moist sand, 
the stalk being embedded to its full depth. Small flower- 
pots are prepared by being drained with a few crocks 
covered with moss, and filled with sifted sandy loam. 
The pods are broken and the seeds are sown at once, 
about ^ an inch deep ; the soil is moistened by placing 
the pots in a bowl of water and keeping them there 
until the moisture rises to the surface. The seeds are 
covered with glass, placed in a greenhouse temperature 
of 45°, and are moistened when necessary. As the seed- 
lings show through the soil, the glass covering is removed 
and they are placed in a light position in the greenhouse. 
Even after the seedlings have appeared the grower is not 
out of the wood, for when about 2 inches high the little 
plants have an unfortunate way of collapsing. The 
conditions most likely to ensure their steady progress 
are a regular night temperature of from 50° to 55°, very 
careful watering, and ventilating in such a way that 
draughts are avoided. 

Pruning the Vine. — It is easier to grow Gi'apes in a 
vinery devoted solely to their cultivation than to 
attempt them in a greenhouse that has to accom- 
modate half - hardy plants during winter. The latter 

1 03 



Round the Year in the Garden 

may be accomplished with greater or less success, of 
which the degree depends chiefly upon the temperature 
maintained. If the Vine is to carry good crops of well- 
ripened Grapes it must have perfect rest in winter ; this 
can be given only by exposing the Vines to air after 
the leaves have fallen. The Vine is not tender ; it will 
grow out of doors in this country, though the weather 
conditions are rarely sufiQciently favourable to enable 
the fruit to ripen. When grown under glass it should 
have all the fresh air possible throughout winter, and 
the ventilators should never be closed except during 
severe frost. When the greenhouse contains a collection 
of half - hardy plants a compromise must be made, and 
one has to arrange for a temperature that will protect 
the plants while not exciting the Vine into growth. 
Few amateurs seem to prune their Vines properly; it 
is not at all uncommon to see the trellis crowded with 
long, weakly side shoots that have been scarcely 
shortened from one year to another. Such Vines 
quickly deteriorate; though they may continue to bear 
fruit for years, the berries are small and rarely colour 
properly. The bunches of Grapes are produced by the 
fresh green growths of summer ; and these are vigorous 
enough to bear good bunches only when the Vines are 
severely pruned in winter. The side shoots, or laterals 
as they are called, of the past summer's growth — those 
that bore the last crop of Grapes — should be cut back to 
within two buds of their base ; perhaps only half an inch 
of each shoot may be left. If both buds start into growth 
in spring one should be rubbed off as soon as it is 
possible to distinguish which of them bears the embryo 
bunch; this can be done when the little shoot is 1 or 
2 inches long. If the laterals are hard pruned in this 
way each winter, they make progress only at the rate 
of half an inch or an inch each year, and the pruned 
Vine appears as merely a thick stem, with protuberances 
or spurs here and there, throvighout its full length. 

104 



December — Making Plans 

In the Fruit Garden 

Cleansing Fruit Trees. — The simplest method of 
cleansing fruit trees is by spraying with caustic wash 
during the winter months. This not only gets rid of 
moss and lichen, but has the effect also of lessening the 
number of insect pests. Those who do not care to go 
to the trouble of mixing a wash are advised to obtain 
a preparation called Sodaliu, which may be had from 
nurserymen. In using a caustic wash it is necessary 
to wear gloves and old clothes, and to take care that 
none of the liquid falls on the face. The best method of 
application is by means of a proper sprayer; this is, in 
fact, the only practicable way of dealing with large trees. 
Small fruit bushes may be treated with a syringe having 
a nozzle that throws out a fine spray. It is important 
that the liquid be made to reach all parts of the tree, 
every nook and crevice, so that disease germs and insect 
pests may be destroyed. The use of caustic wash is 
especially beneficial in the case of old orchards, where 
the fruit trees have been neglected for years. All 
foreign matter is cleared off, and after the spraying is 
finished the stems and branches look as though they 
had been polished. Spraying should be done in December 
and again in January. An effective caustic wash is 
prepared by placing 1 lb. of caustic soda in water and 
1 lb. of potash in water, separately, and leaving both 
until dissolved. Then they are mixed together and ^ lb. 
of treacle is added. After the mixture has been 
thoroughly stirred, enough water is added to make 10 
gallons of liquid. It is not wise to spray fruit trees 
with caustic wash more than once every three or four 
years ; the practice of spraying annually with this wash 
has been found to be harmful. 

Pruning Fruit Trees. — The work of chief importance 
among fruit trees is that of pruning ; this may be carried 
out at any time from the middle of December until 
the end of January. It must be admitted that this is 

10=; 



Round the Year in the Garden 

rather a complex subject, if one considers it in all its 
bearings. It is often said that both professional and 
amateur growers make mistakes in pruning, though 
their methods are usually quite different. The former 
frequently prunes too severely, while the latter rarely 
prunes sufficiently hard. All fruit trees cannot be 
pruned by rule of thumb, because the growth varies 
according to the stock upon which they are budded, 
and the soil and position in which they are grown, 
while individual varieties differ in their behaviour under 
similar conditions. I believe that difficulties of pruning 
are often due to incorrect treatment of the trees during 
the first few years of their life. If amateurs would 
take note of those that show a tendency to make exces- 
sively strong shoots during the first two or three years 
after planting, and lift them in autumn — then cutting 
back strong roots and replanting nearer the surface — 
I feel sure they would have done much to establish 
fruitful trees. Fruit trees that make shoots of moderate 
growth only, bear the best crops of fruit. The Apple 
is obtainable either upon the Crab or upon the Paradise 
stock. Standards and those intended for orchard planting 
are usually budded upon the Crab, and bushes for 
planting in cultivated soil are on the Paradise stock. 
The former will develop into bigger trees, but the latter 
will bear satisfactory crops of fruit first, and for the 
amateur's garden are therefore to be recommended. 
It is not much use planting Apples " worked " on the 
Crab stock in one's garden, and then to attempt by 
severe root and branch pruning to curb their naturally 
vigorous growth, for it will only end in disaster. They 
must be allowed to grow freely during the first few 
years, though the shoots must be shortened annually by 
about one-third until a properly balanced set of branches 
is obtained. Then, in later years, they will, in suitable 
conditions, bear good crops of fruit. Apples on the 
Paradise stock come into good bearing within a few 

1 06 



December — Making Plans 

years of planting, providing excessive growth has been 
checked by lifting the trees each autumn during the 
first few seasons. 

The pruning of established standards and other forms 
of Apples on the Crab stock is practically limited to 
keeping the branches disposed thinly ; to shortening the 
leading growths by about one-third, for the purpose 
of inducing the buds to break into growth throughout 
the whole length; and in cutting back side shoots to 
within two buds of the base. Care should be taken 
to cut out, not to cut back, shoots that are unlikely to 
form suitable branches, or if there is not room to 
allow them to develop as fruit spurs. Unless this is 
done, sooner or later the trees will become full of small 
growths which are not only useless in themselves but do 
harm to the remaining branches by depriving them of 
their share of light and air. 

In dealing with bush trees on the Paradise, or dwarfing 
stock, as it is called, similar methods are practised — 
namely, keeping the branches thinly disposed, annually 
cutting off one-third of the previous summer's growth, 
and pruning the side shoots hard, to within two buds 
of the base, to induce the formation of fruit spurs. Some 
Apples bear fruits freely on the previous summer's 
shoots as well as on spurs on the older branches, and 
it is wise, if there is room, to shorten them only 
slightly instead of cutting them hard. 

The pruning of Pears is even simpler than that of 
Apples, for if summer and winter pruning is carried 
out systematically fruit spurs form freely throughoxit 
the full length of the branches. It is necessary to keep 
the latter wide apart, say 16 inches at least, so no more 
than are required must be allowed to develop. Old Pear 
trees often become full of thin twiggy shoots that never 
bear a blossom and prevent the full exposure to light and 
air of the chief branches. They ought all to be cut out ; 
to shorten them merely has the effect of inducing fresh 

107 



Round the Year in the Garden 

groAvth, which, makes matters worse than ever. The 
winter pruning consists simply in cutting back, to within 
two buds of the base, the side shoots tnat were shortened 
in summer, and in cvitting off about one-third of the past 
season's growth at the ends of the branches. This 
routine work, however, is of little value unless the 
branches are thinly disposed. The assurance of this is 
one of the chief articles of faith in pruning fruit trees. 

The Plum, like the Apple, bears fruit both on spurs- 
stunted side growths — and on shoots of the iDrevious 
summer's growth. Thus, T\^hile the orthodox summer and 
winter pruning is practised, care should also be taken 
of fresh growths wherever there is room for them without 
crowding the existing branches. Similar remarks apply 
to the Sweet Cherries, though fruit spurs form on the 
branches so freely as a rule that the previous summer's 
growths may be cut back in the usual way, to two buds. 
In dealing with Morello Cherries, Peaches and Nectarines 
a totally different procedure is required ; in these cases 
the shoots that have produced fruit are cut out and the 
fresh growths of the past summer take their places. 

Red and White Currants bear their fruits on spurs, 
and the method of pruning is the orthodox, namely, to 
shorten to within one or two buds of the base all side 
growths. The terminal shoots, those that continue the 
development of the branches, are shortened by about 
one-third. Gooseberries fruit freely on spurs and on 
shoots that formed during the past summer, so when 
there is room for these they should be allowed to replace 
older shoots. Branches near the ground ought to be cut 
off, for when they become laden with fruits the latter 
are spoilt by soil splashed up during heavy rains. The 
branches must be at such a distance apart that it is 
possible to get one's hands between them conveniently for 
the purpose of gathering the fruits. Cordon Gooseberries 
and Red and White Currants are quite easily dealt with ; 
it is necessary merely to shorten the side shoots to within 

io8 




GOLDEN-RAYED LILY (LILIUM AURATUM) GROWN IN FLOWER-POT 



December — Making Plans 

a bud or two of the base. Black Currants bear the best 
fruit on the past summer's growths, therefore these are 
retained to provide the following year's crop, older ones 
being cut out to make room for them. 

The subject of pruning fruit trees is not so complex 
as it seems. The items of importance are to take steps, by 
lifting and root pruning, to prevent the trees making 
excessive growth during the first few years ; to shorten 
the leading branches by one-third each autumn to force 
all buds to start into growth in spring ; to keep the 
branches thinly disposed ; to cut out worthless and super- 
fluous shoots ; to shorten the side shoots in summer and 
further to prune them in winter. 

Pruning Newly Planted Fruit Trees.~To prune or 
not to prune is the problem that confronts the gardener 
who has planted fruit trees since last October. Some 
growers advise one course, some another, but the weight 
of opinion inclines to the practice of postponing the 
pruning until the second spring. It is argued that if the 
trees are hard pruned now, the growths that will develop 
dviring the coming summer will be of such poor quality 
as to be px'actically useless, owing to the fact that the 
trees have not sufficiently recovered from the disturbance 
to their roots to make normal growth. Thus they will 
be at a disadvantage in a year's time compared with 
those left untouched. The latter will have had time to 
racuperate, and hard pruning in spring, some fifteen or 
sixteen months after planting, will force the basal buds 
into vigorous growth, whereas similar buds on trees 
pruned a year previously will have produced more or 
less useless stems. 

In the Kitchen Garden 

There is not very much to do among the vegetables 
during this month, especially if the ground is wet. If, 
however, it should prove comparatively dry, opportunity 

109 



Round the Year in the Garden 

ought to be taken to dig all vacant plots, throwing the 
soil up roughly, or, better still, in the form of ridges, 
so as to expose it to the weather. Much time will be 
saved later on if a plan is prepared showing the positions 
for the various crops and paying due regard to a proper 
rotation. 

Rotation of Crops. — It is common knowledge that 
vegetable crops thrive best, and are less likely to suffer 
from attacks of various diseases, if grown on fresh ground 
as often as possible, and this should be the first aim of 
the gardener. Vegetables, especially of the Cabbage kind, 
ought not to be grown on the same ground more than 
once in four years. Potatoes, providing they have not 
shown signs of disease, may be planted on the same plot 
year after year, though they too benefit from a change 
of ground. 

The simplest way of ensuring a correct rotation 
in a comparatively small garden is to divide it into 
four sections. The first section, having been dug 
and manured in winter, should be planted in spring 
with Peas, Runner Beans, Celery, Leeks, etc., all of which 
need deep and rich soil. This preparation will ensure 
that the ground is in excellent condition the following 
season for root crops— Beetroot, Carrot, Parsnip, etc. No 
manure should be added for these. Greens of all kinds 
will occupy the plot the next season, the ground having 
been dug and manured in autumn or winter. The fourth 
year this plot may be planted with Potatoes. Having 
once arranged the rotation for the first division of the 
ground, it is a simple matter to dispose of the three 
remaining plots. All one has to do is to plant the second 
plot with the second year's crops of the first plot, which 
in this case are Beetroot, Carrot, etc., and follow with the 
others in rotation. The first crop of the third plot will 
be greens and the first crop of the fourth plot will be 
Potatoes. Thus no crop will be grown upon the same soil 
more often than once in four years. 

no 



December — Making Plans 

The protection of certain crops ought to receive 
attention if they have not ah'eady been made safe — such, 
for example, as Globe Artichoke, Celery, Parsley, etc. 
If Broad Beans were sown last month it is wise to draw 
the soil up to the seedlings, and the same advice applies 
to Peas sown out of doors. To protect Globe Artichokes, 
place straw, leaves or litter round the base of the plants. 
Scatter bracken or straw litter among Celery, first com- 
pleting the earthing if this has not been attended to. 
Tubers of early Potatoes for planting in spring ought to 
be selected and placed on end in shallow boxes in a light 
frost-proof place. Parsley may be protected by means of 
a frame or by placing a rough framework of sticks over 
the plants and throwing a mat over these in case of sharp 
frost. It is necessary to look over the stored roots of 
Carrot, Beetroot, etc., and to remove decaying ones. 



Ill 



JANUARY 

The Passing of Winter 

IT always seems to me that when the New Year dawns, 
those who are unhappily not gardeners must envy 
those who are, if they realise the intense joy and pleasure 
that the turn of the year and its consequent delightful 
anticipations bring. I find it difficult to believe that 
winter has not already passed when New Year's Day 
comes in. The old year has gone and one has to prepare 
in earnest, to plot and plan for the flowers and crops of 
another season. Even if the weather is cold the sun gains 
daily in power and influence ; the spring bulbs begin to 
peep through the soil ; those in pots, even in the cold 
greenhouse, start into growth ; plants and shrubs on 
sheltered walls show signs of fresh life ; the ground begins 
to dry a little. Everywhere the same tale is told, and the 
most pessimistic, if he does not believe winter has gone, 
must realise that spring is coming. How the catalogues 
roll in by every post; they too bid us look forward not 
only hopefully, but speedily. Who starts early will 
achieve the greatest success. It is poor gardening and 
offers little hope of real satisfaction to delay ordering 
seeds until spring is here. Those who order first are first 
served, and it is so much pleasanter to obtain the flowers 
one has decided to grow than to have the list returned 
with " sold out " marked against many items. Part of 
the perennial interest attaching to gardening is due to 
the fact that one may grow some different flowers every 
year, for there are so many from which to choose. Those 
who buy plants in March instead of seeds in January miss 
much of the delight that centres in flower growing. 



January — The Passing of Winter 

Almost any kind may be raised from seed, even such as 
summer bedding i)lants, which are commonly grown from 
cuttings, and perennials, usually increased by division of 
the clumps. Seeds of hardy plants may be sown in 
January in a greenhouse in which a minimum temperature 
of 45° to 50° can be maintained. Early sowing is a great 
advantage, even in the case of plants that will not bloom 
until next year, for by this means strong clumps are 
obtained for permanent planting in autumn ; some 
perennials will bloom in late summer from seed sown 
now. 

Among the Hardy Flowers 

Mistletoe. — The Mistletoe (Viscum album), which 
enjoys wide popularity for the decorative value of its 
berried shoots and their pleasant associations, is a 
parasitic shrub, thriving upon various host trees, 
notably the Apple, Oak, Lime and Poplar. Although, 
when present in quantity, the Mistletoe may do con- 
siderable harm to the trees upon which it grows, one 
may have a bunch or two in the orchard or garden 
mthout prejudice to the welfare of the trees. It is 
not difficult to establish by means of ripe seeds if these 
are now rubbed into the cracks of the bark. It is wise 
to tie a little moss over the seeds to protect them from 
birds, otherwise no further attention is needed. Growth 
is slow for two or three years. Only the white-berried 
kind is seen in this country, but on the Continent red- 
berried Mistletoe is grown. 

The Winter Iris.— Every garden, however small, 
should find a place for the winter-flowering Algerian 
Iris (Iris stylosa); its fragrant lavender-blue blossoms 
open throughout a long season, from late autumn until 
early spring, and are admirable for cutting, provided 
they are gathered in the bud stage. It will not accom- 
modate itself to unsuitable conditions, and those who 
would succeed with its cultivation must be prepared 
I 113 



Round the Year Li the Garden 

to take some pains. In most gardens it needs to be 
planted at the foot of a sunny wall in a well-drained 
border of light loam soil and sand. Perfect drainage 
seems essential, and if the soil is at all clayey it should 
be removed and replaced by a fresh mixture. The most 
suitable time to plant is as soon as the blossoming season 
is past ; if the work is carried out then the chances are 
that the Iris will bloom satisfactorily during the 
following winter. Iris unguicularis is another name 
for this beautiful winter flower, which is a native of 
Algeria. 

Christmas and Lenten Roses. — Most people find 
that their Christmas Roses deteriorate after some years 
in the same place ; the flower stems become stunted 
or are sparsely produced, the blooms are small, and the 
plants generally lack vigour. These failings indicate 
that it is time the clumps w^ere taken up, divided, and 
the best pieces replanted on fresh ground ; if on the 
same site this should be deeply dug and enriched. 
There is some difference of opinion as to the season at 
which it is best to transplant Christmas and Lenten 
Roses ; some gardeners carry out the work in March, others 
in July. Deepi moist soil such as is obtained by thorough 
cultivation and by mixing decayed manure and leaf- 
mould with the ground, should be provided. A half- 
shady position among hardy ferns suits them admirably. 
The Lenten Roses do not seem to be so generally 
grown as the Christmas Roses, perhaps for the reason 
that they do not bloom until later, when flowers are 
less scarce, yet the best kinds, especially the white 
and light coloured ones, are very beautiful. They are 
finer plants than the Christmas Roses, growing more 
vigorously and flowering more freely as a rule ; similar 
treatment is necessary. The named forms are numerous ; 
a selection ought to include olympicus superbus, white, 
caucasicus albus, Gertrude Jekyll, white, and roseus 
punctatus, spotted with rose. 

114 






"^mi 



'■■r'P'-W-ij ■■■*! 



^::*5.ir 


*l 














%M 



January — The Passing of Winter 

Hardy Primulas. — During recent years some very 
beautiful hardy Primulas have been introduced, chiefly 
from Western China, and now this genus is of the 
gi'eatest value from the gardener's point of view. 
Fortunately most hardy Primulas are easy to grow 
from seed, and everyone should give them a trial. If 
seeds are sown now in the greenhouse or frame, or in 
pots out of doors in April, the seedlings will have 
become sturdy little plants by the avitumn, and may 
then be planted out where, during the following and 
subsequent years, they are to bloom. All those to be 
named will thrive in a somewhat shaded position, and 
a compost of loam, leaf soil, and sand is suitable, though 
for such as denticulata, cashmiriana, and frondosa 
ordinary loamy soil will do. One of the most distinct 
of these hardy Primulas is littoniaua ; the flower 
clusters towards the top of the stem are reddish at 
first and finally purple, and the association of these 
two shades produces a bizarre and striking effect. A 
packet of mixed seeds of the Japanese Primrose (Primula 
japonica) will yield flowers in many and various shades 
of colour, from white to crimson; Primvila pulverulenta 
is a closely allied form distinguished by white, mealy 
stems ; both are remarkably handsome and are well 
suited to a shady border of loamy or peaty soil. Primula 
frondosa is a vigorous form of the bird's-eye Primrose 
(Primula fariuosa) — itself not nearly so satisfactory 
from the cultivator's point of view — that will thrive 
in moist soil in sunshine or shade ; it is a dainty plant 
with whitish leaves and rose-coloiired blooms. Primula 
Forresti is a vigorous, yellow-blossomed sort. Primula 
Beesiana, too, is of strong growth, and bears tall, erect 
racemes of crimson purple flowers. Primula Bulleyana 
is very flne, a tall, vigorous plant resembling Primula 
japonica in growth and bearing orange-coloured blooms. 
Others that present no difficulty to the amateur are 
rosea, an exquisite Himalayan Primula with intense 

"5 



Round the Year in the Garden 

rose-coloured blooms, an ideal little plant for a shady, 
peaty corner ; denticulata and its variety cashmiriana, 
two strong-growing easy sorts having rounded heads 
of lilac-coloured flowers, and cortusoides, with pretty 
leaves and bunches of rosy blossom. Primula capitata, 
mauve, and cockburniana, orange red, are two especi- 
ally attractive sorts ; they are not usually long lived, 
and therefore best treated as biennials and raised from 
seed each year. 

Lawns soon become thin and patchy if they are 
not nourished occasionally. The present is an excellent 
time to apply a light dressing of decayed manure, 
leaving it on the surface until March. The finer 
particles will have been washed into the ground by 
then, and the rougher portion may be raked off. Fail- 
ing the yard manure, a dressing of bonemeal or wood 
ashes may be given. Bare patches can only be satis- 
factorily dealt with by forking up the ground in those 
places, sowing seed and covering it with sifted soil. 
It is too early to sow seed, but a dressing of manure 
will assist considerably in providing a satisfactory 
" bed " for the grass seeds. 

The replanting and rearrangement of flower borders 
may be carried out at this season, except during frost. 
Such plants as Michaelmas Daisy, Perennial Sunflower, 
Phlox, Helenium, and other vigorous kinds, should be 
taken up, divided and replanted, only the outer portions 
of large clumps being used again ; the inner portions 
are invariably weak and useless, and should be thrown 
away. 

Seeds to Order. — Seeds of so many lovely flowers 
are now obtainable, and their raising is in most cases 
so simple, that there is scarcely any excuse for failure 
to have a brilliant show of summer bloom. It may 
be helpful to readers with gardens of moderate size if 
I mention the chief seeds I have selected to sow for 
summer blossom. Among hardy annuals I would not 

ii6 



January — The Passing of Winter 

be without the two Calliopsis (or Coreopsis) Drummondi, 
yellow, and tinctoria, yellow and brown (they are very 
free flowering and most useful for cutting) ; Love in a 
Mist (Nigella Miss Jekyll) ; Candytuft ; some of the 
annual Chrysanthemums ; the brilliant red Flax (Linum 
grandiflorvim rubrum) ; Clarkia; the lovely rose Mallow 
(Lavatera rosea) ; the summer Cypress (Kochia trico- 
phylla); the dwarf white Alyssum ; Poppies ; Mignonette ; 
the gold and brown Salpiglossis ; the charming little 
Toadflax (Linaria maroccana) ; the rosy Larkspur ; 
annual Gaillardia ; the Jacobaeas, with blossoms in red, 
rose, and other shades. One can scarcely dispense with 
any of these. Collinsia bicolor is very showy ; so, too, 
are the Californian Poppy (Eschscholtzia) and the 
Portulaca for a hot, sunny spot. Of perennials every- 
one ought to grow Delphinium and Lupin in their 
many and brilliant shades of colour ; Clirysanthemum 
maximum (the Shasta Daisy) ; the lavender-coloured 
Scabious (caucasica) ; Erigeron speciosus, aurantiacus, 
and others — all showy and free blooming ; the exquisite 
blue Flax (Linum narbonense) ; Coreopsis grandiflora, 
and the Dropmore Auchusa (both usually treated as 
biennials) ; Campanulas in many sorts ; Oriental Poppies ; 
border Carnations and Pinks ; all these and others 
should be included in the seed order. For the rock 
garden I am growing various Primulas; the alpine 
Poppy (Papaver alpinum) ; Tunica Saxifraga ; (Enothera 
missouriensis (a delightful big-blossomed trailing Even- 
ing Primrose) ; and Erigeron mucronatus (all four of which 
will bloom the first year) ; dwarf Campanulas ; Linum 
flavum (the yellow Flax) ; Edelweiss (which is slow) ; 
Rock Rose, or Helianthemum (which is fast once it has 
got over the baby stage) ; Silvery Saxifrages (which 
try one's utmost patience, yet keep one living in hope) ; 
^^thionema, or Lebanon Candytuft (of which the most 
beautiful is the pink-blossomed armenum) ; and so I 
might continue. Fair success with those I have men- 

117 



Round the Year in the Garden 

tioned will ensure a satisfactory harvest of blossom 
during the coming summer and promise of further 
delights next year. 

Making a Paved Path. — The advantages of a paved 
path are many, while the only disadvantage is the high 
initial cost, and this may be lessened by using bricks 
instead of stone. A paved path is ideal in a little 
formal garden, in the Rock or Rose garden, and between 
borders of hardy flowers. Unlike that of grass, its 
charm is enhanced w^hen the edging plants spread and 
creep over the margin, while the neutral tint of the 
stone associates perfectly with the bright colours of 
the flowers. In forming a path of this kind, the first 
essential is to make the stones even, though not neces- 
sarily level, and this can be accomplished only by 
setting them in some suitable material such as sand, 
sifted ashes, fine soil, or cement. The use of the latter 
precludes planting between the chinks with low-growing 
flowers unless spaces are left especially for them, and 
it is not necessary except when a broad terrace is being 
laid, where an absolutely level surface is desirable. 
Care ought to be taken that the edges of some of the 
stones do not rise above those of others, or the path 
becomes objectionable and even dangerous. The stones 
must, of course, be of irregular shape and of varying 
size, otherwise the path may show a formal design, 
and thus lose much of its charm. As March is an excel- 
lent time for putting out small plants in the chinks, 
the constructive work may well be undertaken now. 

In the Greenhouse 

The roots of Dahlia, Gloxinia, Tuberous Begonia, and 
others stored for the winter, do not always pass through 
this period satisfactorily, especially in a small green- 
house. A frequent cause of failure is that of placing 
the pots or boxes containing the roots beneath the green- 

ii8 



January — The Passing of Winter 

house staging in such a position that water given to 
the plants above falls on them; if the pots are placed 
on their side this trouble is avoided. The roots of 
Gloxinia and Tuberous Begonia may, towards the end 
of the month, be taken out of the pots (the old soil 
being removed) and started into growth again for 
another season. It is best to place them in shallow 
boxes filled with leaf -mould, not wholly covering them ; 
the soil is kept fairly moist and the minunum tempera- 
ture should be about 60°. The old roots of Canna, or 
Indian Shot, should be divided, the portions being re- 
potted separately. They will form good plants by 
summer. 

On Sowing Seeds. — Most amateurs sow seeds too deeply, 
with the result that germination is often unsatisfactory. 
A rough guide may be given by stating that seeds should 
be sown at a depth equal to twice their diameter. One 
would not of course carry out this recommendation with 
mathematical precision, but it may serve to indicate how 
deeply they ought to be covered. It follows that tiny 
seeds are not covered at all; those of Candytuft, for 
example, need but an eighth of an inch or so of soil 
above them. Warmth, moisture and some air are 
essential to germination ; if seeds are buried toe 
deeply they either decay or remain dormant. Greater 
care is required in seed sowing under glass than out of 
doors, for the gardener is responsible for the temperature 
and the application of moisture, which, out of doors, are 
largely beyond his control. It is essential to keep the 
soil uniformly moist, and this is accomplished by immers- 
ing the flower-pot or flower-pan to the rim in water for a 
minute or two, as soon as the surface of the soil looks 
somewhat dry. The moisture then rises to the surface, 
wetting the soil through without disturbing the seeds. 
Covering the seeds with glass and the glass with paper 
tends to keep the soil moist and so obviates the need for 
watering frequently. 

119 



Round the Year in the Garden 

Old and New Seeds.— The question of the value 
of old seeds is one that arises at this season. Generally 
it may be said that new seeds are more reliable than 
old ones, and for that reason it is not wise wholly to 
trust to the latter. Some seeds retain their vitality 
much longer than others, and no one seems to know 
how long seeds will keep in a sound condition. Doubtless 
it depends largely upon where and in what manner 
they have been stored. Most gardeners have had the 
experience, at some time or another, of digging deeply 
a plot of ground that has lain undisturbed for years, 
and have been surprised to find a crop of strange weeds 
spring up. Some growers prefer old seeds, for example, 
of Melon, Cucumber and Sweet Pea, and assert that 
they germinate better than fresh ones, and one has 
often heard of various seeds which, having been kept 
over several winters, gave quite a satisfactory crop of 
seedlings. But equally unsatisfactory reports are given 
of the results following the use of old seeds, and it is 
not safe to trust to them altogether. There is, however, 
no reason why one should not sow any old seeds one 
happens to possess, for, if they germinate, the plants 
ought to prove quite satisfactory. If old seeds alone 
are relied upon, it is quite likely that some will 
disappoint. 

Flowers to Raise from Seed. — In a greenhouse in 
which the night temperature does not fall below about 
60° seeds may be sown of Geranium, Fuchsia, Pentstemon, 
Perpetual and Border Carnations, Tuberous Begonia, 
Snapdragon and Hollyhock. The Border Carnations are 
not likely to blossom this year, but the others will 
develop into flowering plants by summer and the Per- 
petual Carnations in winter. Hollyhocks are now 
treated as annuals by many gardeners, and from seed 
sown this month in the greenhouse a first-rate display 
is obtained. Grevillea robusta, know as the Avistralian 
Silky Oak, is an attractive and easily grown plant, 

1 20 



January — The Passing of Winter 

suitable for the greenhouse, for the summer garden, 
or for rooms. It is readily raised from seed, which 
may be sown now. The plants grow several feet high, 
and if carefully watered retain their graceful leaves to 
the base of the stem. Ornamental -leaved Coleus are 
raised from seed sown at this season, so too are Lobelia 
and Freesia. Seed of innumerable rock and border plants 
is obtainable, and if sown now in a greenhouse tem- 
perature of about 50'^, a splendid stock of seedlings will 
be available for permanent planting out of doors in 
early autumn. 

It is not possible within the space at disposal to refer 
individually to the innumerable hardy flowers which can 
be raised from seed early in the year, for there are few 
exceptions. There are some, however, to which special 
reference may be made. One of the most delightful 
flowers I have discovered (I say discovered, for I have 
rarely seen it in other gardens) is an apricot-coloured 
Poppy called Papaver rupifragum. It is of somewhat 
spreading growth, and thi'oughout the whole summer 
continues to produce its exquisite blossoms on slender 
stalks some 12 to 18 inches high. It will bloom in summer 
from seed sown now. I grow it on the rockery, where 
it makes a most delightful show ; self-sown seedlings 
subsequently spring up in all sorts of places and ensure 
flowers for another year. Or to make assurance doubly 
sure, one has only to gather a few pods late in summer, 
sow the seeds in fine soil in a box, and the seedlings come 
up like Cress. They ought to be transplanted or potted, 
kept in a cold frame during winter, and planted out in 
spring. A pretty cream-coloured Snapdragon for the 
rockery (Antirrhinum asarinum) will bloom in summer 
from seed sown now, so too will Tunica Saxifraga, a small 
plant that bears a profusion of pale rose blossom, and 
Vittadinia triloba (Erigeron mucronatus), or Mexican 
Daisy, of low growth and producing Daisy-like blossoms 
for months together. Oriental Poppies, Lupins and Red 

121 



Round the Year in the Garden" 

Valerian are among the border perennials that blossom 
well the first summer from seed sown now in warmth. 

Dahlias are quite easily grown from seed sown now, 
and various kinds may be tried, Single, Cactus, Pompon, 
Decorative, Paeony-flowered, Collarette, etc. The Single, 
Decorative, Collarette and Paeony-flowered sorts are 
most satisfactory in the garden, for they yield an 
abundance of flowers. The seeds of the double var- 
ieties will produce a proportion of single flowers, and 
among the single and semi-double sorts there will be 
blossoms of faulty and unattractive colouring ; but, if 
good seed is obtained, disappointing flowers will be few. 
Chrysanthemums come excellently from seed, and the 
plants produce an astonishing display of blossom in 
autumn ; they may be grown in pots throughout the 
summer, a method that necessitates much labour in 
watering, or, in May, they can be planted out of doors, 
repotting to take place in September. Verbenas are 
charming plants to grow from seed, and there are now 
varieties of distinct and pleasing colouring, packets of 
which can be obtained separately. Pansies and Violas 
for summer show may be raised from seed now. Espe- 
cial attention should be directed to Viola cornuta and its 
variety papilio ; they yield a profusion of flowers through- 
out a long season, providing the spent ones are picked off 
to prevent the formation of seeds. The blooms have not 
that rounded form characteristic of the tufted bedding 
Pansies ; they are narrower and more deeply cleft. Petu- 
nias are not favourites with every garden lover, yet the 
plants are useful owing to their long season of bloom, and, 
if seeds of a good strain are obtained, the colours are very 
showy. 

The Winter Cherry (Solanum capsicastrum) is a bright 
little plant for the greenhouse or room during "svinter, 
when laden with its brilliant orange-red berries. Seeds 
sown now will provide decorative plants by the end of 
the year. Those already possessing plants should cut 

122 



January — The Passing of Winter 

back the shoots ; when fresh growths are about 2 inches 
long they are ready to be inserted as cuttings. One of 
the finest plants for sub-tropical gardening, for which 
purpose those of handsome foliage are chiefly used, is the 
Castor Oil plant (Ricinus). This grows 4 or 5 feet high, 
and has large, finely-formed, bronze-coloured leaves that 
are most ornamental. Seeds should be sown without 
delay. Canna, or Indian Shot, though usually increased 
by division of the roots, is not difficult to raise from seed, 
providing this is soaked in water for a day or two previous 
to sowing ; the covering is hard, and unless precaution is 
taken to moisten the seeds thoroughly, germination is 
likely to be slow. Bottom heat is also advisable, such, 
for instance, as is provided by placing the boxes of seeds 
on the hot-water pipes. 

Sowing Sweet Peas. — Those who wish to grow the 
very finest Sweet Peas, having stems 15 to 18 inches 
long, and not less than three or four blooms on a stem, 
shouild sow the seeds within the next week or two. 
Autumn sowing probably gives the best of all Sweet 
Peas, but, failing this, late January or early February 
is the best time to start. The seeds are often sown 
five in a 5-inch flower -pot, though it is preferable to 
put one seed in a small pot, for when planting out is 
practised there is less danger of damaging the roots. 
A temperature of SO'' is sufficient to ensure germination 
within two or three weeks ; some growers chip the 
outer covering ; others soak the seeds in warm water 
with the object of hastening germination. It does not 
always follow that because a seed is small it will produce 
an inferior plant; seeds of the lavender-coloured varie- 
ties, for example, are generally small and of shrivelled 
appearance. Readers not possessing a greenhouse or 
frame may place the pots containing the seeds under 
the shelter of a wall ; they will be rather later than 
those so^vn under glass, though probably as good. 
While the seedlings are progressing, opportunity should 

123 



Round the Year in the Garden 

be taken to prepare the ground, and it must be culti- 
vated really well to secure satisfactory Sweet Peas. 

There is probably no flower so disappointing when 
it fails as the Sweet Pea; the plants have such a 
miserable, sickly appearance that one longs to pull 
them up ; the blooms are small and the stems so short 
as to be useless for cutting, and this is essentially a 
flower for gathering. The soil should be dug not less 
than 2 feet deep ; if 3 feet deep so much the better. 
The bottom of the trench is the place for decayed 
manure, which is of great benefit, especially in a dry 
summer, inasmuch as the roots find both moisture and 
nourishment in soil thus enriched. In the upper 12 
inches bonemeal and soot may be freely sprinkled ; 
yard manure ought not to be within reach of the 
roots of the seedlings. The latter will be ready for 
planting out of doors about the second week in April ; 
as soon as they show through the soil they need to be 
exposed freely to fresh air, so that sturdy little plants 
may result. Those who grow for exhibition restrict the 
number of stems on each jilant to one, two, or three, 
according to the vigour of the variety. When about 
6 inches high the central stem is pinched off and two or 
three of the basal shoots are trained as stems. 

There are some very beautiful varieties among 
modern sorts, and the following are an excellent 
dozen : R. F. Felton, lavender ; Maud Holmes, crimson ; 
Clara Curtis, palest yellow or cream ; Royal Purple, 
purple ; Hercules, pink ; Rosabelle, rose ; Doris Usher, 
cream pink ; John Ingman, carmine ; Afterglow, reddish- 
mauve ; Edna May Improved, white ; Elsie Herbert, white 
with rose edge ; and President, orange red. 

Freesia from Seed. — The fragrant Freesia is com- 
monly regarded as a winter flower, and when grown 
in the usual way, from bulbs potted in July and August, 
the blooms open from Christmas onwards. But if seeds 
are sown now the plants will be in flower in August 

124 



January — The Passing of Winter 

aud September. The proceeding is not a difficult one, 
providing a greenhouse having a temperature of 55" 
or 60° is available. The seeds are sown in sifted sandy- 
soil, five or six in a 6-inch pot, or alternatively in a 
smaller pot to be repotted subsequently. It is best to 
arrange so that the seedlings are not disturbed much ; 
otherwise they are apt to be checked. For this reason 
it is preferable to sow the seeds direct in the 6-inch 
pots in which the plants will bloom. In such a case, 
however, most careful watering is necessary until the 
Freesias become well rooted. Probably unskilled growers 
would do well to sow seeds in smaller pots, and, later 
on, to place each potful in a larger pot without dis- 
turbing the individuals. By varying the time of seed- 
sowing one may have Freesias in bloom at different 
seasons of the year. 

Greenhouse Primulas. — One of the prettiest of the 
newer Primulas is that known as malacoides ; it is 
only half hardy, but an admirable little plant for the 
greenhouse, yielding, as it does, a profusion of pale 
lilac - coloured blossom on innumerable slender stems. 
It is now in full blossom, and now is the time to sow 
seeds. Amateurs having a slightly - heated greenhouse 
can scarcely fail to be pleased with it ; a winter tem- 
perature of 50* is suitable. The brilliant golden-yellow 
Primula Kewensis, invaluable for winter blooming, too, 
should be sown now, and room might well be found 
also for Primula floribunda, one of the parents of the 
Kew Primrose ; it is quite a small plant, and one may 
grow excellent little specimens in 4 - inch - wide pots. 
The small yellow flowers are produced very freely in 
winter and early spring. The white - leaved Primula 
verticillata, bearing lemon - yellow blooms, should be 
sown now to provide flowers early next year. All these 
may be grown in cold frames or even out of doors during 
summer, but they must be brought into the greenhouse 
in early autumn. I have been astonished to find how 

I2q 



Round the Year in the Garden 

hardy the Chinese Primulas are. I have plants blooming 
iu an unheated greenhouse in which several degrees of 
frost have been registered. Primula seed is small, and 
should be sown thinly in well-drained pans of sifted 
soil ; it is covered only with a slight sprinkling of sand. 
A temperature of 50'^ or 55° is high enough to ensure 
germination within a few weeks. 

Perpetual -flowering Carnations.— These are simply 
invaluable to amateurs possessing a greenhouse in 
which a minimum temperature of 50^ can be maintained. 
If seed is sown this month the seedlings will blossom 
next winter. As with Border Carnations, it is neces- 
sary to obtain the best seed, otherwise the flowers will 
be poor, and it is no more trouble to grow good varieties 
than indifferent ones. This, too, is the best time to take 
cuttings to provide plants for next winter and early 
spi'ing. Although the Perpetual - flowering Carnation 
is primarily a greenhouse plant, those that have 
blossomed during winter will continue to do so throughout 
the summer if planted out of doors in May. The cuttings 
take root most readily in pots filled with silver sand 
placed just above the hot- water pipes ; the pots must 
be covered with glass, which ought to be wiped dry at 
least once every day. When roots have formed each 
plant is potted separately in a small pot ; when it is 
about 6 inches high the point is pulled out to cause 
side shoots to form. An excellent selection consists 
of Winsor, rose ; White Perfection, white ; R. F. 
Felton, pink ; Duchess of Devonshire, crimson ; 
Enchantress, pink; Mrs. T. M. Crook, spotted with 
crimson ; Rose Dore, salmon red ; Mikado, heliotrope ; 
Britannia, red ; and Mary Allwood, rose pink. 

In the Fruit Garden 

The pruning of hardy fruit trees has been explained 
in the notes dealing with garden work in December, but 

J26 



January — The Passing of Winter 

may be carried out at any conveuient time between the 
third week of December and the end of January. It is 
not wise to defer pruning later than that, except in the 
case of Gooseberries, which are often attended to last of 
all, owing to the damage done to the buds by birds. If 
pruning is deferred as late as possible, the basal buds, 
which are of chief importance, are more likely to be 
unharmed. Fruit trees on walls ought to be tx-ained 
with some exactness, after pruning is completed. The 
best method of procedure is to detach the stems, remove 
all old shreds, which are often infested with insect pests 
or disease spores, and re-attach the trees to the wall, 
using fresh nails and shreds. Peach, Nectarine and 
Cherry trees are invariably trained in the shape of a fan ; 
Pear and Plum trees may be trained in similar fashion or 
with the branches arranged in horizontal tiers. 

Planting and spraying may be continued during this 
month, though, if the ground is very wet, planting is 
best postponed. If it is intended to graft fruit trees 
during March, scions or grafts ought now to be selected 
and partly buried in the soil in a cool spot. 

Fruit Trees under Glass. — There is still time to 
renovate the borders in which Vines and Peaches are 
planted ; even if it is not found necessary to do this, it is 
beneficial to remove a few inches of surface soil and 
replace with fresh turfy loam. Pruning ought to be 
completed during this month; directions were given in 
the notes dealing with work in December. If it is in- 
tended to prodvice a crop of Grapes in early summer, 
preparations must be made at once. When the Vines 
have been pruned and cleansed, the vinery is kept closed 
for a week or two, though no artificial warmth is em- 
ployed. At the end of that period a night temperature 
of 45° is maintained, and in the course of a few weeks is 
increased to 50°. Strawberries in pots may be forced in 
the vinery, as conditions there suit them admirably ; they 
ought to be placed on a shelf not far from the glass. 

127 



Round the Year in the Garden 

In the Kitchen Garden 

The time-honoured advice given to kitchen gardeners 
early in the year, is to make out, and dispatch, the order for 
seeds, and there is sound reason for it. Possessing the 
seeds, one is able to take advantage of suitable vs^eather 
conditions for sowing. It is disappointing to have the 
ground prepared, yet to be unable to proceed when the 
opportunity offers, simply because one had failed to order 
seeds. Further, having decided to grow certain varieties 
of vegetables, it is annoying to find that they are sold out. 
It is wise to prepare a rough plan of the ground to be 
dropped, then an approximately correct quantity of seed 
can be ordered. 

Vacant ground ought to be dug as opportunity offers, 
manure being used if the crop is such as to require freshly 
manured land. The protection of Globe Artichoke and 
Celery, by scattering a little strawy litter over them, is 
advisable in severe weather. Parsley may be protected 
by placing a frame over part of the bed, and Broccoli by 
breaking the leaves over the heads. 

Forcing Vegetables. — The forcing of Rhubarb, Sea- 
kale and Chicory is easily accomplished by lifting the 
roots and placing them in boxes of soil in a dark shed, or 
other covenient position, as, for example, beneath the 
greenhouse stage, providing the side is covered in. Rhu- 
barb and Seakale are easily forced out of doors now, by 
covering the roots with large pots and placing manure 
round about them. Perpetual Spinach is an invaluble 
vegetable, and roots from which the leaves have been 
gathered may be lifted and placed in pots or boxes of soil 
in a warm greenhouse ; a fresh crop will soon be available 
for gathering. Mint is easily obtained by lifting and 
potting a few roots and growing them in the greenhouse- 

It is advisable to make an early start in planting 
Horseradish, for a long season of growth is necessary. 
Roots aboTit 8 inches long and ^ inch wide are covered 

128 



January — The Passing of Winter 

with 2 inches of soil and put 10 or 12 inches apart. The 
ground needs to be deeply dug for this crop, and if the 
soil requires manure, this ought to be placed at least 12 
inches down. 

Seeds to Sow.— Broad Beans may be sown out of doors 
towards the end of the month, if an early supply is wanted ; 
a suitable variety is Beck's Dwarf. Radishes germinate 
quickly in a warm greenhouse, and an early and welcome 
gathering of roots is obtained by sowing now. Seeds of 
Cauliflower Snowball, if sown under glass, will produce 
plants suitable for putting out of doors early in April. 
Peas, too, may now be sown in pots in the greenhouse. 
The variety Gradus is suitable. A useful crop of French 
Beans can be grown from seed sown now in pots in the 
greenhouse, while if early Tomatoes or Cucumbers are 
required, a few seeds ought to be sown in pots under glass. 
Those who grow Onions for exhibition, sow the seeds under 
glass towards the end of this month. For ordinary pur- 
poses it is not necessary to do so, although seedlings raised 
under glass are not so liable to be attacked by the Onion 
fly as those sown out of doors later. 

Making a Hotbed.— Those who do not possess a glass- 
house may obtain early vegetables by means of a hotbed. 
This is made of half strawy manure and half leaves, or 
wholly of manure. The latter is turned several times 
during the course of a week or ten days before being made 
up. The bed should he trodden down firmly, and then 
ought to be not less than from 2 or 3 feet in thickness. If 
no frame is available to place upon the hotbed the latter 
can be made in the ground, a low turf wall or a few bricks 
being used to support a glass " light, " as the top of the 
frame is called. A bed of fine soil about 6 inches in depth 
is arranged on the hotbed, and there seeds are sown. 
After the bed of manure is made, a little air should be left 
on the frame for a few days to allow of the escape of fumes, 
and for this reason sowing ought not to take place imme- 
diately. 

J 129 



FEBRUARY 

Dawning Spring 

THE opening days of February mark the earnest 
beginning of the garden year, and the laggard now 
will be the loser later on. The increasing sunshine has 
awakened the garden from its winter sleep and brought 
joy to the heart of the gardener who began long months 
ago. He who has delayed mvist procrastinate no longer. 
The soil dries, enabling planting to be carried out in 
greater comfort and with greater convenience. The 
Snowdrops are already out, and the Winter Aconites — 
little yellow flowers in frills of green— and the Crocuses 
are opening wide to the pale sunshine. Daffodils, 
Tulips, Hyacmths and Grape Hyacinths are fast spearing 
through the soil, while the shoots of Spanish Iris and 
Ixia, which made their appearance long since, seem 
not to have suffered from the January cold. The buds 
of the earliest Saxifrages, apiculata, sancta and others, 
grow bigger every day, and show more colour, while 
the tufts of some alpines that had lost their vivacious 
green, or become sparse of leaves, are quickly regain- 
ing their attractiveness. The awakening to fresh life 
and beauty of the rock flowers is one of the delights 
of the garden at this time of year. 

Among the Hardy Flowers 
Pruning Clematis. — When Clematises ^are purchased 
it is wise to ascertain to which class they belong, so 
that one may know how to proceed with the pruning, 
for some kinds bear flowers on the shoots of the previous 
summer, and others on the new shoots of the summer 

130 



February — Dawning Spring 

to come. The Jackmani Clematises are pruned to 
within 18 inches or 2 feet of the base at this season, 
providing they have been regularly pruned in this 
manner ; if, howevei*, there is some length of bare 
woody stem the shoots should be cut back only to 
Avithin about 18 inches of this. I will give the names 
of some of the most familiar varieties in each section, 
so that readers may know how to prune ; should they 
possess varieties other than those named, the vender 
should be asked to say to which class they belong. 
Well-known Jackmani sorts are the purple Jackmani, 
Jackmani alba, rubra and superba, Mme. Ed. Andre, 
Ville de Lyon, Star of India and Gipsy Queen. The 
lanuginosa Clematises also bloom on the fresh growths 
of the current summer, but they need rather less drastic 
treatment than the Jackmani kinds ; last year's shoots 
may be cut half-way back. Familiar varieties are 
Henryi, Beauty of Worcester, Marcel Moser, Fairy Queen 
and Lady Caroline Neville. There are some fine double 
varieties among the fiorida kinds, which should not be 
pruned in spring ; the time to prune them is after the 
blooms are over, then some of the old growths are 
thinned out; Belle of Woking, Duchess of Edinburgh, 
John Gould Veitch and Lucie Lemoine are excellent 
varieties. Similar ijruning is needed by the patens 
group of Clematis, of which good varieties are Nellie 
Moser, one of the chief favourites, Mrs. George Jackman, 
Miss Bateraan, Lady Londesborough, and Fair Rosa- 
munde. The forms of Clematis viticella, which have 
smaller flowers, are not so commonly grown, though 
certainly deserving of cultivation ; they bloom in late 
summer and autumn. Ville de Lyon and Thomas Moore 
are two fine sorts ; the shoots should be pruned in spring. 
Failures to establish Clematis may often be traced to 
planting in heavy, ill-drained soil, and failing to cover 
the roots sufficiently deeply. It is wise to protect the 
lower part of the stem with a piece of slate or fir 

131 



Round the Year in the Garden 

branches until the plants are growing freely. The 
upper roots should be covered with 2 or 3 inches of 
soil, and lime rubble or broken plaster may be mixed 
in freely with advantage. 

The Indian Crocus. — Those who wish to have a 
flower border edging that is not at all common should 
grow the flower of the West Wind, or Indian Crocus, as 
Zephyranthes Candida is popularly called. It produces 
dark green narrow leaves, and in August and September 
yields a profusion of white flowers much resembling 
those of the Crocus. The bulbs may be planted now, 
about 3 inches deep. The display of bloom is not 
likely to be good the first autumn after planting, but, 
provided the bulbs are left undisturbed, there will be 
plenty of flowers in subsequent seasons. The plant is 
quite happy in a half shady position, as, for example, on 
the edge of a border facing west. There are several 
other sorts of Zephyranthes, though this is the only 
one that is really hardy. Another bulb that seems 
somewhat unworthily neglected is Veltheimia viridifolia ; 
it is quite an excellent plant for the cool or cold green- 
house. One can scarcely call it handsome, but the 
pinkish-yellow, . drooping blooms that cluster towards 
the top of a stem some 12 inches or more high are 
quite attractive. It may be grown very easily in a 
flower-pot in a compost of loam, with a little leaf soil 
and sand added ; it blooms in August. 

Sowing Sweet Peas Out of Doors. — The method 
of Sweet Pea growing most commonly practised nowa- 
days is to sow seeds in pots in a greenhouse or frame in 
January or early in February, and in April to plant the 
seedlings out of doors. But seeds may be sown out of 
doors from now until the middle or, in the Northern 
counties, even the end of March, with every hope of 
success, providing the ground has been previously dug 
some 2 feet deep. Superphosphate of lime mixed in 
the upper 12 inches in advance of sowing, at the 

132 



turffj r '' ff'ff/k 





WELL-FRUITED TOMATOES GROWN IN POTS IN AN 
AMATEUR'S GREENHOUSE 



February — Dawning Spring 

rate of 2 ounces per square yard, is largely used by 
Sweet Pea growers. The seeds are sown about 6 inches 
apart in a double row, and covered with 1 inch or so 
of soil ; if mice are troublesome the seeds should be 
moistened and coated with red-lead before being sown. 
Since disease is so common among Sweet Peas, it is 
advisable to sterilise the seeds before they are put in the 
ground, and this may be carried out by soaking them in 
a solution of permanganate of potash for a few minutes. 
A few varieties especially recommended for garden 
display are Dorothy, lilac or pale mauve ; Bobbie's 
Cream, cream ; lolanthe, white ; Tennant Spencer, bright 
mauve ; R, F. Felton, lavender ; Edith Taylor, rose pink ; 
and Maud Holmes, crimson. Among older varieties still 
largely grown may be mentioned Dorothy Eckford, 
white ; Lady G. Hamilton, lavender ; Zarina, pink ; Mrs. 
Townsend, white with blue edge; Helen Pierce, white 
veined with blue ; Mrs. Hardcastle Sykes, pale pink ; 
Flora Norton Spencer, pale blue ; and Helen Lewis, 
orange and rose. 

Pruning Early-flowering Shrubs.— Quite a number 
of shrubs blossom during February and March when 
outdoor flowers are scarce, and for that reason they are 
additionally welcome. The interest of a garden is, I 
think, dependent very largely upon the length of its 
flowering season; the border having nothing but leaves 
and stems to show until spring is waning to summer, 
and little more when summer is passing, lacks many 
good things of the flower world, and not least among 
them are the early shrubs. The pruning of shrubs 
generally seems imperfectly understood by many amateur 
gardeners, and it may be worth while to mention a few 
of those now in bud or blossom, and to describe how 
they should be pruned. Almost everyone grows the 
winter Jessamine (Jasminum nudiflorum), but few prune 
it at the proper time, which is as soon as the flowers 
are over ; the growths that have blossomed are cut back 

^33 



Round the Year in the Garden 

to within three or four buds of the base, so that vigorous 
shoots may develop which shall in turn yield flowers 
next winter. The fragrant winter-blooming Honey- 
suckles (Lonicera fragrantissima and Standishi) need 
little pruning, but thin and weakly growths ought to 
be cut away. The golden Bell Trees (Forsythia) need to 
be hard pruned when the flowers have faded, as advised 
for the winter Jessamine. The Witch Hazels (Hamamelis), 
with their curiously twisted yellowish flowers, are among 
the quaintest if not the showiest of early shrubs; the 
necessary pruning is provided by cutting out weakly 
growths, thus keeping the branches thinly disposed. 
The side shoots of the Winter Sweet (Chimonanthus 
fragrans) need to be cut back after the fragrant 
brownish blossoms are over. The sweet-scented Daphne 
Mezereum grows slowly and needs no pruning. Magnolia 
stellata, a lovely bush that bears a profusion of white 
blossom in March, needs scarcely any pruning, except 
that weakly shoots likely to crowd the centre of the 
bush are cut out. The Flowering Currants that are so 
gay in spring should have attention when the display 
is past, some of the oldest stems being cut out, if this 
seems needful. There is little to be done to Lilac at 
this season, though sucker growths, those that develop 
from the base of the bush, may be cut off; as fresh 
growth starts, disbudding is practised with the object of 
obtaining a limited number of good strong stems rather 
than a large number of weak ones, which rarely flower 
satisfactorily. Some other shrubs need hard pruning 
in spring ; the stems of that charming blue-flowered 
August shrub, Ceanothus Gloire de Versailles, should be 
shortened now, for the blooms are produced by the 
fresh shoots. The same advice applies to the panicled 
Hydrangea (paniculata) and to the St. John's Wort 
(Hypericum calycinum), both of which bloom best on 
the fresh growths. Handsome summer-flowering shrubs 
are Buddleia variabilis and its varieties Veitchiana and 

134 



February — Dawning Spring 

magnifica ; last year's shoots ought now to be shortened 
to within two or three buds of the base. Now is the 
time to prune late-flowering Spiraeas such as Aitchisoni 
and japonica; weak shoots are cut out and the others 
are shortened to within about 15 inches of the base. 

Root Cuttings. — Propagation by means of root 
cuttings is a method of increasing plants that is not com- 
monly practised by amateur gardeners, except, perhaps, 
unwittingly, when Dandelion, or Plantain, Couch Grass or 
other obnoxious weed is imperfectly removed ; the pieces 
remaining in the ground are able to produce fresh growths, 
and so the plants ate perpetuated. Yet quite a number 
of good plants are easily and preferably increased in this 
manner. Most people who have grown the beautiful 
blue Alkanet (Anchusa) have found it to be a doubt- 
ful perennial, and probably have discovered that a 
fresh supply of plants is obtained without difficulty 
by means of root cuttings. The Japanese Anemone 
(Anemone japonica) is another favourite hardy plant 
that is readily iDropagated in a similar way, although 
the same necessity does not arise in this case, since 
the Anemone is a true perennial. The Biirning Bush 
(Dictamnus Fraxinella), which one does not see very often 
now, though both the type and the white variety are 
attractive border flowers — this, too, is increased by root 
cuttings. The same method may be practised for obtain- 
ing a larger number of plants of the handsome Plume 
Poppy (Bocconia cordata). Owing to its spreading roots, 
each little piece of which will grow, this plant is 
difficult to get rid of when once well established, and 
fresh growths continue to appear annually unless all 
the roots are carefully picked out. Other border plants 
of which root cuttings may be taken are Oriental Poppy, 
Crambe orientale (Ornamental Seakale), Sea Lavender 
(Statice), Monkshood (Aconitum), Paeony, Convolvulus, 
and, of vegetables, Seakale and Horseradish. 

The method of preparing root cuttings is of the 

135 



Round the Year in the Garden 

simplest: the roots are cut up into pieces about 3 
inches long and are inserted in soil either out of doors 
or in flower-pots. In gardens of light, well-drained 
land the cuttings may be placed out of doors, the 
border having been first well prepared by digging. 
But it is safer to put the cuttings in pots of light 
soil, and to place these in a frame for some time 
until leaf growth has developed. Planting out of doors 
is practised in spring or early summer. The pieces 
of root are usually inserted with the tops just below 
the surface of tlie soil. Autumn or early in February 
is a suitable time for taking root cuttings. 

In the Greenhouse 

Yellow Arum Lilies. — The yellow Arum Lilies are 
far less commonly seen in gardens than the white 
sorts. Amateurs undertaking their cultivation are apt 
to treat them like the familiar Easter Lily, as the 
white Arum is sometimes called, with disappointing 
results. The roots or tubers should be at rest during 
the winter months. When, in late summer, the flower- 
ing season is over, and the leaves begin to lose their 
freshness, the siipply of water to the roots should be 
gradually discontinued ; when the leaves have fallen, 
watering should cease. The roots remain in the pots 
of soil during winter, the latter being turned on their 
side so that the soil is kept dry. They must, of course, 
be stored in some frost-proof place. In spring the roots 
are taken out and repotted in fresh soil, and grown 
in a heated greenhouse. The flowering season is summer- 
The two best yellow Arums are Elliottiana and Pent- 
landi, of which the rich yellow spathes and handsome 
leaves give a striking display. 

Dahlias and Room Plants.— If Dahlia roots which 
have been stored during winter are now placed in 
boxes of soil and kept moist, growth will soon com- 

136 



February — Dawning Spring 

mence, and cuttings may then be formed from the 
young shoots, or the clumps can be divided for plant- 
ing out of doors later on. The old roots usually yield 
a large number of flowers of moderate size, while 
plants grown from cuttings give fewer but finer blossoms. 
Those having no heated greenhouse may plant the tubers 
out of doors in April. The roots of Cannas should 
now be treated similarly ; the stock of plants can be 
increased readily by dividing the clumps. Now is the 
time to start into growth other greenhouse roots, such 
as Begonia, Achimenes and Gloxinia. Ferns and palms 
that need repotting should be attended to at this season ; 
a compost of two -thirds loam, one-third peat, with plenty 
of silver sand, is suitable for most of them. Maidenhair 
Ferns are much improved if the old fronds are cut off ; 
fresh ones will soon grow. Now also is the time to repot 
such room plants as may need this attention : Aspidistra, 
Dracaena, Indiarubber plant, and others. A soil similar to 
that advised for ferns is suitable. It is a mistake to use 
larger flower-pots than are really essential; the plants 
are generally healthier in comparatively small ones, pro- 
viding they are properly watered. If old plants of 
Zonal Geraniums are pruned now, fresh shoots will soon 
form and should be taken off and inserted as cuttings 
to provide plants for next winter. 

Cuttings of Chrysanthemums for decorative purposes 
should still be inserted in pots of sandy soil. Those 
put in earlj^ in the year are now rooted and must be 
kept cool, otherwise they will become weak and " drawn." 
As soon as well rooted in the small pots they must be 
repotted, using a compost of turfy loam with which a 
little leaf soil and sand are mixed. 

Bedding plants ought now to be increased from cut- 
tings as they are required. Stock plants potted last 
autumn make rapid growth in a warm greenhouse and 
shoots are soon available for cuttings. They form roots 
readily in pots or boxes of sandy soil. Cuttings that were 

137 



Round the Year in the Garden 

nserted in autumn are well rooted and their tops may 
now be taken off as fresh cuttings. 

Sowing Larkspur and Lupin. — Among hardy plants 
of which seeds may be sown now to produce flowering 
plants this year Delphinium (perennial Larkspur) and 
Lupin hold high place. Lupins grow most rapidly and 
will be in bloom in August, if not before ; Delphiniums 
are not so accommodating, but small flower-spikes may 
be expected in late summer and quite good ones next 
year. Seeds of first-class sorts in mixture may be 
obtained, and some of the seedlings will prove as fine 
as named varieties. The charming pale mauve Scabious 
(Scabiosa caucasica) will bloom in late summer from 
seeds sown now in warmth, so, too, will that lovely 
golden-yellow flower Coreopsis grandiflora (which is 
unsurpassed both for bor-der display and for cutting) 
if grown quickly and given liberal treatment. I have 
never been able to induce Border Carnations to floAver 
the first year from seed, but by sowing now splendid 
plants are obtained by autumn, and the following 
summer they yield sheaves of blossom in all sorts of 
bewitching colours. Really good seed must be secured, 
then the percentage of single flowers will be small and 
the double blossoms of excellent quality. 

I believe most amateurs who grow Carnations from 
seed fail to get good results because they sow too late ; 
February and March are the best months. The details 
of cultivation are much the same in the early stages for 
all these plants. A temperature of 60^ is best, though 
rather less warmth will suffice. Shallow pans or boxes 
are more suitable than pots, since they offer a greater 
surface and less depth ; they should be drained with 
crocks for about one-quarter of their depth, filled with 
sifted sandy soil, and moistened by immersion to the rim 
in a bowl of water some hours before the seed is sown. 
It is unwise to sow the seeds thickly ; otherwise the seed- 
lings become drawn and weakly and spoil each other. A 

138 




THE OPAL VARIETY OF THE ITALIAN ALKANET (ANCHUSA ITALICA) 

(Light blue) 




A CHARMING ROCK PRIMROSK (PRIMULA PUBKSCKNS ALBA) 




THE CREEPING SANDWORT (ARENARIA BALEARICA) 



February — Dawning Spring 

covering of glass and brown paper will help to keep the 
soil moist, and this is of the greatest importance in 
ensuring germination. When the seedlings are 1 inch 
or so high they are transferred to other pots or boxes ; 
subsequently they are hardened off and planted out as 
becomes necessary. 

Rock Plants from Seed.— The possession of quite a 
number of alpine plants raised from seed sown in Febru 
ary of last year reminds one how easily many of them are 
grown in this way. Some will blossom during the coming 
summer, though most will not flower until next year. 
That charming rose-coloured Primrose (Primula frondosa) 
is certainly one to begin with ; a packet of seeds Mali 
provide at least a score of plants, and a 3|-inch wide 
flower-pot is big enough to accommodate each one until 
flowering time. Mine have been in pots of this size 
throughout the winter, plunged to the rim in a bed of 
ashes, and now in the cold greenhouse their beautiful 
white leaves are pushing forth, and soon the lovely rosy 
blossoms will show. Primula capitata, a late summer 
Primrose from the Himalayas, should also be sown, more 
especially as, in most gardens, it is a biennial only, and 
dies after having flowered. The pursuit of gardening 
involves a good deal of timely anticipation, but once one 
has made a start there is no lapse in the display providing, 
as each season comes round, its tasks are carried out. 
Lots of other Primvilas may be grown from seed sown now, 
such, for instance, as japonica, pulverulenta, rosea, sikkim- 
ensis and cortusoides. The dainty little Primula Forbesi 
is an annual, and by sowing seeds at intervals one 
may have plants in bloom for weeks together. The Pinks 
are easj'' from seed, notably, Dianthus caesius, graniticus, 
deltoides, arenarius and plumarius ; so, too, are many 
Campanulas. That lovely evening Primrose, Oenothera 
missouriensis, will bloom next siunmer from seeds sown 
in the greenhouse or frame, and one may say the same of 
Dianthus arenarius, Antirrhinum glutinosum, Aethion- 

139 



Round the Year in the Garden 

ema coridifolium, Campanula carpatica and piisilla, Alpine 
Poppy (Papaver alpinum), Alpine Toadflax (Linaria 
alpina), Silene alpestris, Seduru eoeruleum, Tunica Saxi- 
fraga, Vittadenia triloba, and Viola gracilis. If the 
names of some of these are unfamiliar the plants will 
prove none the less delightful to those who make their 
acquaintance for the first time. The seeds are sown in 
well-drained pans filled with sifted, sandy soil, and are 
kept moist and shaded until germination. They should 
be placed in a greenhouse or frame ; if this is slightly 
heated the seedlings will show through all the more 
quickly. 

There are many surprises in store for those who sow 
seeds of alpine and border perennials. Some of them may 
be expected to germinate within from two to four weeks 
in a greenhouse temperature of about 50*^, while others 
are notoriously slow. Among seeds that I sowed last 
March were those of that charming white-flowered Wind- 
flower, Anemone sylvestris ; the seedlings failed to appear 
during spring, so the seed-pot was left out of doors through- 
out summer and winter. During the last week or two 
the little plants have sprung up quite thickly, twelve 
months after sowing. The seeds of many bulbs, Anem- 
one, Primula Auricula, hardy Cyclamen, and others 
are often very slow in germinating, especially if the seed 
has been stored for some time, and it is thus wise to 
obtain freshly-gathered seed of these kinds in summer 
and to sow it as soon as received. No one knows for 
how long seed will retain its germinating powers, though 
generally speaking fresh seed is undoubtedly to be pre- 
ferred. Probably most failures occur through sowing 
thickly, covering the seeds too deeply and to indiscrimin- 
ate watering. The merest sprinkling of sand or sifted 
soil is sufficient for small seeds, and the soil needs to 
be kept always moist by spraying daily with a fine 
syringe and by covering with glass and paper. As soon 
as the seedlings show they should be placed fairly near 

140 



February — Dawning Spring 

the glass and shaded. Moisture should be given only 
by immersing the flower-pots or pans in water. 

Stocks and Asters. — These are perhaps the most 
valiiable of all half hardy annuals, and when well grown 
few flowers give greater delight or a more abundant har- 
vest. Both have been very greatly improved by florists, 
and the strains of seed offered by seedsmen give excellent 
results. Ten- week Stocks are usually found easier to grow 
than Asters ; seedlings of the latter damp off in alarming 
numbers under unsuitable conditions, while those of 
the former are not so fastidious. Thin sowing, careful 
watering, timely transplanting of the seedlings, with 
discriminate ventilation, are the chief aids to success. In 
a damp, close atmosphere the seedlings are more liable 
to fail than when, as gardening phraseology has it, the 
atmospheric conditions are " sweet and buoyant. " The 
seedlings should be moistened by immersing the flower-pot 
or pan in a bowl of water, not by pouring water among 
them through the spout of a watering-can. Some people 
dislike Stocks because a proportion of the flowers are 
single. It is, I admit, difficult to admire single-flowered 
Stocks ; yet if a good strain of seed is obtained, and care 
is taken of the small and insignificant seedlings, there is 
usually not much to complain of. More often than not it 
is the big, sturdy seedlings that produce most of the 
single flowers. As double flowers cannot produce seeds, 
it follows that these must be saved from single or semi- 
double flowers, and for this reason a certain percentage of 
single blooms must always be expected when seed of Stock 
is sown. I find that the seedlings thrive well in an 
ordinary greenhouse or in a frame on a hot-bed that has 
cooled down somewhat. The single Asters, e.g. the Comet 
varieties, are preferred by most people, and they are 
undoubtedly delightful as cut flowers. 

Some Half Hardy Annuals. — The old white fragrant 
Tobacco (Nicotiana affinis) is still as great a favourite as 
ever with flower lovers ; its blossoms open in full beauty 

141 



Round the Year in the Garden 

towards evening and fill the garden with their fragrance. 
From seeds sown during February and March an excellent 
display may be ensured iu late summer. The plants are 
quite easy to grow, but should not be put out of doors 
until May. One may now obtain varieties in many shades 
of colour, and if they are not quite so fragrant as the 
white kind they afford welcome change and add gaiety to 
the display. Drummond's Phlox (Phlox Drummondi) may 
be considered one of the indispensable half hardy annuals, 
and a sowing during February w^ill provide plants that 
will blossom for weeks onwards from July. I tried this 
plant one season among the Roses, but it was not a great 
success, for the plants became tall and weakly owing to 
lack of sufficient light, and, while not blooming very 
freely, were rather a nuisance among the Rose shoots. 
Those who wish to try something in place of the vibiquit- 
ous Viola or Tufted Pansy as a ground covering for the 
Rose beds might plant the dwarf bedding Lobelia ; it is a 
brilliant little blue flower and remains in beauty for a 
long time. Everyone will, of course, sow seed of the Sum- 
mer Cypress (Kochia scoparia), or Burning Bush, as it is 
sometimes called ; this is a most charming plant, closely 
resembling a miniature tree ; it grows from 2 to 3 feet 
high, is of symmetrical form, and the leaves are light 
green until late summer, when they become autumn 
tinted, brown, red, and bronze. Some gardeners sow the 
seed out of doors where the plants are to grow, but I have 
always had the best results from sowing in February in the 
greenhouse and potting the little plants singly in small 
pots for planting out in April. One of the most attractive 
August flower-beds I remember to have seen consisted of 
plants of the Kochia interplanted with orange-coloured 
Montbretia. 

Pruning Roses in the Greenhouse. — The chief prun- 
ing of climbing Roses in the greenhouse ought to be 
carried out in summer, when the display of bloom is over ; 
some of the oldest shoots are then cut back to force the 

142 



February — Dawning Spring 

development of fresh ones. The finest blossoms are borne 
on stems that formed the previous summer, though flowers 
are also produced by tlie side gro^vths on the older stems. 
It is the latter that need attention now. They may vary 
from 10 to 20 inches long, and are shortened little or much 
according to their vigour. Such as are almost of the 
thickness of a lead pencil may be left 6 or 8 inches long, 
but all thin growths are best cut back, to within about 
two buds of the base ; the fresh shoots that will form as 
spring advances may be expected to yield flowers, though 
they will not be so fine as those on the strong, fresh stems 
that grew last year. Rose Marechal Niel is, or perhaps it 
would be nearer the truth to say that it was, a favourite 
Rose for the greenhouse. It is still easily king of Roses, 
though few seem to grow it really well. It thrives best as 
a half standard. Rather drastic treatment in the way of 
pruning appears to give the best results, for its wonderful 
golden blossoms ai-e only obtained in perfection and in 
quantity from vigorous growths of the previous summer. 
To ensure these, severe pruning is practised when the 
flowers have faded ; all the shoots are cut back to within 
a few inches of their base. Then, in a warm and moist 
temperature, the tree makes extraordinarily rapid growth, 
and before the end of the season will have produced strong 
shoots many feet in length, shoots that are certain to 
flower abundantly the following summer. It is very 
pleasant to have a few Roses in pots in bloom in late 
spring, a few weeks before the earliest are expected out 
of doors. They should now be pruned and placed in a 
temperature of 45° ; later on, as growth advances, 
they may be given more warmth. Pruning should be 
fairly hard, last year's growths being cut to within two 
or three buds of the base. 

Annuals for the Greenhouse. — Unless one makes 
timely preparation the greenhouse is likely to be some- 
what bare of blossom during the summer months ; by 
sowing seeds now of several charming half hardy annuals 

143 



Round the Year in the Garden 

this disappointmeut may be avoided. Browallia speciosa 
and its variety major are charming blue-flowered plants 
for summer blooming in the greenhouse, and are quite 
easily grown in pots from seed sown during the next few 
weeks. Then the Bvitterfly Flower (Schizanthus) makes 
a brilliant display ; the flowers are obtainable in many 
showy colours. The Nemesias, especially the orange- 
coloured sorts, though quite commonly used for summer 
bedding, are well worth growing in pots. Arctotis bre- 
viscapa, yellow, and grandis, white, with lovely, big, 
Daisy-like blooms, are not often seen in the amateur's 
greenhouse, yet both are easy and give welcome variety. 
Among the so-called Everlasting flowers there are several 
of especial interest. Of the annual Sea Lavenders the 
finest is Statice Suworowi, an attractive plant with hand- 
some rose-coloured blooms on tall stems ; Statice Bon- 
duelli is a yellow-flowered Sea Lavender that will bloom 
in summer from seed sown now. The Rhodanthes and 
Acrocliniums, or Fairy Immortelles, make very charming 
plants for pots, and their flowers and those of the other 
Everlastings may be cut and used for indoor decoration. 
Helichrysum is another Everlasting suitable for pots, its 
large double blooms may be had in many colour shades, 
orange, crimson, yellow, etc. Then, of course, one may 
grow Mignonette, Asters, Stocks, Zinnias, Forbes' Prim- 
rose (Primula Forbesii),'and other common annuals. All 
these flowers are attractive and quite easy to grow. 

One has only to sow seeds in pots of sandy soil, 
in a temperature of 50"' or 55", subsequently trans- 
ferring the seedlings to 5-inch pots, and during the 
summer grow them in an airy, unheated greenhouse. 
Some care is necessary while the plants are in the seed- 
ling stage, especially with regard to watering and shading 
them, but afterwards they are quite amenable to the care 
of the unskilled amateur. The prettiest plant to use as 
an edging to the stage in the greenhouse is Helxine 
Solieroli, an unpardonable name distinguishing a low, 

144 



February — Dawning Spring 

close-growing plant that forms a mass of tiny green foli- 
age. It is really hardy — I grow it on the rockery — though 
it seems happier under glass. One can obtain charming 
specimens if it is planted in the centre of a flower-pot ; it 
soon reaches the edge and subsequently creeps over the 
side, altogether covering the pot with its mantle of green. 
Another beautiful little plant of this character, though 
additionally attractive owing to its bearing a crop of 
orange-red berries, is Nertera depressa; both these are 
perennial. Cobaea scandens is a vigorous perennial climber, 
though flowering the first year from seed ; it is really too 
rampant for the small greenhouse, but its large cup-shaped 
purplish blossoms are handsome. It may be sown under 
glass now for planting out of doors in May. 

Greenhouse Climbing Plants. — A suitable selection 
of climbing plants adds largely to the charm of the green- 
house. Those that form masses of dense foliage should be 
avoided, and others might well be trained to the rafters as 
much as possible. Thus the amount of shade given by the 
climbers will be negligible. If, on the other hand, ever- 
green or close-leaved sorts are chosen and trained beneath 
the glass, plants in pots on the stage below are bound to 
suffer. Generally, greenhouse climbers are more success- 
ful when planted in a small border than when grown in 
flower-pots, though large tubs or pots answer the same 
purpose providing watering is carefully practised. When 
the roots are in a border they are not likely to suffer from 
drought, as is liable to happen if flower-pots are used. 
The Abutilon is an excellent climbing plant; it is true 
that the leaves are rather large, but if the shoots are hard 
pruned each spring, and the main stem is secured to the 
rafter, the plants beneath do not suffer. There are many 
beautiful varieties, e.g. Boule de Neige, white ; Golden 
Fleece, yellow; and Sanglant, red. The plants bloom 
throughout a long season, during spring and summer, and 
the drooping bell-shaped blossoms come very freely. 
Fuchsias, too, make admirable greenhouse climbers ; they 
K 145 



Round the Year in the Garden 

also need hard pruning each spring. Both Fuchsias and 
Abutilons are long-lived when grown in this way, and 
annually produce graceful, pendent, flower-laden shoots. 
The exquisite blue-flowered Plumbago capensis is a favour- 
ite climber that blossoms most profusely. It is necessary 
to shorten the shoots in spring ; many amateurs fail to do 
this, and their plants consequently become prematurely 
weak. Cletnatis indivisa lobata is a splendid climbing 
plant, though perhaps too vigorous for the small green- 
house ; the slender shoots become wreathed with white, 
starry flowers in spring. The Scarlet Trumpet Flower 
(Tecoma capensis), Jasminum grandiflorum, yellow, the 
blue and w^hite Passion flowers (Passiflora caerulea and 
variety Constance Elliot) are other good climbers, while 
Heliotrope and Geranium, too, are suitable, more espe- 
cially for training against the wall or on a pillar. 

The Oleander. — If one may judge by the number 
of qviestions asked with reference to its cultivation, the 
Oleander (of which the correct name is Nerium Oleander) 
is one of the most popular of half hardy floTvers. A well- 
grown and well-blossomed plant is very beautiful, show- 
ing strong, smooth stems, attractive leaves and, above all, 
the exquisite rose-pink blossoms that reward the skilled 
grower. The Oleander, a member of the Periwinkle 
family, is a native of Southern Europe and the Near East, 
and there delights in sunshine and mud ; it grows wild in 
swampy land by the side of rivers. These conditions 
give us a clue to the treatment it needs in gardens. 
During its season of growth it requires an abundance of 
w^ater, and subsequently full exposure to sunshine, so 
that the shoots may be matured. It is wise to stand the 
pot in water during the summer months ; throughout the 
winter it needs the protection of a glasshouse, that it 
may be safe from frosts. Although, no doubt, want of 
sunshine is responsible for some of the disappointments 
occasioned by lack of blossom, the blame cannot be 
wholly laid there ; starvation treatment is largely 

146 



February — Dawning Spring 

accountable for flowerless plants. It is not likely that 
the Oleander will continue to flourish and to flower unless 
it is given liberal cultivation ; it must be repotted or given 
a rich top-dressing of fresh soil annually. Only by induc- 
ing it to grow strongly, and by endeavouring to get the 
shoots firm and hard, can one hope to make it bloom 
regularly. When the flower buds are developing small 
growths usually push out around them, and if these are 
not removed they make such progress as to cause the 
flowers to wither away. It is best to repot as soon as the 
flowers are over and to keep the plant in a warm, moist 
atmosphere for some weeks to encourage fresh growth, 
subsequently exposing it fully for the sake of the ripen- 
ing, upon which the harvest of blossom is dependent. 

In the Fruit Garden 

Planting may still be carried out in mild weather, if 
the soil is moderately dry, and all pruning ought to be 
completed early in the month. As soon as the surface 
soil is " workable " it should be forked over, and a dressing 
of yard manure may be given with advantage. 

Autumn fruiting Raspberries are pruned now, the 
canes or stems of last year's growth being shortened to 
within a few inches of the ground. The fruits are pro- 
duced by the stems of the current season, not, as is the 
case with summer fruiting Raspberries, by those of the 
previous season. If the old shoots, which have borne 
fruits, have not yet been cut away from such berried 
fruits as Loganberry and Blackberry, no time should be 
lost in carrying out the work ; the fresh stems, those of 
last summer's growth, are tied to the supports. 

Fruit Trees under Glass. — Vines and Peach trees 
under glass start growing this month, even when the 
glasshouse is unheated, providing it is in a sunny posi- 
tion. Great care is needed in ventilating, to avoid ex- 
tremes of temperature, and it is wise to admit a little air 

147 



Round the Year in the Garden 

early in the morning in mild weather. In fact, the glass- 
house should be kept as cool as possible so that the trees 
may start into growth gradually. In the heated vinery 
the buds have already burst ; a night temperature of from 
45' to 50° is quite high enough, and the ventilators must 
be opened slightly when the thermometer registers 55°. 
They should be closed early in the afternoon. Seeds of 
Melon and Cucumber may now be sown singly in small 
pots of soil, preferably placed on a hotbed in the glass- 
house. 

In the Kitchen Garden 

The Parsnip is a vegetable that needs a long season 
of growth, and if the soil is in suitable condition seeds 
may be sown thinly in rows 15 to 18 inches apart. 
The seedlings must be thinned subsequently until 
they are 10 or 12 inches apart. The roots of Jerusalem 
Artichoke may be planted now ; this vegetable is very 
vigorous, and the roots ought to be 12 inches apart, in 
rows 2 feet from each other. Rhubarb can be planted 
this month, and old clumps lifted and divided. Each 
root put in must have one or two good buds or eyes 
and be put from 2 to 3 feet apart. Leaves ought not 
to be pulled from a fresh plantation of Rhubarb the 
first season. If Shallots have not already been planted, 
the cloves, as the bulbs are called, ought to be got in 
now. It is necessary merely to press them in the soil 
sufficiently to make them firm ; they must not be 
wholly covered. 

It is possible to grow Potatoes upon the same grovmd 
year after year, providing the land is well cultivated 
and manured, and, most important of all, that fresh 
seed, preferably Scotch or Irish, is obtained in alternate 
seasons. Unless the latter precaution is taken the crop 
will certainly deteriorate. Tubers of early varieties 
ought to be prepared for planting out of doors next 
month, by placing them on end in shallow boxes in a 

148 



February — Dawning Spring 

cool, light position so that the buds or eyes may 
sprout. The sprouts are limited to two, or at the most 
three, on each root. An early dish of Potatoes is 
obtained by planting the tubers in a bed of soil made 
up in a frame from which frost can be excluded, or 
they may be grown in pots in the greenhouse. Sharpe's 
Victor is a reliable variety for this purpose. 

Seeds to Sow. — Those having the convenience of 
a greenhouse or a hotbed made up in a frame should 
sow seeds of Radish, Carrot, Turnip and Lettuce ; they 
will provide acceptable early produce. Seeds of Cauli- 
flower and Brussels Sprouts sown now will yield useful 
plants for putting out of doors later on to ensure early 
crops, while Leek and Onion may now be raised under 
glass. 

Early Peas can be sown out of doors on a warm 
border. Sowing should be done somewhat thickly, for 
there are sure to be losses among the seedlings. It is 
advisable first to moisten the seeds and theu shake them 
in a tin of red lead or to soak them in petroleum to 
prevent damage from birds and mice. Broad Beans may 
be sown now, the seeds being placed 4 inches apart in 
a double row. 



149 



MARCH 

Sowing and Planting 

AS spring progresses, so does the garden increase in 
interest and the procession of the flowers gather 
vokime. On every hand there are signs of fresh life; 
buds burst to leaf and blossom, fresh colour patches are 
added to the garden carpet, bare soil is hidden beneath 
unfolding greenery — the faint-hearted gardener feels that 
summer is on the way. Happy is he who, under the 
shelter of a greenhouse or frame, sowed seeds early in the 
year, for by now he has a collection of seedlings that 
gain daily in strength, while freshly sown seeds are 
forming their first leaves. Those not so happily cir- 
cumstanced should commence seed-sowing in earnest 
out of doors as soon as the surface is sufficiently dry to 
be broken to a fine tilth. The planting of Roses and all 
other shrubs (except choice evergreens), fruit trees, 
climbers and bushes must be completed this month or 
very early in AjDril if they are to give satisfaction the 
first season, though they will not be comparable with 
those put in the ground at the proper time — five or six 
months ago. 

Among the Hardy Flowers 

Pruning Roses. — The pruning of Roses is a question 
of absorbing interest at this season of the year ; like 
many other gardening tasks it is really simple, though, 
apparently, not at all well understood by amateurs. 
While it is true that a good Rose bush may be marred 
by incorrect pruning, it does not follow^ that a poor one 
can be transformed by correct pruning, for so many 

150 



March — Sowing and Planting 

other details, such, for instance, as choice of stock, soil, 
and planting, exert an influence on the career of the 
tree. It is obvious that, before starting to prune, one 
should have some knowledge of the effect that will 
follow the shortening or removal of the stems or shoots ; 
to prune ^vithout discrimination and merely to give the 
plant a presentable shape is a practice that can only 
lead to dire results. If it were remembered that the 
majority of climbing Roses bear the best blossoms on 
growths of the previous svimmer, and that bush, or 
dwarf, and standard Roses yield the finest blooms on 
growths that have still to develop, fewer mistakes would 
be made. 

Often enough those who do not know are actuated 
by a desire to prune Roses in a fashion exactly contrary 
to that which is correct. For example, one often finds 
that climbing Roses are hard pruned and dwarf Roses 
lightly i^runed ; the result is that the best flowering 
growths of the former are cut away, and the latter have 
no chance of producing shoots that will bear satisfactory 
blooms, for the best flowers are borne by strong shoots. 
Weeping standards are formed by climbing Roses, so 
that their i^runing is similar to that needed by the 
latter. 

The conditions of soil and climate exert a considerable 
influence on pruning : esiaecially do they modify or even 
nullify the effects of wrong pruning. If one's garden 
is on rich loam soil, and the district is mild and warm, 
then most Roses will thrive and blossom, in spite of 
indifferent pruning, or if not pruned at all. But such 
gardens are in the minority, and the question of pruning 
is still one that needs careful practice to ensure the best 
returns. 

Pruning Newly-planted Roses. — There is no doubt 
that newly-planted Roses, those put in between last 
autumn and the present time, benefit by really severe 
pruning. Whether dwarf or climbing sorts, the stems 

151 



Round the Year in the Garden 

should be cut back hard, those of the bush Roses to 
within two or three buds of the base, of the climbers 
to within 4 inches of the ground ; then, and only then, 
may vigorous shoots be expected that will give the 
trees a good start in life. In dealing with established 
Roses — those that have been planted for two or three 
years, or longer — one cannot advise in such a definite 
manner, yet I firmly believe that hard pruning is best ; 
one may, in consequence, obtain rather fewer Roses, yet 
they are blooms that delight their possessor, and there 
is no doubt that Roses hard pruned live the longest, or, 
if not the longest, at least the most satisfactory lives. 
They are always lusty and healthy, and show none of 
those miserably thin growths and bare stems which 
characterise Roses that have been lightly pruned. With 
climbing Hybrid Teas — and especially the climbing 
" sports " such, for example, as Climbing Liberty, Climb- 
ing Richmond, etc. — it is better, instead of cutting down 
the stems to within a few inches of? the ground, to leave 
them about 2 feet long. When, later on, fresh stems 
develop, the old ones are cut out. 

An Explanation of Pruning. — So far as the actual 
cutting of the Rose bushes is concerned, the directions 
are simple ; it is in their application that diflSculties 
arise. The plants differ so remarkably in vigour and 
form of growth that it is impossible to advise concerning 
each variety, let alone each form of plant. The first 
thing to do is to cut out thin and weakly shoots, snags 
and dead pieces ; then comes the actual shortening of 
the remainicg stems. The weaker the growth the harder 
should it be pruned. Any shoot not thicker than a pen- 
holder may be pruned to within two or three buds of 
the base ; on shoots rather stronger four buds, and on 
those as thick as the top of one's little finger five or six 
buds may be left. Yet even this direction may lead one 
astray, for the buds are much farther apart on the 
stems of some varieties than on others ; it would perhaps 

152 



March — Sowing and Planting 

be safer to say that the stems described should be pruned 
back respectively to about 1, 2, aud 3 or 4 inches. 

There will appear to be little left of the plants when 
pruning is finished, but that need be no cause for alarm ; 
the buds are there, and in due time they will burst into 
vigorous growth. Some Roses produce unusually long, 
strong shoots, which, instead of being shortened in the 
orthodox fashion, may be pegged down ; the result will 
be a large number of blooms, though possibly their 
stems may be short. 

Pegging down is advisable with such varieties as 
Avoca, Hugh Dickson, Frau Karl Druschki, Mrs. Stewart 
Clark, Clio, Madame Isaac Pereire, and others. The tips 
of the shoots are attached to pegs in the ground, the 
Roses thus being arched over in semicircular fashion. 

Roses Needing Special Care.— Some Roses need 
little or no pruning, as, for instance, Griiss an Teplitz, 
F. K. Druschki, Aimee Vibert, Zephirine Drouhin, and 
Conrad Meyer ; it is necessary merely to cut out old and 
useless stems and to shorten such laterals as may need 
it; the shoots of Griiss an Teplitz especially should not 
be shortened beyond cutting off the tips if they seem 
thin and soft. Hybrid Perpetual, Hybrid Tea and Tea 
Roses are most commonly grown as bushes ; the H.P.'s 
and H.T.'s, as thej'- are usually called, need treating as 
described above; there will probably be little to do to 
the Teas after the thin, weakly shoots have been cut 
out, beyond shortening the remaining ones by about 
half. 

Tea Roses are perhaps an exception that proves the 
rule I have ventured to enunciate, for they seem to 
thrive best when, after the first season, pruning is only 
moderately severe. In dealing with China Roses cut 
out the small twiggy shoots and shorten the others by 
about one-half. The new Pernetiana class of Roses are 
chiefly of spreading growth, like the Teas, and need 
similar treatment. Rose trees that have been neglected 

153 



Round the Year in the Garden 

for several years, and have in consequence become bare 
at the base and full of long, flowerless shoots, will 
benefit by hard pruning ; they may be cut back into 
the old wood. Although flowers will be scarce during 
the coming summer, the plants will gain renewed 
vigour and take on a fresh lease of life. 

Pruning Climbing Roses. — A start may now be 
made with the pruning of climbing Roses, those on walls, 
which start earliest into growth, being dealt with first. 
Those belonging to the Noisette class, such, for example, 
as Madame Alfred Carri^re and William Allen Richardson, 
bloom freely from side shoots on the older stems, as well 
as from the growths that developed last summer; the 
latter should be tied in almost full length, old stems 
being cut away to make room for them if necessary ; 
the former are cut back to within two or three buds of 
the base, though if unusually strong about one-third only 
need be cut off. The Hybrid Teas need similar treatment. 
Rambling Roses are sometimes grown on walls, though 
the open garden is a better place for them ; they, too, 
blossom from side shoots on growths more than one year 
old, though the best display is from last year's stems. 
Late in summer is the best time to prune these Roses, but 
if the work was hot done then it may be carried out now 
with advantage. It seems a waste of valuable space 
to put such Roses as Crimson Rambler and Dorothy 
Perkins against a sunny wall ; they are happier on arches 
in the garden, and there are many lovely Roses that will 
thrive only in a warm sheltered position. 

Much may be done to assist climbing Roses that are 
weakly by digging a trench about 6 feet from the stem and 
forking away the soil until plenty of roots are exposed ; the 
old soil is removed and replaced by fresh turfy loam with 
which bonemeal at the rate of a good handful to a barrowf ul 
of soil is mixed. This material is worked well among the 
roots and made firm. Roses jilanted against a hot sunny 
wall are liable to suffer from drought if the spring is dry, 

154 




GRAPE ALICANTE, A GOOD BLACK VARIETY FOR AMATEURS 




RObh, IVIAkUlUSh, Ob SINKJ"!. SHAIJKS Ut- K I-: IJ ANU VhLLOW 



March — Sowing and Planting 

for they benefit little from rainfall ; this is especially the 
case when the soil of the garden is light and sandy. In 
these circumstances much benefit accrues if rotted man- 
ure is placed on the soil round about the stems and 
forked beneath the surface ; this should be followed by a 
thorough watering. 

Planting Roses in Spring. — When planting is carried 
out at this late season greater care is necessary than 
when the work is done in autumn, for the Roses will be 
called upon to make growth before they have had an 
opportunity of forming fresh roots. In the first place, 
the roots are more likely to become dry and to shrivel 
than in November, when the air is moist and there is an 
absence of sunshine; thus it is wise, on receipt of the 
Roses, to dig a trench and bury them for a day or two, 
covering them completely with soil. Again, should the 
weather be warm and dry, it is likely that the roots will 
lack sufficient moisture, and watering above ground has 
not always the desired result. The day before the Roses 
are put in pour a canful of water in the bottom of each 
hole, the soil then will remain moist for a long time. A 
large hole for each plant is essential ; it should be quite 
2 ft. across so as to encourage the qiiick development of 
fresh roots. Basic slag may be mixed with the soil below 
the roots and bonemeal in the soil just above them. 

Roses for Walls. — Requests are often made for a 
selection of Roses for walls of different aspects ; the 
following varieties are among the best for these positions. 
For a wall facing south choose Frangois Crousse, crimson ; 
Lady Waterlow, blush and carmine ; Madame Hector 
Leuilliot, golden yellow ; Climbing Kaiserin Augusta Vic- 
toria, cream ; Reve d'Or, yellow ; Climbing Mrs. Grant, 
pink. For a wall facing west, William Allen Richardson, 
orange-yellow ; Madame Alfred Carri^re, white ; Boviquet 
d'Or, creamy-yellow; NoellaNabonnand, crimson; Madame 
Berard, buff; Zephirine Drouhin, rose; Florence H. Veitch, 
crimson. Facing east, Gloire de Dijon, cream-yellow ; 

155 



Round the Year in the Garden 

Mrs. Stewart Clark, rose ; Conrad P. Meyer, pink ; Aim6e 
Vibert, wliite ; Felicity Perp6tue, white ; Griiss an Teplitz, 
crimson. For a north aspect one probably could not 
do better than select Gloire de Dijon, F61icite Perp6tue, 
and Conrad F. Meyer. Some of the climbing " sports " 
from bush Roses — for example, Climbing Liberty, Climb- 
ing Caroline Testout, and Climbing Lady Ashtown— are 
useful Roses for a fairly sunny wall. Really any of the 
vigorous Hybrid Teas or Hybrid Perpetuals will climb if 
they are put out in good soil against a warm wall — for 
example, Hugh Dickson, La France, Avoca and Madame 
Abel Chatenay. 

Renovating the Lawn. — The present is a suitable 
time to sow grass seeds either for the piirpose of making 
a new lawn or for renovating an old one. If the former 
purpose is in view, the ground should have been prepared 
some weeks ago by digging, removing stones, and raking 
and rolling to obtain a level surface. The seed is sown 
fairly thickly, say, 1 oz. to each IJ square yards; itshovild 
be distributed from north to south and from east to west 
to ensure that the surface is well and regularly covered. 
When sowing is completed the seed is raked beneath the 
soil, the surface is then trodden over and again raked ; 
providing the ground is sufficiently dry, rolling should 
follow. It is far easier to maintain an established lawn 
in good condition than it is to renovate an unsatis- 
factory one, especially if the grass is given hard wear. 
Frequent light applications of sand help considerably 
towards the maintenance of a good sward. 

The work of repairing bare places needs to be done 
thoroughly, or little good is accomplished. It is not 
sufficient to loosen the soil with a rake, sow seeds, and 
cover them ; following such a practice some of the seeds 
may germinate, but many of them will not do so, 
especially if dry, warm weather follows. The soil should 
be dug to the depth of 12 inches and to the extreme edge 
of the bare patch. The suiface having been leaked to a 

156 



March — Sowing and Planting 

fine tiltli, the seed may be sown in confident anticipation 
of its germinating. 

The protection of freshly-sown grass seed is one of 
the annoyances of gardening, yet birds must be kept 
away, or they will take the lot. When the area to be 
protected is small, the use of fish netting placed on short 
sticks to raise it above the ground is perhaps the most 
satisfactory ; there are many varieties of bird scares, bvit 
it is doubtful if any of them fulfil their purpose. On 
a newly-sown lawn of large extent the services of a 
boy with clappers, especially very early in the morning, 
is to be recommended. After all, the annoyance does 
not last long, for in favourable weather the seeds show 
through in about a fortnight, and then are safe, for 
it is the seeds, not the seedlings, that the birds seek. 
The use of a preparation called Horticol, to be obtained 
from nurserymen, is said to prevent the seeds being 
attacked by birds. 

Enriching the Lawn. — Lawns on which the grass 
is thin may be improved by a dressing of sifted soil 
with which bonemeal or guano or any of the advertised 
lawn manures is mixed. It will soon be washed in by 
the rains, and the grass will then derive benefit from 
its application. On lawns infested with clover the use 
of nitrate of soda and sulphate of ammonia is recom- 
mended ; these substances are mixed in equal parts, four 
times the amount of soil being added. When the newly- 
sown grass on patchy lawns has made some progress, it 
may be assisted by watering with a solution of nitrate 
of soda once a week for three or four weeks, | oz. to 
1 gallon of water. 

There is little doubt that the unsatisfactory state of 
many lawns is due to poverty of soil ; year after year 
the lawn is mown, the cut grass being removed ; it is 
probably given hard wear, yet nothing is done to 
counteract the impoverishment of the soil. The lawn, 
as well as the flower beds and borders, needs to be en- 

157 



Round the Year in the Garden 

riched occasionally. It is advisable when mowing a 
lawn on which the sward is thin to dispense with a 
grass box and to allow the cuttings to remain ; providing 
the grass is cut regularly and before it gets long the 
cuttings are not unsightly. There is little doubt that a 
lawn so treated lasts in health longer than one from 
which the cut grass is removed. Not the least of the 
benefits of the grass cuttings is that they help to keep 
the soil moist during dry weather, and as they are soon 
washed out of sight by rain or by water from the hose, 
the advantages of this method, where it is practicable, 
outweigh the disadvantages. 

The Weedy Lawn. — The use of lawn sand offers 
the best means of getting rid of Daisies; though it 
cavises the grass to turn brown, this recovers its normal 
colouring as fresh growth develops. Early in April is 
the time for its aiaplication. The removal of such coarse 
weeds as Dandelion and Plantain is a tedious task, and 
there is probably no better method than rooting out 
each one ; it is not sufficient to cut off the top, for others 
will soon grow if the root is left intact. Piercing the 
heart of each with a pointed wooden skewer dipped in 
sulphuric acid is. also to be recommended, though this 
may not jirove altogether so effective as rooting up the 
weeds. So far as I know, there is no substance that one 
can apply broadcast for getting rid of these coarse- 
growing, deep and strong-rooting weeds. It often 
happens that the lawn verge becomes worn and uneven, 
and consequently unsightly. This may be remedied by 
a simple expedient. All that one has to do is to cut off 
a marginal strip of turf, about 12 or 15 inches wide, 
turn it round, and replace it so that the worn edge is in 
contact with the lawn and the new, straight edge near 
the path. The small space between the broken edge 
and the lawn proper is filled with sifted soil ; seeds are 
sown there, and soon it will be difficult to detect any 
signs of the patching. 

158 



March — Sowing and Planting 

Planting Border Carnations. — Amateurs generally 
do not seem to get full satisfaction from their Border 
Carnations, but the fault is their own ; one, or perhaps 
two, flower stems usually represent the harvest of bloom 
from a single plant. Yet this is by no means its full 
productive capacity. Among the chief causes of failure 
are late planting and putting out layers that are in- 
sufficiently rooted. It is hopeless to expect a satisfac- 
tory display from Carnations put out now unless they 
are in pots; layers detached from the parent plant at 
this season, and forthwith planted, are not likely to 
bloom well ; the root disturbance is so considerable that 
they have not time fully to recover before the flower 
stems are due. Plants put out from pots need be dis- 
turbed scarcely at all, it is necessary merely to remove 
the crocks and to disentangle the roots slightly with a 
pointed stick. Needless to say, the border shovild be 
well prepared before the Carnations are planted. If the 
soil is ordinarily good a scattering of bonemeal at the 
rate of a handful to the square yard will provide all the 
fertiliser that is necessary until the flower spikes show, 
when diluted liquid manure will prove beneficial. Some 
really first-class varieties are Mrs. Robert Gordon, pink ; 
Elizabeth Shiffner, buff ; Amy Robsart, white ; Rony 
Buchanan, rose and terra-cotta; Agnes Sorrel, dark 
crimson ; Brigadier, scarlet ; Ellen Douglas, grey ; and 
Border Yellow, yellow. 

Violas or Tufted Pansies are charming flowers, and 
none can afford to dispense with them ; if the faded 
flowers are picked off, the plants continue to bloom 
throughout the summer. They are useful for planting 
among Roses, in groups in the mixed flower border, or 
as a ground-covering or margin to Rose beds. Cuttings 
inserted in boxes or in a frame last September have 
formed well-rooted plants by now, and may be put out 
of doors towards the end of this month. There are 
numerous varieties, of colours to suit all tastes, and many 

159 



Round the Year in the Garden 

nurserymen have different names for similar sorts. One 
of the most satisfactory of all for the garden is Maggie 
Mott, of lavender-blue colouring; it blooms most pro- 
fusely from early until late summer. It is possible to 
form some simple though effective colour schemes with 
Roses and Tufted Pansies, providing the former are 
fairly correctly grouped in colours. For example, the 
variety Maggie Mott looks best beneath pink Roses ; 
yellow Violas associate best with crimson Roses ; purple 
Violas with yellow Roses, and so on. 

Pentstemons, though really hardy perennials in many 
gardens, are commonly raised from cuttings in Sep- 
tember, like Tufted Pansies, and the young plants are 
put out now. Some of the smaller-jQowered varieties are, 
I think, more attractive than the larger ones. Three 
that especially appeal to me are Newbury Gem, Southgate 
Gem and Myddleton Gem. 

Hardy Annuals. — Hardy Annuals are, in some ways, 
the easiest of all flowers to grow, and there is the 
temptation, for that reason, to pay little heed to their 
likes and dislikes, but merely to sow them and to hope 
for the best. Useful as they are when given fair treat- 
ment, they are .perhaps the most unsatisfactory of all 
hardy flowers when left entirely to look after them- 
selves. Their lives are so short — they flower from seed 
in about three months — that they have no chance of 
recovering from neglect and indifferent cultivation. 
Annuals are commonly regarded as of value for filling 
blanks in the mixed border, but to set them among tall 
perennials, as is often done, is simply to court failure ; 
they need sunshine and fresh air. They provide the 
finest display when grown in beds in the open, garden or 
in patches towards the front of the mixed border where 
they will not be overshadowed by more vigorous neigh- 
bours. Some of them may be grouped towards the 
margin of the Rose beds if their presence there is not 
objected to. 

i6o 




A ROW OF MODERN SWEET PEAS 



March — Sowing and Planting 

Seed of most kiuds is so freely supplied by seedsmen 
that one is always liable to sow too thickly. Next in 
importance to sowing thinly comes the task of thinning 
out the seedlings ; it is astonishing how even low grow- 
ing kinds like Nemophila will spread into large tufts if 
they have the necessary space. Moreover, a few plants 
well grown produce a finer display than three times the 
number of others that are ill-developed. As soon as the 
surface is fairly dry the soil should be pulverised, a little 
leafmould and sand being mixed in where the seeds are 
to be sown if this seems necessary. It is useless to put 
the seeds in wet, lumpy soil ; very few of them will 
germinate. It may be advisable to sow seeds in a frame 
or in boxes and subsequently to transplant the seedlings 
out of doors. In fact, those who wish to grow half- 
hardy annuals, yet possess no heated greenhouse, ought 
to sow seeds now in prepared soil in a frame ; this is 
more satisfactory than sowing the seed out of doors 
later on. 

There are innumerable hardy annuals from which to 
choose, but the following ought to be considered indis- 
pensable. Sweet Alyssum and its dwarf variety, variously 
known as Little Dorrit, compacta, etc. ; annual Chrysan- 
themums, which bear showy Marguerite-like blooms of 
various colours ; Rose Mallow (Lavatera rosea), a tall 
plant, about 3 feet high, bearing lovely rose-coloured 
flowers ; Love-in-a-Mist (Nigella hispauica), the variety 
Miss Jekyll being chosen ; Coreopsis Drummondi and 
tinctoria, which give an abundance of blossom, the 
former yellow and brown, the latter yellow; Clarkia, of 
which there are now some showy varieties ; Candytuft, 
in a variety of colours ; Delphinium, or Annual Larkspur, 
of which especial mention should be made of Blue Butter- 
fly and the rose-scarlet ; Sweet Peas ; the brilliant red 
Flax (Linum grandiflorum rubrum) ; Mignonette ; Poppies 
in variety, but especially the Shirley Poppies, and 
umbrosum, a magnificent red and black sort. 
L i6i 



Round the Year in the Garden 

There are many others from which a selection may 
be made to suit individual choice. A few call for special 
mention. The blue Woodruff (Asperula azurea setosa) 
is a charming little plant full of blossom for weeks 
together, and it aijpreciates a certain amount of shade. 
The Violet Cress (lonopsidium acaule) is the smallest of 
all annvials, and is suitable for sowing in the rock garden 
or between the chinks in a paved path. It is only about 
2 inches high, and bears tiny pale-mauve blooms. One 
may have the Nemesia in various colours now, but none 
is so beautiful as the blue variety, a plant that none 
should miss. The seeds of Nemesia ought not to be 
sown out of doors before April, though the seedlings 
may be raised now in a frame or greenhouse. The 
annual Bellflowers are not often seen, but at least one 
of them (Campanula macrostyla) is handsome. The 
blooms are large and of bluish shade. Another pretty 
sort is Campanula attica. Various so-called Everlastings 
are found among the annuals. Helichrysum is the most 
vigorous, and bears large blooms of various colours on 
stems some 2 feet high. Daintiest of the Everlastings 
is Acroclinium, of slender grovrth ; the flowers may be 
had in rose or. white. 

The Mixed Border. — A careful selection of plants is 
essential to a satisfactoi-y and continued display in the 
hardy flower border, and there is little doubt that if 
greater variety characterised the average mixed border 
the show of blossom would be more prolonged and give 
deeper delight. Everyone grows Lupins, Larkspurs, Orien- 
tal Poppies, Hollyhocks, Phlox, and other familiar plants, 
and they are without doubt indispensable. But others, 
not so well known, or at least not so widely grown, 
are essential to full success. Take for instance some 
of the most vigorous perennials, a few plants of which 
give an air of distinction to the display : such, for 
example, as the Meadow Rue, Thalictrum angustifolium, 
which grows 6 feet high, and aquilegifolium, reaching 

162 



March — Sowing and Planting 

some 4 feet only ; Stenantliium robustum, bearing white- 
blossomed plumes 5 feet or more high; Linaria dalmatica, 
with an abundance of light yellow blossom; Spiraea 
gigantea, a white-flowered kind, 6 feet high ; Eupatorium 
purpureum, Cimicifuga racemosa, Scabiosa lutea, Eryn- 
gium giganteum, one of the Sea Hollies, and Echinops 
exaltatus, a giant Globe Thistle. All these are hardy 
plants of vigorous growth and bold, distinct appearance, 
and can scarcely fail to give character and welcome variety 
to the border arranged only with more familiar kinds. 

Other beautiful hardy plants that occur to one as 
being unworthily neglected are Campanula lactiflora, and 
its white variety, two very delightful free-blossoming 
plants growing some 4 feet high ; Campanula latifolia 
macrantha, of similar stature, with big, handsome purple 
blooms ; the newer Astilbes or Spiraeas, with lovely 
plumes in various shades of pink and rose; Artemisia 
lactiflora, a most graceful plant, some 5 feet high, and 
bearing in August and September sprays of creamy-white 
blossom in profusion. Further, one might mention Salvia 
virgata nemorosa, a valuable purple-blue border flower, 
blooming throughout a long svimmer season, and looking 
always neat ; the exquisite blue Salvia patens, having 
tubex'ous roots, that need to be stored during winter ; 
Achillea Kelwayi, a fine yellow-flowered perennial ; the 
rose-coloured Yarrow (Achillea Millefolium rosea) ; 
Veronica spicata, a good blue flower, virginica, blush- 
white, subsessilis, violet-blue, gentianoides, pale blue, and 
incana, a pretty grey-leaved dwarf plant suitable for the 
margin of a border or walk. 

Completion of Planting. — Now is the time to com- 
plete the planting of the mixed border ; the longer the 
work is delayed the fewer are the chances of a fine 
display next summer. There is no preparation so good 
as digging the soil 2 feet deep, for this provides the 
roots with a " good run," and enables them to make quick 
progress ; if farmyard manure is difficult to obtain, bone- 

163 



Round the Year in the Garden 

meal is an excellent fertiliser to use at this season. It 
should be scattered on the soil at the rate of about 4 oz. 
to the square yard and then forked in. During the last 
week or so the tufts of perennials have made marked 
progi'ess, enabling one easily to see where the plants are, 
and incidentally allowing the soil between them to be 
turned over with a fork. This work does a lot of good in 
aerating and " sweetening " the soil, and if bonemeal is 
mixed in at the rate advised, the plants will grow all the 
more strongly for its help. 

Bulbs tor Spring Planting. — The planting of bulbs 
is naturally associated with garden work in autumn, and 
that is the season at which most bulbs are put in. Some 
kinds are commonly planted in spring, in February or 
early March, and among them are flowers of great value 
and indispensable to every garden. The Cape Hyacinth 
(Hyacinthus candicans) is a handsome plant that forms 
a tuft of large, rather untidy leaves, and in late summer 
bears white, drooping, bell-shaped flowers on a tall, stout 
stem : the bulbs should be planted about 3 inches deep. 
It makes a most handsome lawn bed for August. Among 
Lilies (Liliums) that are usually planted in spring the 
Golden-rayed Lily (auratum) is perhaps the greatest 
favourite, though as a rule the bulbs are not long-lived 
unless in peaty soil among shrubs ; there they are likely 
to prove more lasting. The finest varieties of this Lily 
are rubro-vittatum, marked with a reddish band down 
each petal, and platyphyllum, white, spotted with crim- 
son ; these are, however, expensive, each bulb costing 
twice or three times as much as one of the typical sort, 
which varies considerably, some forms showing deeper 
colouring and more spots than others. The Japanese Lily 
(speciosum) is another kind that is largely grown, and of 
this there are several handsome varieties. Speciosum 
Kraetzeri is a lovely white Lily, Melpomene is heavily 
marked with crimson, and rubrum is spotted and tinged, 
though less heavily, with rose and crimson. 

164 



March — Sowing and Planting 

The varieties of both these Lilies are suitable for 
planting either in the garden border or for growing in 
flower-pots. In the border the bulbs should be at such 
a depth that there is 5 inches of soil above them, since 
roots form on the stem above the bulb as well as from 
the base of the latter. If grown in flower-pots, those 
of 6 or 7 inches in diameter, according to the size of 
the bulb, are most suitable. The bulbs should be jilaced 
low in the pot, to allow of top-dressing later on. They 
need be only just covered with soil until growth has 
started, and a frame from which frost is excluded is the 
best place for them ; a compost of turfy soil, with a little 
leafmould or peat and sand added, is satisfactory, and 
there should be good drainage. 

The Tiger Lily (Lilium tigrinum) is a most reliable 
kind, and in average soil can be relied upon to reappear 
each spring without fail ; so, too, may Lilium speciosum 
and its varieties. Splendens and Fortunei are two fine 
varieties of the Tiger Lily ; this is a stem-rooting kind, 
and the bulbs should be planted at a similar depth as 
advised for those above named. The Trumpet Lily 
(Lilium longiflorum) is not generally satisfactory out of 
doors for long, though it is unsurpassed as a Lily for 
pots. 

The old Orange Lily (Lilium croceum) is perhaps the 
hardiest and sturdiest of all, and almost every cottage 
garden possesses its giant clump ; the brilliant orange-red 
flowers make a brave show in June. Early autumn is 
really the time to plant bulbs of this sort, though they 
may be put in now. Davuricum and its varieties, of 
which there are many, has flowers of orange-red shades 
chiefly ; it is one of the good-natured sorts. Before 
planting Lily bulbs, even those of the easiest cultivation, 
it is wise to mix sand and leafmovild freely with heavy 
ground, and to choose if possible a place among low 
shrubs or other plants, so that the young stems may have 
some protection as they develop. Most other Lilies 

165 



Round the Year in the Garden 

suitable for planting out of doors are best put in the 
ground in early autumn to ensure their flowering the 
following season. However, if bulbs can be obtained, 
there is no reason why others should not be put in 
now, if autumn planting was neglected, but they may 
not bloom during the coming summer. 

Iris and Montbretia. — Spanish and English Irises, 
though suitable for autumn planting, are often put in at 
this season ; they are easy bulbs, and so gay as to be quite 
indispensable in both the flower beds and borders, and 
here and there in the rock garden ; the colours of the 
Spanish Iris are chiefly blue, white and yellow, while 
flowers of the English Iris are chiefly white and of 
purple, blue and mauve shades : they may be left 
undisturbed for several years, until, in fact, the clumps 
become crowded, which they are likely to do in three or 
four seasons. Ixias are well worth trying out of doors in 
well-drained, warm places in the rock garden, or in a 
sunny border ; they will not thrive in cold, heavy soil, 
but, providing leafmould and sand are freely mixed 
in, and the border is drained, they offer little difficulty ; 
some protection in winter is advisable. Needless to say 
they thrive admirably in pots in the greenhouse. 

Montbretias are invaluable for spring planting ; their 
showy flowers, in shades of orange and yellow, add 
greatly to the gaiety of the garden when the chief 
summer flowers are waning. It is not necessary to 
disturb the roots in autumn, thovigh some growers take 
them up each year, and replant in spring. Probably one 
gets the finest flowers in this way, since an opportunity 
is offered of sorting the roots and replanting in the show 
beds only the biggest that are sure to bloom. I grow 
them in rather heavy, loamy soil, some in sunshine, some 
in shade, and they are only taken up and replanted every 
three years. There are some lovely new named varieties 
obtainable, though these are expensive in comparison 
with older kinds, such as Pottsi and aurantiaca ; the roots 

1 66 



March — Sowing and Planting 

should be planted some 2 or 3 inches deep. Montbretia 
rosea is a charming kind with rose-pink blossoms. The 
correct botanical name of Montbretia is now Tritonia, 
though for garden purposes the former is much more 
familiar. 

Planting Gladioli. — ^There are now so many sections 
of Gladioli that the uninitiated may become puzzled 
in attempting to form a selection. The chief groups are 
those known as gandavensis, Lemoinei, Childsi and 
nanceianus. The gandavensis group is the oldest of 
all, the varieties are late flowering, and the colour range 
is a wide one. Bulbs of seedlings comprising many 
charming shades of colour can be obtained more cheaply 
than named varieties. The Lemoinei Gladioli were raised 
by M. Lemoine, a French nurseryman, by cross-breeding 
between Gladiolus gandavensis and another kind, pur- 
pureo auratus ; they are known popularly as the Butterfly 
flowered Gladioli, owing to the distinct coloiir blotches 
found on the flowers, which are generally smaller than 
those of the gandavensis type. The nanceianus kinds are 
distinguished by a looser spike of bloom and large flowers. 
Among the Lemoinei and nanceianus types are found 
some exquisite colourings, especially of blue shades. The 
Childsii Gladioli are fine, vigorous sorts containing some 
beautiful flowers in which shades of yellow are often 
prominent. One should not lose sight of the old red- 
flowered Gladiolus brenchleyensis, which is very easily 
grown and requires little attention in the way of staking, 
and this is more than can be said for some of the newer 
sorts, whose larger blooms render the stems top-heavy. 
The bulbs of Gladioli should be planted 3 or 4 inches 
deep, according to the size of the root (which is techni- 
cally a corm), in soil that has been deeply dug ; wood ashes 
are an excellent material to mix in the soil, failing this 
bonemeal may be used with advantage. They should be 
placed 8 to 10 inches apart, so that each plant may have 
sufficient room in which to develop. 

167 



Round the Year in the Garden 

In the Rock Garden. — No time should be lost in 
completing the planting of the rock garden, otherwise 
the plants will scarcely have time to become sufficiently- 
established to produce a satisfactory show of flowers, for 
most of them blossom in April, May and June. At this 
late planting season it is of great advantage to obtain 
alpines in pots, then root disturbance is slight, and there 
is no check to their progress. Well-drained, gritty soil 
is essential to success with most kinds, and a general 
compost consists of two-thirds loam or turfy soil, one- 
third peat or leaf soil, with an addition of grit or sand. 
Such a mixture will suit many Alpine Pinks, Cushion 
and Silvery Saxifrages, Campaniilas, Sedumg, Aubrietias, 
Alyssum, Veronica, Geranium and other showy kinds. 
The lovely blue-flowered Lithospermum prostratum 
thrives best in peat, so too do Epimedium, Ramon- 
dia pyrenaica, Trillium or Wood Lily, some of the 
Primulas — for instance, frondosa, farinosa, sikkimensis 
and rosea— Cypripedium, Haberlea rhodopensis and Lin- 
naea borealis. The addition of lime to the soil greatly 
benefits many alpines, such as Silvery Saxifrages, Edel- 
weiss, Alpine Poppy, Androsace lanuginosa, Acanthol- 
imon, Potentilla nitida. Primula Auricula, Aethionema, 
and others. 

It is wise when putting in choice alpines, and especially 
if the soil is not really well-drained, to make a sort of 
moraine for each plant or group of plants. This is 
accomplished by digging out a hole some 12 inches deep, 
filling the lower 6 inches with stone or broken brick, and 
the remaining 6 inches with a mixture of prepared compost 
and stone chips. The glass covering may now be removed 
from those alpines that were protected in this manner 
during winter as a precaution against damage by excessive 
wet. Such a covering seems in some cases to induce 
alpines to flower that otherwise might not do so ; this 
is especially noticeable with the charming little purple 
Snowflower, Soldanella alpina. 

i68 



March — Sowing and Planting 

Clipping Ivy. — The complaint is often made that 
after some years Ivy becomes unsightly owing to the 
large size of the leaves and their dull colouring, and 
to the fact that the creeper harbours dust and dirt. 
The remedy is a very simple one, namely, to clip the 
Ivy severely at this season of the year. All the old 
leaves may be removed and the plant cut back close 
to the wall. As spring progresses, fresh, clean leaves 
will appear, and clothe the wall Avith a mantle of 
delightful green. If this work is carried out in the 
depth of winter the creeper remains bare and un- 
sightly for weeks ; if, however, it is deferred until 
late in March or early April, fresh g^jpwth soon shows, 
and the stems are bare only for a short time. It is a 
matter both for wonder and regret that some of the 
ornamental-leaved Ivies are not more often grown in 
place of the common green kind. They may not be 
quite so vigorous, but they are much more attractive, 
and in suitable positions grow quite strongly enough. 
Maderensis variegata is one of the best. 

A shrub the pruning of which is often inquired 
about is the St. John's Wort (Hypericum calycinum), 
an admirable little plant for covering the ground in 
shady places. It, too, needs to be cut hard every 
second year, then fresh growth springs up strongly 
from the base and in due course bears its large and 
showy golden-yellow blossoms. 

Early - flowering Chrysanthemums are among the 
finest border plants of late summer and autumn, and 
every garden ought to find room for a few. The 
present is an excellent time to lift and divide the old 
clumps, or to take cuttings, many of which may be 
detached already possessing roots. Those that have 
not, will quickly become rooted in a frame, if this is 
kept closed for a week or two. 

Climbers for a North Wall. — A north wall is under- 
stood to mean one having a northern aspect, the worst 

169 



Round the Year in the Garden 

possible position for plants generally, owing to lack of 
sunshine. Yet a few climbers are sufficiently accom- 
modating to thrive there. The Winter Jasmine ( Jasminum 
nudiflorum), Golden Bell (Forsythia suspensa), Japanese 
Quince (Pyrus japonica), the variegated (silver and gold) 
Ivies, and the Climbing Hydrangea are among the 
most useful climbers for a shady wall. The latter 
seems not to be well known. When established it 
clings to the wall like Ivy, by means of stem roots ; it 
is leaf - losing, and in summer bears flat bunches of 
white blossom. It is essential to have the ground 
drained and well dug so that the soil does not become 
sodden. This practice tends to assist the " ripening of 
the wood," towards which, in a more favourable aspect, 
sunshine is so important a factor. The branches of the 
climbers must be arranged thinly ; if they are allowed 
to become crowded there is less chance than ever of 
their bearing flowers. Among the rampant climbers 
suitable for a north wall, those impossible of attach- 
ment in orthodox fashion by means of nails and 
shreds, are the Traveller's Joy (Clematis Vitalba), 
Virgin's Bower (Clematis flammula) and the beautiful 
Polygonum baldschuanicum. Roses suitable for a 
north w^all have already been mentioned. 

Hotbeds. — Those who do not possess a glasshouse 
will find a hotbed to be of great advantage, for by its 
aid seedlings of many favourite plants can be raised. 
The most xiseful hotbed is made of leaves and strawy 
manure, which may be mixed together in about equal 
quantities. This mixture, while not giving so mxich 
warmth as manure alone, is more lasting and therefore 
likely to be generally useful. The manure ought to be 
turned over thoroughly several times before being made 
up, and the hotbed must be trodden firmly, otherwise 
it will not retain heat. If a 6-inch layer of soil is 
placed upon the leaves and manure, half-hardy annuals 
and vegetables in variety may be raised there with 

170 




TEA AND HYBRID TEA ROSES— HUGO ROLLER, BETTY, 
MME. LEON PAIN, AND OTHERS 



March — Sowing and Planting 

ease. The hotbed ought to be from 2 to 3 feet thick, 
and a frame be lalaced upon it. 



In the Greenhouse 

This is a busy month in the greenhouse, and the 
available space will be taxed to the utmost. There are 
half -hardy annuals to sow, seedlings of which will be 
planted out of doors next month. Of these the Summer 
Cypress (Kochia scoparia) is one of the worthiest; it 
forms a miniature tree of exquisite green and in late 
summer turns red and brown. It is best to put the 
seedlings singly in small pots when they are trans- 
ferred from the seed box. Stocks and Asters are, of 
course, invaluable half - hardy annuals, and the pros- 
pective grower has a wide choice of types and varieties 
exhibiting a considerable range of colour. The seedlings 
may be raised in boxes of soil placed in a frame or green- 
house. When large enough to handle they are best 
transplanted to a bed of soil made up in a frame, there 
to remain until planting out time late in April. Phlox 
Drummondi is another favourite among half - hardy 
annuals, and a packet of mixed seed gives varied 
colours. Many gardeners treat Nemesia as a half-hardy 
annual, though seeds may be sown out of doors early 
in April. The flowers show considerable range of 
colour among shades of orange and yellow, but the 
blue is loveliest of all. The Butterfly Flower (Schizan- 
thus), Salpiglossis and African and French Marigold are 
other favourites. 

Annuals for the Greenhouse. — There are many 
charming flowers among annuals suitable for grooving 
in pots in the greenhouse, and as they help to provide 
blossom when it is likely otherwise to be scarce, some 
ought certainly to be grown. The Torenia — of which 
there are two kinds, Fournieri, white and violet-coloured, 
and Bailloni, yellow and purple — is very attractive. 

171 



Round the Year in the Garden 

Arctotis grandis, greyish, and Arctotis brevlscapa, 
orange, are two handsome plants with large. Mar- 
guerite - like blossoms. A charming creeping plant 
suitable for a hanging basket is Thunbergia alata, buff 
with dark centre. Lobelia tenuior is a particularly 
graceful blue-flowered plant of slender growth. The 
blue Stonecrop (Sedum coeruleum) is a charming little 
flower suitable either for sowing now for pots or out of 
doors on the rockery next month. The Statices, or Sea 
Lavenders, make handsome pot plants, and especially 
Suworowi, which bears spire of bright rose - coloured 
bloom. Of Everlastings one may choose either Rho- 
danthe or Acroclinium : both are dainty. Then there 
are Petunias for those who like them, but it is wise 
to choose the colours with care, for some of them har- 
monise with nothing else. The Tobaccos (Nicotiana), 
which are obtainable in a variety of colours, are 
perhaps too vigorous for a small greenhouse, but they 
ought certainly to be sown preparatory to being planted 
out of doors next month. The Grenadin and Marguerite 
Carnations, which bloom in about six months from 
seed, are very welcome in the greenhovise in August, 
and are well suited to cultivation in pots. An uncommon 
though meritorious annual for the greenhouse is called 
Browallia elata, having blue flowers. Finally, there is 
the Globe Amaranth, with so-called everlasting flowers 
in various attractive colours. 

Winter-flowering Begonias ai-e perfect flowers for a 
heated greenhouse. When the blooms are over the plants 
are given gradually less water, and finally are partially 
" dried off " for two or three weeks. If watering is now 
resumed fresh growths will soon form, and these are 
taken off and inserted as cuttings. They become rooted 
in a short time if put in pots of sandy soil in a pro- 
pagating case in the warm greenhouse. It is not wise 
to attempt the cultivation of these plants unless a 
minimum winter temperature of about 55 '^ can be main- 

172 



March — Sowing and Planting 

tained. Gloire de Lorraine, with pink flowers, is chief 
favourite among those bearing a profusion of small blooms, 
and the white variety called Turnf ord Hall, too, is valuable. 
Another class of winter Begonias bears larger and 
showier flowers, though they are not produced quite so 
freely as by plants of the Gloire de Lorx'aine type. The 
shades of colour are chiefly pink, rose, red and orange-red. 
A few good varieties are John Heal, Emily Clibrans 
Winter Perfection, Ensign and Winter Cheer. 

Winter-flowering Carnations. — Cuttings ought now 
to be inserted to provide plants that will bloom next 
spring. The growths most suitable for cuttings are those 
found on the central portion of the stem. Cuttings of 
Perpetual Carnations that were rooted early in the year 
and are now in small pots may be " stopped " — in other 
words, the top of the shoots ought to be pulled out — 
to induce side shoots to form. It is usual to stop the 
young plants twice— first when they are about 6 inches 
high, and again when fresh shoots have reached a similar 
length — but all " stopping " should be completed by the 
middle or the end of June. As has been pointed out 
already, cuttings of Perpetual Carnations form roots 
most readily in boxes or pots of silver sand placed on the 
hot-water pipes. 

Dahlias are readily increased by means of cuttings. 
These are obtained by potting the old roots or by placing 
them in boxes of soil. If the latter is kept moist they 
will soon start into growth, and when the fresh shoots 
are 3 or 4 inches long they are taken off and inserted 
as cuttings. In small pots of sandy soil placed beneath 
a handlight in the greenhouse they soon take root. It 
then remains but to repot into slightly larger pots when 
the smaller ones are full of roots, and to harden them 
off gradually for planting out of doors in late May or 
early June. Flowers of the finest quality are produced 
by fresh plants raised annually, but those who do not 
wish to go to this trouble may now start the old roots 

173 



Round the Year in the Garden 

into growth in the greenhouse and plant them out of 
doors, undisturbed, in May. Still another Tvay is to plant 
the old roots in the open garden in April. They yield an 
abundance of flowers which are usually smaller than 
those obtained from young plants. There are now many 
classes of Dahlias, and numerous varieties in each class. 
Those best suited for garden display and for cutting for 
the home are the Single, Decorative, Collarette, Paeony- 
flowered and Pompon Dahlias. Many of the Cactus 
varieties bear flowers having weak stems, and the foliage 
is often so luxuriant as to detract from the display of 
blossom. The old show Dahlias are imposing, but they 
take up a lot of room. The finest Dahlia for the garden 
is, so far as I have seen, a decorative variety called 
Kaiserin Augusta Victoria, bearing an abundance of double 
white blossoms. Two others almost equally valuable are 
Glare of the Garden, reddish, and Orange Glare of the 
Garden, orange-red. But the Collarette Dahlias, in which 
the inner ring of florets is of a different colour from the 
remaining poi'tion of the flower, are admirable for the 
garden, while of the Singles one cannot speak too highly. 
The Paeony-flowered and the Giant Decorative are tall, 
vigorous plants that bear large semi-double blooms in 
a variety of brilliant colours. 

Geraniums for Winter. — Zonal Pelargoniums, or 
Geraniums as they are more commonly called, are among 
the most brilliant winter flowers for the greenhouse. A 
minimum temperature of from 55° to 60° is necessary if 
they are to be really good. Those who possess old plants 
should cut them back now and insert the fresh growths 
as cuttings, using small pots filled with sandy soil and 
giving little water until roots have formed. They should 
not be put in a closed propagating case or they may 
"damp off," When the cuttings are rooted they are 
repotted into larger pots, and during summer are grown 
in an airy, sunny frame. The tops must be pinched off to 
promote the growth of side shoots, and all flower buds 

174 




m 



AN ARCH OF ROSE CLAIRE JACQUIER 

(Pale yellow) 

This variety is only satisfactory in a w/arm position. 




Photo: R. A. Malhy. 

A CAUCASIAN PRIMROSE FOR THE ROCK GARDEN 

(PRIMULA JULIAE) 

(Rose purple) 



March — Sowing and Planting 

that show should be I'emoved until within a few weeks 
of the plants' transference to the greenhouse, which will 
be late in September. The best soil to use for Zonal 
Geraniums is turf loam, with which a little leaf soil is 
mixed, together with a free sprinkling of sand. 

The Scarlet Sage (Salvia splendens) is valuable as a 
winter flower in the greenhouse. If the old plants are 
partially cut down and kept in a moist and warm atmo- 
sphere, new shoots suitable for cuttings soon make their 
appearance, and in pots of light soil in the propagating 
case quickly form roots. They must be repotted as be- 
comes necessary in a compost of loam with a little leaf- 
mould and sand, and during summer are kept in a cool 
and sunny frame. The shoots must be stopped to ensure 
the development of well branched plants. Cuttings of 
Fuchsias are easily obtained from old plants, the branches 
of which have been shortened; they form roots readily 
if treated as advised. 

Tuberous Begonias, either for cultivation in pots or 
planting out of doors, ought to be taken from the pots or 
boxes of sand in which they have passed the winter. If 
placed in boxes filled with light, leafy soil and partly 
covered, the roots soon produce fresh growths, and may 
then be potted separately in a mixture of loam, leaf- 
mould and sand. If repotted, later on, into 6-inch pots 
and kept in a cool and airy greenhouse, they piovide an 
excellent display throughout the summer. Out of doors. 
Tuberous Begonias prefer a somewhat shady position. 

Gloxinias are commonly regarded as hothouse flowers, 
yet they thrive admirably in an oixUnary greenhouse, 
providing roots are obtained now and treated as advised 
for Tuberous Begonias. During summer they need to be 
kept cool and shaded. Seed may be sown now to provide 
roots that will blossom next year. To produce plants 
from seed to blossom the first year it is necessary to sow 
in warmth in January, 

It is the custom to place several cuttings of bedding 

175 



Round the Year in the Garden 

plants in one pot early in spring for the sake of conveni- 
ence, and the plan answers well, providing at this season 
they are repotted separately in small pots. If this is not 
done the roots will become matted together, and growth 
will be checked. This remark has reference to such as 
Geranium, Fuchsia, Heliotrope, Marguerite and others 
used for a similar purpose. 

The Blue-flowered Coleus is an excellent plant for 
winter bloom in the greenhouse ; its long spikes, bearing 
numerous small, blue flowers, make a striking and un- 
common display. Those possessing old plants may raise 
a fresh supply by means of cuttings taken from the 
growths, which quickly follow when the stems of the old 
plants are shortened. It needs only the shelter of a cold 
frame in summer. The points of the shoots must be 
pinched out occasionally to make the plants branch 
freely, and repotting should be given as required, the 
final pots being those 6 inches wide. The commoner 
kinds of Coleus, those grown for the sake of their hand- 
some leaves, may also be grown from cuttings inserted 
now ; they are obtained from old plants which have been 
partially cut back, and form roots readily in pots of light 
soil in a closed . case in the greenhouse. These kinds of 
Coleus may also be raised from seed, though it is best to 
sow rather earlier in the year to produce really good 
specimens. 

Those who are growing Chrysanthemums for the 
production of large blooms must attend to the repotting 
of the young plants as soon as this becomes necessary. 
Early repotting is more than ever necessary when several 
were placed in one flower-pot. Chrysanthemums must 
be kept as cool as possible, and a cold frame is the best 
place for them from now until they are placed out of 
doors ; even there, air miist be admitted freely, except 
when the weather is cold. Protection by means of mats 
at night is advisable. 

When bulbs grown in pots in the greenhouse have 

176 



March — Sowing and Planting 

finished flowering, it is not necessary to throw them 
away, as so many people do, for if planted out of doors 
in odd corners where there happens to be room, they will 
continue to increase in beauty year by year. This is 
especially true of Daffodils, and in a lesser degree of 
Tulips and Hyacinths, though even they, or at least the 
best of them, are worth saving. Roman Hyacinths and 
the earliest Tulips, however, are best thrown away. 

The Chimney Bellflower (Campanula pyramidalis) 
is one of the most striking of all the plants in this family, 
and when the 5- or 6-feet high stems are clothed with 
blue or white blossom in July, they make an imposing 
display. This Bellflower is commonly treated as a 
biennial, but unless seed is sown sufficiently early in 
the season, the plants will not blossom the following 
year. If, however, seed is sown during March no anxiety 
need be felt. The seed will soon germinate if kept moist 
and shaded in the greenhouse, and the seedlings must 
subsequently be repotted singly in small pots. If re- 
potted as becomes necessary in loamy soil, and kept 
in a frame throughout summer, they will be excellent 
plants before winter. During winter the protection of an 
ordinary frame or greenhouse is sufficient, for this plant 
is really hardy. In spring the final repotting is given, 
pots 8 or 9 inches in diameter being chosen, and the 
plants will blossom in July. 

Repotting Room Plants. — This is the season at which 
ferns, palms. Aspidistra, Dracaena and other plants com- 
monly grown in rooms are repotted if necessary. As 
a rule these plants thrive best in comparatively small pots, 
especially when grown in a room, and unless they really 
need a " shift, " as the gardener puts it, they ought not to 
be given a larger pot. Often all that is required is to 
remove as mvich as possible of the surface soil, to see that 
the drainage is satisfactory, and to replace with fresh 
compost the soil taken off. Those that must be repotted 
should be placed in only slightly larger pots. Palms 
M 177 



Round the Year in the Garden 

prefer a compost consisting chiefly of peat, >vitli which a 
little loam and some sand are mixed. For ferns a good 
general mixture is that of loam two thirds and peat 
or leaf soil one third, with sand freely intermixed. 
Aspidistra, Dracaena, Araucaria, Aralia and other com- 
mon room plants are also well suited by similar compost. 
Plants of Ficus or India-rubber, Aralia and Dracaena, 
which have become bare of leaves at the base or " leggy " 
may be rejuvenated by the process known as " ringing. " 
A ring of bark is removed just beneath the lowest leaf (a 
slit made in the stem at that point answers the same 
purpose), moss is tied round it and kei^t moist by syringing. 
In due course roots will issue, and when it is seen that 
they are plentiful the stem is gradually cut thi'ough. 
Finally, in the course of two weeks or so, the stem is 
severed and the new plant is potted. Maidenhair Ferns 
usually become shabby during the winter ; the old fronds 
may now be cut off to make way for the fresh ones that 
will soon replace them. All green-leaved plants that are 
grown for the sake of their leaves, need shade and 
moisture; on the contrary, those having brilliantly 
coloured foliage should be exposed to the sunshine. 

In the Fruit Garden 

Planting Fruit Trees. — The planting of fruit trees 
out of doors ought to be completed without delay. It is 
late even now for this work, and crops of any value 
cannot be expected this year. Large holes should be 
prepared, no manure being used, the uppermost roots 
must be within 2 inches or so of the surface, and the 
soil made firm. Fruit trees now in bloom on walls should 
be protected if possible in case of frost. This is most 
conveniently carried out by means of light canvas sup- 
ported by poles to keep it off the trees. In large gardens, 
canvas blinds are fixed to the wall so that they can be 
rolled up and down as may be needed. The protection 

178 



March — Sowing and Planting 

of fruit trees iu the open quarter is a matter of greater 
difficulty. The best results are obtained by means of 
special open stoves in which fires are lit when frosty 
weather threatens ; it is found that the warmth of the 
smoke is sufficient to prevent the flowers being damaged. 

Grafting Fruit Trees, — The most useful method of 
grafting, since it enables one to make old fruit trees 
into new ones and to substitute valuable varieties for 
worthless ones, is that known as crown or rind grafting. 
The old branches are cut back to within a convenient 
distance of the trunk, say 12 to 18 inches, and the grafts 
or scions are inserted round the edge of the stock, 
between the bark and the wood of the shortened 
branches. Each scion is pointed so that it may be in- 
serted easily behind the bark, and 2 or 3 inches from the 
pointed end a horizontal cut is made half way through 
the scion ; this fits easily on the upper surface of the 
stock and has the effect of keeping the scion firm. 
Three or four or even more scions may be grafted on 
each shortened branch. The process is completed by 
covering the base of the scions with grafting wax or 
clay, so that air is excluded. Seccotine is said to answer 
the purpose just as well, and it is certainly convenient 
to use. 

Unless iDreparations were made some time ago, graft- 
ing fruit trees may not be successful. It is usual to cut 
back the branches of the trees in February and to 
prepare the scions early in the year. The latter are 
chosen from firm shoots of the previous year's growth, 
and are put on a border facing north until wanted for 
grafting late in March, two-thirds of each shoot being 
beneath the soil. Then the conditions commonly ac- 
knowledged to be essential to successful grafting are 
secured — a stock in which the sap is moving freely and 
scions that are dormant. Yet so full of surprises is 
gardening that those who, wishing to graft, have not 
observed these preliminary precautions need not be 

179 



Round the Year in the Garden 

deterred from making an attempt to renovate their fruit 
trees. 

As hardy fruit trees against walls out of doors com- 
mence to blossom it is wise to take measures to larotect 
them from frost. This is most conveniently done by means 
of canvas or tiffany blinds attached to the top of the wall 
and capable of being rolled down as occasion requires. In 
the absence of these, ordinary fish netting, double thick- 
ness, may be used. 

There is much work to be done among fruit trees 
under glass, for at this season they make rapid growth. 
If, as advised, the side shoots of the Vine were pruned 
to within two biids of the base, probably both buds have 
started into growth. One of them must be rubbed off. 
When the shoots are about 1 inch or so long, it is possible 
to see which contains an embryo bunch of grapes, and 
this, of course, should be allowed to remain. If both 
contain a tiny bunch, the weaker of the two is rubbed 
off. Considerable care is required in ventilating the 
vinery at this season, because bright sunshine and cold 
winds often occur at the same time. A little air should 
be admitted early in the day to prevent the temperature 
rising too high, and the ventilators may be opened wider 
as the day progresses, providing the sunshine continues. 
If the vinery is allowed to get very warm, and air is 
admitted freely with the object of lowering the tem- 
perature, harm is bound to follow. It does not matter 
very much whether the night temperature is 40"^ or 50" ; 
what is of chief concern is to keep as regular a tempera- 
ture as possible. If the vinery is heated, a night 
temperature of about 50° can be maintained with very 
little artificial heat at this period, while if the greenhouse 
is unheated it may fall to 45^' or even 40°. The Vine 
is hardy, and cold will not damage it, though wide fluctii- 
ations of temperature are undoubtedly harmful. It is a 
good plan to admit a little air when the thermometer 
registers 10° higher than the night temperature, and if 

i8o 



March — Sowing and Planting 

the weather is warm and sunny, to increase the amount 
of air during the morning. In the afternoon, early or 
late according to the weather, the glasshouse should be 
closed with the object of increasing the temperature 
by natural warmth. When cold winds prevail, air should 
be admitted with greater caution and always if possible 
on the leeward side. 

As the side shoots of the Vine increase in length, 
it becomes necessary to attach them to the trellis ; this 
needs to be done with great care or they may break 
off at the base. In the first place, a piece of raffia is 
passed over the upper end of the shoot (which is pulled 
down slightly) and tied loosely to the trellis. In a day 
or two the shoot may be pulled down still farther and 
made seciire. 

Disbudding Peach Trees.— The chief work in con- 
nection with Peach trees is that of disbudding, of which 
an understanding is essential to correct cultivation. The 
fruits of the current summer will be produced upon the 
shoots that grew last year, and, similarly, the fresh 
growths now developing will bear next year's crop. 
These are so numerous that it is obvious they must be 
thinned or disbudded. When disbudding is completed 
there should remain two or three fresh shoots only 
on each of last year's growths ; one of them must be 
at the top, another at the base, while, if there is room, 
another may be left at the middle. Thus it is of impor- 
tance, before disbudding is begun, to select the three 
shoots that are to remain finally. All superfluous growths 
must not be removed at once ; the work ought to be 
completed in about three weeks, and be carried out on 
three occasions. In this way the growth of the tree 
is not checked. As the remaining shoots increase in 
length they are attached to the trellis. While the trees 
are in bloom air ought to be admitted to the Peach trees 
as freely as the weather will allow, and it is wise to draw 
a soft brush gently over the flowers to disperse the pollen. 

i8i 



Round the Year in the Garden 

Melon, Cucumber and Vegetable Marrow. — Seeds 
may now be sown in the greenhouse or ujion a hotbed 
in a frame. They are placed singly in small pots. 
Melons may be grown either in large pots or in mounds 
of soil made up on a hotbed ; the former method offers 
the least trouble to amateurs. They need good turf 
loam, and potting must be firm. When the plant is 
about 10 inches high the point is pinched out to cause 
side shoots to develop, and these in their turn will again 
be " stopped " for the production of further growths 
upon which male and female flowers will form. To 
obtain a crop of fruit it is necessary to take a male 
flower, remove the petals, and place it upon the stigma 
of the female flower. As many female flowers as possible 
should be pollenised at the same time, for the fruits 
that set first usually develop at the expense of those 
that set later ; the result is that one or two large fruits 
and several other smaller ones are obtained, instead of 
fruits of uniform size. While the plants are in bloom 
air ought to be admitted freely ; when the fruits are 
seen to be increasing in size a warmer temperature may 
be maintained. 

The best compost for Cucumbers consists of loam and 
leaf -mould in about equal quantities. They need somewhat 
similar treatment to Melons, so far as stopping is con- 
cerned, the object being to get the trellis full of growths 
which will produce blossom and, in due course, fruits. 

Strawberries in pots should be given air freely while 
they are in bloom so that the "set" of fruits may be 
satisfactory. The pots are full of roots, and watering 
must be attended to with care ; if the soil is allowed to 
get dry the fruits are not likely to form freely. 

In the Kitchen Garden 

The amateur who has no glasshouse or frame must re- 
gard this as the chief month for making preparations for 

182 




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March — Sowing and Planting 

a supply of main crop vegetables. If the land was dug 
and manured during autumn and winter, as the plots be- 
came vacant, it will crumble to a fine tilth as the month 
progresses, and sowing may be carried out with conveni- 
ence. It is, however, unwise to sow seeds in sodden and 
lumpy ground. It is better to wait until it has dried 
somewhat ; no time will really be lost, for seeds will not 
vegetate in cold, wet soil. If the land has been thrown 
up roughly, or in the form of ridges for the winter, it 
ought now to be levelled and as fine a surface as possible 
obtained. 

Spring Cabbage. — This is greatly appreciated, and a 
little attention given now is followed by good results. 
Weeds ought to be destroyed, and if the ground is fairly 
dry the soil between the rows should be hoed. A slight 
scattering of nitrate of soda may be sprinkled among the 
plants and hoed beneath the soil. 

Seakale, the roots of which were selected in autumn 
and have since been stored in soil in a cool, frost-proof 
place, may be planted now on deeply cultivated ground. 
They are put about 18 inches apart, the tops just beneath 
the surface, all shoots except the strongest first being re- 
moved. It is wise to sprinkle soot and lime around them 
to keep off slugs. 

Early Potatoes may be planted on a warm border, the 
tubers about 12 inches apart in rows from 15-18 inches 
from each other. On heavy ground it is best to put light, 
leafy soil immediately beneath the tubers, which ought 
to have been sprouted in boxes as already explained. Re- 
move all except two of the sprouts. May Queen and Mid- 
lothian Early are suitable varieties. 

If it is intended to grow Celery it is as well to prepare 
the trenches ; they ought to be about 12 inches deep? 
I'otted manure being dug in, for Celery needs rich and 
retentive soil. If each trench is 2 feet wide it will accom- 
modate two rows of plants. On the ridges between the 
trenches — these ought to be 4 or 5 feet apart — it is 

183 



Round the Year in the Garden 

possible to grow various vegetables, such, for example, as 
Lettuce, dwarf early Peas, Radish, Spinach, etc., all of 
which will be ready to gather before it becomes necessary 
to earth up the Celery. If the finest Leeks are wanted, 
trenches should be prepared for them in the same way, 
though for general purposes this is not necessary. Those 
who wish to have Brussels Sprouts in autumn should 
sow seeds now in the greenhouse or frame. Dwarf Gem 
is a good early variety. 

Egg Plant, or Aubergine. — This is comparatively 
rarely grown by amateurs, yet those who care for the 
fruits ought certainly to sow a few seeds, for the plants 
are as easily cultivated as Tomatoes. The seeds are sown 
in a box of light soil in the greenhouse ; when the seedlings 
are large enough to handle conveniently they are potted 
singly in small pots, and subsequently repotted into 
those 6 inches or 7 inches wide, in which they will bear 
fruits. It is preferable to grow them altogether in the 
greenhouse, though they also succeed out of doors in a 
favourable summer. 

Seeds of Tomatoes ought now^ to be sown ; they ger- 
minate readily in . pots or boxes filled with light soil and 
placed in the greenhouse. The seedlings are potted singly 
in small pots, subsequently into those 5 inches wide, and 
finally, late in May or early June, are placed in larger pots, 
in which they will fruit. Pots 9 or 10 inches wide are 
commonly vised. Both Tomato and Egg plant must be 
given perfectly cool treatment throughout the summer. 
It is necessary to use good turfy loam, with which a little 
leaf soil and rotted manure are mixed, and potting must 
be firm. Careful watering is required until the pots are 
full of roots. Of the numerous varieties of Tomatoes one 
might well choose for growing under glass Frogmore 
Selected, Moneymaker, Sunrise or Ideal. 

An early crop of Vegetable MaiTOws is obtained by 
sowing seeds now under glass, repotting the seedlings as 
becomes necessary, and finally in pots 10 inches wide ; or 

184 



March — Sowing and Planting 

in April they may be planted in soil on a hotbed in a 
frame. If the plants are grown in pots it is not necessary 
to pinch out the point of the stem, though this should be 
done to encourage the growth of side shoots if the Mar- 
rows are planted in a frame. Moore's Cream is an 
excellent variety. 

Potato Planting ought, if possible, to be completed by 
the end of the month, though on wet and heavy ground 
it is advisable to wait until early April. Potatoes that 
will be ready for digging in late June or July are Sharpe's 
Express, Harbinger and Midlothian Early, while others 
that will be available in August are Snowdrop, British 
Queen, Satisfaction and Windsor Castle. Those who wish 
to have later sorts may choose from The Factor, The 
Chapman and The Langworthy. The best way of planting 
when small quantities are grown is to draw drills 6 inches 
deep. When large areas are planted the work is done by 
means of a dibber. The rows of early sorts ought to be 
about 15 inches apart, of mid-season varieties 20 inches, 
and of late sorts about 30 inches from each other. The 
tubers of early Potatoes are put about 12 inches, and later 
sorts about 15 inches apart. 

Sowing Peas. — Peas should be sown in quantity this 
month. It is possible, by choosing different varieties, and 
by making successive sowings, to have green Peas through- 
out a long season. Nothing is gained by sowing before the 
ground is fairly dry. Drills 2 inches deep are drawn, and 
the seeds are sown thinly in these. The distance to be 
allowed between the rows depends upon the height of 
the varieties ; if, for example, the Peas grow 4 feet high 
the rows ought to be not less than 5 feet apart. Among 
early Peas The Pilot and Gradus are excellent tall vari- 
eties, while William Hurst and Little Marvel are good 
dwarf sorts. To yield a succession choose The Daisy, of 
low growth, and from Duke of York and Eureka among 
taller sorts. For the main crop one cannot do better than 
grow Glory of Devon, Telephone and Stratagem. Of late 

185 



Round the Year in the Garden 

Peas probably the best is Gladstone or Autocrat. By- 
sowing at intervals from late March until May a con- 
tinuous supply of Peas is obtained if such varieties are 
sown as those named above. 

Seeds of Celery are sown in boxes of light soil in a 
greenhouse, the seedlings being planted in a bed of soil in 
a frame, preparatory to being put oiit of doors in trenches. 
Aldenham Pink and Solid White are good varieties. Late 
in the month the main crop of Carrots may be sown. 
For this and other root crops ground should be chosen 
that has not been manured recently. On deep soil may 
be grown the long-rooted kinds, choosing the variety St. 
Valery ; on light soil the Stump-rooted Carrots are best, 
and of these a reliable variety is Early Gem. 

Sowing Onions. — Seed of main crop Onions is sown 
about the middle of the month. The ground needs care- 
ful preparation beforehand. It ought to have been deeply 
dug and manured, and must be made firm by treading- 
Drills about 1 inch deep and 12 inches apart are drawn, 
and in these soot is sprinkled freely, while wood ashes 
may also be mixed in with advantage. The seedlings 
must be thinned so that they are from 4 to 6 inches apart 
finally. The Onion fly often plays sad havoc with Onions 
sown out of doors. Its attacks may be lessened by sowing 
in thoroughly firm ground, and by the use of soot. A 
good selection of Ailsa Craig should be chosen, or Premier 
is an excellent sort. Instead of growing Onions from 
seed, sets, which are really like miniature Onions, may be 
planted in the same way as Shallots. They are pressed 
in the ground firmly, but are not covered. 

Seeds of Leek may now be sown out of doors on a 
sheltered border of which the surface has been made fine. 
Broad Beans that were raised under glass should be 
planted out towards the end of the month. A fresh lot 
may be sown; the seeds are placed 4 inches apart in 
doiible lines, the sets of rows being about 20 inches from 
each other. More seeds of Cauliflower should be sown 

1 86 




A LITTLE GARDEN POOL MADE WAll.klU.H 




WOODLAND AND WATER- JAPANESE IRIS IN THE FOREGROUND 



March — Sowing and Planting 

under glass if a succession is required. Those from seed 
sown in autumn need hardening off before being planted 
out of doors next mouth. Autumn-sown Onions need 
transplanting now ; they are pvit 5 or 6 inches apart in 
rows 12 inches from each other. Perpetual Spinach, or 
Spinach Beet, is a useful vegetable to sow now out of 
doors. 



187 



APRIL 

, Making Ready for Summer 

DURING the autumn and early winter months there 
often comes the temptation to defer gardening 
work, especially that of planting, until spring. It 
may be carried out far more pleasantly under present 
conditions, but what of the result? Gardening is no 
doubt, to some considerable extent, an inexact science, 
for different methods, varying according to local cir- 
cumstances and conditions, produce equally good 
results. Moreover, plants are always ready to make 
a good fight for life, and if matters are not altogether 
against them they generally succeed. With the advent 
of April comes the parting of the ways ; either one 
must comj)lete the planting of hardy border plants at 
once or for a whole summer be faced with the dire 
effects of procrastination. If April prove a dry month, 
plants put in late have little chance, for they are 
forced to produce puny leaves and stunted stems 
before the roots have established themselves. Let 
planting, then, be completed. It is more essential than 
ever at this season to disturb a considerable area of 
ground before putting in a plant, so that its roots may 
be able to spread in search of food supplies as quickly 
as possible. To dig a small hole and to cramp the roots 
in this is certain to be followed by disappointing 
results. Plants that may legitimately be put out in 
April are Michaelmas Daisies and other autumn kinds — 
Chrysanthemums, Pentstemons, Lily bulbs. Evergreens 
of all sorts, and Roses from pots ; only a qualified 
success can be expected from early summer kinds that 

i88 



April — Making Ready for Summer 

are planted now. Some plants greatly dislike being 
disturbed, and show their resentment by refusing to flower 
for a year or two ; Irises, Paeonies, Oriental Poppies, 
Japanese Anemones, climbing Roses and Christmas Roses 
are some of those especially liable to take offence. 

Among the Hardy Flowers 

Increasing the Violet. — April is the month in which 
to prepare for another Violet season. The method of 
propagation most commonly practised is by division of 
the old clumps ; only " crowns " or young pieces that 
are well rooted should be chosen for replanting, the old 
portions that have become hard being discarded ; the 
former are set out at about 10 inches apart on a prepared 
bed of soil. Violets have an especial liking for leaf soil, 
and this should be dug in freely, together with decayed 
manure, if the land is light. There are many opinions 
as to the best position for a bed of Violets, but every- 
one agrees that too much warmth, as provided, for instance, 
by a border at the foot of a wall facing south, is detri- 
mental. They are often grown in the open garden, but 
more frequently on a partially-shaded border facing Avest. 
During the summer months the chief details of manage- 
ment are to remove all runners, to hoe frequently between 
the plants, to supply water as becomes necessary, and, 
last, but most important of all, to syringe the Violets 
freely and frequently during hot weather to prevent 
attacks by that injurious little insect, the red spider. 
If unfortunately this pest appears, a remedy that has 
proved reliable is to syringe the leaves, and particularly 
the lower surface, w^ith salt water, a tablespoonful of 
salt dissolved in a gallon of water. 

As to varieties they are numerous in both double 
and single flowers. Favourites among the larger blossomed 
single kinds are Princess of Wales, La France and Cali- 
fornia, and among the smaller ones Amiral Avellan, of 
reddish shade ; Rose Perle, rose with white centre ; and 

189 



Round the Year in the Garden 

Sulplmrea, of pale yellow colouring. Of the doubles 
the best are Marie Louise, Lady Hume Campbell, Comte 
de Brazza, aud Neapolitan. 

Flowering Shrubs of Spring. — During the past ten 
days the pageant of flowers has made great progress ; 
trees, shrubs and alpines now combine to render the 
well-stocked garden a place of untold delight. Happy is 
the garden in which spring-flowering shrubs are well 
represented. The graceful shoots of Berberis stenophylla 
are wreathed in golden blossom, and the sturdier stems 
of Berberis Darwini are not less freely covered with 
their orange-coloured blooms, while the old Mahonia, too, 
is quite gay with its bunches of pale yellow flowers. The 
deciduous Magnolias (conspicua, soulangeana, and obo- 
vata) are gi^^nt bushes laden with wonderful flower cups, 
white or stained with rose red. The Tree Heaths, Erica 
Veitchii and arborea, where thickly planted, form a 
miniature forest of dainty leaf and abundant white 
blossom, and groups of the red Mediterranean Heath 
show finely when massed near by. The ornamental 
Cherries, the Crabs, the Plums and Peaches — all are 
smothered in blossom, and as seen at the height of their 
exquisite display, it seems as though one could not plant 
them too freely. 

Most alluring of all garden trees is, I think, the 
double-flowered Peach ; its blossoms are a most fascinat- 
ing shade of deep rose, and their glowing colour among 
the greens of other trees attracts attention from afar. 
The Siberian Crab (Pyrus baccata) is as lavish as any 
in its display of bloom, and a grown tree is a most 
attractive sight. The Japanese Cherry (Prunus pseudo- 
cerasus) and its variety J. H. Veitch are two splendid 
small trees, now laden with bunches of big pink bloom. 
Pyrus floribunda blossoms with remarkable freedom ; the 
rounded trees are laden with their dainty pink flowers. 

Those gardens in which spring-flowering trees and 
shrubs are not freely grouped miss some of the most 

igo 



■vi.-a.;. ■f...;^/.-.?ft-.r.. 




April — Making Ready for Summer 

enjoyable moments of the garden year, for no other season 
compares in the fullness of its delight with that of April 
and early May. All, even the most plebeian of trees, 
are lovely now ; each is characteristic in the way in 
which it dons its coat of green. Some garb hurriedly, as 
though fearful of what spring has in store, others 
leisurely, as though trustful of the quick coming of 
summer, and content to be awakened gently to full 
fresh life. In this expression of their varying mood 
they add immensely to the fascination of the garden in 
spring. Here show the pale green of the Japanese 
Maple and the ruddy tone of its red-leaved variety, 
san guinea ; there the dainty tracery of the Silver Birch, 
the sombre green of the Pine, and the full leafiness of the 
Horse-Chestnut ; between them all the blushing blooms 
of the garden shrubs and the glow of the golden Gorse. 

The Mountain Clematis. — Clematis montana is 
perhaps the most beautiful of all the members of this 
group of plants ; it is certainly not excelled for profusion 
of bloom, and after the first season may be relied upon 
to make rapid growth. How often at this season of 
" tidying up the garden " does one see the shoots of this 
lovely climber trimmed and cut back for the sake of a 
neat appearance, yet the whole charm of the plant is 
lost unless the slender stems are allowed to depend and 
drape their support in a natural manner. Moreover, to 
cut them back now is to ruin the prospect of a successful 
show of bloom, for the flowers are produced from the old 
wood, and the proper time to prune, if pruning is 
necessary (though very little is needed as a rule), is as 
soon as the blossom is over. An attractive variety of 
this Clematis is called rubens, the flowers, instead of 
being white as in the type, being tinged with red. 
Ordinary well-drained loamy soil, with which lime 
rubble is mixed, suits the Clematis. 

Rock Garden Flowers. — There are no more delightful 
plants at present in bloom in the rock garden than the 

191 



Round the Year in the Garden 

Mossy Saxifrages. They form wide, spreading tufts of 
exquisite green moss-like leafage in well-drained soil and 
a fairly cool spot, and at this time of year are spangled 
with their dainty blossoms in many shades of colour. 
One of my happiest colour schemes at the moment 
consists of the white mossy Saxifraga Wallacei and the 
crimson one called bathoniensis. This is, I think, the 
finest of all the red kinds. The flowers on first opening 
are really vivid crimson, though they become lighter in 
colour after a few days. Saxifraga Wallacei blooms most 
profusely, but it has not the close, tufted growth of some 
of the other kinds. Another Mossy Saxifrage that be- 
comes quite smothered in white blossom is called exarata. 
Probably the neatest of all, for it covers the ground like 
a cushion of moss, is the variety Kingii ; it does not, 
however, bloom very freely, but its attractive appearance 
throughout the winter is ample compensation. One of 
the daintiest of all is muscoides atropurpurea ; this 
makes a close moss-like tuft and bears a profusion of 
brilliant red flowers. 

I suppose every rock garden possesses that beautiful 
little Grecian Pansy, Viola gracilis, of which the intense 
purple blooms are now fully out, and will help to keep 
the rockery gay for weeks. It blooms freely and con- 
tinuously for a long time and is quite easy to grow. 
Would that someone could tell us how to make that 
incomparable Gentian (Gentiana acaulis) blossom. I have 
several plants of it that grow well enough, but do not 
bloom. At Kew they have no success with it; yet at 
Madresfield Court one sees it as a wide edging to walks 
and drives, as free and contented as the double white 
Arabis. But we shall never solve the likes and dislikes of 
all the plants we grow ; even the common Arabis, judging 
from my own experience and that of many corre- 
spondents, sometimes has the sulks and shows scarcely 
a flower. Yet at other times it is as gay as we expect 
it to be, and who knows the reason why? This is a 

192 



April — Making Ready for Summer 

plant that thrives the better the more drastically you 
treat it, so when the blossoms are past cut it hard back ; 
it will soon grow freely enough again, and probably 
bloom all the better next year. 

A Little Bog Garden that was made at the foot of 
a fence facing north a year or two ago gets more gay 
every day. The showy little Primulas frondosa and 
rosea and the taller cortusoides are in brilliant bloom ; 
Primula japonica is lusty of leaf and getting ready to 
send up stout flower stems, and hardy Cypripediums are 
peeping through the moist peat. I cannot imagine a 
more satisfactory way of dealing with a cool and shady 
spot than by making a little bog garden of it. 

The Flame Flower. — The Flame Flower (Tropaeolum 
speciosum) is perhaps the most brilliant of all hardy 
climbing plants, but it is unfortunately one of the most 
difficult to grow in Southern gardens. In colder Northern 
counties one sees it draping cottage garden walls with 
its exquisite greenery and wonderful scarlet blossoms, 
apparently without any care on the part of the gardener. 
The finest specimen I have seen in the Southern counties 
was in a garden at Bath; it was planted on the north 
side of a tall yew hedge and had clambered through the 
latter to a height of many feet. The chief essentials to 
success appear to be coolness and a leafy soil. It is such 
an attractive plant that no trouble seems too great if 
one can induce it to thrive. Other flowers that one 
never remembers to have seen so fine in the South as in 
the cooler and moister conditions of Northern gardens 
are Phlox, Pentstemon, Viola and Sweet Pea. The 
mention of Phlox reminds one that it is not a difficult 
matter to increase the stock of this fine late -summer 
flower by making cuttings of the young growths when 
they are 4 or 5 inches long. If these are taken off and 
inserted in pots of sandy soil, kept in a closed and shady 
frame for a few weeks, they will form roots quickly. 

Concerning Hedges. — When a hedge is successful it 
N 193 



Round the Year in the Garden 

is, like a lawu, very satisfying ; similarly, when it be 
comes patchy it is an eyesore. The most popular hedge 
plants are evergreens, and they are generally more 
difficult to manage than deciduous shrubs ; especially is 
this the case with Conifers. The most suitable months 
for planting the choicer evergreens are April and Sep- 
tember. When evergreen hedges have become bare at 
the base or thin they should be cut back hard at the 
present time ; with a season's growth before them there 
will be every chance of their making a good recovery. 
This advice refers to such as Holly, Yew, Laurel, Thuya, 
Cupressus, etc. It is a mistake to cut these hard in 
winter, as one often sees done, for the hedge remains 
bare and unsightly for months ; moreover, some of the 
stems may die ; but in April fresh growth commences at 
once. For a boundary hedge that will serve also as a 
fence there is probably nothing better than a mixture of 
Whitethorn and Beech : the plants should be cut down 
to 9 or 10 inches after planting, so that a good base may 
be formed. 

Clipping Hedges. — There is no hedge to excel that 
of Holly, though it develops slowly. Nevertheless, if 
plants about 2 feet high are firmly planted now in good 
loamy soil and kept moist at the root they soon begin to 
make headway. It is important to prepare the ground 
by digging 2 or 3 feet deep and mixing in rotted manure 
not nearer the surface than 18 inches. The plants 
should be set about 15 inches apart. An established 
Holly hedge does not as a rule give much trouble, but if 
there are gaps now is the time to fill them and cut back 
the stems of such plants as are not satisfactory. Holly 
hedges may be clipped now if they seem to need it, 
though if clipping was carried out in late summer 
probably no further attention in this respect will 
be necessary. 

Thuya gigantea is a good hedge plant; so, too, is 
Cupressus Lawsoniana. The leading shoots of these 

194 



April — Making Ready for Summer 

shrubs need to be cut back each spring, otherwise the 
hedge is liable to get bare at the base, while ordinary- 
clipping should be done now and again in August. The 
hedge then remains neat throughout the year. Cupressus 
macrocarpa and its variety lutea make fine hedges, 
especially in seaside gardens in mild districts. Yew is, 
of course, very slow, but it makes an ideal hedge, and 
none other looks so well. 

Hedges of quick-growing deciduous shrubs, such as 
Privet and Thorn, may be clipped during summer as 
often as seems necessary ; a final cutting in August will 
keep them neat until spring. Beech and Hornbeam are 
not likely to need clipping more than twice during the 
season. During the first few years they must be allowed 
to increase in height slowly, otherwise the base will get 
bare, and the top should be cut more closely than the 
base. Berberis steuophylla and Darwini make charming 
flowering hedges. It is important to attend to their 
pruning as soon as the flower display is over, but they 
do not need close clipping; old growths should be cut 
out, and others that destroy the symmetry of the hedge 
may be shortened. The Laurel is an especially useful 
shrub for massing by the side of a shady drive, where 
there is little likelihood of success with choicer things. 
If it is outgrowing the space allotted to it the present 
is the time to prune it within bounds. It is a mistake to 
use shears for the purpose, for the result is certain to 
be unsightly. It is far better to take a knife and cut 
out offending branches than to clip them as one would a 
hedge. 

Transplanting Evergreens.— The planting and trans- 
planting of deciduous trees and shrubs ought to be 
completed long before the middle of April, but this is 
the season to undertake similar work with evergreens, 
and especially Conifers. Such accommodating sorts as 
Laurel, Rhododendron and Berberis may be moved in 
autumn or even during winter in mild weather, but such 

195 



Round the Year in the Garden 

as Holly, Yew, Cupressus, Thuya and others need greater 
care, and either April or September is the best month 
in which to undertake their removal or to make a fresh 
plantation. I was asked the other day what was the 
matter with a hedge of Thuya that was planted last 
year ; the plants showed no signs of making fresh growth, 
and the leaves at the ends of the branches were turning 
brown and the leading shoots were withering. It was 
really little wonder, for the shrubs were put in the 
ground in November, and they were then big plants* 
some 5 feet high. Of choice evergreens small plants in- 
variably thrive better than big ones ; those 2 to 3 feet 
high are most suitable for transplanting. Presuming the 
ground to have been deeply dug, the lower soil enriched 
with manure, and the shrubs made quite firm, subsequent 
care should be directed towards keeping both the roots 
and the top growth moist. If, as often happens at this 
season, the weather is hot and dry for a few weeks, the 
shrubs are apt to fail unless syringed twice daily and 
watered occasionally. A covering of manure on the soil 
above the roots tends to keep the latter moist. Should 
drying winds prevail, syringing becomes of even greater 
importance, and it is often worth while to erect a 
rough canvas screen for their protection until fresh 
growth gives evidence of the trees having become 
established. 

Watering in Spring. — There will be many failures 
in the garden during the summer unless the question 
of watering receives attention now. Trees and plants 
against walls and fences and in narrow borders at 
the foot of them are almost certainly very dry at the 
roots, and they can scarcely receive too much water at 
the present time. Vigorous Roses and fruit trees especi- 
ally should be looked to, or buds and small fruits may 
fall off in alarming numbers. Rockery plants, and par- 
ticularly those growing in moraines, need an abundance 
of water at this their chief season of growth. It is, of 

196 



April — Making Ready for Summer 

course, preferable to use soft water from tanks or tubs 
or alternatively hard water that has been exposed to 
the air for a few days ; but beneficial though soft water 
may be its use is only practicable in quite small gardens, 
and recourse must be had to the hose. Growth is rapid 
at this time of year, and a check such as is occasioned 
by drought may make all the difference between success 
and failure. It is yet too early to apply quick-acting 
fertilisers ; the best time to do this is as soon as flower 
buds or small fruits have formed. 

Disbudding is an important item of garden work 
Superfluous shoots on Roses, i.e. those that are very 
weak, ill-placed, or too numerous, should be rubbed off ; 
the stems of herbaceous plants, such as Delphinium, 
Phlox, etc., ought to be thinned out, leaving only a dozen, 
more or less, on each clump. 

The First Rose Pests. — No sooner have we put the 
Rose garden in order, and prepared for quiet moments 
in which to indulge in anticipation of the delightful time 
that is coming, than we are called upon to take reprisals 
against the first of a whole army of pests that are 
waiting an opportunity of bringing to naught our most 
cherished hopes. Already those wretched grubs of the 
winter moth have begun to ruin the leaves of the most 
precocious shoots and to eat out the heart of tiny buds. 
Many may be killed by hand, though it is necessary to 
look over the bushes each day ; this is rather a tedious 
method, yet it is probably the most efficacious of all, 
for one makes sure that those found will do no further 
damage. An alternative is to spray with some poisonous 
compound, and so poison the food of the grubs. Arsenate 
of lead is the best substance to employ, and it may be 
conveniently obtained in paste form. Otherwise the 
mixture, as recommended by the National Rose Society, 
may be used : Arsenate of soda, 1 oz., acetate of lead, 2f 
oz., water, 10 gallons. The two substances are first dis- 
solved in a small quantity of water, the full amount being 

197 



Round the Year in the Garden 

added subsequently. The solution should be syringed 
on the plants as a fine spray. 

Garden Walks. — An unsatisfactory walk detracts 
considerably from the pleasure of the garden, whether? 
owing to the fact that it is badly drained, pools of water 
lie in the hollows, or, owing to a neglected surface, the 
gravel has become covered with weeds or moss. The 
season has passed for remaking the walk and ensuring 
thorough drainage, yet much may be done to render the 
surface attractive during summer. Simplest of all ex- 
pedients is to fork it over lightly to the depth of an 
inch or two, picking out all weeds as the work proceeds, 
and finally to roll until it is again firm. Although so 
simple, the adoption of this method improves the appear- 
ance of the walk, providing there is a fair depth of 
gravel. The gravel is cleaner and brighter and is readily 
rolled to a firm surface. If such a proceeding is not 
practicable the use of salt or weed-killer is recommended 
for cleansing weedy walks ; they should be applied in 
dry weather. 

Home-made Weed-killer.— The following is a recipe 
for a home-made weed-killer. Place | lb. of white arsenic 
and a similar amount of caustic soda in 1 gallon of water 
and boil until the liquid is clear. Then pour the 
poisonous solution into bottles and cork them tightly. 
For use pour a small cupful in a gallon of water. In 
applying this and other weed-killers care is necessary 
to ensure that they do not touch grass verges or plant 
edgings. 

There is probably no path so delightful and so useful 
as one formed of flags or paving-stones, especially when 
crevices are left here and there among the stones in 
which to insert low-growing plants, preferably those 
having fragrant leaves such as the Thymes and Mints. 
To ensure the success of these the soil should be forked up 
lightly — leaf soil and sand being mixed in — and again 
made firm. It is a good plan to lay the stones on a layer 

198 



April — Making Ready for Summer 

of sand, so that a level surface may be obtained and 
for the sake of the plants also. 

Planting Sweet Peas. — Seedlings raised under glass 
early in spring ought now to be planted out of doors, 
either in clumps or rows, as the fancy of the gardener 
may dictate. Clumps perhaps look best and are most 
convenient because one can find room for them more 
easily than for a row. The plants should not be closer 
together than 5 or 6 inches ; many who give them special 
cultivation put them 12 inches apart. It is wise to place 
small twiggy sticks round about the seedlings as soon 
as they are planted, not only as a means of support, but 
as a measure of protection against cold winds and birds. 
Sweet Peas thrive only on deeply dug and manured 
ground, but it is a mistake to manure the land excessively 
when they are grown for garden decoration only. The 
finest flowers are obtained by restricting the groAvth 
of the plants to one or two stems, and by removing 
all side shoots as they appear, but the average flower 
lover is content to let them grow as they will. A prolonged 
display can be expected only if the flowers are gathered 
regularly to prevent the formation of seed pods. 

Half-hardy Annuals in great variety may be sown 
out of doors as soon as the soil is dry enough to bring 
to a fine tilth with fork and rake. The pruning of Tea 
Roses ought to be carried out, all dead and useless shoots 
first being removed and the remaining ones shortened 
by about half, unless, as is not unlikely, they have 
died back to that extent. The frequent use of the 
hoe will do much good by aerating and loosening the 
surface soil and so helping to promote a healthy 
growth. Hardy flowers of many kinds may be raised 
from seed sown in boxes in a frame or even out of 
doors if the ground is sufficiently dry to be brought 
to a fine tilth. 

Items of Garden Work. — If seeds of Border Carna- 
tions are sown now they will produce giant clumps for 

199 



Round the Year in the Garden 

next year's blossoming; sow in pots or boxes of sifted 
sandy soil, placed in a greenhouse or cold frame. Pinks, 
too, in great variety may be similarly raised from seed. 
Gladioli, some- Lilies and Montbretias may still be ijut 
in the outdoor borders ; so, too, may Hyacinthus can- 
dicans, the Cape Hyacinth ; they will be most welcome 
in late summer. Seeds of Zinnia, Stocks and Asters, 
Kochia, Phlox Drummondi, and other half-hardy annuals 
ought to be sown in a frame. 

The lawn should be mown and well rolled, grass 
seed being sown in bare places, or fresh turf laid down. 
Some rock garden plants are often in need of a top- 
dressing of gritty soil at this season, owing to the 
heavy rains of winter having washed the earth away 
from them. 

In the Greenhouse 

Bulbs and Spring Plants after Flowering. — A 

common practice in dealing with bulbs after they have 
flowered is to neglect them, to allow them to become 
dry at the roots, thus hastening the decay of the 
leaves, and incidentally depriving the bulbs of nourish- 
ment just when they most need it. When the flowers 
of Freesia and Lachenalia are over the soil should be 
kept moist until the leaves begin to turn yellow ; more- 
over, they should be watered occasionally with liquid 
manure made from yard manure or one of the many 
patent fertilisers to be obtained. Such treatment is of 
the greatest assistance in building up good bulbs for 
next year's flowering. Cyclamen will soon be going 
out of bloom, so too will Chinese Primulas ; it is the 
custom with many gardeners to discard the old roots 
of both these plants after the first blossoming, but 
this is a great mistake if an abundance of bloom 
I'ather than size and quality is the chief desideratum. 
Especially is this true of Cyclamen ; one may preserve 
the corms (as the roots are technically termed) for 

200 



April — Making Ready for Summer 

years with practically no trouble, and each season 
they yield a profusion of blossom. Chinese Primroses 
may be repotted in larger flower-pots after they have 
bloomed, and if grown in a cool frame throughout the 
summer months, all flower stems being picked off, they 
will produce a splendid display next year. The bulbs 
of Daffodils that have been forced should not be 
thrown away; if kept moist at the roots and placed 
in a cold frame for a few weeks they may be planted 
out of doors wherever room can be found for them. 
They will increase and blossom freely in future years. 
So too will Scillas, Crocuses, Snowdrops and Grape 
Hyacinths. 

Cuttings should be taken of winter-flowering plants 
for the greenhouse, e.g. Begonias Gloire de Lorraine 
and Gloire de Sceaux, Poinsettia, Coleus thyrsoideus, 
Eranthemum and Geranium. 

A troublesome pest that will soon be making its 
appearance is the grub of the leaf -mining maggot, that 
renders the leaves of Chrysanthemum, Marguerite and 
Cineraria so unsightly and in fact ruins them. The use 
of a f umigant called Autoshreds will get rid of the pest 
on plants under glass. Chrysanthemums that are out 
of doors should be sprayed frequently with tar water 
during the next few weeks in the hope that the eggs that 
give rise to the grubs will not be laid on the leaves. 

Auricula. — As soon as the offsets or side growths on 
the older plants are of fair size they should be taken off 
and repotted, either singly in small pots, or several 
round the edge of a larger pot. They ought to be kept 
in a cool frame, little air being given for a week or two. 
Auriculas generally should be repotted as soon as the 
flowers have faded, if repotting is necessary ; it is, how- 
ever, a mistake to use large pots, those 4 inches wide are 
usually large enough. If all, or most, of the old soil is 
shaken off the roots, the necessity for using large pots is 
obviated. The compost needs to be prepared with care, 

20I 



Round the Year in the Garden 

and the following ingredients are recommended : turf 
loam to form the bulk, leaf mould and sand each being 
added in the proportion of one to four of loam. Pieces of 
broken charcoal, too, should be mixed with the compost. 
Very careful watering is required for a time, and the 
frame must be kept closed during the greater part of the 
day for a week or two. During summer Auriculas thrive 
best in a frame facing north and in winter in a frame or 
greenhouse facing south. They require to be kept per- 
fectly cool throughout the year and during winter need 
little water at the roots. 

In the Fruit Garden 

The Godlin Moth. — Much may now be done to eradi- 
cate the caterpillars of the Codlin Moth by syringing the 
Apple trees with arsenate of lead solution. It must be 
so directed as to fall in a fine spray on the tops or 
" eyes " of the embryo fruits as soon as the petals have 
dropped ; it is chiefly there that the grubs hatch out and 
then commence to eat their way through the fruit. 

The Black Currant Mite is one of the most des- 
tructive pests of fruit bushes, and its presence is easily 
detected by the presence of swollen buds, which are 
rendered worthless by the mite inside them. The mites 
are so small as to be invisible to the naked eye. At 
this season they commence to migrate, and can now 
be attacked most usefully. The most likely remedy 
is slaked lime and sulphvir sprinkled on the bushes, or 
it may be used in the form of a liquid spray. This 
treatment should be continued at intervals of ten days 
throughout April and May. Further, it is necessary to 
cut off at pruning time shoots that are badly affected 
and burn them. 

Peach trees out of doors will need attention in the 
matter of disbudding ; the process is exactly the same 
as has already been explained in connection with Peach 
trees under glass. A disease that may soon be expected 

202 




A GROUP OF 'HARDY "AZALEAS 




PTNK RHODODKNDRON AND BLUEBELLS 



r^m^W 




MEXICAN ORANGE BLOSSOM (CHOISYA TERNATA) 
(An evergreen with white fragrant flowers) 



April — Making Ready for Summer 

to show upon Peach and Nectarine trees out of doors 
is called Peach-leaf blister ; it raises ugly reddish or 
greenish-red blisters on the leaves, severely weakening 
the growth of the trees, and, if not treated, is likely 
sooner or later to destroy them. When a tree is badly 
attacked it is a difficult matter to arrest the disease. 
Leaves that are much diseased ought to be cut off and 
burnt, and the trees should be sprayed with Bordeaux 
Mixture after the crop is set. A preparation called 
Medeola is said to effect a cure. 

The Gooseberry Sawfly. — The larvae of the Goose- 
berry sawfly are fearfully destructive in some gardens 
and ruin the leaves unless preventive measures are taken 
in good time. Various substances are recommended for 
dusting on the bushes at this season, such as lime, soot, 
or hellebore powder, with the object of preventing the 
deposition of eggs by the flies ; these substances should 
be used while the bushes are moist. Spraying with 
paraffin emulsion is recommended for the destruction 
of the larvae. 

Fruit Trees under Glass. — The secrets of success in 
the cultivation of fruits under glass are to maintain an 
equable temperature, especially in spring when the shoots 
are tender, to admit air as freely as possible when the 
trees are in bloom, to keep the border moist though not 
saturated, and to make no attempt to force the develop- 
ment of the fruits until the " stoning " period has passed. 
When Grapes are as large as small marbles and Peaches 
and Nectarines the size of Walnuts they do not apparentlj'- 
increase in size for several weeks, and during that period 
they need unusual care in the matter of ventilation and 
heating. An average temperature of 55" or 60* is suitable. 
Strawberries in pots must have a light and airy position 
near the glass so that the fruits may ripen thoroughly. 
Tomatoes should now be potted in 5-inch pots, using good 
turfy soil. Seeds of Melon, Cucumber, and Vegetable 
Marrow are sown singly in small pots. 

203 



Round the Year in the Garden 

In the Kitchen Garden 

Among the most important crops to sow this month 
are the various winter Greens, such, for example, as Brussels 
Sprouts, Borecole or Kale, Savoy, Cabbage and Sprouting 
Broccoli. They may either be sown in drills or broadcast 
on a border of which the surface soil has been broken up. 
Broccoli for winter use is sown now, the variety Christmas 
White being suitable. Onions and Leeks that were raised 
under glass in early spring ought now to be planted out- 
The finest Leeks are obtained by planting in a trench as 
for Celery, but an alternative method is to make deep 
holes, about 2 inches wide, and to put the seedlings in 
these, the tops of the leaves being on a level with the 
ground surface. As the plants grow the stems will fill 
the holes and become blanched without further trouble 
on the grower's part. 

Asparagus. — Now is the time to plant and sow Aspar- 
agus. This vegetable is grown on a raised bed 6 feet wide, 
which accommodates three rows of plants. If it is intended 
to cut the produce during the first summer, three-year-old 
plants must be put in. The roots are placed 10 or 12 inches 
apart. Seeds are sown thinly in drills drawn longitud- 
inally down the bed. The seedlings must be thinned 
finally to 10 or 12 inches apart. Cutting ought not to 
take place until the third summer. Established beds may 
be given a sprinkling of salt now with advantage, or a 
light top-dressing of rich soil. 

Cucumber and Marrow.— Seeds of Cucumber ought 
to be sown singly in small pots plunged in a hotbed in 
frame or greenhouse. When the seedlings are well rooted 
in small pots they are planted in small mounds of soil 
on the hotbed. The Cucumber needs a compost of half 
loam and half leaf soil ; small mounds only should be made, 
and as the roots show through further compost is added 
from time to time. Every Day is an excellent Cucumber. 
Seeds of Vegetable Marrow are no^v sown in pots of soil in 
a frame or greenhouse. It is not necessary to put Vege- 

204 



April — Making Ready for Summer 

table Marrows on a heap of manure or extremely rich soil 
as so many do. Excellent and more useful fruits are often 
obtained by planting on a mound of ordinary soil. 

Seedlings of Cauliflower raised in autumn, and of Onion, 
Leek and early Peas raised in spring, may now be planted 
out of doors. Sow Peas for successive crops. If the main 
crop of Carrots has not yet been sown it should be done 
withoiit delay. Unless precautions are taken to keep 
away slugs by sprinkling the soil with soot and lime many 
seedlings will be lost. The soil between the rows should 
be kept loose by hoeing. Seedlings of Celery raised last 
month are now ready to transplant on a bed of rich soil in 
a frame. If placed about 4 inches apart they will make 
sturdy plants for putting in trenches later on. For a 
week or so the frame must be kept closed during the 
greater part of the day, but afterwards air ought to be 
admitted freely. 

Lettuce, both Cos and Cabbage varieties, may be sown 
now out of doors, in drills 10 or 12 inches apart. The 
seedlings must be thinned until eventually they are 8 or 9 
inches apart. It is best from this time onwards to sow 
Lettuce where it is to remain ; transplanted seedlings are 
liable to run to seed. Sow seeds of Cauliflower Autumn 
Giant on a warm border to provide a succession to those 
planted ovit from an autumn sowing. Sow Spinach Beetroot 
in drills 15 inches apart, thinning the seedlings to 7 or 8 
inches from each other. To provide spring Broccoli sow 
seeds of Snow White or Methven's June, and transplant 
the seedlings before planting permanently. Parsley and 
Radish seed should be sown as required, taking care to 
thin the seedlings properly. If an early crop of Runner or 
French Beans is required seeds may be sown in boxes in 
a frame, the seedlings to be planted out of doors next 
month. 



205 



MAY 

Lilac Time 

MAY is the month of Bhiebells and Tulips, Lilac 
and Thorn, Golden Chain and Rhododendron, of 
Poppy, Paeony and Iris. There is not the full flush of 
beauty and colour that comes with the later days, 
with Jiine and early July, but the plants seem possessed 
of the joy of hope and the vigour of youth ; there is no 
suggestion of middle age in their lustiness, no semblance 
of decay. The trees and shrubs still show their character- 
istic leaf tints that later become merged in the green 
monotone of summer, and the fading spring blossoms 
are scarce noticed among innumerable others that are 
progressing to greater beauty. It is Lilac time and 
Bluebell time, the time of May and Fleur-de-lis ; the 
garden is a sanctuary, a place of perfect peace, of frail 
and fragrant loveliness. 

Among the Hardy Flowers 

The Rhododendron stands pre-eminent, even among 
the hardy flowers of May, and ranks as the noblest of 
evergreen flowering trees hardy in the British Isles. 
It used to be said that a peaty soil was essential 
to its successful cultivation, but fortunately it will 
thrive just as well in loam. Rhododendrons prefer a 
somewhat sheltered spot; in an exposed position the 
blossoms are liable to be caught by late frost. Nothing 
benefits them more than a mulch or top-dressing of 
decayed leaves or manure in spring. Generally the 
bushes need little pruning, though it is wise to remove 
the faded flowers to prevent the formation of seed pods. 
If, however, a bush is becoming unshapely, the branches 

206 



May — Lilac Time 

that destroy its symmetry should be shortened suf- 
ficiently to restore a proper balance as soon as the 
flowers have faded. If really severe pruning is thought 
necessary, it should be undertaken in March, so that 
the season of growth may be as long as jDossible; one 
season's crop of blossom is then sacrificed. A few 
remarkably fine sorts are Pink Pearl, pink ; Broughtoni, 
rose-red ; Catawbiense, mauve ; Charles Dickens, bright 
red ; Gomer Waterer, almost white ; Lady Clementina 
Mitford, peach shade ; Lord Palmerstoii, rose-red ; Mrs. 
E. C. Stirling, pale pink ; Sappho, white with dark 
blotches ; Vauban, mauve with yellow blotches ; and 
John Waterer, crimson. 

The Lilac. — Although Syringa is the correct botanical 
name of Lilac, it is used by most- amateurs to refer to 
the Mock Orange, which is really Philadelphus. There 
is no greater favourite among flowering shrubs than 
Lilac ; the fragrant blossomed bushes are one of the chief 
glories of an English garden in May. The complaint 
is often made that Lilacs do not blossom satisfactorily, 
and the cause may usually be traced to incorrect pruning, 
or to neglect of pruning altogether. The proper time 
to carry out this task is when the flowers have faded ; 
sucker growths, those that develop from the ground 
level, must be removed, and old and weakly branches 
should be cut out. It is only by keeping the stems 
fairly thinly disposed that a satisfactory blossoming 
is obtained. Trees which have been allowed to become 
a tangle of weak shoots will need drastic treatment, but 
if correct treatment is practised from the first most of 
the necessary pruning may be done by means of dis- 
budding in early summer. Shoots that are ill placed, 
or for which there is not sufficient space, ought to be 
rubbed off while small ; thus the remaining branches 
will have all the better chance of developing and matur- 
ing. It is best to obtain plants that have been raised 
from layers ; they are usually healthier and longer lived 

207 



Round the Year in the Garden 

than those that have been grafted. There are many 
named varieties of Lilac, of Tvhich the following are a 
few of the best : Abel Carri^re, purplish blue, and Mere 
Micheli, lilac, both doubles. Of single-flowered sorts 
there are Charles X, reddish ; Marie le Graye, white ; 
Souvenir de Louis Spath, reddish, and alba grandiflora, 
white. The Persian Lilac, a small bush of slender, gi'aceful 
growth and bearing lilac-coloured, fragrant flowers, is par- 
ticularly attractive. 

The Brooms are very beautiful in May, and few 
shrubs flower more profusely. They thrive best in light 
or at least well-drained soil. It is necessary to put out 
small plants grown in pots, for they are difficult to trans- 
plant successfully from the open ground even when small, 
and more difficult still when of fair size. Once planted 
they should be left undisturbed. It is only during the 
early life of these shrubs that pruning can be attempted, 
for if one cuts back into the old branches they are not 
likely to start into fresh growth. While the shoots are 
young they can be cut back safely, with the object 
of forming shapely bushes. Two of the most attractive 
are the white Broom (Oytisus albus) and the Primrose 
Broom (Cytisus praecox), while others equally popular 
are the common Broom (C. scoparius) and its variety 
andreanus, which has handsome blooms in crimson and 
yellow. Among the trailing kinds, suitable for planting 
on ledges in the rock garden, are C. kewensis, cream 
coloured, and C. Ardoini, with yellow flowers. The 
pvirple-flowered Broom is quite distinct from the others 
named; it produces fresh shoots every year from the 
root stock, and when the flower display is over the 
old shoots may be cut out to allow fresh ones to 
develop. 

Laburnum, or Golden Chain.— Few shrubs have 
greater charm than the Laburnum, or Golden Chain ; 
it is without rival in beauty when laden with its hand- 
some tresses of bloom. Although the common kind, 

208 



May — Lilac Time 

Laburnum vulgare, is usually planted, there are one or 
two others to which attention may worthily be drawn. 
One called Parksii has remarkable flower bunches from 
12 to 15 inches in length, while the Scotch Laburnum, 
too, is handsome, and rather earlier than the common 
kind. An extraordinary Laburnum is that known as 
Adami ; it is not a true Laburnum, but a graft hybrid 
between Laburnum and purple Broom, and resulted 
after the Broom had been grafted upon the Laburnum. 
The tree bears some flowers like the Laburnum, some 
like the Broom, and still others which are intermediate 
between the two. The Laburnum requires no regular 
pruning, though at this season old and weakly shoots 
may be cut out, if that is deemed necessary. The tree 
is readily raised from seed sown as soon as ripe; in 
fact, self-sown seedlings are often common. 

Another attractive and popular flowering shrub in 
May is the Judas Tree (Cercis siliquastrum) ; it bears 
small rose-red blooms, not only on the younger shoots 
but even on the oldest branches, and sometimes on the 
stem. 

The Mexican Orange Blossom (Choisya ternata) is 
a beautiful evergreen, now laden with its bunches of 
fragrant white flowers ; in mild districts it may be grown 
as a bush in the open, but in other places needs the 
protection of a wall. 

The Mock Orange, or Philadelphus, which many 
people still call Syringa (really the correct botanical 
title of Lilac), is an indispensable flowering shrub of 
June, and among the easiest of all to grow. It thrives 
in ordinary soil, and all the pruning required is to cut 
out a few of the oldest shoots, if that should seem 
necessary, as soon as the flowers are over. The blos- 
soms are produced with the greatest profusion upon 
shoots of the previous year. Such cross-bred sorts as 
Lemoinei, Avalanche, Boule d' Argent, and Rosace give 
the best results if the shoots that have flowered are cut 
o 209 



Round the Year in the Garden 

back to vigorous young growths as soon as the blossoms 
have faded. 

The Ceanothus, or Mountain Sweet, is a group of 
blue - flowered shrubs not at all commonly planted by 
amateurs, yet it contains many charming sorts which 
flower in spring and late summer. The early-flowering 
sorts are the least hardy, and therefore need the 
shelter of a wall to be seen at their best ; among them 
are Veitchianus, thyrsiflorus, griseus, papillosus and 
rigidus, all having blossoms of some shade of blue. 
The time to prune these is as soon as the flowers have 
faded; side growths are then shortened to within 2 
inches or so of the base, and worthless shoots or those 
for which there is no room are cut out. Of the 
Ceanothus that bloom in late summer, most valuable 
for the amateur are the varieties of C. azureus, such, 
for example, as Gloire de Versailles and Indigo, blue; 
Ceres and Marie Simon, rose-coloured. The proper time 
to prune these is in spring, for they flower on the 
current year's growth, while the spring-flowering set 
blossom on shoots formed during the previous summer. 

Staking Border Carnations is a work that needs 
careful attention ; the flower stems visually begin to 
appear early, and it is necessary that they should be 
staked in good time. An important point is to make 
sure that the stakes are sufficiently long, for nothing 
is more annoying than to find the stakes overtopped 
by the stems before the plants are properly in bloom. 
The special coil stakes are no doubt most convenient, 
since tying is dispensed with ; otherwise wooden stakes, 
preferably painted green, are used. Perhaps the best 
tying material is the green raffia tape ; it should first 
be tied to the stake and then fastened loosely round 
the stem of the plant. 

Hardy Flowers from Seed. — Seeds of all sorts of 
hardy flowers may still be sown, the choicer kinds in 
pots or boxes in a frame, and the remainder on a 

2IO 



May — Lilac Time 

prepared border out of doors. Such florist's flowers as 
Columbine, Snapdragon, Pansy and Viola are com- 
monly raised from seed sown now, though in fact 
practically any and every border flower may be treated 
similarly. When the seedlings are large enough to 
transplant conveniently they should be put out at 
greater distances apart, there to remain until early 
autumn, when they will be planted in their permanent 
positions. 

Spring-flowering Plants.— The flowers that made 
the beds and borders gay in spring are now past their 
best, and should be removed to make way for summer 
bloom. Such as Daisy, Polyanthus, Primrose, Viola 
and Aubrietia may be increased by dividing the plants 
and replanting the separate portions on a cool border; 
there they will remain until required for permanent 
planting in October. Such as Yellow Alyssum, Avibrietia 
and Arabis are easily increased by means of cuttings 
inserted in pots or boxes in a frame kept closed for a few 
weeks. All these, however, may be raised from seed, 
together with Wallflowers and Forget-me-nots. To 
increase the latter it is merely necessary to take up the 
old plants, put them out on a partially shaded border, 
and allow the seeds to fall ; there will be an abundant 
crop of self-sown seedlings. Wallflowers ought to be sown 
without delay, so as to ensure sturdy plants for putting 
out in October. Seeds are sown in shallow drills on a cool 
border, the seedlings being subsequently transplanted at 
about 10 inches apart. At that time it is advisable to 
pinch off" the end of the tap-root. Other popular flowers 
to raise from seed sown now are Canterbury Bells and 
Sweet Williams ; they need similar treatment to that 
outlined for the other flowers mentioned. 

Hardening off Bedding Plants.— In preparation for 
planting out of doors in early June all tender plants 
that are used for summer beds ought to be hardened off in 
frames, such, for example, as Dahlia, Fuchsia, Geranium, 

211 



Round the Year in the Garden 

Canna and others. In the absence of frames the plants 
may be put against a warm wall, and in case of frost pro- 
tection can easily be given by means of mats supported by 
sticks. 

Thinning Herbaceous Perennials. — Herbaceous per- 
ennials are now growing vigorously, and to obtain the 
best results it is necessary to reduce the number of shoots 
on each clump ; this applies particularly to such as Del- 
phinium, Helenium, Erigeron, Aconitum, Phlox and other 
strong-growing kinds. The plants ought also to be staked 
in good time, for if the stems are allowed to fall about, 
they become misshapen and remain so throughout the 
summer. The simplest plan of staking is to arrange 
a few stakes around the outside of each clump, and 
to supjjort the stems Avith bands of string, each band 
being 8 inches or so above the other. Stakes should be 
chosen of such a height that when the plants are in bloom 
they will be practically hidden. 

Quick-acting Fertilisers may now be applied to 
border plants and Roses with advantage ; the patent 
preparations sold by nurserymen are most convenient 
generally for amateurs. Those who wish to make their 
own can do so by mixing phosphate of potash with 
nitrate of soda, in equal parts. One ounce dissolved 
in 2 gallons of water gives a solution of the correct 
strength ; this may be applied once a week during May 
and June ; alternatively, it may be scattered on the soil 
at the rate of 1 ounce to the square yard and hoed in. 
The best time to apply these fertilisers is after rain, or 
after watering has been done ; it is a mistake to use them 
when the soil is dry. The surface soil is apt to become 
hard if sunshine follows after the garden has been watered, 
but this may be obviated if the hoe is applied freely 
the day following watering. 

Insect Pests increase rapidly in the Rose garden 
and necessitate repressive measui-es. One of the most 
annoying is the leaf -rolling sawfly, because insecticides 

212 



•,«w«w«MSWs»¥$>Mr-«*: -t-rsfV 







May — Lilac Time 

are useless. This pest hides itself within the rolled 
edges of the leaves, and the only way to get rid of it 
is to cut off the affected leaves — a practice that cannot 
be pursued indefinitely without harm to the Roses — 
or to search for and destroy the grubs. The Rose-leaf 
hopper causes the foliage to become mottled with 
white specks ; the result is not only to disfigure them 
but to weaken the plants. This insect is commonest 
on Roses grown against a wall. Both it and red 
spider seem to prefer warm and dry conditions, 
therefore spraying the trees forcibly and frequently 
with the hose is advantageous. Syringing with nico- 
tine wash is the best remedy for the leaf hopper. Red 
spider may be got rid of by using a solution of salt, 
1 tablespoonful dissolved in 1 gallon of water. 

Cvickoo Spit, or Frog Hopper, is a common and well- 
known insect pest ; the froth which surrounds the 
insect is easily dispersed by means of syringing ; then 
the insect can be killed. The damage done by the 
leaf -cutting bee is very characteristic; circular portions 
are cut out of the leaves of Roses, and with these the 
bee builds its nest. In my experience the attacks are 
chiefly confined to Roses against a wall or fence, in 
which neighbourhood the nest is usually to be found. 
The way to get rid of this insect is to trace it to its nest 
and then to destroy the latter, which is frequently in 
a crevice of the wall or other convenient place. 

One of the most destructive caterpillars that 
damage Rose leaves is that of a sawfly called the Rose 
emphytus ; it eats large pieces out of the leaves and, 
in common with other leaf-eating caterpillars, renders 
them unsightly and weakens the plants. Hand picking 
and syringing with hellebore wash offer the best 
remedies. 

Greenfly and Caterpillars. — Among insects that 
may now be expected to cause trouble, especially 
among Roses, are greenfly and various caterpillars. 

213 



Round the Year in the Garden 

The best way of dealing witli the latter is to destroy 
as many as possible by hand picking, and to syringe 
the bushes with hellebore wash. This is made by 
mixing a little flour and hellebore powder together 
and dissolving them in water. There are all sorts of 
convenient remedies for getting rid of greenfly, though 
there is probably nothing better than Abol insecticide. 
A home-made remedy is obtained by boiling ^ lb. of 
quassia chips and ^ lb. of soft soap for two hours in 1 
gallon of water ; the solution is subsequently strained 
and diluted with 2 gallons of water and syringed on the 
plants. 

Mildew^ may be expected to make its appearance on 
Roses towards the end of the month, and it is essential 
to take measures at once for its destruction. A simple 
remedy is to use sulphide of potassium (liver of sulphur), 
dissolving h oz. in 1 gallon of water and syringing the 
affected leaves. Cyllin soft soap, which is obtainable 
from chemists, also makes a suitable solution. 

Water Lilies. — The presence of water adds greatly to 
the delight of a garden and affords the means of growing 
many beautiful plants that otherwise could scarcely be 
suited. Water Lilies (Nymphaeas) should be the first 
choice among water plants. The present is an excellent 
time to put them out. The best plan is first to plant each 
one in a small basket of loamy soil, to weight this with 
stones, and to sink it on a mound of soil at the bottom of 
the pond. Nymphaeas will not thrive in swiftly fiowing, 
and therefore cold, water, but in pools, ponds, lakes, 
tanks, and even tubs, they are quite at home, and give 
much distinction and charm to the garden scene. Some 
varieties are more vigorous than others, and a large 
expanse of water is necessary for their accommodation. 
Among those suitable for small ponds and tubs are Layde- 
keri fulgens, rosea and lucida, pygmaea and helveola. 
Other delightful water plants are the native Bog Bean 

(Menyanthes), the Water Violet (Hottonia), and the flower- 

214 



May — Lilac Time 

ing Rush (Butomus), while for the boggy margin there is 
unlimited choice among the gorgeous Japanese and other 
Irises, the Japanese and Himalayan Primroses, the Mocca- 
sin Flower (Cypripedium spectabile), Musk, Arum Lily, and 
Marsh Marigold, to mention only a few of the smaller 
plants that are suitable. 

In the Greenhouse 

This is a busy time in the greenhouse, for it is now 
that preparations must be made for ensui'ing a display 
of blossom in winter and early spring. In the first place, 
seedlings that were raised early in the year must be 
'• pricked off " or repotted. At this season plants make 
rapid growth, and if they are allowed to remain in their 
flower-pots after having filled them with roots they 
will suffer a check which is bound to have a prejudicial 
influence. 

Cineraria seeds should now be sown. There are two 
chief types of Cineraria, the ordinary florist's kind, of which 
the flowers are large and the plants comparatively low- 
growing, and the Star-flowered type, of which the plants 
are taller, branching, and bear smaller flowers in greater 
quantities. Chinese Primulas will be in full blossom in 
early spring from seed so^wn now ; they, too, are readily 
divided into two distinct types. The Star-flowered 
varieties are more graceful than the ordinary kind, 
though their flowers lack the size and substance of the 
latter. The seeds of both Primula and Cineraria are 
sown thinly in pots or pans in finely sifted soil; a cold 
and shaded frame is the best place for them. When 
water is required it should be given by immersing the 
seed-pot to the rim in water, not by using a watering 
can. 

Azaleas are favoui'ite flowers in the amateur's green- 
hoxise ; many fail to induce them to blossom freely year 
after year, a failure that is no doubt due to incorrect 

215 



Round the Year in the Garden 

treatment after the flowers have faded. Dead blooms 
ought to be removed to prevent the formation of seeds, 
and any pruning that is necessary to preserve the sym- 
metry of the bush should be done now. The plants must 
be encouraged to grow freely, and this is best accomplished 
by placing them in a warm, moist greenhouse for 
a month or so. About the middle of June they may 
be placed out of doors ; there they remain until Septem- 
ber, when they are brought into the greenhouse. If 
repotting is necessary, it should be done as soon as 
the flowers have faded; the best soil to use is peat, 
in which sand is mixed freely. Potting must be very 
firm, and a wooden rammer is required for the purpose. 
Azaleas need very careful watering ; if allowed to get 
dry, or if water is given so frequently as to render the 
soil sodden, they soon become unhealthy. 

The Herbaceous Calceolaria.— There are few more 
handsome flowers for the greenhouse in spring and early 
summer than the herbaceous Calceolaria; its require- 
ments are simple, and there is no great difficulty in 
growing it, though some care and attention are needed. 
Now is the tinae to sow seeds ; these are very small 
and must be sown thinly in pots or boxes of sifted soil. 
No covering is needed except that given by a slight 
scattering of sand. The seeds germinate best in a cool, 
shaded frame. When the seedlings are ready to trans- 
plant they should be put singly in small pots, and 
when well rooted should be given another shift into 
4-inch wide pots. They will remain in those throughout 
the winter, and in early spring are finally placed in pots 
7 or 8 inches in diameter. The Calceolaria needs perfectly 
cool treatment and shade from sunshine, together with 
careful watering. A temperature of 45° in winter is 
quite high enough. 

Many of the little plants raised from seed or cuttings 
in spring, such as Primula, Perpetual Carnation, and 
others, must be transplanted or repotted as becomes 

2l6 



May — Lilac Time 

necessary. Those who grow garden flowers for winter 
and spring will find a frame essential for the accommo- 
dation of the plants during summer ; there they are kept 
moderately cool and given such equable conditions of 
moisture and temperature as ensure satisfactory 
growth. 

Chrysanthemums. — Plants that are grown for the 
prodviction of large blooms should have been repotted as 
became necessary during spring, and by now ought to be 
in 6-inch flower-pots out of doors, after having been 
"hardened off" in frames. Usually in May, what is 
known as the "break "bud appears at the apex of the 
young plant and causes the latter to produce fresh shoots, 
three of which are generally left to form the principal 
branches. In August a bud will form in the apex of each 
of these branches or shoots ; it is known as the first crown 
bud. Some varieties produce the best blooms from the 
first crown, others from the second crown bud. If it is 
decided to retain the first crow^n, all the little shoots that 
form below it must be rubbed off ; this process is known 
as " taking " the bud. If, however, it is essential that a 
variety shall bloom from the second crown buds, the 
first crown buds are removed and one fresh shoot on each 
branch is allowed to continue its development. These 
will subsequently bear second crown buds, and to " take " 
them, the little shoots immediately beneath are rubbed 
off. 

Arum Lilies. — When the ordinary white Arum Lily, 
grown in flower-pots, has finished flowering, the plants 
ought to be hardened off by being placed in a frame or 
at the foot of a sheltered wall ; they may then be put out 
of doors for the summer. Some gardeners prefer to keep 
them in pots and by gradually decreasing the supplies of 
water " dry them off " ; when the leaves have died down 
watering is discontinued. Most people, however, plant 
them in the garden for the summer months, leaving them 

217 



Round the Year in the Garden 

there until September. They are then taken up and 
repotted. When established in the flower-pots they may 
be brought into bloom slowly or quickly, as desired, and 
according to the warmth of the greenhouse. 



In the Fruit Garden 

Watering Fruit Trees. — Fruit trees growing against 
walls often fail to produce satisfactory crops of fruit, and 
the gardener is at a loss to determine the cause. This 
may frequently be traced to allowing the trees to get dry 
at the roots in early summer. Even during winter the soil 
close to the wall is often comparatively dry, and as spring 
advances the roots are liable to sviffer from lack of 
moisture, unless watering is practised. Should a period of 
dry weather set in, all trees growing against walls must 
be thoroughly watered, otherwise the small fruits are 
likely to fall off. 

The same advice applies to Roses and other shrubs in 
similar positions. 

Thinning Fruits. — It often happens that hardy fruits 
form or "set" in such numbers that it becomes necessary 
to remove some of them. Small ones and those that are so 
placed as unlikely to develop properly— as for example 
between a branch and the wall — should be removed first. 
It is usual to alloTV, on Peach and Nectarine trees, one 
fruit to each square foot of wall space, though they 'are 
not necessarily evenly distributed. Such as Apple, Pear, 
and Plum, of which the fruits are in clusters, must be 
thinned as common sense dictates ; it is a mistake to allow 
a tree to bear an abnormally heavy crop. Disbudding 
must be continued, especially with Peach, Nectarine, and 
Morello Cherry, though it is an excellent plan to look over 
all fruit trees occasionally at this season and to remove 
superfluous shoots. If this were done more frequently 
fruit trees would not become full of weak, useless 

218 



May — Lilac Time 

growths, as they so often do, and the task of pruning 
would be lightened. 

Fruit Trees in Pots. — Probably comparatively few 
amateurs grow hardy fruits in pots because of the 
considerable amount of labour involved. Yet those 
having a light and airy glasshouse, whether heated or 
not, would find their cultivation full of interest and not 
without profit. They must be kept as cool as possible 
until the fruits have formed, and, especially while the 
trees are in bloom, air should be admitted freely. Dis- 
budding is one of the most important items in the care of 
Peach, Plum, Nectarine and Cherry trees grown in pots. 
It is far better to rub off superfluous shoots while they 
are small than to allow them to make unnecessary growth. 

Thinning Grapes. — The task of thinning is essential 
to the production of fine grapes, and a certain skill is 
required to perform it satisfactorily. A pair of grape 
scissors — which have long, narrow blades — and a slender 
forked stick are required ; the latter is held in the left 
hand for the purpose of keeping the bunch steady, the 
central stem of the bunch being in the fork of the stick. 
All small, seedless berries are removed first, particularly 
those in the centre of the bunch, then ill-placed ones, 
those that spoil the symmetry of the bunch, are cut 
out. 

Thinning ought not to be completed on one occasion. In 
three or four weeks the bunches should be looked over 
again, further superfluous grapes then being cut out. 
Each berry of a variety like Black Hamburgh will be 
about half an inch wide when ripe ; those of Alicante and 
other larger varieties need even more space. In thinning 
special care must be taken not to cut off the terminal 
berries of the branches that make up the bunch, for the 
proper outline of the latter depends upon them. 

The side shoots of the vine must be " stojDped " imme- 
diately beyond the first or second leaf that develops behind 

219 



Round the Year in the Garden 

the bunch of grapes. Other secondary growths, called 
sub-laterals, will form and should be " stopped " as soon as 
one leaf has formed. Otherwise the trellis will become 
covered with a thicket of useless shoots. 

If Peach trees were disbudded as has been advised, 
some of the new shoots will be long enough to tie down to 
the trellis— there ought to be only two or three on each of 
the older shoots. They must be tied parallel with the 
existing stems which they are destined to replace. Except 
when the fruit trees are in flower, the atmosphere of the 
glasshouse must be kept moist by syringing once or twice 
a day. The ventilators should be opened slightly early in 
the morning, wider still as the day advances, and closed 
between three and four o'clock in the afternoon. 

Melons and Cucumbers that were raised from seed 
last month may now be planted in a bed of soil on a 
hotbed in a frame or they can be grown in larger pots in 
the greenhouse. Melons like turfy soil. Cucumbers half 
loam and half leafmould. A little soil should be placed 
over the roots in the form of a mound, this being added to 
as the roots show through. When the plants are about 
9 inches high the points are pinched out to cause side 
shoots to grow, and on these the fruits will form. It is 
necessary to fertilise the female flowers of the Melon with 
pollen from the staminate or male flowers to obtain fruits ; 
this ought only to be done when several female blooms 
are open at the same time, otherwise the fruits will 
be of irregular size. 

In the Kitchen Garden 

Runner Beans may now be sown out of doors in 
deeply - prepared and enriched soil ; place the seeds 
about 2 inches deep, and thin the seedlings to 6 inches 
apart. The rows ought to be 5 feet apart. Prizewinner 
and Hackwood Park Success are excellent varieties. 

220 




BELLFLOWER (CAMPANULA MURALIS) PLANTED IN DRY WALL 



May — Lilac Time 

Dwarf French Beans are sown now 3 or 4 inches apart 
in rows from 12 to 15 inches distant from each other. 
Butter Beans are treated similarly. 

Seed of Beetroot is now sown in shallow drills 10 
inches apart. The seedlings are thinned to 7 or 8 inches. 
This crop needs to be grown in ground that has not 
been manured recently, though it must be deeply dug. 
Dell's Crimson and Cheltenham Green Top are reliable 
varieties. 

Various Herbs may be raised from seed at this 
season, such, for example, as Parsley, Sage and 
Marjoram. Mint and Thyme are easily increased by 
taking up and dividing the clumps and replanting 
rooted portions. 

Ridge Cucumbers. — Those who have no convenience 
for growing Cucumbers in a frame or greenhouse should 
try the ridge varieties, seeds of which may be sown 
out of doors this month, in a bed of soil over a small 
hotbed of leaves and manure. The seedlings need pro- 
tection in the event of cold weather ; they should not 
be closer together than 2 feet. The toj) of each plant 
must be pinched off to cause the formation of side 
shoots. Plants of Cucumber that were raised under 
glass last month may now be planted in a frame ; a 
small mound of compost is placed upon a hotbed and 
the seedling planted in this. 

Early Potatoes should be earthed up, first scattering 
a little soot around the plants. The soil must be broken 
up finely, otherwise the work cannot be carried out 
satisfactorily. Plant the earliest raised seedlings of 
Celery in trenches ; sow Peas. Scatter soot among 
spring - sown Onions and hoe frequently between the 
rows of all vegetables. Thin seedlings as this im- 
portant work becomes necessary. 

Mushrooms may now be grown in a cool, open shed, 
such, for example, as one that faces north. Sufficient 
horse manure is collected to form a bed not less than 

221 



Round the Year in the Garden 

2 feet thick ; it must be turned frequently during a 
period of ten days or a fortnight before being made up 
as a bed. Insert pieces of spawn 5 or 6 inches apart 
when the temperature of the bed has decHned to 85^. 
Cover the bed with 2 inches depth of sifted soil and 
beat this with the back of a spade. Finally cover 
with a light scattering of straw and keep moist. 



222 



JUNE 

Flowers and Fragrance 

THE garden in June is in its most captivating mood ; 
many of the plants are in blossom, many more are 
in bud. Such disappointments as may be in store have 
yet to materialise. The garden in June is full of the 
joy of life ; the glamour of hope and the promise of 
good things to come are all-pervading. Days are 
long, nights are cool, and the fragrance of countless 
petals fills the air ; the flowers are never so sweet as in 
June. Grassy ways are green, the leaves are fresh, there 
are signs on every hand of life, full, vigorous, beauteous 
life, and no portents of the withering that must follow. 
The Roses are opening fast, and never again will they 
be so sweet. The Pinks form a fragrant fringe to the 
garden path, every pole is covered with buds and blossoms 
bursting through untarnished leaves ; white Lilies mingle 
with Damask Roses ; Clematis peeps from climbing Rose 
— everywhere there is fair, fresh bloom and never a 
fading leaf. How to prolong the ecstasy of June is 
the problem of the gardener. It is accomplished only 
by the adoption of prosaic methods — by plying the hoe 
to keep the surface soil loose and to preserve the precious 
moisture ; by picking off the flowers as they fade ; by 
timely watering morning or evening, but never at noon; 
by curbing a trespassing shoot here and encouraging a 
weakly one there ; by careful tying and staking and the 
annihilation of weeds. The observance of such common- 
place tasks alone can keep the garden gay to its close 
and imbue it with some of the spirit of youth, even 
when it is old. 

223 



Round the Year in the Garden 

Among the Hardy Flowers 

Increasing Pinks. — The orthodox method of increas- 
ing Pinks is by means of piiDings. The difference between 
a piping and a cutting is that while the stem of the 
latter is cut through beneath a joint, a piping is merely 
pulled off. The shoot is held firmly with the left hand 
while its top is given a sharp pull. Pipings, which ought 
to be 2 or 3 inches long, form roots readily if inserted in 
pots or boxes of sandy soil in a frame which is kept 
closed for a few weeks. A packet of seed sown now 
in a frame, or even out of doors, produces plants that 
will yield a delightful display next summer. Still 
another method of increasing Pinks, and perhaps the 
simplest of all, is to take up the clumps in September, 
divide them and replant the pieces, most of which will 
be found to possess roots. 

Hardy Azaleas. — There is no colouring so intense in 
early June as that of the hardy Azaleas, and it is difficult 
to imagine why amateurs do not plant them more fre- 
quently. The variety of shades represented by their 
blossoms is remarkable, and ranges from white through 
pink to crimson, and from pale yellow to deep orange. If 
grouped in an open spot among trees they are seen to the 
best advantage, for the surrounding greenery forms a 
perfect setting to their brilliant colours. The hardy 
Azaleas are of simple cultivation and thrive in ordinary 
soil, though the addition of a little peat to the ground at 
planting time is advisable. Like Rhododendrons, they 
appreciate a mulch of rotted manure or leaves in spring 
or early summer. Their only real objection is to soil 
containing lime. These shrubs have a second period of 
beauty in autumn, when the leaves become richly tinted 
and glow brightly in the mist of an October afternoon. 
Little pruning is required. If a bush is of awkward shape 
the offending branches may be shortened immediately the 
flowers are over ; otherwise no attention in this direction is 
needed beyond cutting out dead, weak, or obviously useless 

224 



June — Flowers and Fragrance 

branches. Seed pods should not be allowed to form, or 
the future blossoming of the shrubs may be affected. 

Thinning and Staking are two important tasks in the 
flower garden. Annuals, seeds of which were sown where 
the plants are to bloom, must be thinned so that each 
seedling has sufficient space for development. If they are 
crowded they become weak and their flowering season is 
short. The blossoming period of Poppies, Sweet Peas, 
Violas and others may be extended considerably if the 
fading flowers are picked off ; if seed is allowed to form 
the display soon diminishes. Faded Roses ought to be cut 
off as soon as their beauty is past, otherwise the petals 
fall on the soil and in rainy weather detract from the 
display. This is particularly necessary with red Roses, 
the blooms of w^hich usually fade to magenta and spoil 
the charm of neighbouring blooms. Each Rose should be 
cut off with at least 5 or 6 inches of stem, so as to encour- 
age the growth of other shoots. Plants that need staking 
ought to be attended to without delay ; nothing is more 
annoying than to have the results of a whole year's 
work spoilt for want of a little timely staking. If the 
finest flowers of Roses are wanted, the smaller side buds 
should be removed. This practice is scarcely advisable 
when Roses are grown for garden display, except when 
the flowers are produced rather thickly in bunches. 
Syringing occasionally with Abol or other insecticide 
prevents the spread of greenfly and other insects, though 
as many caterpillars as possible ought to be destroyed by 
hand picking. 

Many beautiful hardy flowers can be raised with the 
greatest ease from seeds sown now in well prepared soil 
on a partially shaded border. Among them are Holly- 
hock, Aquilegia or Columbine, Foxglove, Sweet William, 
Snapdragon, Viola, Pansy, Delphinium, Lupin, Campan- 
ula, Oriental Poppy, Erigeron, Iceland Poppy and many 
more. The seedlings need only be transplanted once 
before they are permanently planted in autimm. 

P 22:; 



Round the Year in the Garden 

Some of the Rambling Roses make such vigorous 
growth that the flowers become partially hidden. Shoots 
develop among the blossoms of such varieties as 
Dorothy Perkins, and should be cut off. Fresh stems 
often arise in such numbers from the base of the old 
plants that it is essential to remove the weakest of them. 
The lawn ought to be mown regularly once or twice 
a week, and mowing should be followed by rolling. Pro- 
viding mowing is done frequently it is not necessary 
to use a box on the machine ; in fact, it is, I think, pref- 
erable not to do so, for the grass cuttings serve as a 
slight mulch, and prevent the lawn from becoming 
parched. 

Watering is a task that occupies much time at this 
season, and during a long spell of dry weather it cannot 
be neglected. It is far better to give the beds a soaking 
once a week than to moisten them partially every day, 
though in the evening of a hot day sprinkling with the 
hose does good. As has been pointed out before, trees 
and shrubs against walls are most likely to suffer from 
drought, and especial attention should be paid to them. 
Rock garden plants need watering frequently during 
dry weather ; they are, or ought to be, in well-drained 
soil, and quickly become dry at the root, a condition 
that is inimical to success. 

Summer Bedding. — The practice of filling beds and 
borders with tender flowering plants, popularly known 
as summer bedding, is carried out early in June, when 
such kinds as Fuchsia, Begonia, Lobelia, Geranium, Canna, 
Abutilon and innumerable others are grouped in beds of 
various designs to form colour schemes. Although this 
method of gardening has been severely condemned, it 
has, nevertheless, certain advantages. The plants remain 
attractive until late autumn, and although monotonous, 
they are continuously gay. When they are taken up 
in autumn an opportunity is given to fill the same beds 
with bulbs and other spring flowers in variety. One 

226 



June — Flowers and Fragrance 

of the disadvantages consequent upon svimmer bedding 
is that the plants, being tender, must be kept under glass 
throughout Tvinter, and spring flowers, which are planted 
in autumn, have to be grown on a reserve piece of 
ground throughout summer. Some bedding plants ars 
suitable for furnishing window boxes, such, for example, 
as the Ivy-leaved Pelargonium, Lobelia, Marguerite, Cal- 
ceolaria, Petunia, Verbena and so on, and now is the 
time to attend to this. 

One may fill beds with flowering plants, with foliage 
plants, or with a mixture of the two. The simpler the 
scheme of planting, the more effective it usually proves. 
No summer bedding plant surpasses the Geranium, or more 
correctly Zonal Pelargonium, for brilliance of colour, 
though it is doubtful if its attractiveness is increased 
by association with yellow Calceolaria and blue Lobelia, 
as is so often attempted. A bed filled with the bright 
red Geranium Paul Crampel makes a striking display, 
and its splendour is not enhanced by the presence of 
others. The shrubby yellow Calceolaria remains bright 
for weeks together, but it makes a very ordinary show. 
The blue Lobelia is an excellent blue flower for the 
margin of beds, or for planting as a ground covering 
among taller plants. Canna, or Indian Shot, is a hand- 
some plant, valuable both for its leaves and flowers, 
and looks well upon a carpet of blue Lobelia, grey-leaved 
Cerastium, Verbena, or other suitable low-growing plants. 
One of the prettiest Geraniums is called Flower of 
Spring ; it has green and white leaves and pink blossom 
— an attractive combination. A bed planted with this 
variety may be edged with one of the tricolour-leaved 
sorts, such, for example, as Mrs. Pollock, of which the 
prevailing leaf tint is yellow. Tuberous Begonias make 
a charming bed, and cover the ground so well that no 
companion plants are needed. Fuchsias are excellent for 
filling summer beds ; their growth is graceful, and the 
display is attractive without being garish. One of the 

227 



Round the Year in the Garden 

most satisfactory of summer bedding plants is the Ivy- 
leaved Pelargonium Madame Orousse, of rose-pink colour- 
ing. The plants may be allowed to trail over the surface 
of a bed planted with Heliotrope, the blue Plumbago 
capensis, or some other tall plant having flowers of a 
colour that will harmonise. Of Marguerites the best is the 
double-flowered variety Mrs. Sander ; a satisfactory bed 
may be arranged with this alone, for the plants last in 
bloom throughout the summer. Nothing could be more 
delightful than a bed filled with Snapdragons, especially 
of the charming and distinct shades now available — pink, 
yellow, orange-red, etc. The half-hardy annual Phlox 
Drummondi, obtainable in various shades of colour, fills 
a bed very pleasingly. The best annual for edging is 
the dwarf variety of White Alyssiim ; unlike many 
annuals, it remains in bloom throughout the season and 
keeps compact. Cineraria maritima, with deeply-cut 
grey leaves, is a favourite plant for edging and for 
groundwork. Two pretty trailing plants with grey 
foliage are Lotus iDeliorhynchus and Cerastium, or Snow- 
in-Summer. The Scarlet Sage (Salvia splendens), the 
blue Sage (Salvia patens), and Lantana, with small heads 
of blossom in shades of orange, pink and rose, make 
handsome beds. So, too, do Pentstemon and the light 
yellow Calceolaria amplexicaulis, a plant of more graceful 
growth and greater charm than the common shrubby 
Calceolaria. Of Lantanas the prettiest is salviaefolia. 
A useful edging plant is the old Ageratum, having grey- 
blue flowers ; it remains compact and is in bloom 
throughout the season. 

Plants with Ornamental Leaves. — Among plants 
grown for the beauty of their leaves the Iresine, with 
reddish foliage, is an old favourite ; so, too, is orna- 
mental Beetroot. Abutilon Thompsoni, with leaves of 
yellow, green and white, and Abutilon Savitzii, possess- 
ing pretty green and white leaves, are favourites. 
Albizzia lophantha, of tall graceful growth, with 

228 



June — Flowers and Fragrance 

deeply-cut foliage, and Grevillea robiista, the Austra- 
lian Silky Oak, with equally ornamental leaves, are 
often used. The grey - blue foliage of Eucalyptus 
renders this plant of value for summer bedding. 

One of the showiest plants is Streptosolen (or Brow- 
allia) Jamesoni, which is tall and has brilliant orange- 
coloured blossom. Standards of Fuchsia, Heliotrope, 
Lantana and blue Plumbago are often placed in large 
beds above a groundwork of low-growing plants. The 
effect is showy, though, as with the grouping of most 
tender plants, it is not at all natural. The most 
tasteful beds are those in which the colour scheme is 
simple and not too garish. 

Simple Colour Schemes. — The graceful light yellow 
Calceolaria amplexicaulis looks well above a groundwork 
of grey - blue Ageratum, or the pale mauve - blue Viola 
Maggie Mott. The pink Ivy-leaved Pelargonium forms 
a suitable groundwork for a bed planted with the 
double white Marguerite or Heliotrope. The old, 
fragrant, grey - leaved Southernwood looks particvilarly 
well if the intervening spaces are planted with a 
purple Viola, such as cornuta Papilio or Councillor 
Waters. For a bed filled with blue Lobelia the dwarf 
white Alyssum forms a suitable edging, thus creating 
a simple though attractive colour scheme. One of the 
finest late-summer beds consists of the Summer Cypress 
(Kochia scoparia), a half-hardy annual, in association 
with the orange-coloured and yellow Montbretias. It 
is a mistake to make the soil rich for summer flowers, 
for they grow vigorously but give comparatively little 
bloom. They must be planted firmly. 

Increasing Rock Plants. — Many rock plants are 
readily increased by means of cuttings taken at this 
season ; they form roots without difficulty if inserted in 
pots or boxes of light sandy soil placed in a frame. The 
following, among others, may be propagated in this way : 
Arabis, Alyssum, Evergreen Candytuft, dwarf Phlox, 

229 



Round the Year in the Garden 

Pinks, creeping Gypsophila, Aubrietia, Viola, Silver and 
Mossy Saxifrages. Mossy Saxifrages are also easily in- 
creased by division ; if the divided portions are planted on 
a shady border they soon form roots. Seeds of many kinds 
may still be sown ; the seedlings will make useful plants 
by next year. Especially easy from seed are Campanula, 
Poppy, Viola, Aubrietia, Erigeron, Pinks, Primulas in 
great variety, Saponaria, Erinus and so on. Some of the 
vigorous plants, such as Aubrietia, Arabis and Alyssum, 
are apt to become untidy and straggling as the years 
pass, but if, as soon as the flowers are over, the shoots are 
cut back fresh growths will develop from the centre of 
the plants, which again become tufted and compact. 

The Sun Rose- — Among low-growing summer-flower- 
ing shrubs few surpass in beauty and profusion of 
blossom the Sun Rose, or Helianthemum. The numerous 
varieties are invaluable for the rock garden, or for grouping 
along the margin of the shrubbery. They must have a 
sunny place, though they are happy in the poorest soil. 
The varieties of the common Sun Rose (Helianthemum 
vulgare) are chiefly grown, and many have brilliantly 
coloured flowers. . A few distinct named sorts are Fireball, 
orange. Red Dragon, red, sulphureum, pale yellow, and 
Yellow Standard, yellow. All these are shrubby ever- 
greens. Quite a distinct kind is Helianthemum tuberaria, 
a choice herbaceous perennial which bears a profusion of 
yellow blossom. It is more difficult to grow than the 
others named, and needs well-drained soil and a warm 
position in the rock garden. Seeds of the Sun Roses, if 
sown now in boxes of light soil placed in a frame, will 
soon germinate, and the seedlings will develop into ex- 
cellent plants next year. 

The Rock Rose, or Cistus, is a delightful shrub for 
those possessing warm, light soil, although a few kinds are 
hardy enough for gardens ordinarily circumstanced. One 
of the most attractive is the low-growing Cistus floren- 
tinus, most suitable for the rockery. In June it becomes 

230 



June — Flowers and Fragrance 

smothered in comparatively large white flowers. The 
hardiest of the tall kinds, and one of the most handsome, 
is Cistus laurifolius, having white flowers blotched with 
yellow. Cistus villosus, with greyish leaves and rose- 
purple flowers ; Lorettii, white blotched with crimson ; 
and ladaniferus, white with reddish blotch, are other 
handsome kinds that form big bushes. It is not a 
difficult matter to increase the Rock Roses by means of 
cuttings taken in July ; they are put in pots of light soil 
in a frame, which must be kept closed for a few weeks. 

Brompton Stocks have long been favourites in 
amateurs' gardens, and especially in cottage gardens ; in 
early summer they provide a most welcome show of 
blossom. Seeds ought now to be sown on a border of 
prepared soil. If kept moist and shaded they will soon 
germinate, and subsequently the seedlings are transplanted 
8 or 9 inches apart. In September or early October they 
are planted out in the beds and borders. On cold, heavy 
soil Brompton Stocks are sometimes disappointing, because 
they fail to pass through the winter successfully ; when 
losses are feared it is wise to pot the plants in autumn, 
keep them in a frame during winter, and plant out of 
doors in early spring. But if a sheltered spot is chosen 
and the soil is lightened, if necessary by mixing in sand, 
ashes or road scrapings, and leaf soil, they may usually 
be trusted to pass through the bad weather safely. 

In the Greenhouse 

Sowing Seeds. — Cineraria, Calceolaria and Primula 
may be raised now to provide a succession of flowering 
plants next year. Seeds are sown thinly in pans of light, 
sifted soil, placed in a cool frame ; a slight scattering 
of silver sand only is given as a covering. The frame 
must be shaded from sunshine, and when water is neces- 
sary it is applied by immersing the seed-pots to the rim 
in a bowl of water. 

231 



Round the Year in the Garden 

Show and Fancy Pelargoniums are beautiful summer- 
flowering greenhouse plants, though few amateurs seem 
to grow them. They are now fast coming into bloom and 
must be kept cool and shaded to preserve their beauty as 
long as possible. They are increased by means of cuttings, 
inserted now in pots of light soil, placed in a frame ; the 
cuttings are chosen from growths that show no signs of 
flowering. 

Various shrubs that were grown in pots for the embel- 
lishment of the greenhouse in spring ought now to be 
placed out of doors, the pots plunged to the rims in ashes. 
The soil must be kept continually moist by timely water- 
ing. In the case of pot Roses intended to be forced into 
bloom early next winter some measure of rest for a few 
w^eeks is necessary. This is not given by withholding 
water altogether, but by gradually diminishing the supply, 
though continuing to syringe the plants freely during 
dry weather. 

Freesias and Lachenalias in pots on the greenhouse 
shelf, or in a sunny frame, need no more water now, the 
leaves and stems having died down. They should be ex- 
posed to full sunshine, so that the bulbs may become well 
ripened. 

Geraniums for winter flowering should now be potted 
in 6-inch pots, in which they will bloom ; until September 
they remain in an airy frame. The same remarks apply 
to the scarlet Salvia, Perpetual Carnations and winter- 
flowering Begonias, though good plants of the latter may 
be grown in 5-inch pots. 

Cuttings of many greenhouse plants that were rooted 
in late spring now need to be potted singly in small pots, 
such, for example, as Coleus, Poinsettia (so greatly valued 
for its leafy scarlet bracts) and Bouvardia. Lilies in pots 
must be kept perfectly cool ; in fact, all greenhouse plants 
should be shaded from bright sunshine at this season. 
Primulas, Cinerarias and Calceolarias that were sown in 
May are now ready to be potted singly in small pots; 

232 



June — Flowers and Fragrance 

they must be kept in a cool and airy frame. Persian 
Cyclamen in small pots may now be repotted in those 5 
or 6 inches in diameter, in which they will bloom in 
winter and spring. These plants thrive best in an airy 
and cool frame, preferably on a base of ashes. 

An attractive plant suitable for those possessing a 
large conservatory or greenhouse is Humea elegans. It is 
grown largely for the sake of its fragrant leaves, though 
very ornamental when in bloom. The loose sprays of small, 
reddish-brown flowers render the plants especially grace- 
ful. The Humea is often used for filling summer beds in the 
flower garden. Seeds are sown now in pots in a frame, 
and the seedlings are repotted as becomes necessary ; they 
pass the winter in 4-inch pots, and in spring are repotted 
into those 7 or even 8 inches wide. 

Greenhouse Climbing Plants usually make vigorou 
growth at this season, and unless care is taken to thin out 
and regulate the shoots they are liable to become a hope- 
less tangle. Those for which there is not room ought to 
be cut out, together with others that are weakly. Only 
by allowing each shoot sufficient room for its proper de- 
velopment can climbers be kept healthy and presentable. 

Celsia cretica, or Cretan Mullein, is a handsome plant 
for the greenhouse, and as its cultivation offers no difficulty 
it ought to be more generally grown by amateurs. It 
produces a leafy stem some four feet or more high, and 
the upper portion bears an abundance of Mullein-like 
yellow flowers ; if the stem is " stopped" two or three others 
are produced, and the plant is then naturally less tall, 
though perhaps more generally useful. Seeds are sown 
now, in pots of light soil in a frame. The seedlings are 
potted singly in small pots, and in autumn are placed in 
those 5 or 6 inches wide, in which they will bloom. During 
the winter a temperature of from 50° to 55° is suitable. 

Perpetual Carnations should be " stopped " for the 
last time during June. If the points of the growths are 
pinched out, the effect is to induce the formation of other 

233 



Round the Year in the Garden 

shoots, and well-branched plants result. If the shoots are 
"stopped" later than this month the Carnations will 
not bloom until spring. 

In the Fruit Garden 

One of the chief tasks in the out-of-door fruit garden is 
that of thinning the fruits of Apple, Peai", Apricot, Peach, 
and others, while it is advantageous to mulch the soil 
above the roots of heavily-laden trees Avith decayed 
manure. Watering is an important work at this time of 
year, and especial attention should be paid to trees planted 
against a wall. The young shoots on Peach and Nectarine 
trees often produce side growths ; these are of no value 
and ought to be cut out. The Raspberry, Blackberry and 
Loganberry usually bear fresh stems in such numbers that 
all cannot be accommodated conveniently ; the weakest of 
them may now be cut out. Early in the month clean 
straw should be laid among Strawberry plants for the 
purpose of keeping the fruits clean as they ripen. In 
gathering green Gooseberries it is advisable to do so 
systematically, with the object of leaving the remaining 
fruits, not in bunches, but at more or less regular intervals 
over the whole bush. Fruit trees on walls should be 
syringed or sprayed with the hose in the evening of a hot 
day ; not only does this encourage growth, but it assists in 
preventing the spread of red spider and thrips. The 
shoots of Peach, Nectarine, Plum, Morello Cherry, and of 
other trees on walls ought to be tied loosely to the wall or 
trellis alongside older branches which they will supplant 
later on. Aphis frequently attacks the tips of the growths 
of Cherry, Plum, Pear and other wall trees, and should be 
destroyed by insecticides early in the season, otherwise 
the trees may suffer serious harm. 

Fruit Trees under Glass.— Unless ventilation is 
practised carefully at this season, the leaves and fruits of 
Vines and other fruit trees under glass are liable to be 

234 




A TERRACE ROCKERY— THIS. THOUGH LACKING IN NATURAL 
CHARM, IS WELL SUITED TO ALPINE PLANTS 




A ROCKKRY FORMED BY ARRANGING LARGE BOULDERS IN 
IRREGULAR GROUPS 




NORTH AMERICAN TRUMPET FLOWEK (BIGNONIA— 
or TECOMA— RADICANS) 

(Orange red) 



June — Flowers and Fragrance 

"scorched." The ventilators must be opened slightly 
quite early in the morning, the amount of air being 
increased as the day advances and decreased towards 
evening. In growing fruits in an unheated greenhouse it 
is an excellent plan to leave the top ventilator partly open 
throughout the night. Frequent attention to thinning 
the fruits is necessary, while the shoots of Vine, Melon, 
and Cucumber must be "stopped" and tied down as is 
required. The side shoots that develop on Tomato plants 
should be cut off or rubbed out and the plants must be 
kept perfectly cool. 

In the Kitchen Garden 

One of the most important tasks of this month in 
the kitchen garden is that of planting out the various 
crops of winter greens that were raised from seed in 
April. The best land is that which is firm, though not 
containing fresh manure. The chief object is to ensure 
firm and sturdy growth that will withstand cold well, 
and this is not possible by planting in loose, freshly- 
manured ground. If the seedlings are not yet large 
enough to be planted finally, they ought to be trans- 
planted from the seed bed, so that they may develop 
sturdily. 

Tomatoes now in 5-inch pots, and having already 
one bunch of fruits, should be put out at the foot of 
a warm wall or fence, or even in the open garden. In 
the event of the summer being wet and dull the latter 
place may prove unsatisfactory. All side shoots must 
be rubbed ovit, and staking will need attention. Egg- 
plant, or Aubergine, and Indian Corn, or Maize, raised 
from seed sown in warmth may now also be planted 
out. The latter crop needs good soil and a fairly 
sheltered position, and must be watered very freely in 
dry weather. Aubergine, too, ought to be planted on 
a warm border. 

235 



Round the Year in the Garden 

Leeks and Celery for the main crop ought now to 
be planted, the latter in trenches prepared as already 
described, the former also in trenches if the finest 
produce is required. Alternatively Leeks may be 
planted in holes of such a depth that the tops of the 
seedlings are on a level with the ground surface. Celery 
is usually planted in a double row in a trench about 
2 feet wide, the plants being 9 or 10 inches apart. 

A crop of late Peas is obtained by sowing early in 
June. The ground must be rich, and it is wise to sow 
in a shallow trench to facilitate watering, for it is 
necessary to keep the plants continually moist at the 
root. Choose an early variety. 

Sow Endive Winter Curled in shallow drills and 
finally plant out 10 or 12 inches apart. Sow Turnips 
and Carrots, choosing, of the former, Little Marvel, 
and of the latter. Early Nantes. Sow Parsley to ensure 
a crop during winter, and continue to sow both Cabbage 
and Cos Lettuce, Spinach and Radish, choosing a partly- 
shaded position. Plant out Cabbage and Cauliflower 
as the seedlings become ready. When planting out 
seedlings it is advisable to choose showery weather for 
the work, for they then become established all the 
more quickly. Asparagus ought not to be cut after 
about the middle of this month, or the plants will be 
weakened and the next year's crop prejudiced. 



236 



JULY 

High Summer 

JULY is the month of Roses, Carnations, Sweet Peas, 
Canterbury Bells, and favourite border flowers gener- 
ally ; the garden pageant is at the zenith of its beauty. 
From his cool retreat, " under the shady roof of branching 
Elm," the gardener shovild spare odd moments in which to 
attend to the most pressing needs of the flowers — the 
removal of faded blooms, occasional staking and tying, 
hoeing and watering. Otherwise, he may enjoy to the 
full the fair creation of his labour of love, and, for the 
nonce, endeavour, in his appreciation of the enchanting 
present, to forget the necessity of making preparation for 
the future. 

Among the Hardy Flowers 

Layering Border Carnations. — I have always had 
an objection to layering Carnations until most of the 
flowers are over, because, having spent a year in 
growing them, it seems that one ought to be able to 
enjoy their comparatively short season of blossoming 
undisturbed by any thought of preparing for the 
following year's display. It is, however, important 
to make a start some time in July ; if one has a 
considerable number of plants to attend to, layering 
will probably occupy two or three weeks, supposing 
the work to be carried out in spare moments. If it is 
delayed until late in August, as is the practice among 
amateurs generally, the plants are not likely to become 
well rooted by October, and, consequently, do not prove 
so successful the following year. The best results are 

237 



Round the Year in the Garden 

obtained by planting well-rooted layers in early autumn, 
not by keeping the layers in pots throughout the 
Trinter and planting in spring. The Border Carnation 
has come to be regarded as an annual in many 
gardens, though I quite fail to see why it should be 
so treated when the purpose is to grow for garden 
display. Splendid results follow if the best shoots on 
each plant are layered and left to form a clump, 
instead of being taken up for replanting in a fresh 
bed. This is the way to obtain flowers in abundance 
and to see the Border Carnation at its best as a garden 
plant. One may really leave Carnations undisturbed for 
two or three years, even without layering the shoots, 
though after that period of time they become straggling 
and unsightly. There is not much doubt that flowers 
of the finest quality are obtained by replanting the 
rooted layers annually, and most people seem to prefer 
to do this. 

The actual process of layering, though simple, needs 
to be performed with care. If the work is negligently 
carried out many of the layers w^ill fail to root. It is 
not wise to layer all the shoots on a plant; only those 
which are strong and healthy should be selected ; a 
weakly layer is not likely to develop into a vigorous 
plant. The lower leaves having been stripped off, the 
knife is inserted at the side of the stem ; on reaching 
the middle it is turned in an upright direction until it 
has passed through a joint. By means of a proper 
layering pin, or a hairpin, the layer is pegged firmly 
into the soil. The pin is passed over the layer, near 
its base, at the foot of the remaining leaves, and 
pressed into the soil. Care should be taken to keep 
open the slit portion; it is there, and not upon that 
part of the stem still attached to the plant, that roots 
Tvill form. It is a mistake to heap up a mound of 
compost over the layer, for it is with difficulty that 
it can be kept moist in hot weather. It is often better 

238 



July — High Summer 

to remove a little of the border soil immediately around 
the parent plant, and to replace this with the compost 
used for layering, which consists of sifted loam with 
a little leaf soil and sand freely intermixed. If the layers 
are pegged directly into the border it is generally a 
difficult matter to take them up without breaking the 
roots. 

Roses from Cuttings. — The simplest method of raising 
Roses from cuttings is to select portions of shoots that 
have flowered, cut them into pieces 6 or 8 inches long, 
and place them in wide-mouthed bottles of water on the 
greenhouse shelf. In a few weeks roots Avill issue from 
the base of each cutting ; when the roots are about | inch 
long the cuttings are potted separately in small pots of 
light soil plunged to the rim in a slight hotbed, or in fibre 
in a glass-covered box or propagating case. In the course 
of two or three weeks they will be established, and may 
then be grown with the other greenhouse plants. Soon 
they will be ready for potting in 5 -inch pots, in which they 
remain throughout the winter, in readiness for planting 
out of doors in spring. In making a cutting the base is 
formed by severing the stem immediately beneath a bud. 

Layering Roses. — This method of propagation is not 
commonly practised, and in view of the ease with which 
Roses may be raised from cuttings it is perhaps scarcely 
worth while. The chief advantage is that one at once 
gets a grown plant. Layering is practised with vigorous 
Roses, especially climbing varieties, Penzance Briars and 
some of the old garden kinds. The shoot or branch to be 
layered should be of the current year's growth; it is notched, 
at a point most conveniently brought to the ground, in 
the same way as in the prepai'ation of a Carnation layer. 
The knife is inserted 1 inch or so beneath a bud or joint, 
and when the centre of the stem is reached the cut is 
continued in an upright direction, until it has passed 
through the joint. A small stone is often placed in the 
slit to keep it open. The branch is then made secure in 

239 



Round the Year in the Garden 

the soil, the slit portion being pegged down firmly and 
covered with sandy compost. The branch may be suffi- 
ciently rooted for lifting by March, though it is really 
better to leave it undisturbed until the following autumn. 

Pruning Climbing Roses. — Most climbing Roses bear 
the finest flowers upon shoots of the previous summer's 
growth, and the gardener's object should be to cut out 
the older stems that have already flowered, to make room 
for the fresh ones. This work ought to be undertaken late 
in July or early in August. It is not possible to treat all 
climbing Roses alike. Some varieties produce fresh stems 
so freely that all the old ones may be cut out ; this is the 
case with many of the Dorothy Perkins type of Rose. 
When fresh stems from the base are f ewin number, discrim- 
ination as to which, if any, shall be cut out is essential. 
It often happens that only the upper part of an old stem 
can be removed, because a new shoot originates, not at its 
base, but some distance above. If, however, the object is 
kept in view to cut out the old and make way for the 
new, the work will be found simple. The best way of 
carrying out summer pruning is to detach all stems and 
place them on the ground ; the useless stems are then 
easily i-emoved. An opportunity is thus given to destroy 
old ties, which often harbour insects, and to replace them 
with fresh ones, while the posts can be renewed if this is 
necessary. Only in this way can the work be carried out 
really satisfactorily. It is not, however, always possible, 
owing perhaps to the large size of the Rose, or for other 
reasons. 

Endeavour should be made to prolong the beauty of 
the Roses, and to ensure a good display again in late 
summer and autumn. The surface of the beds must be 
hoed once or twice a w^eek, and weekly applications of 
guano or some other quick-acting fertiliser are beneficial. 
When a bloom has faded the stem ought to be shortened 
by about one-third ; the result is to force the development 
of other sturdy growths that will in due course bear 

240 



July — High Summer 

blossom. Many of the modern Roses are practically per- 
petual flowering, if care is taken to encourage the growth 
of fresh shoots. Numerous stems arise from the base of 
climbing Roses at this season, and it is often necessary to 
remove some of the weakest ; the majority should be tied 
to the supports, for they will in due course supplant 
those now in bloom. 

Saving Seeds.— The practice of saving seeds from 
home-grown plants is particularly interesting, and it has 
an advantage. The seeds are fresh, and are almost certain 
to germinate. Practically all seeds deteriorate by being 
kept, though some to such a slight extent that a storage 
of a few months makes very little if any difference to 
their germinating power. In raising certain hardy plants, 
such, for example, as Anemone, Primula, Saxifrage, 
Gentian and others, it is important to sow the seeds 
as soon as they are ripe ; otherwise germination may 
prove to be a long process. It is not uncommon for seeds 
of such flowers to lie dormant for a year or more after 
being soAvn. If the seeds are gathered now, dried, and 
sown at once, they are likely to sprout far more quickly. 
The flowers of many early rock plants are now over, and 
careful search will reveal the presence of numerous seed 
pods. When they commence to burst it may be known 
that the seed is ready to gather. After a few days on a 
sunny shelf in the greenhouse it should be sown in pots 
or pans of sandy soil in a cool and shady frame. Such 
plants as Mossy and Silvery Saxifrage, Viola gracilis. 
Poppies, Aubrietia, Alyssum, Saponaria, blue and yellow 
Flax, Pinks, Primulas and many others are well worth 
raising from home-saved seed ; an excellent lot of plants 
will be available for permanent planting next spring. It 
is as well to keep the seedlings in a frame thoughout the 
winter. 

The Madonna Lily (Lilium candidum) is one of the 
most charming old-world flowers, and no garden ought 
to be without it. The bulbs are often on sale in autumn, 
Q 241 



Round the Year in the Garden 

and even in winter and spring, but the correct time to 
plant is late in July or in August. If this is done the 
bulbs make a loose tuft of leaves before autumn, and are 
then almost certain to blossom the following summer. If 
planting is postponed until autumn or winter there is 
little or no chance of the bulbs flowering the next year. 
This Lily forms roots from the bulb only, and not from 
the base of the stem, so deep planting is not necessary. 
The bulbs are put at such a depth that there is about 
3 inches of soil above them. The Madonna Lily never 
looks better, I think, than when j)lanted beneath a pergola 
that is not densely covered, and especially a pergola that 
is planted with June-flowering Roses. 

The Orange Lily (Lilium croceum), with large, 
showy, orange-coloured blooms, ought to be planted this 
month or next, and the same may be said of the brilliant 
varieties of Lilium elegans. None of these is stem- 
rooting, and the bulbs are put at the same depth as already 
recommended. The Madonna Lily is often the victim of a 
disease called Botrytis cinerea, which, vmless arrested, 
causes the death of the plant. The leaves first show 
greyish streaks and subsequently the stems collapse. A 
wise precaution at planting time is to place the bulbs in a 
bag of powdered sulphur and shake them, so that the 
sulphur may get among the scales of the bulbs. If this 
measure is followed in late spring by spraying with weak 
Bordeaux mixture the disease is less likely to make an 
appearance. Fresh bulbs ought on no account to be 
planted in the same place as that from which diseased 
ones were removed. 

Planting Early Bulbs. — Few amateurs think of plant- 
ing bulbs in summer, yet this is the correct time to put in 
those of early flowers such as Snowdrop, Crocus, Winter 
Aconite, Bulbous Iris, Squill and others. It is true that 
this task may be deferred until September, or even later, 
and the results still be passably good, but the sooner the 
bulbs are planted after late July the finer will be the 

242 



July — High Summer 

flowers. The bulbous Irises are particularly charming 
plants, although the roots are rather expensive. Yet 
everyone ought to plant a few of such, for example, as 
reticulata, which has purple, fragrant blooms ; persica, of 
which the flowers are blue, white and yellow ; Krelagei, 
purple ; and Danfordiae, yellow. The Scorpion Iris (alata) 
flowers in mid-winter and is, in common with all those 
named, delightful either for pots in the cold greenhouse 
or for planting on a warm, sheltered border. The bulbs 
must have well-drained ground and be covered with 
about 2 inches of soil. The Spring Snowflake (Leucojum 
vernum) is an attractive flower of spring, with white 
drooping blooms tipped with green. It is charming on 
the rockery or in sheltered positions in the flower garden. 
The roots or corms of spring-flowering, hardy Cyclamen 
ought to be planted this month. None is more attractive 
than Cyclamen Coum, with little rosy-purple flowers. 
Others are Atkinsii, ibericum, and latest of all to bloom, 
repandum. Among the early Anemones the two loveliest 
are the Grecian Anemone blanda and the Apennine 
Windflower (Anemone apennina), both blue flowered. 
They flourish in light, leafy soil in partial shade; the 
Apennine Windflower may be naturalised in semi-wild 
portions of the garden, beneath the shade of trees. They, 
in company with the Cyclamen, look particularly well 
among ferns. The Cyclamens like soil containing lime 
rubble, and should not be planted deeply. The Mound at 
Kew, which is planted with large trees, is a delightful 
spot in spring and early summer; hardy Cyclamen, 
Anemones, Triteleia (the Spring Star flower), Snowdrops, 
Daffodils, and Lilies find a congenial home there, together 
with hardy ferns. They provide a succession of flowers 
from earliest spring until summer, and no lover of gardens 
should fail to pay a visit there. 

Lifting Bulbs. — Spring-flowering bulbs such as 
Hyacinth, Daffodil and Tulip may now be lifted, as the 
foliage has died down. This provides an opportunity of 

243 



Round the Year in the Garden 

removing the offsets or small bulbs and grading them 
into their various sizes ; those which are likely to bloom 
next year should be kept together. The bulbs are cleaned, 
dried and stored in paper bags until early autumn, when 
they may be replanted. The offsets ought to be put on a 
reserve border, there to remain until they reach flowering 
size. It is not necessary, of course, to disturb Daffodils, 
for they increase in size and beauty year after year : early- 
flowering Tulips and Hyacinths are not so good in succeed- 
ing years, though they continue to flower and are quite 
useful for planting in shrubbery borders and in odd 
corners where quality of bloom is not the chief con- 
sideration. 

When it is found necessary to lift spring-flowering 
bulbs before the leaves have died they should be taken 
up with as little damage to the roots as possible and be 
replanted in a shallow trench on a reserve plot, there 
to remain until the foliage has faded. 

Autumn Crocuses. — When the autumn Crocuses 
and Meadow Saffrons were in bloom at Hampton 
Court in September a local newspaper announced that 
Crocuses wer& flowering for the second time that year, 
and no doubt the curious went to see them ! Those 
who plant roots now of some of the charming autumn 
kinds that are available will be under no such mis- 
apprehension when the blossoms show through the 
soil in September and October. The bulbs of autumn 
Crocuses and Colchicums, or Meadow Saffrons, may be 
planted in corners in the rock garden, on a grassy 
bank, or in sheltered spots wherever an opportunity 
offers. They are especially welcome, coming, as they 
do, when other flowers are fading. They are indifferent 
to soil, except that which is unusually heavy and ill 
drained, and should be planted about 3 inches deep. 
When putting them in the rock garden it is wise to 
place them where the flowers will be protected from 
soil splashed up by rain, as, for example, among or near 

244 




DECORATIVE CHRYSANTHEMUM BELLE MAUVE. AN EXCELLENT 
SEPTEMBER-FLOWERING VARIETY FOR OUT OF DOORS 



July — High Summer 

a patch of Mossy Saxifrage. One of the best of the 
Autumn Crocuses is speciosus, bearing pale mauve 
flowers ; pulchellus, lavender shade, and zonatus, lilac- 
rose, are other beautiful sorts. The common Meadow 
Saffron (Colchicum autumnale), though not possessing 
the splendour of the larger kinds, is nevertheless one 
of the most attractive. Colchicum speciosum, rose- 
purple, byzantinum, pale mauve, giganteum, lilac, are 
large handsome sorts. The leaves of the Colchicums, 
which appear after the flowers, are large, and this 
should not be forgotten at planting time ; if the roots 
are iDut near choice alpines in the rock garden these 
may be ruined. 

Winter Crocuses. — Some of the winter - flowering 
Crocuses are beautiful flowers, but as they open when 
bad weather is to be expected, means are taken to 
give them some protection. But in nooks in the rock 
garden, or on a sheltered sunny border, it is worth 
while having a few groups ; a handlight or bell glass 
provides all the shelter that is required. They are also 
delightful for pots in the cold greenhouse. The corms 
should be potted now and kept in a shaded frame, or 
some other cool spot, for several weeks, so that roots 
may form freely. A few especially worthy of mention 
are Cloth of Gold, or susianus, golden yellow; Sieberi, 
pale mauve ; chrysanthus, yellow ; Imperati, mauve and 
fawn ; and biflonis, white marked with violet. 

Shrubs from Cuttings. — The present is an excellent 
time to increase various shrubs by means of cuttings. 
These are taken from "half -ripe wood," that is to say, 
from growths which are moderately firm and brownish 
in colour. Such shoots are usually obtained from 
branches that have borne blossoms. The ordinary 
method of preparing a cutting is followed, the latter 
being severed immediately beneath a bud or joint. It 
is often possible to take off a little piece of the older 
branch when the cutting is detached ; the cutting is 

245 



Round the Year in the Garden 

then said to possess a " heel." It is found that cuttings 
with a " heel " of older wood often form roots more 
freely than those cut beneath a bud in the usual way. 
The cuttings are inserted in pots or boxes of sandy 
soil placed in a frame, which must be kept closed for 
a few weeks to induce the formation of roots. If the 
pots are plunged to the rims in a bed of ashes so much 
the better. No watering is necessary until roots have 
developed, providing the cuttings are syringed daily 
in bright weather. The frame must be shaded during 
sunshine, and to disperse moisture a little air is admitted 
for half an hour or so each morning. A few shrubs 
that are readily increased in this way are Mock Orange 
(Philadelphus), Bush Honeysvickle (Weigela), Rose, 
Spiraea, Golden Bell (Forsythia), and, of Evergreens, 
Aucuba, Privet, Ivy and others. 

In the Greenhouse 

Potting Freesias. — The Freesia is one of the most 
precious flowers for the greenhouse in winter. Bulbs 
potted now will be in bloom soon after Christmas, and by 
potting others at intervals of a week or two a prolonged 
display may be maintained. The Freesia is quite easy to 
grow in a greenhouse in which the temperature does not 
fall below 45° or 50°. The bulbs are placed about 1 inch 
apart in 5 -inch pots ; there should be ^ inch or so of soil 
above them. The best compost consists of loam with 
which some leaf soil and sand are mixed ; if a little dried 
cow manure is available this, after being rubbed through 
a sieve, is excellent for enriching the compost. The pots 
of bulbs are placed in a cold frame, and are watered and 
shaded. They must be kept cool and the soil moist, 
though not at all saturated. In six weeks or so growth 
will be visible and the plants must be gradually inured to 
fvill light. Soon afterwards they are removed to the 
greenhouse, there to remain until they come into bloom. 

246 



July — High Summer 

The growths are slender and need support. The simplest 
way of affording this is to place a few sticks round the 
margin of the flower-pots and to pass raffia round the 
sticks. No attempt must be made to force the plants 
into bloom or they may not flower at all. A temperature 
at night of 50° is high enough ; this will of course increase 
naturally during the day, even when air is admitted, as it 
must be, quite freely, in favourable weather. The secrets 
of success are to give water rather sparingly until the pots 
are full of roots and to keep the plants cool. The com- 
monest kinds are Freesia refracta and its white variety 
alba. But during recent years Freesias with blossoms of 
various shades of colour have been obtained, and some of 
them are very beautiful. An excellent selection consists 
of Leichtlinii, pale yellow; Amethyst, lavender; Chapmanii, 
yellow ; and Armstrongii, rose. 

The Cape Cowslip, or Lachenalia, is a spring-flower- 
ing bulb which has attractive, mottled leaves and spikes 
of narrow, tube-shaped flowers, chiefly of red and yellow 
colouring. It is of simple cultivation. The bulbs are 
potted during July or early in August, in loamy soil with 
which a little leaf mould and sand are mixed ; they are 
placed from 1 to 2 inches apart, and are covered by about 
I inch of soil. The pots of bulbs are watered and placed 
in a shaded frame, there to remain for six weeks or so, 
until, in fact, signs of growth are apparent. The plants 
are then gradually exposed to full light, and in September 
are placed on a shelf in the greenhouse. They ought to 
be fairly near the glass, say within 12 or 18 inches. The 
Lachenalia is almost hardy and may be grown in an 
unheated greenhouse ; so, too, may the Freesia, though 
both really do better in a minimum temperature of about 
50°. 

The Scarborough Lily (Vallota purpurea) is a great 
favourite with amateurs, who usually grow it in a sunny 
window. Complaints are sometimes made that it does not 
bloom freely, and these may often be traced to the fact 

247 



Round the Year in the Garden 

that the plant is given no rest. At this season it is advis- 
able to keep the soil rather dry for a few weeks ; water 
must not be withheld altogether, but should only be given 
when the soil is really dry. If watering is resumed at the 
end of three weeks or so the flower stems soon aiDpear. 
The leaves of the Vallota are evergreen, and watering 
must be continued during winter, though the soil is then 
to be kept only modei'ately moist. 

Early Bulbs. — A few potfuls of bulbs in bloom in the 
greenhouse early in the New Year are always welcome, 
and there is no difficulty in the matter, providing the 
bulbs are potted in August or during the first two weeks 
of September. The three chief kinds are Roman Hyacinth, 
Paper White Narcissus and Due Van Thol Tulip. They 
are potted in 5- or 6-inch pots, and placed beneath ashes 
out of doors, or in a cool and shady frame for 6 or 8 weeks. 
At the end of that time the young shoots are gradually ex- 
posed to light, and the plants are placed in the greenhouse. 
The temperature ought not to be higher than 50° until 
the flowers show ; it may then be increased if it is desired 
to have the blooms early. A soil composed of loam, with 
a little leaf soil, and a free supply of sand intermixed, suits 
them well. When potting bulbs it is essential not to 
make the soil very firm beneath them, or, when roots 
form, the bulbs are pushed out of the pots. 

In the Fruit Garden 

Layering Strawberries.— The Strawberry is one of 
the most luscious of hardy fruits and is of the easiest cul- 
tivation. That is not to say that haphazard methods will 
succeed, for the opposite is the case. Bu^t if a few 
essential details are attended to Strawberry growing 
offers no difficulty. It is of importance to commence layer- 
ing early in July, so that strong plants may be available 
for permanent planting in September. The layers are 
the little plants that form on stalk-like growths proceed- 

248 



July — High Summer 

ing from the old plants. Quite a large number of layers 
may be obtained from one plant, though it is not advis- 
able to take them all. It is preferable to layer a few from 
each, rather than a large number from one plant. The 
layers nearest the old plants are usually stronger than 
those fartiher along the stalk, and they should be chosen, all 
others on the same stalk being cut off. If the Strawberries 
are intended for cultivation in pots under glass it is best 
to layer each one in a small pot filled with loamy soil, and 
plunged in the ground to its rim. Even if the object is to 
make a bed out of doors, there is no better method than 
this, though less labour is occasioned by layering in pieces of 
turf or directly in the ground after this has been stirred. 
The layer is fixed in the soil by means of a small wooden 
peg placed over the stalk as close as possible to the layer 
to keep the latter firm. If the soil is kept moist roots 
will form quickly. A certain number of layers will be 
found to be " blind " ; that is to say, with defective centre 
— the firm crown or heart is wanting. Such as these ought 
on no account to be layered, for they will not produce 
flowers. During hot weather the layers should be watered 
at least once every day. If the Strawberry bed is planted 
early in September there will be a good crop of fine fruits 
the following year, but if planting is delayed until late 
autumn the first year's crop will be of far less value. 

Growers reckon to gather three crops from Strawberry 
plants, though the fruits of the third season are usually 
small, and of greater value for preserving than for dessert. 
An excellent plan is to put the plants 1 foot apart in rows 
2 feet from each other. After the first crop is gathered 
alternate plants in the rows are taken up, leaving all at 
2 feet apart. By this means a bigger crop is obtained the 
first year. There are innumerable varieties of the Straw- 
berry. One of the chief favourites is Royal Sovereign, 
and if not of the finest flavour, it is particularly satis- 
factory so far as growth and cropping are concerned. Sir 
Joseph Paxton is a reliable variety ; Dr. Hogg, President 

2\9 



Round the Year in the Garden 

and Countess are also to be recommended. British Queen 
is considered to be one of the best-flavoured varieties, 
though it is not so easily grown as many others. Waterloo 
is a splendid late Strawberry. Among the new varieties 
King George is good. Lou.is Gauthier is a pale blush- 
coloured sort of good flavour. 

Loganberry. — Probably no fruit has achieved so wide 
a popularity in such a short time as the Loganberry, and 
the reasons are not far to seek. It is of the simplest cul- 
tivation, and invariably bears an abundant crop. The 
finest fruits are borne on stems of the previous summer, 
and pruning should be carried out as soon as the crop is 
gathered. The old stems, those that have fruited, are 
then cut out and the fresh growths tied to the supports 
to replace them. The Loganberry is most conveniently 
trained to a rough trellis, or may be allowed to ramble over 
a fence, arch or arbour. In any case it must be allowed 
plenty of space, for it is very vigorous. 

Other Berried Fruits.— During recent years many 
new berried fruits have been introduced, all of which 
reqviire the same treatment as the Loganberry. Among 
them are the Lowberry, Hailshamberry and Laxtonberry, 
and each is claimed to be superior to the Loganberry. 
One of the finest of berried fruits is the Parsley-leaved 
Blackberry. It has attractive, deeply-cut leaves and 
without fail bears an enormous crop of large and 
delicious Blackberries. These plants thrive in ordinary 
soil, preferably in a sunny spot, though fairly satisfac- 
torily in partial shade, and shovild be pruned at this 
season or as soon as the crop is gathered. They, in common 
with all hardy fruit trees, are best planted in October or 
November. 

Summer Pruning is an important task to be carried 
out in Jvily. It consists of "stopping" side shoots {i.e. 
pinching off the points) on the main branches. The usual 
plan is to cut off each side shoot or lateral immediately 
above the sixth leaf, not counting the small basal leaves. 

250 



July — High Summer 

Subsequently other growths, called sub - laterals, will 
form ; they must be " stopped " as soon as two leaves have 
formed. Apples, Pears, Plums, Sweet Cherries, Apricots, 
and Figs benefit by summer pruning, as well as Red and 
White Currants and Gooseberries. 

In the Kitchen Garden 

Winter greens ought to be planted in permanent 
quarters as the seedlings become ready. It is important to 
allow them plenty of room ; the vigorous sorts must be 
quite 2 feet apart. If planting has to be done during dry 
weather the seedlings should be watered as becomes ne- 
cessary. Early Potatoes are ready to be lifted, and winter 
greens may well be planted on the vacant ground. Carrot, 
Lettuce, Turnip, Spinach and Radish should be sown to 
provide successional supplies if these are required. 
Prickly Spinach is sown now to ensure a supply for winter ; 
from a sowing now Snowball Turnip will be available for 
winter use. Towards the end of the month seeds of Spring 
Cabbage are sown. If sown before that time the plants 
are likely to run to seed instead of forming hearts. Good 
varieties are Ellam's Early and Flower of Spring. 

It is advisable to spray Potatoes to prevent attack by 
the Potato disease. Bordeaux Mixture is the best wash, 
and should be vised fortnightly for the next month or six 
weeks. The Bordeaux Mixture is made by mixing 3 lb. 
of sulphate of copper and 1^ lb. of quicklime in 25 gallons 
of water. Peas and Beans must be staked as support 
becomes necessary. Nothing is more convenient than the 
ordinary Pea or Bean sticks, though it is possible to dis- 
pense with them by placing tall stakes at intervals along 
the rows and attaching strings to these. 



2^1 



AUGUST 

The Gardener's Holiday 

THE practice of gardening necessitates timely and 
careful anticipation; only by looking well ahead 
can one hope to achieve success. Even while the garden 
is gay with summer bloom preparations must be made 
for the flowers of winter. So many failures may be 
traced to a tardy beginning. Procrastination in the 
fulfilment of gardening tasks invariably leads to dis- 
appointment and to the loss of much of that pleasur- 
able anticipation which is one of the delights of flowei 
growing. 

Among the Hardy Flowers 

The Hydrangea is a great favourite with amateurs, 
especially for growing in pots, though in southern and 
many western gardens it is sufficiently hardy for planting 
out of doors. Perhaps it never looks better than when 
grown in a large pot or tub placed on the garden terrace, 
or at the top of a flight of garden steps. A well-grown 
plant, bearing numerous heads of pink or blue blossoms, 
is very handsome. Those who wish to propagate the 
Hydrangea should take cuttings now, choosing them from 
flowerless growths ; they are severed beneath a joint 
about 3 inches from the apex, and are inserted singly in 
small pots filled with sandy soil. The pots are placed in 
a frame, kept closed for a few weeks. During winter the 
rooted cuttings are kept in a frame or greenhouse, and in 
spring, or in early autumn if well rooted, are repotted in 
5 -inch flower-pots. In due course most of them will pro- 

252 



August — The Gardener's Holiday 

duce oue head of bloom, which may be considerably in- 
creased in size by watering weekly with liquid manure, or 
artificial fertiliser. 

Amateurs usually prefer to grow a large plant which 
will produce many blooms, rather than a small plant 
carrying one large head of flowers. With the former 
object in view the top of the rooted cutting is taken off in 
spring to cause side shoots to develop, and during summer 
these in turn may be stopped to encourage the develop- 
ment of fui"ther branches. Such plants may be expected 
to bloom the following year. 

Pruning Hydrangea. — The pruning of established 
Hydrangeas appears to be imperfectly understood by 
amateurs, and it is of some importance, since incorrect 
pruning may imperil the display. When a plant gets 
bare at the base, and unshapely, one season's bloom must 
be sacrificed in order to obtain a presentable plant, which 
can be done only by cutting back the shoots in spring. 
The fresh growths that follow will effect a great improve- 
ment in the shape and general health of the shrub, and 
may be expected to bloom the following year. Of regular 
pruning the Hydrangea needs little. In autumn, when 
the plants have finished blossoming, weak and obviously 
worthless shoots should be cut out, and in spring the re- 
maining ones may be shortened slightly, if that seems 
necessary. One of the most important points in growing 
Hydrangea is to keep the plants always cool, and, during 
summer, to expose them freely to air and sunshine so that 
the shoots may become well ripened. 

The Panicled Hydrangea (paniculata), which bears 
large pyramid-shaped heads of cream-white bloom in 
late summer, needs different treatment. It is grown 
out of doors, and a group of plants forms a handsome 
display in the garden. In February or early March the 
shoots of last year's growth are cut back to within 2 
or 3 inches of their base if really fine heads of bloom are 
desired. 

253 



Round the Year in the Garden 

The Climbing Hydrangea (petiolaris) is a valuable 
shrub. It will thrive on a wall facing east or north 
and clings like Ivy, by means of aerial roots, though 
the branches need a little support at first. The 
bunches of white flowers, which open in summer, are 
attractive. 

Seaside Gardens. — If there is one possession more 
than another of which one is disposed to envy owners 
of seaside gardens it is, I think, their hedges. The 
commonest hedge plant in gardens by the sea is the 
Japanese Euonymus, of which there are varieties with 
attractively variegated leaves. One is envious in this 
case, not so much of the shrub as of the way in which 
it thrives. In inland gardens Euonymus falls a prey 
to the grubs of the magpie moth, which appear in 
such numbers that the stems are soon stripped of their 
leaves, unless repressive measures are taken. It is 
curious that the Japanese Euonymus should be so 
badly disfigured by the magpie moth caterpillars while 
other shrubs near by remain untouched. The Monterey 
Cypress (Cupressus macrocarpa) forms a particularly 
handsome hedge ; it is of quick growth and graceful 
form, of attractive green colouring, and bears light 
clipping well. The yellow-leaved variety of this Cypress 
is the most beautiful of all the so-called golden 
conifers. 

Both shrubs will thrive in inland gardens, though 
they dislike the smoky atmosphere of the neighbourhood 
of large towns. 

The common Tamarisk is the most graceful of hedge 
plants used in seaside districts. Though not difficult 
of cultivation inland, it seems to lack freedom away 
from the salt-laden air. The Afghan Tamarisk, called 
Pallasii rosea, forms an admirable lawn shrub, if several 
plants are grouped together in a large bed. The long, 
slender shoots bear racemes of soft pink blossoms in 
late summer. One of the finest shrubs now in bloom, 

254 



August — The Gardener's Holiday 

though having no preference for seaside gardens, is 
Magnolia grandiflora. The large, handsome leaves are 
evergreen, and the big cream-white, cup-shaped blooms 
are delieiously fragrant. Unfortunately this Magnolia 
is not sufficiently hardy for planting in the open, 
except in warm sheltered gardens, but it is an ideal 
wall shrub, preferring a south or west aspect. 

Shrubs with Coloured Foliage. — One may obtain 
showy effects in the garden by grouping certain shrubs 
with coloured foliage ; if the kinds are chosen with 
care the colour scheme holds good from the opening 
of the leaves in spring until they fall in avitumn. If 
planted in good soil they may be left undisturbed for 
years. The only attention they need is an occasional 
pruning to prevent overcrowding, and some care to 
keep the soil free from weeds, and the surface loose 
by hoeing. The principal colours available other than 
green are purple and the so-called gold and silver — all 
of which may be obtained in evergreen and leaf-losing 
kinds. The best golden-leaved evergreens are Golden 
Queen Holly, Elaeagnus Simonii, Tree Ivies and golden- 
leaved Euonymus. Of silvery-leaved shrubs there are 
Silver Queen Holly, Tree Ivy Silver Gem, Cotton 
Lavender (Santolina Chamaecjrparissus) and Elaeagnus 
macrophylla. Among leaf-losing or deciduous shrubs 
rich purple is found in the Japanese Maples, the 
purple-leaved Nut, purple-leaved Barberry and the 
familiar Prunus Pissardi. Yellow or golden leaves are 
possessed by Catalpa bignonioides aurea, Acer Negundo 
aurea (a Maple), the golden-leaved Elderberry, Neillia 
opulifolia lutea and the yellow-leaved Mock Orange. 
Silver is represented by the leaves of the variegated 
Acer Negundo, Atriplex Halimus and Elaeagnus 
augustifolia. 

Late-flowering Shrubs. — Shrubs that bloom towards 
the end of August are welcome, though they may be less 
showy than others that blossom earlier in the year. Of 

255 



Round the Year in the Garden 

tliose that are at their best at this period the St. John's 
Worts, or Hypericums, late Ceanothus and Heaths are 
prominent. But others are worthy of notice. The Syrian 
Mallow (Hibiscus syriacus), for instance, is covered with 
showy single or double flowers, white, blue, purple or red. 
Clerodendron trichotomum, a large bush from China and 
Japan, is another attractive shrub at this time. It grows 
12 or 15 feet high, and is conspicuous by reason of its large 
heart-shaped leaves and flat heads of white flowers, Avhich 
contrast finely with the red calyx lobes. There are 
certain Spiraeas, too, which call for notice, such as japonica, 
salicifolia and Menziesii. Ligustrum Quihoui is a white- 
flowered Privet now in bloom, while a showy red-flowered 
shrub is noticeable in Lespedeza bicolor. Caryopteris 
mastacanthus bears showy blue flowers during late August 
and September, and a companion plant is its white- 
flowered variety candicans. The tubular-flowered Cle- 
matis of the heraclaefolia class is resplendent with blue 
flowers, while various other kinds of Clematis are now in 
bloom. 

A Useful Climber. — One of the most useful of quick 
growing climbing plants is burdened with the name of 
Polygonum baldschuanicum ; it is now in flower for the 
second time this season, and one is reminded of its vakie 
in the garden. It forms long, slender shoots and makes 
an admirable screen in the course of a year or two. It is 
sometimes trained over evergreen trees, and there it looks 
especially well. Its shoots are not sufficiently vigorous to 
do the tree much harm, and against the dark foliage its 
bunches of creamy-white blossom in May, and again in 
late summer, show finely. A native plant, the Traveller's 
Joy (Clematis Vitalba), is equally noteworthy ; it is of most 
rampant growth. It is now in full bloom, though its chief 
attractiveness will not be apparent until the silky fluffy 
fruits have developed. The Virgin's Bower (Clematis 
flammula) is another luxuriant climber beai'ing white, 
sweet-scented flowers at this season. 

256 



August — The Gardener's Holiday 

In the Greenhouse 

Now is the time to sow seeds of various annuals 
for cultivation in pots under glass. They will pro- 
vide a welcome display in spring. Some of the most 
suitable are Mignonette, Clarkia, Schizanthus, Erysimum, 
Salpiglossis, and Winter Stocks. The seeds are sown 
thinly in boxes, and several seedlings are subsequently 
grown in a 5, 6, or 7 -inch pot. Mignonette is best sown 
in the pots in which it will bloom. 

The buds of Chrysanthemums ought to be "taken" 
this month ; the work consists in removing the little 
shoots beneath the buds to be preserved. Freesia, 
Lachenalia, Roman Hyacinth, Paper White Narcissus, 
and Due Van Thol Tulips if potted now will provide 
flowers in winter and early spx'ing. 

In the Kitchen Garden 

In some districts the first fortnight in August is the 
favourite time to sow Cabbage for spring use. It is wise 
to sow late in July, and again the first or second week in 
August, for some of the seedlings may "bolt" to seed. 
Care should be taken to keep the seed-bed moist and to 
transplant the seedlings before they become crowded. 

A further sowing of Prickly Spinach and Lettuce for 
winter supplies may now be made. Of Cos Lettuce the 
Black-seeded Cos is reliable, and of Cabbage varieties All 
the Fear Round. Cauliflower seed sown now will provide 
plants for putting out of doors in April, to ensure an 
early supply. They must be protected during winter or 
be placed in a frame. Mid-season varieties of Potatoes 
are now ready for lifting and will be better out of the 
ground. 

The tops of spring sown Onions which are still green 

should be bent over, to assist in the ripening of the bulbs. 

These are lifted towards the end of the month, and placed 

on a sunny walk or, if the weather is wet, in a frame to dry. 

R 257 



Round the Year in the Garden 

Now is the time to sow seeds of Onions for use early next 
summer. Sow on firm ground in drills 9 or 10 inches 
apart. Giant Rocca is a useful variety. The early crop 
of Celery should be earthed up. Brussels Sprouts may be 
sown ; the seedlings will be planted permanently in spring 
for a late summer crop. Herbs ought to be gathered and 
hung up in an airy shed to dry. To prevent Cauliflowers 
" turning in " at the same time, it is usual partially to lift 
some of them when the heads show ; this disturbance of 
the roots has the effect of retarding them. 



258 



SEPTEMBER 

Waning and Waking Flowers 

AT the coming of September the flowers of high 
J^L. summer fade and fall, but there is recompense 
in the opening of others — Starwort or Michaelmas Daisy, 
Meadow Saffron, Torch Lily or Kniphofla, Chrysanthe- 
mum, Dahlia, Gladiolus, Monkshood, and autumn Rose. 
They scarcely arouse such enthusiasm as the first frail 
flowers of spring, or the fragrant blooms of dawning 
summer, but they are most welcome and prolong the 
charm of the garden until late autumn, when pressure 
of work provides the gardener's pleasure. 

Among the Hardy Flowers 

Autumn Roses. — Although many modern Roses do 
not compare in form and fragrance with some of the 
older ones, they compel admiration in autumn, when 
they are almost as gay as in high summer. So long as 
they continue to grow, so also do they continue to 
blossom ; as the gardener, by little attentions, is able 
to assist growth, he too controls, to a considerable 
degree, the length of their flowering season. Some of 
the present-day Roses are scarcely ever out of bloom, 
for no sooner has a shoot produced its first flowers than 
it proceeds to form fresh growths, which in their turn 
bear blossom, and the Rose beds continue gay. Yet 
there are two well-defined periods of flowering, the first 
in July, and the second early in September. The ad- 
vantage of cutting back in July the shoots that had 
flowered is now apparent, for the summer pruning has 

^59 



Round the Year in the Garden 

induced the development of fresh strong growths which 
bear really beautiful flowers, scarcely less fine than 
those of July. Most of the Teas and Hybrid Teas 
bloom freely in autumn, but few of the Hybrid Per- 
petuals do so. Exceptions are Louis Van Houtte, Fisher 
Holmes, Frau Karl Druscbki, Hugh Dickson, Captain 
Hayward and Senateur Vaisse. Even these are not to 
be compared with the H.T.'s and Teas for profusion of 
autumn bloom. A few especially valuable autumn 
Roses for the garden are Caroline Testout, Grace 
Darling, Pharisaer, Gustav Grtinerwald, General 
McArthur, La Tosca, Betty, Madame Antoine Mari, 
Prince de Bulgarie, Madame Leon Pain, Marquise de 
Sinety, A. R, Goodwin, Lady Roberts, Lady Ashtown, 
and Grliss an Teplitz, though there are innumerable 
others among the Teas, Pernetianas and Hybrid 
Teas. 

Note should be taken of those varieties that have 
suffered from mildew and black spot with a view to 
eradicating these diseases in winter. All diseased 
leaves that have fallen ought to be gathered and 
burnt. Mildew, which is usually most prevalent in 
autumn, may be checked by syringing the bushes with 
sulphide of potassium now. During winter it is advis- 
able to remove a little of the surface soil and to replace 
this with fresh material ; thus many disease spores are 
got rid of. 

Bush Roses often produce long flowerless growths 
in late summer, and especially is this true of the 
Hybrid Perpetuals. If they are not long enough and 
strong enough to peg down, they ought to be shortened 
to about 2 feet. This pruning has the effect of strength- 
ening the lower buds, and prevents the shoots being 
blown about. If they are not shortened or supported 
in some way, they cause the plant to sway during high 
winds, with the result that a hole is formed at its 
base, and water collects there. Should this have 

260 



September — Waning and Waking Flowers 

happened the shoots must be supported, and the holes 
filled up with fresh soil made firm. 

It is important before autumn to make sure that 
the long shoots of climbing Roses are secured to their 
supports ; if they are left loose the stems become torn 
in windy weather, and many buds are ruined. 

Autumn Pruning of Bush Roses. — Few amateurs 
pay much attention to the autumn pruning of bush 
Roses, though it is really essential to full success. 
Now is the time to cut out dead and weakly shoots, 
and to shorten long flowerless ones. It is best, in 
dealing with Hybrid Perpetuals, to cut out all except 
four or five of the best stems, and to shorten these 
partially if they are more than 2 feet long. This 
practice enables the lower part of the shoots to become 
properly matured, and the results the following season 
will fully justify the practice. It is, in fact, wise to 
cut out now, from all except tender Roses, such shoots 
as would be removed at the spring pruning. The re- 
maining shoots will then be fully exposed to air and 
light. A bush crowded with small weak growths 
cannot be expected to yield a good harvest of bloom. 

Violets in Winter. — It is quite easy to have Violets 
during winter if one lives in the country, but it is 
so difficult in urban and suburban gardens that the 
attempt is scarcely worth while. Owing to the absence 
of sunshine, and the impure atmosphere, the flower buds, 
even if they appear, often fail to open satisfactorily. In 
mild weather during winter Violets may be gathered out 
of doors in sheltered gardens, but the finest are obtained 
by means of the protection of a frame. A hotbed com- 
posed of half leaves and half manure, or of leaves alone, is 
made in the frame ; it should be about 2 feet deep when 
well trodden down. Upon the hotbed is placed 9 or 10 
inches depth of soil, consisting of loam and leafmould, and 
in this the Violets raised last April, from layers or by 
division of the old plants, are firmly placed. As the bed 

261 



Round the Year in the Garden 

of leaves and soil will shrink to some extent, the plants 
ought almost to touch the glass at first. The frame need 
not be heated by means of hot-water pipes, though these 
are certainly advantageous, for with their help the atmo- 
sphere in the frame can be kept dry in dull, wet weather. 
The secrets of success are to keep the Violets perfectly 
cool, admitting air whenever the weather conditions 
render this advisable, and to give water only when the 
soil is fairly dry. In the absence of these precautions the 
leaves and flowers will " damp off " and the Violets will 
be a failure. Dead and decaying leaves should be picked 
off. A troublesome fungoid disease known as Viola rust 
sometimes attacks the plants, and its presence may be 
recognised by patches of orange-coloured rust on the 
foliage. Diseased leaves ought to be removed and the 
plants syringed with sulphide of potassium, ^ oz. in 
1 gallon of water. It is possible to have Violets in early 
spring without going to the trouble of preparing a hotbed, 
though this is essential in most gardens to enable one to 
obtain winter Violets. If a frame is placed over the 
Violet bed out of doors, the plants will bloom earlier and 
the flowers will be finer. Some of the best Violets for 
winter cultivation in a frame are Marie Louise, double 
mauve-blue, Comte de Brazza, double white, and Lady 
Hume Campbell, double lavender-blue. 

Making a Reck Garden. — In forming a rock garden 
it is essential to provide proper drainage unless the soil 
is so sandy or gravelly that it remains comparatively 
dry in winter. The site should be dug out to the depth 
of 12 inches and filled with broken bricks or such other 
material as will serve the same purpose. It is too much 
to ask that some cartloads of special soil mixture shall 
be made up, so the staple soil must be rendered suitable. 
If it is stiff and holds the water in winter it should 
be made lighter by the free admixture of grit, small 
pieces of sandstone or brick, lime rubble, and sand. As 
a further aid, prepared compost may be used immediately 

262 



September — Waning and Waking Flowers 

around the plants when they are put in; this should 
consist of half loam and half leaf soil, with plenty of 
sand and grit. One can scarcely give explicit directions 
as to the arrangement of the rocks; it is not possible 
to advise the placing of one here and another there ; 
their disposition must be left to the discernment and 
taste of the owner. But one may show what ought 
to be avoided. The stones should not be set up on 
end, they should not overhang each other, be wholly 
out of the soil or only slightly embedded, or set so 
that the rain and other moisture will fall away from 
the garden. The greater part of each stone ought to 
be covered with soil. The stones must be in position 
before the bulk of the soil ; it is hopeless to attempt 
to fix them firmly by pressing them into the ground. 
When one rock is placed above another it should be 
set so far back that the edge does not overhang the 
rock beneath, and all should slope towards the bed of 
soil. There must be no empty spaces between the 
stones — every nook and cranny must be filled with 
soil made firm. 

Transplanting Evergreens. — Evergreen trees and 
shrubs are more difiicult to transplant successfully than 
deciduous or leaf -losing sorts ; it is wise therefore to treat 
them with greater consideration. While it is possible to 
plant such as Rhododendron, Laurel, Aucuba, and other 
common evergreens with some success in mild weather 
during autumn and winter, if the work is undertaken 
during the latter half of September the risk of loss is 
negligible. With the choice evergreens, as, for example. 
Yew, Holly and Conifers generally, such care is of even 
greater importance. In remodelling a garden the dis- 
position of evergreen trees and shrubs is a matter of 
great moment. Theirs is an influence that is exercised 
throughout the whole year ; in winter the dense and often 
sombre foliage is in marked contrast to the frail outlines 
of the summer-leafing trees, and errors in arrangement 

263 



Round the Year in the Garden 

are then glaringly conspicuous. They are scarcely less so 
to the sensitive eye in high summer, for at that season 
the pleasvire of a garden is found largely in contrasts and 
in harmonies of colour, which it is possible to create with 
trees and shrubs, as well as with plants and flowers. 
Whether one disposes evergreens with due regard to 
their proper place in the garden, or arranges them primarily 
for their value as screen trees, healthy specimens are 
alone of any use, and these are most likely to result from 
planting in September or early April. It is unwise to 
transplant, or to form a new plantation of large trees of 
choice evergreens, especially of Conifers ; even if the 
greatest care is taken they are likely to deteriorate, and 
there are few shrubs less attractive than a shabby ever- 
green. Plants 2, 3 or 4 feet high are most suitable, and 
usually give little trouble if planted in well-prepared 
ground at the proper time. They should be thoroughly 
watered the day before planting and immediately after- 
wards. If the weather is dry, moistening the leaves daily 
with a syringe or hose, and giving occasional applications 
of water to the soil, will prove helpful. Should cold winds 
prevail, some protection by means of a rough screen ought 
to be given for a few weeks. 

Lawn from Seed. — Although lawn grass seed is more 
commonly sown in late March and early April than in 
September, probably becaiise most amateurs commence 
their gardening in spring rather than in autumn, 
I am convinced that September is the better month for 
this work. Seed sown in spring may germinate well, but 
the young grass often has comparatively Tvarm and dry 
weather to contend with, and is checked when it ought to 
be making rapid progress. If this happens, and watering 
by means of the hose early in the season is not altogether 
beneficial, there is little prospect of a satisfactory sward 
the same year. It does not follow that spring sown seed 
will not prove successful, but I believe there is less risk 
of failure from a sowing in early September. If the days 

264 



September — Waning and Waking Flowers 

are hot then, the nights are cool and dewy, and the 
seedling grass makes excellent progress, if less rapid than 
in spring. There is little danger of its being damaged by 
frost, if my experience is to be relied upon. On one 
occasion I was obliged to delay sowing down a lawn until 
the first week in November, and within three weeks of sow- 
ing there were several cold nights, on which 10° and 12° 
of frost were registered. I fully expected to be obliged to 
sow again in March or April, but December was mild and 
wet, the grass came up splendidly, and I had a better lawn 
the following year than I could have hoped for from a 
sowing in spring. 

Renovating the Lawn. — As full instructions are given 
in the notes dealing with work in April, concerning the 
best method of sowing grass seed, there is no need to 
describe it now, but it may be worth while to give a little 
advice upon the renovation of a patchy lawn, a task that 
is no doubt undertaken more frequently than that of 
sowing a fi-esh one. I am convinced that it may be 
done more profitably now than in spring. It is necessary 
first to dig up the bare patches with fork or spade, to 
make the soil loose, and so form a good "seed bed." 
Nothing is more inimical to satisfactory germination than 
hard ground. If a thin scattering of wood ashes is spread 
over the lawn and raked in, a satisfactory start will have 
been made. A covering of sifted soil, an inch or more in 
thickness, is then scattered over the lawn and trodden 
down. Then follows the rake to make a level surface, and 
the seed is sown thickly, in both directions, from north to 
south, and from east to west, to ensure a full and even 
distribution. The seed is raked into the soil, which is then 
well rolled. Protection from birds is essential. The use 
of a preparation called Horticol, to be obtained from seeds- 
men, is said to have the effect of keeping away birds ; a 
satisfactory plan when the area of ground is small is to 
stretch black thread over the surface by attaching it to 
small sticks. 

* 265 



Round the Year in the Garden 

Planting Bulbs. — If the early bulbs referred to last 
month have not yet been planted they should be put in 
the ground without delay ; otherwise the chances of 
their blossoming well in early spring are remote. Early 
planting is particularly essential with Snowdrop, Crocus, 
Winter Aconite, Anemones, bulbous Iris, Triteleia, or Star 
Flower of Spring, and others, to which fuller reference was 
made last month. Most amateurs are inclined to put bulbs 
too near the surface ; a good average covering of soil for 
the smaller kinds is a depth of 2 inches. 

In the Greenhouse 

Pentstemon, Calceolaria and Viola Cuttings ought 
to be taken during this month to provide plants for next 
year's display. If only a few are required it is best to 
insert them in shallow boxes of sandy soil placed in a 
frame ; when a large number is wanted a shallow bed of 
soil is made up in the frame, and the cuttings are dibbled 
in, some 2 inches apart. The soil is surfaced with sand 
before the cuttings are inserted, then, as the holes are 
made, sand falls in, and forms a base upon which the 
cuttings rest. The chief point of importance is to make 
the cuttings firm at the base, which is done by pressing 
the soil there with the dibber. The frame is kept closed 
for two or three weeks to facilitate the production of 
roots, but a little air must be admitted for half an hour 
or so each morning to get rid of the moisture that accumu- 
lates. If this precaution is not taken the cuttings are 
liable to "damp off." When rooted they must be given 
as much fresh air as the weather will allow. On fine, 
mild days the frame light ought to be removed altogether ; 
when the weather is wet and mild it should be raised by 
means of a piece of wood. Unless the plants are kept 
perfectly cool, they will not remain sturdy. During 
severe frost it is advisable to cover the frame with a mat. 

Such is the orthodox treatment for these popular 

266 



September — Waning and Waking Flowers 

plants, but it does not follow, as I have found, that less 
strict methods will prove unsuccessful. The cuttings of 
Viola and Pentstemon will form roots if placed in pots or 
boxes of sandy soil in an open frame, though they take 
rather longer to do so. Both are perfectly hardy plants, 
at least in southern districts. In my garden, which is in 
Middlesex, I treat Pentstemons as hardy perennials, and 
they pass through the winter safely, although the soil is 
heavy and gets very wet. The shrubby Calceolaria, with 
which we are now concerned, is almost hardy, and a few 
degrees of frost will not harm the plants if they are com- 
paratively dry in a frame. Watering must be practised 
with care during winter ; the soil ought not to be moistened 
until it is dry. Water may not be needed for weeks 
together. 

All greenhouse plants that have been out of doors 
or in a cold frame during summer ought to be brought 
under glass during the latter part of the month ; such, 
for example, as Chrysanthemum, Zonal Pelargonium, 
Perpetual Carnation, and others. The greenhouse should 
be thorovighly cleansed in readiness for them. 

In the Fruit and Kitchen Garden 

One of the chief tasks of this month is that of lifting 
Potatoes as soon as the haulm has died down. If they are 
left in the ground, and wet weather sets in, they may 
start growing. If no shed is available in which to store 
them a " clamp " out of doors answers well. A shallow 
trench which will act as a drain is dug round the selected 
site ; a ridge-shaped or conical heap of tubers is made and 
covered with a layer of straw, this being covered with soil 
made firm with the spade. A few wisps of straw are 
pulled through the soil for purposes of ventilation. 

Cabbages for spring, which were raised from a sowing 
late in July or early August, should be planted now, the 
plants being put 12 inches apart in rows about 15 inches 

267 



Round the Year in the Garden 

from each other. The main crop of Celery is now ready 
for the first earthing. The leaves are first tied together ; 
a little soot is scattered on the soil. As the soil is placed 
round the plants care should be taken to prevent its falling 
among the leaves. Cauliflowers sown last month to produce 
an early supply next year ought to be planted on a warm 
and sheltered border ; a few might well be placed in a bed 
of soil in a frame. Those on the border must be protected 
by means of handlights or cloches in severe weather. 
Winter crops of Turnip, Spinach and Parsley need to be 
thinned. To obtain a winter supply of Parsley it is advis- 
able to protect part of the bed by means of a frame on the 
approach of cold weather. 

September is the month in which a Strawberry bed 
should be planted. The ground having been deeply dug 
and manured, the layers which were put down in July 
are now taken up and used to form the new bed. 
An excellent method of planting is to put the Straw- 
berries 12 inches apart in rows 2 feet from each other. 
After one crop of fruit has been obtained, alternate 
plants are destroyed, thus leaving the remainder at 2 
feet apart. 

Early Apples and Pears ought now to be gathered. 
Some of the latter, such, for example, as Jargonelle and 
Williams' Bon Chretien, must be used within a few 
days, for they cannot be kept long in a sound condition. 
Under glass all ripening fruits need an abundance of 
air ; except in cold weather the ventilators should remain 
open night and day. 



268 



INDEX 



Abutilon, the, 145 

Aconites, Winter, 130 

Algerian Iris, 12, 113 

Alkanet, blue, 135 

Allium, 5; Moly, 5; Neapolitanum, 5 

Alterations in tlie garden, 20 

Amelanchier Canadensis, 48 

Amorphophallus Rivieri, 36 

Anchusa, 135 

Anemone, Japanese, 135; eylvestris, 

140 
Annuals for the greenhouse, 143, 

171; half-hardy, 141, 199; hardy, 

116, 160 
Antholyza paniculata, 5 
Antirrhinum aearinum, 121 
Apples, Codlin moth, 86; gathering, 

42; planting, 74; self-fertile and 

self-sterile, 76; storing, 43; 

"sweating," 43; twelve cooking, 

80; twelve dessert, 79; used for 

cross - pollination, 77; trees, 

dwarf, 74 
Arches, renovating, 28 
Artichoke, Globe, 89; Jerusalem, 45; 

148 
Arum Dracunculus, 6; Italicum, 6; 

Lily, 6, 217; Lilies, yellow, 136; 

maculatum, 6 
Asters, 141 
Aubergine, 184 
Auricula, the, 201 
Australian Silky Oak, 120 
Autumn, leaves, 47; trees and shrubs 

for, 48; work for summer flowers, 

47 
Azaleas, 48, 215 



B 

Basic slag, 50, 69. 71 
Beans, Broad, 129; early, 89; French, 
129 



Beetroot, 45 

Begonias, tuberous, 24, 33, 175; 
winter-flowering, 72, 172 

Bellflower, Chimney, 177 

Berberis, Aquifolium, 48; steno- 
phylla, 195; Thunbergii, 48; vul- 
garis, 71 

Berried shrubs, 70 

Big Bud, 84 

Black Currant Mite, 84, 202 

Bocconia cordata, 135 

Border Carnations, 24, 138, 237; 
planting, 159 

, mixed flower, the, 58 

Broad Beans, early, 89, 129 

Brooms, the, 208 

Buddleia variabilis, 134 

Bulbs for spring planting, 164 ; in 
fibre, 37; in hardy flower border, 
59; in pots, 34; in water, 38; 
planting, 4; potting, 34; strange 
and familiar, 2 

Burning Bush, 135 

decaying leaves, 46 



Cabbage, Spring, 183 

Calceolaria in a frame, 102, 216 

Calochortus, 7 

Camassia, blue, Cusickii, esculenta, 
Leichtlini, 8 

Campanula pyramidalis, 177 

Canker in fruit trees. 84 

Canna, 24, 123, 137 

Cape Hyacinth, 24, 164 

Cardoon, earthing up, 45 

Carnations, border, 24, 138 ; plant- 
ing, 159 

, perpetual flowering, 101, 126, 173 

Carrot, 45, 186 

Castor Oil Plant, 123 

Cauliflower, 129 



269 



Index 



Geanothus, 210; Gloire de Versailles, 

134 
Celery, 183, 186; earthing up, 45 
Cherries, 82; planting, 82; self-fertile 
and self-sterile, 78; varieties of, 
82 
Chicory, blanching, 45; forcing, 128 
Chimney Bellflower, 177 
Chimonanthus fragrans, 93, 134; 

grandiflorus, 93 
Chinese Primulas, star-flowered, 101 
Ohoisya ternata, 209 
Christmas Eoses, 114 
Chrysanthemums, 101, 137, 176; early- 
flowering. 169 
Cineraria in a frame, 102, 215 
Clematis, 22; indivisa lobata, 146 
Jackmani, 61, 131; montana, 191 
pruning, 99, 130; Vitalba, 47 
viticella, 131 
Climbers for a north wall, 169 
Climbing plants in the greenhouse, 

145; Roses, 54 
Clover on lawns, 69 
Cockspur Thorn, 48 
Codlin Moth, 36, 202 
Coleus, the, 73; blue-flowered, 176; 

ornamental-leaved, 121 
Colour schemes for spring beds, 29 
Coreopsis grandiflora, 138 
Cornus alba, 98; sibirica, 99 
Cotonea,ster frigida, Simonsi, 70 
Crabs, 70 
Crataegus, 71 
Crocus, 245; Indian, 132 
Crops, protection of. 111; rotation of, 

110 
Cyclamen europasum, 47; Neapolitan, 

the, 47; Persian, 30 
Cydonia japonica, 94 
Cypress, deciduous, the, 48 
Cucumber, 182; early, 129 
Cupressus, 194, 195 
Currant, Black, 84; flowering, 134; 
increasing, 44; Red, 83, 84; White, 
83, 84 



Daffodil, Angel's Tears, Cyclamen- 
flowered, rush-leaved, 16 

Daffodils, 15, 59; best for naturalis- 
ing, 18; Hoop Petticoat, 15; how 



to grow, 17; IcBBer, 15; planting, 

18; Trumpet, 16 
Dahlia roots, storing. 24 
Dahlias, 136, 173; from seed, 122 
Daisy, Mexican, 121 
Daphne Mezereum, 93, 134 
Dead leaves, burning, 46 
Delphinium, 61, 138 
Dianthus, 139 
Dictamnus Fraxinella, 135 
Digging, 25 
Disbudding, 197 
Dogwoods, 98 
Dragon Flowers, 6 



B 

Egg plant, 184 

Eremurus, 9 

Erica carnea, Mediterranea hybrida, 

98 
Erigeron mucronatus, 121 
Evening Primrose, 139 
Evergreens, 195 
Expense of gardens, the, 19 



Fairy Rings on lawn. 70 

Fences, climbers for, 22 

Fertiliser, quick acting, 212 

Fibre, growing bulbs in, 37 

Firethorn, the, 70 

Flag Iris, the, 11; bearded, 12; 

beardless, 12 
Flame Flower, 193 
Flax, 161 
Flower border, blue, 63; mixed, 58; 

of one colour, 62; pink; 64; re- 



arranging, 116; shrubs in 

60; white, 63 

roots, lifting and storing. 

Flowering shrubs of spring, 190 
Flowers for odd corners, 6 
Forsythia, 134 
Frame, plants in a, 102 
Freesias, 232; from seed, 124 
French Beans, 129 
Frost, work during, 94 
Frozen plants, treatment of, 95 



the, 



23 



270 



Index 



Fruit garden, the, in April, 202; in 
December, 105; in February, 147; 
in January, 126; in June, 234; in 
July, 245; in March, 178; in May, 
218; in November, 73; in October, 
42; in September, 267 

gathering and storing, 42 

trees, canker in, 84; cleansing, 

105; cordon, 75; grafting, 179; 
grease - banding, 44; newly 
planted, pruning, 109; planting, 
78, 178; pruning, 105; root-prun- 
85; under glass, 86, 127, 147, 203; 
cleansing, 88 

Fruiting shrubs, 70 

Fruits, self-fertile, self-sterile, 76 

Fuchsias, 145 



Garrya elliptica, 94 

Gathering fruit, 42 

Gaultheria procumbens, Shallon, 71 

Geraniums for winter, 174; Zonal, 
101, 137 

Ginkgo biloba, 48 

Gladioli, planting, 167; roots, storing, 
23 

Gloxinias, 175 

Golden Bell Trees, 134 

Gooseberries, 83; increasing, 44; 
varieties of, 84 

Gooseberry sawfly, 202 

Grease-banding fruit trees, 44 

Greenhouse, annuals for the, 143; 
climbing plants in the, 145; 
cleansing the, 39; cold, plants 
for, 33; empty, cleansing an, 88; 
the, in April, 200; in August, 257; 
in December, 100; in February, 
136; in January, 118; in March, 
171; in May, 215; in November, 
72; in October, 29; in September, 
266; plants for, 39; Primulas for, 
125; small, heating a, 39; un- 
heated, the, 32 

Grevillea robusta, 120 



H 

Half-hardy annuals, 141 
Hamamelis, 134; arborea, mollis, 94; 
virginica, 47 



Hardy annuals, 116, 160; flower 

border, 58 
flowers from seed, 121 ; amons 

the, in April, 200; in August, 252; 

in December, 90; in February, 

130; in January, 113; in July, 

246; in June, 231; in March, 150; 

in May, 215; in November, 47; 

in October, 2; in September, 266 
Heather, 98 

Heating a small greenhouse, 39 
Hedges, 193, 194 
Hippophae rhamnoides, 71 
Hollyhocks, 120 
Honeysuckles, winter-blooming, 93, 

134 
Horseradish, 128 
Hotbed, making a, 129, 170 
Hyacinths, 10 
Hyacinthus amethystinus, 11; eandi- 

cans, 24, 164 
Hydrangea, 99, 134, 253 
Hypericum calycinum, 134, 169 



Indian Corn, 235; Oro«Ui, 132; Shot, 

24, 123 
Insect Pests, 212, 213 
Iris, Algerian, 12, 113; Flag, 11; Mis- 

souriensis, Monnieri, orientalis, 

Siberian, 12; stylosa, 12, 113; un- 

guicularis, 12 
Irises, Dutch. 11; English, 11. 166; 

Flag, bearded, 12; German, 11; 

Japanese, 13; Spanish, 11, 166 
Iron Tree, the, 48 
Ivy, clipping, 159 
Ixias, 166 



Japanese Anemone, 135; Irises, 13; 

Quince, 94 
Jasminum nudiflorum, 93, 133; 

primulinum, 93 
Jerusalem Artichoke, 45, 148 
Jessamine, winter, 93, 99, 133 
Judas Tree, 209 
Juneberry, 48 



27: 



Index 



King's Spear, 9 

Kitchen garden, the, in April, 204; 
in August, 257; in December, 109; 
in February, 148; in January, 
128; in July, 251; in Jupe, 235; 
in March, 182; in May, 220; in 
November, 89; in October, 45; in 
September, 267 

Kochia scoparia, 142, 171 



Laburnum, 208; and Wistaria, 23 

Larkspur, annual, 161; perennial, 138 

Lawn, care of the. 67 ; enriching the, 
157; fertilisers for. 69; moss on, 
69; renovating the, 156; sand, 69; 
sowing, 264; weeds on, 68; weedy, 
158; worms on, 67 

Lawns, 116; clover on, 69; fairy 
rings, on, 70 

Leaf-mining Maggot, 201 

Leaves, autumn, 47 

Lenten Roses, 114 

Lettuce, 205 

Lifting flower roots, 23 

Lilac, the, 207 

Lilies, 164; Arum, yellow, 136; in 
pots, 36; Mariposa", 6. 7; to plant 
in October, 13 

Lilium auratum, 13; Batemanniae, 
bulbiferum, Canadense. chalce- 
donicum, croceum, Hansoni, Hen- 
ryi, 14; longiflorum, 36; Mar- 
tagon, pardalinum, pyrenaicum, 
specioBum, Testaceum, Thunber- 
gianum, tigrinum, umbellatum, 
14 

Liliums, 14, 164, 241 

Lily, Arum, 6; Canadian, 14; 
Madonna, 13; Nankeen, Orange, 
Panther. 14; Sword, South 
African, 5; Tiger, 13; Trumpet, 
white, 13, 36; Turk's Cap, 14; of 
the Valley, 8, 41 

Linum grandiflorum rubrum, 161 

Lobelia, perennial, 24 

Loganberry, the, 250 

Lonicera f ragrantissima, 93, 134 ; 
Standiehi, 93, 134 

Lupin, 61, 138 



M 

Madonna Lily, 13 

Magnolia stellata, 134 

Mahonia, 48 

Maidenhair ferns, 137 

Maidenhair Tree, the, 48 

Manures for Eoses, 50 

Mariposa Lilies, 6, 7 

Marrow, Vegetable, 182 

Melon, 182, 220 

Mexican Daisy, 121 

Mezereon, 93 

Mignonette, 257 

Mildew, 214 

Mint. 128 

Mistletoe, 113 

Mixed border, the, 58, 162 

Mock Orange, 209 

Monarch of the East, 36 

Montbretia roots, storing, 24 

Montbretias, 166 

Moonlight Bramble, 98 

Moss on the lawn, 69 

Mountain Ash, the, 70; Clematis, 191 

MuBhrooms, 46, 221 



N 



Narcissi, Chalice-cupped, 16; Poet's, 
17; star, 16 

Narcissus, 15; Bulbocodium, cycla- 
mineus, minimus, moschatus, 
Johnstoni, Queen of Spain, junci- 
folius, triandrus albus, 16 

Nectarine, planting, 81; varieties of, 
82 

Nerine, the, 29 

Nerium Oleander, 146 

Nicotiana afflnis, 141 

North wall, climbers for, 169 

November, flowers in, 47 



Oak, Australian Silky, 120 
Odd corners, flowers for, 6 
Oenothera Missouriensis, 139 
Old-world Roses, 54 
Oleander, the, 146 



272 



Index 



Onions for exhibition, 129; orna- 
mental, 5; sowing, 186; storing. 
45 

Ornamental Onions, 5 



Pansies, Tufted, 159 

Papaver rupifragum, 121 

Parrotia persica, 48 

Parsnip, 45, 148 

Path, paved, making a, 118 

Peach trees, disbudding, 181; plant- 
ing, 81; under glass, 147; varie- 
ties of, 82 

Pear trees, dwarf, 74; planting, 74; 
codlin moth, 86; early varieties 
of, 42; gathering, 42; self-fertile 
and self-sterile, 77; storing, 44; 
used for cross-pollination, 77; 
varieties of, 80 

Peas, early, 46; sowing, 185 

Pegging down Eoses, 153 

Pentstemons, 160 

Perennials, 117 

Pergolas, renovating, 28 

Pernettya, the, 71 

Persian Cyclamen, 30 

Petunias from seed, 122 

Phlox Drummondi, 142 

Pinks, 139, 224 

Plans, making, 90 

Planting, completion of, 163 

Plants for rooms, 136; in a frame, 
102 

Plumbago Capensis, 146 

Plume Poppy, 135 

Plum, planting, 81; self-fertile and 
self-sterile, 77; varieties of, 81 

Polygonum baldschuanicum, 22 

Poppies, 161 

Potatoes, 148; early, 183; planting, 
185 

Pots, bulbs in, 34; Lilies in, 36; 
Boees in, 33 

Potting bulbs, 34 

Primrose, Japanese, the, 115 

Primula Beesiana, 115; BuUeyana, 
116; capitata, 139; farinosa, 115; 
floribunda, 101, 125; Forbesii, 139; 
Forresti, 115; frondosa, 115, 139; 
japonica, 115; Kewensis, 33, 101, 
12&; littoniana, 115; malacoides. 



33, 125; pulverulenta, 115; rosea, 
115; verticillata, 125 

Primulas for the greenhouse, 125; 
from seed, 139; hardy, 115; star- 
flowered Chinese, 101, 215 

Propagation by root cuttings, 135 

Protecting crops. 111 

Pruning, an explanation of, 152; 
Clematis, 130; climbing roses, 
154; early-flowering shrubs, 133; 
fruit trees, 105; newly planted 
fruit trees, 109; Eoses, 150; Eoses 
in the greenhouse, 142; shrubs, 
99; vines, 103 

Pyracantha, 70 

Pyrus Aucuparia, prunifolia, Eingo. 
70 



Quamash, 8 
Quince, Japanese, 94 



Radishes, 129 

Raspberries, autumn-fruiting, prun- 
ing, 147 

Repotting room plants, 177 

Rhubarb, 148; forcing, 45, 89, 128 

Ehus cotinoides, 48 

Ricinus, 123 

Bock garden in March, 168; plants 
for, 117, 191, 229; from seed, 139; 
making a, 262; protecting, 28 

Rock Eose, 230 

Rocksprays, the, 70 

Boom plants, 136; repotting, 177 

Boot cuttings, 135 

crops, storing, 45 

Boot-pruning fruit trees, 85 

Bose bed, making a, 49; bushes, 
cleansing, 91; cuttings, 26; pests, 
197 

Roses, Bourbon, 57; Cabbage, 56; 
Christmas, 114; climbing, 54; 
climbing, for fences, 22; climb- 
ing, perpetual - flowering, 54; 
climbing, pruning, 154; Damask, 
56; for walls, 155; from seed. 103; 
garden, good varieties of, 61; 
Hybrid China, 57; Hybrid Tea, 



273 



Index 



climbing 55; in pots, 33, 34; in 
the greenhouse, pruning, 142; 
increasing, 26 ; Lenten, 114 ; 
manures for, 50; Moss, 56; multi- 
flora, 55; needing special care, 
153; newly planted, pruning, 151 
old-world, 54; pegging down, 153 
planting, 48; planting in spring 
155; protecting, 92; Provence, 56 
pruning, 150; Tea, climbing, 55 
transplanting, 49; two dozen for 
garden display, 53; Wichuraiana, 
65 

Rotation of crops, 110 

Eubus biflorus, 98 



Sage, scarlet, 175 

Salix vitellina, 98 

Salvia splendens, 175 

Saxifraga, 192 

Scabiosa caucasica, 138 

Sea Buckthorn, the, 71 

Seakale, 183; forcing, 45, 89, 128 

Seed, flowers to raise from, in the 
greenhouse, 120 ; of vegetables to 
60W in January, 129 ; old and 
new 120; sowing, 119; to order, 
116; to sow in a 'greenhouse in 
January, 120 

Shallots, 148 

Shrub cuttings, 26 

Shrubs, berried and fruiting, 70; 
early-flowering, pruning, 133; 
flowering, 23 ; flowering, of spring, 
190; for autumn, 48; increasing, 
27; in the flower border, 60; 
pruning, 99; winter, 92 

Siberian Iris, 12 

Snow, effects of, 96 

Solanum capsicastrum, 122 

South African Sword Lily, 5 

Sowing seeds, 119 

Spanish Irises, 11 

Spinach, perpetual, 128 

Spiraeas, pruning, 135 

Spring beds, planting, 28; flowering 
plants, 211 

St. John's Wort, 134; pruning, 169 

Star Tulip, 7 

Stocks, 141; Brompton, 231 



Stocks for Apples and Pears, 74; for 

fruit trees, 74. 106 
Storing flower roots, 23; fruit, 42 
Strawberries in pots, 182; layering, 

248 
Summer Cypress, 142, 171; bedding, 

226; flowers, autumn work for, 47 
Sweet Peas, planting, 199; sowing, 

123; sowing out of doors, 132; 

varieties of, 124, 133 
Sword Lily, South African, 5 
Syringa, 207 



Tasodium distichum, 48 

Thorn, Cockspur, the, 71 

Tidying up, 90 

Tiger Lily, 13 

Tobacco, 141 

Tomatoes, early, 129 

Torenia, 171 

Transplanting Roses, 49 

Traveller's Joy, 47 

Trees for autumn. 48 

Trumpet Lily, white, 13, 36 

Turf, laying, 27 

Tulip, Star, 7 

Tulipa elegans, gesneriana lutea, 
Greigi, ixioides, kaufmanniana, 
macrospeila, Sprengeri, eylves- 
tris, vitellina, 67 

Tulips, Cottage, 66; Darwin, 66; May- 
flowering, 59, 65 

Tunica Saxifraga, 121 



Vallota purpurea, 247 

Vegetable Marrow, 182; seeds to sow 
in February, 149; to sow in Janu- 
ary, 129 

Vegetables, forcing, 128 

Verbenas from seed, 122 

Vine, pruning the, 103 

Vines under glass, 147; cleansing, 88 

Viola cornuta, 122 

Violas, 159 

Violet, increasing, 189 

Viscum album, 113 

Vittadinia triloba, 121 



274 



Index 



w 

Walks, garden, 197 

Wallflowers, 211 

Walls, Roses for, 155 

Water Lilies, 214 

Weed Killer, home-made, 193 

Weeds on the lawn, 63 

Willows. 98 

Winter Aconites, 130; Cherry, 122; 

Jessamine, 93, 133; shrubs, 92; 

Sweet, 93, 134 ; work, items of, 98 



Wireworm, 100 

Witch Hazel, 94, 134; American, the, 

47 
Wood ashes, 25 
Worms on the lawn, 67 



Zephyranthes Candida, 132 
Zonal Geraniums, 137 



275 



Printed by 

Cassell & Company, Limited, La Belle Sauvage, 

London, E.C. 

F 25.216 



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